KE16V Barn Find

[Banjo]

Glad You are into it !  Hope is addictive, & not too despressing.  I'd really be concentrating on the structural bits first, as they are the most important, after all. Shame to do all the surface & visual pieces, & then find later on, that there is a structural section, beyond repair, & that all the visual; non structural clean up, was in vain.

A simple rotisserie would be good, so it is easy on your back. No fun working upside down, when You get to the underfloor area.

Metal Rotisserie

Wooden Rotisserie

Cheers

Banjo  

Edited May 22, 2025 by Banjo

[mage0r]

Thanks Banjo, I have a few Rotisserie videos in my queue and I'll add those.

In this case I'm focusing on the bonnet for a few reasons.

1. They are in demand, so if my build goes nowhere they still have value.

2. The bonnet is in my garage but the rest of the car is 500km away.

The bonnet (and guard) are from Captain Kerolla, so their condition is not reflective of the rest of the vehicle.  I'm going to school on these parts, and I can get them up on the bench under my workshop heater.

John

[altezzaclub]

Get some Upol #2 weld-through primer in copper, we use it all the time on race car fabrication. Its a lot more expensive than the zinc, but they are rubbish to weld through, its just like welding galv pipe.

I'd use paint stripper to start with, get all the paint off as there will be little rust-worm trails under paint that look fine from the outside. We took the driver's-side top surfaces back like this, even if the paint looked OK for 99%, underneath were little rust trails heading off in all directions.  I figure it spent its life in a carport up against a wall on the passenger's side, so the drivers side was weathered.

 

[parrot]

This is mine more than a year after stripping all the paint off with stripper and a flap wheel where necessary. I then treated the whole area with KBS rust last. Any areas that showed any sign of colour where then treated again. 

The coating I’ll wash/ neutralise when I spray epoxy sealer hopefully soon

Edited May 23, 2025 by parrot

[Banjo]

Thanks Pete !

                       I must have been living under a rock; as I've never come across KBS Rust Blast previously.  Sounds like good stuff.  It's even available at Bunnings, apparently.

This is what Google says about it . . .

Quote

KBS RustBlast is a water-based rust remover and zinc phosphate pre-priming etch that is generally well-regarded for its effectiveness in removing rust and preparing metal surfaces for paint. Users often praise its ability to dissolve rust, metal oxides, and tarnishing from various metal surfaces. Additionally, RustBlast is noted for its gentle etching of metal surfaces and its ability to coat them with a zinc phosphate layer, which enhances paint adhesion and prevents flash rust, according to KBS Coatings. 

 

Here's a more detailed look at the key aspects of KBS RustBlast:

• Zinc Phosphate Layer:

  After application, RustBlast leaves a protective zinc phosphate layer on the metal, which helps prevent flash rust and promotes better paint adhesion, says KBS Coatings. 

   

• Pre-Priming Etch:

  RustBlast acts as a pre-priming etch, preparing the surface for painting by creating a suitable surface profile for optimal paint adhesion. 

   

• Non-Toxic, Non-Hazardous:

  RustBlast is described as a non-toxic, non-hazardous product, making it easier to use and safer than some other rust removers. 

   

• Ease of Use:

  RustBlast is generally considered simple to use and can be applied using various methods, including spraying, brushing, or using a scrub pad. 

   

• Effectiveness:

  RustBlast is designed to dissolve rust, corrosion, metal oxides, and tarnishing from various metal surfaces. 

   

Overall, KBS RustBlast is a popular choice for rust removal and surface preparation due to its effectiveness, ease of use, and the protective zinc phosphate layer it leaves behind. 

 

Additional points based on the search results:

• Three-Step System: RustBlast is part of a three-step system from KBS Coatings, which includes KBS Klean for degreasing and KBS RustSeal for rust encapsulation. 
   

• User Reviews: Many users have reported positive experiences with RustBlast, stating that it effectively removes rust from various surfaces, including gas tanks, chassis, and engine parts. 
   

• Application Tips: For best results, apply RustBlast to clean, dry surfaces and allow it to work for a designated time (30 minutes to 2 hours depending on rust level), keeping the surface wet with RustBlast and scrubbing intermittently. 
   

• Rinsing and Drying: After the RustBlast has worked its magic, rinse and dry the surface thoroughly, leaving the white zinc phosphate residue behind. 
   

• Topcoating: It is recommended to topcoat RustSeal with an opaque paint system to protect against cosmetic changes, according to KBS Coatings. 
   

• RustSeal: RustSeal is a coating designed to encapsulate and prevent rust, according to KBS Coatings. 
   

• KBS #1 Thinner: Use only KBS #1 Thinner with RustSeal for best results. 
   

• Recoat Times: Recoat times for RustSeal can vary depending on humidity. 
   

• RustBlast Powder: KBS also offers a RustBlast powder for rust removal. 

Thank You for that pointer.  I'll try it out very shortly, as my bonnet has a few sections that need treatment.

Cheers Banjo

[mage0r]

Thank you everyone.  

 

I couldn't find it on the Bunnings site, but I'll keep looking.  I've got Ranex Rustbuster and Evapo-Rust, but you can never have too many chemicals.

I've got some Upol #2 on order.

 

[parrot]

I got the 4 litre bottle on ebay.

I've previously bought it in small bottle from an automotive paint supply place but had a couple of ordinary experiences there so went online.

My bonnet had had a serious bird shit attack and the rust webs were all over it.  I'v rubbed those spots down to metal and treated with KBS and it has been like that for more than two years. When ready for paint i'll strip the whole thing

[Banjo]

Hi John,

               Sorry, I went & looked again, & You are right that Bunnings do not seem to stock it.  My error.

Quote

I couldn't find it on the Bunnings site, but I'll keep looking.

When I took a look again the one Bunnings market, looks very similar, in a yellow & read container, & is called Ranex RUSTBUSTER.

Edited May 25, 2025 by Banjo

[mage0r]

I have some of the Ranex Rustbuster, but my googling indicates it doesn't leave a zinc layer after it's done the rust conversion, so it's probably not suitable for leaving on for any length of time.

KBS ship straight from their website too, might be worth cutting out the eBay middleman.

They also have a Por-15 style primer/sealer I'm going to give a try.  

[mage0r]

Hi Everyone

It's been a while, life gets in the way and I got a bit disenfranchised by being a terrible welder.

With that in mind, I picked up my engine to restore over Christmas and have spent the last few months wrenching on it.

I had original expected it to be a 3K, but turns out I was wrong and it's another original K (SN K136926).  It was in pretty rough shape after several decades in the hayshed, and it looks like someone had done a rattle-can spray job on it.  All the paint was flaking off.

The heads water jacket had a fairly big corrosion problem, but so far that and the water pump are the only two parts that are completely unsalvageable.  Captain Kerolla helped me out with replacements, and he got the carbi restored.  The head has by far been the most expensive part of the whole process by a good margin!

I've stripped everything else down and run a lot of it through a degreaser-evaporust-brass wire process.  I've made a few mistakes, but hopefully nothing terminal.  My push rods and tappets may have slid out when I wasn't paying attention, so their order is going to be very much not right.

I've used a non-traditional combination of black and red KBS MotorCoater.  No real reason, other than I think it looks good.  I think I'll try and get some red silicone pipes for fuel and water.  I'm not sure what conditions the ones I have are in.

I also forgot to grab the starter motor and alternator, so those are very much unknowns as well.

I'm honestly not sure if this is going to start, but its looking a lot better than it did, so I'm going to count that as a win.

I've got a gallery of my progress here if anyone wants a look at all the progress.  And it's live so as I add photos it updates.  Added here are a essentially the before and almost-last.

I've tried to add before and after photos for each component, but I often forgot to grab photos while I was working.  One good example is the coolant temperature/return.  It was heavily pitted, so I coated it in JB-Weld and sanded it back down.

https://immich.mage0r.net:8443/s/corolla-restore

[altezzaclub]

What a difference!

" I got a bit disenfranchised by being a terrible welder. "  Josh, who does immaculate welding on the roll cages we build, used to say "I'm an average welder,but a very good grinder"..  Keep at it!

[Banjo]

Hi John,   That is simply amazing.  You are obviously one of those people with a lot of patience.  Many would look at that engine, in it's original state, & give up completely, before even getting started.  My query, is that a 1100cc  engine.  I had to go & ask AI to give me all the early models & capacities.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________

There were six major versions of the Toyota K series straight-4 engine produced between 1966 and 2007. These engines were notable for their 2-valve-per-cylinder pushrod (OHV) design and non-crossflow heads. 

 

Toyota K Series Model Specifications

 

Engine Model	Capacity (cc)	Capacity (L)	Production Years
K	1,077 cc	1.1 L	1966 – 1969
2K	993 cc	1.0 L	1969 – 1988
3K	1,166 cc	1.2 L	1969 – 1979
4K	1,290 cc	1.3 L	1977 – 1989
5K	1,486 cc	1.5 L	1983 – 1996
7K	1,781 cc	1.8 L	1983 – 2007

Key Performance Variants

 

While the six models listed above represent the base blocks, many sub-variants existed based on fuel delivery and emissions:

• K-B / 3K-B: High-performance versions equipped with twin carburetors.
• 3K-R: A rare, race-spec 1.3L version.
• 4K-E / 7K-E: Fuel-injected versions (indicated by the "E" suffix).
• 3K-C / 4K-C: Versions designed with specific emissions controls (often for California).
• 3K-U / 4K-U: Japanese-spec engines with emission control systems like "Toyota Total Clean-Catalyst".

The picture below is of the original 60 year olde 1077 cc K Series engine, (1966) in a cutaway format, in a Toyota museum in Japan.

What interests me in this picture, is what appears to be a coolant bypass valve, between the thermostat housing & the inlet of the water pump.  This could also be called a radiator bypass valve; so maybe was used to heat up the coolant quickly, from a cold start; in very cold climate countries ? 

______________________________________________________________________________________________________

The original 1077cc Toyota K series engine, introduced in 1966, was the foundation of one of Toyota's most successful engine families. It was a water-cooled, inline-four, pushrod (OHV) design produced at the Kamigo plant in Toyota City. 

 

Historical Significance

• The "100cc Advantage": Originally intended for the under-1000cc tax class, the displacement was increased late in development to 1077cc to outperform the rival Datsun 1000.
• Marketing Strategy: Toyota used the slogan "The extra 100 cc gives you the edge" to highlight its performance over competitors.
• Corolla Launch: This engine powered the first-generation Toyota Corolla (KE10) in October 1966, playing a pivotal role in mass motorization in Japan. 
   

Technical Specifications (Standard K)

• Configuration: Naturally aspirated straight-four, 2 valves per cylinder (8 total).
• Block & Head: Cast iron block with an aluminium alloy head.
• Bore x Stroke: 75 mm × 61 mm.
• Crankshaft: Supported by five main bearings to reduce vibration and support high-speed operation.
• Output:
  • Power: 60 PS (44 kW; 59 hp) at 6000 rpm.
  • Torque: 83 N⋅m (61 lb⋅ft) at 3800 rpm.
• Valvetrain: High-mounted camshaft with short pushrods for improved performance

 

Variants and Applications

• K-B Engine (1968–1969): A high-performance version equipped with twin carburettors, producing 73 PS (54 kW) at 6600 rpm.
• K-D Engine: A higher-output variant with an increased compression ratio.
• Key Vehicles:
  • Toyota Corolla (KE1x series): The primary application from 1966–1969.
  • Toyota Publica (KP3x series): The Publica SL received the more powerful K-B variant. 
    Wikipedia +3

The 1077cc unit was eventually replaced in late 1969 by the expanded 1.2-litre 3K engine (1166cc).

 

The History of Toyota Corollas

 

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited March 11 by Banjo

[mage0r]

2 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

What a difference!

" I got a bit disenfranchised by being a terrible welder. "  Josh, who does immaculate welding on the roll cages we build, used to say "I'm an average welder,but a very good grinder"..  Keep at it!

I tend to agree, but it's so thin I don't have a lot of room for grinding

My next door neighbour is repairing a 1989 Saab Turbo for the Mystery Box Rally and he's pretty good at the thin stuff.  I'm resisting the temptation to just ask him to do it.

[mage0r]

7 hours ago, Banjo said:

Hi John,   That is simply amazing.  You are obviously one of those people with a lot of patience.  Many would look at that engine, in it's original state, & give up completely, before even getting started.  My query, is that a 1100cc  engine.  I had to go & ask AI to give me all the early models & capacities.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

There were six major versions of the Toyota K series straight-4 engine produced between 1966 and 2007. These engines were notable for their 2-valve-per-cylinder pushrod (OHV) design and non-crossflow heads. 

 

Toyota K Series Model Specifications

 

Engine Model	Capacity (cc)	Capacity (L)	Production Years
K	1,077 cc	1.1 L	1966 – 1969
2K	993 cc	1.0 L	1969 – 1988
3K	1,166 cc	1.2 L	1969 – 1979
4K	1,290 cc	1.3 L	1977 – 1989
5K	1,486 cc	1.5 L	1983 – 1996
7K	1,781 cc	1.8 L	1983 – 2007

Key Performance Variants

 

While the six models listed above represent the base blocks, many sub-variants existed based on fuel delivery and emissions:

• K-B / 3K-B: High-performance versions equipped with twin carburetors.
• 3K-R: A rare, race-spec 1.3L version.
• 4K-E / 7K-E: Fuel-injected versions (indicated by the "E" suffix).
• 3K-C / 4K-C: Versions designed with specific emissions controls (often for California).
• 3K-U / 4K-U: Japanese-spec engines with emission control systems like "Toyota Total Clean-Catalyst".

The picture below is of the original 60 year olde 1077 cc K Series engine, (1966) in a cutaway format, in a Toyota museum in Japan.

What interests me in this picture, is what appears to be a coolant bypass valve, between the thermostat housing & the inlet of the water pump.  This could also be called a radiator bypass valve; so maybe was used to heat up the coolant quickly, from a cold start; in very cold climate countries ? 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

The original 1077cc Toyota K series engine, introduced in 1966, was the foundation of one of Toyota's most successful engine families. It was a water-cooled, inline-four, pushrod (OHV) design produced at the Kamigo plant in Toyota City. 

 

Historical Significance

• The "100cc Advantage": Originally intended for the under-1000cc tax class, the displacement was increased late in development to 1077cc to outperform the rival Datsun 1000.
• Marketing Strategy: Toyota used the slogan "The extra 100 cc gives you the edge" to highlight its performance over competitors.
• Corolla Launch: This engine powered the first-generation Toyota Corolla (KE10) in October 1966, playing a pivotal role in mass motorization in Japan. 
   

Technical Specifications (Standard K)

• Configuration: Naturally aspirated straight-four, 2 valves per cylinder (8 total).
• Block & Head: Cast iron block with an aluminium alloy head.
• Bore x Stroke: 75 mm × 61 mm.
• Crankshaft: Supported by five main bearings to reduce vibration and support high-speed operation.
• Output:
  • Power: 60 PS (44 kW; 59 hp) at 6000 rpm.
  • Torque: 83 N⋅m (61 lb⋅ft) at 3800 rpm.
• Valvetrain: High-mounted camshaft with short pushrods for improved performance

 

Variants and Applications

• K-B Engine (1968–1969): A high-performance version equipped with twin carburettors, producing 73 PS (54 kW) at 6600 rpm.
• K-D Engine: A higher-output variant with an increased compression ratio.
• Key Vehicles:
  • Toyota Corolla (KE1x series): The primary application from 1966–1969.
  • Toyota Publica (KP3x series): The Publica SL received the more powerful K-B variant. 
    Wikipedia +3

The 1077cc unit was eventually replaced in late 1969 by the expanded 1.2-litre 3K engine (1166cc).

 

The History of Toyota Corollas

 

Cheers Banjo

 

Good summary, in this case it's clearly one of the K 1077s.  I may have used my share of AI to get an understanding of the model too.  A lot of that information comes straight from the wikipedia entry though.

I only progressed with this because when I pulled it out, the drive shaft spun freely and when I popped the valve cover off all the parts still had a healthy layer of oil.  There's very little play in the timing chain as well.

Honestly, the restore process has been a bit of good mental break for me, although the stress of finding which of the bolts go where has been higher than expected.  Always important to remember that it doesn't take much WD-40 to wipe out your carefully placed permanent marker labels.

I had spotted that photo before (it's the wikipedia creative commons one for this engine variant) but I hadn't noticed the radiator return bypass.  My motor obviously bypassed that bypass with the use of an ugly bit of pipe.  I found the bypass I have in a box of lose parts (including 2 horns!), and it doesn't look salvageable.  ChatGPT had decided that it must be a fuel pump.....

 

[parrot]

The "coolant bypass valve" is the heater tap.  I'm spending a lot of time trying to find one that works, though Peter Robinson put me onto an aftermarket option that fits elsewhere.  I still want an original one though.