I've put in another guage cluster into my KE30, and I have the problem of the fuel gauge needle being 1/4 lower than normal.

With a full tank of petrol, the gauge reads 3/4, when it used to be up to the "F".

I think the gauge cluster might of been from a KE35.

 

Does anyone know how to adjust the fuel gauge?

I can't see any adjustment screw at the the back of the gauge.

 

 

 

Bruce

Take your old fuel gauge out of your old cluster and put it in the new one that you just put in the car.

Edited July 2, 200620 yr by Raven

I took apart the gauge cluster, and looks pretty easy to swap over the fuel gauge. So yeah, I'll do that.

Its funny how they are slightly different

it was most proably the float that wasnt set up correctly with the new cluster

Actually, depending on the year of the car, there are 2 different types of fuel senders :dance:

 

don't ask me the names as I don't remember..... but thats what the toyota guys told me here.

The fuel gauge in our KE55 is stuffed something shocking, has read empty ever since we bought it (in the meantime it has gone through two 20L fills, but both from near empty), until I filled her up fully last week. Then it shot up to 3/4 full, but has since died to now reading fully empty after only doing 200km. Any ideas?

fuel sender unit or again float inside the tank not working properly

The fuel gauge in our KE55 is stuffed something shocking, has read empty ever since we bought it (in the meantime it has gone through two 20L fills, but both from near empty), until I filled her up fully last week. Then it shot up to 3/4 full, but has since died to now reading fully empty after only doing 200km. Any ideas?

 

exactly the same as mine, also the temp gauge only works when ive got a full tank. wtf :dance:

exactly the same as mine, also the temp gauge only works when ive got a full tank. wtf :dance:

Our temp gauge appears to work fine, it just usually sits about 3mm above the cold line most of the time, only time it's gone even close to a third of the way up was during stop-start city traffic the other day (then again, I haven't driven it in summer yet). I'm not surprised that it runs so cool though, considering the huge-ass cooling fan and tiny engine in big engine bay. Plus the fact that there is so little power in the first place for a lot to be being wasted as heat

My temp gauge use to read just a little bit after the cold line (~3mm), when warmed up.

But then I put in a new thermostat, and now it reads around 1/3, or around there. I though I did something wrong

 

I looked in the car user manual and it said that normal is around half way.

 

I've just put in another gauge and its got a line just over 1/3 of the way on the temp gauge. When it hits that line it goes down to about 1/4. I guess thats when the thermostat starts opening up.

how much does it cost to get something like this fixed (float or sender), or is it an easy DIY job? macca was telling me its a 2 man all day job

I've just put my old fuel gauge into the new one.

But the fuel gauge almost read full. I was driving down the road for 5 minutes, and I looked at the temp gauge, and it was right up at H. For a moment I though I cooked the engine :hmm: . But it would of had to be the gauges. So I kept on driving.

 

The next day I compared the two gauges, looking at the capacitors, diodes, and circuits lines. It appeared to look the same. I then showed it to my girlfriend, and she found that there was a difference. There was an extra pin on one of the connectors, and a slightly different circuit line.

 

So I just used the original ciruit board, and changed over the speedo, and temp gauge.

I wanted the new gauge because it had a clock, kilometer counter in the speedo, and a line half way on the temp gauge to mark when the thermostat opens.

 

While I was looking at the speedo, I was trying to get the kilometer counter going. It couldn't reset to zero. I spent a while trying to work out how it functions. I just sprayed a bit of CRC on the moving bits, and it works real good.

 

 

It all works now