Celica RA40 Rally Car Advice + WTB Parts

[jonahcorolla]

Hi guys.

I have recently acquired a RA40 and am wishing to convert it to an amateur rally car.

 

It's no show car, so don't get upset about it's new life as a bush basher.

This will be my first foray into motorsport, so any advice is appreciated. I have read Altezzaclub's fantastic thread on How Not To Build A Rally Car, which has been an excellent read.

First order of business will be to strip the interior, address sump plug, rear main and diff pinion leak. Additionally, I went to bleed the brakes the other day and nothing came out of the breathers on the rear drums! I suspect either a dodgy master cylinder, or a busted diff line on the drive home (rubber line that connects the body hardline to the diff, it pissed fluid everywhere initially and has magically stopped). The pedal went to the floor as I was approaching a set of lights, and I had to pump them back up. I'm not loosing brake fluid anymore however, which is strange.

Here is an overview and a few questions I have pertaining to each part of the car. I am currently a university student, so you might notice an emphasis on 'budget' throughout.

Suspension

Are re-valved Bilstein's my only real upgrade over stock shocks? There doesn't seem to be too many options for 'budget' rally/gravel suspension. What springs should I be looking at? traditional coilovers are basically a no-go for a rally car I've gathered.

Drivetrain

Stock standard open 4.1 diff. I'm thinking of welding the spider gears and calling it a day. A weldy for a mix of tarmac and gravel is a no brainer right? As there doesn't seem to be a way of obtaining a desirable ratio without spending an arm and a leg on a gearset or LSD.

Engine

Currently, the 18RC is running and driving and seems very health and is paired with a 5spd manual. I know I'll be going nowhere fast, but as 18RGs seem unobtanium and $$$ these days, It won't be a bad platform to get comfortable on. For reliability, simplicity and throttle response, I'm wanting to install a weber carby, extractors, electronic dizzy and drive until it blows up. Also, as I have to remove the gearbox to replace the rear main seal, should I bother with machining the flywheel?

WTB

Most RA40 threads are over 10 years old, but I suspect some of you have still have some Celica goodies lying around (diff, donor shell, sedan boot lid, overfenders, duck tail spoiler, suspension, 18RG, etc). If anyone has anything that they would be willing to sell, I'll be driving home from Brisbane to Newcastle in two weeks with a fistful of cash.

Cheers!

[altezzaclub]

haha! I love it already!

First up, you will have to divert to Walcha one day and meet Stephen, he doesn't get on here much but he still has a collection of KE70s, Tercels, Landcruisers and Celicas!  We went to BNE and bought parts off someone up there who has stacks of Celicas too!

"I went to bleed the brakes the other day and nothing came out of the breathers on the rear drums! I"   Get this sorted out first, you need that system to be in tip-top shape. You can by-pass/disable the limiter on the firewall to feed full pressure to the rear drums, and then put an adjustable limiter by the gear lever. That way you can get the rear brakes to lock before the front ones on gravel.

"Are re-valved Bilstein's my only real upgrade over stock shocks?" Yes, everything is aimed at tarmac driving and anyone with money throws out their Bilsteins for Murray Cootes handmade shocks. The difference from stock to Bilsteins is magical. Springs you can get from a few places, I think we used Kings at the time. Note the trick of raising the spring perch to get height, although now I'd convert the perch to a 65mm coilover one for a larger range of spring strengths and cambertops.

"Stock standard open 4.1 diff. I'm thinking of welding the spider gears"  Keep researching 4.3 diffs for cheap, but mainly don't welded the spider gears, fill in the teeth beside each one so you leave a little movement in the diff. Its about 1/3rd of a turn of a rear wheel, but important. You will break diffs by welding them, so try to amass more.

" I'm wanting to install a weber carby, extractors, electronic dizzy " Yep, and a cam grind.  Have the flywheel lightened if you can, it all helps and is noticeable in low gears. Later you can chase a 3SGE out of an Altezza or Celica with its J160 6-speed gearbox.

I see no mention of a roll cage or seat mounts.  These days I spend Mon-Fri building rally cars in a fully-equipped workshop at Redhead Motorsport, but Josh talks $10k for a cage, so its quite a commitment. The other side is that a tower-to-tower cage makes the shell much stronger and the car survives rallying better. The downside is that you're at the most likely time to crash it and the cages can't be transferred to another shell, they are welded to the windscreen pillars, the B pillar, through the firewall etc.

Here's some photos just to get you going..

 

Any questions, shoot me a PM.

Have fun!

 

 

Edited October 28, 2025 by altezzaclub

[altezzaclub]

I'll just skim through my photos of The Big Girl and add any comments-

We had a fuel tank made, but you could get a KE55 or whatever that goes in the boot under the parcel shelf. Then cut the boot floor out and just leave the front edge to protect anything if you're putting a pump under the floor. Maybe you can keep it all in the boot with its new floor.

 

Tuck the exhaust right up under the floor and put a flexible joint in it jut after the extractors. Anything hanging down will get destroyed. The Big Girl exhaust was solid-mounted on the floor.

Throw out the heater and buy an couple of cheap Chinese electric ones. Hook these up to the old screen vent system and cover the hole in the scuttle where the air used to go into the heater. You don't want a blown heater core to remove all the radiator water one day. Watch the wattage of the electric heater & fan, the alty has to supply that power and it takes power out of the motor. Run roof vents to pressurise the interior and stop dust coming in.

Throw away the manual fan on the water pump and buy a good electric one with square blades. Run it on a temperature switch and a manual switch as well.

https://daviescraig.com.au/category/thermatic-electric-fans

Fit a good solid cross-strut bar in the engine bay, the turrets move a lot otherwise.

Cut the rear bump stops until they hit just before something else hits, you want as much travel as you can get. Check it with a jack and no springs or shocks in, its amazing how the arms and diff hit at once. Also why the exhaust goes up as high as possible.  Then try the shocks in only, no springs, they don't want to bottom out before the bump stops hit or you will bend the shafts. Then get the bump stops the right length.   Softer long bump stops if you can find them, we used Falcon front ones in the Purple People Eater KE70. Check the shock mount holes in the body to make sure they're not worn oval.

Get 3mm plastic sheet fitted underneath from the B-pillar back as the body gets smashed by rocks back there. Reinforcing plates over the arm mounts too.

Ah, so much to do....

Oh- with the rear brakes, the hose on the diff probably split and pumped the fluid from the rear brake part of the master reservoir out, then it filled the front part only and you're running on fronts only. Make that a priority.

 

Edited October 29, 2025 by altezzaclub

[jonahcorolla]

Amazing. I expected nothing less from the rally aficionado and Toyota whisperer himself.

I must confess I'd be nowhere without the invaluable information and knowledge provided by yourself and others on the forum. Here is my beloved yellow submarine that I care for dearly and is where the obsession and learning began. The stock 4K has been manual swapped courtesy of your guide, and is being pedalled by an auto 4.3 borgy. Fruits include electronic dizzy, ebay aisan carb fenix radiator, and electric thermo fan. Carbed 4AGE coming eventually...

Anyway back to jalopy no. 2

From what I've gathered I certainly feel like a mini Stephen hahaha. What is the best way to contact you both? I will definitely have to stop by on the way home and hopefully leave with a boot full of goodies.

Here comes the question ping-pong.

Fixing the brakes is definitely priority number one. It wasn't until I drove home from BNE to Newcastle that I realised I only had fronts... 

Would installing a manual brake setup be ideal? I'm honestly quite unfamiliar with a manual system, as I've only recently learnt they are favourable for race/rally cars. Would a manual conversion be much hassle and would I see much benefit on stage? (May as well add braided lines to the list while we're at it)

Something I forgot to mention. I was shocked that this has a steering box. Did Toyota cheap out or was this a matter of clearance and engine packaging? Regardless, the ball joints- specifically the pitman arm - is so flogged that when I went over 80km/h the entire front of the car would death shudder and vibrate. Felt like I was driving a jack hammer the entire way home. I don't see a point in a rack & pinion conversion, as rally cars of yesteryear seem to have managed fine without. New ball joints, bushes (eventually), tie rods, and both pitman and idler arms should have the car feeling like new. This and the brakes are top priority.

Can you recall the mob that re-valves the Bilstein's in Sydney? Or know of anywhere else? Regarding the springs I was mainly after any rates you can recommend off the top of your head, or is it mainly an issue of gaining clearance?

Are sigma LCAs a bolt in replacement and extend 30mm? Probably easier nowadays to extend the stock LCAs myself (30mm seems to be the sweet spot?). I was also keen on cutting and shutting the knuckles for quicker steering and a bit of extra lock.

I'm a big fan of borgy diffs and the plentiful amount of 4.3s lying around, but was quite shocked at the options for the T series. As I understand Australian Celica's never revived a 4.3 ratio? I believe 4.3 gear sets for T series are also quite rare? Did auto AE86s ever receive a 4.3? Wondering what other options I have without splurging on an aftermarket gear set.

This is fascinating. I've never seen mention of 'partially' welding a diff before. If you could elaborate on this that would be amazing. Does this imitate an LSD at all? Does cornering at low speeds allow for minimal wheel rotation, or is still fully locked and only a matter of diff longevity? I recall you installed a 4.8 Weir gear set in The Big Girl and welded the spider gears. Did you do something similar, or has this been a 'recent' enlightenment?

You seem to have read my mind. A 3SGE with a J160 would have been my first pick if money were no object, but a worked 18RG with screaming carbies would make my heart smile. One day...

Yeah a half/full cage and chassis reinforcement is a bit of a non-negotiable, but is lower on the priority list at the moment. The same with exhaust clearance and bash plates/under body armour. Those cages fabbed by Josh look like works of art!

The boot is a bit of a rust heap, so removing the wheel well for some added real estate and a fuel cell is a great idea.

Another great reliability upgrade - I've been eying those electric heaters for my corolla too. The heater core bomb detonation is a matter of when not if unfortunately. An aluminum rad and thermo fans are high on my to-do list aswell.

How concerned should I be about the power loss of the electric fan and heater? Can I upgrade my alty so this isn't a problem?

Roof vents for the win! That can be the finishing touch to make everything official.

Cheers for the heads up on the bump stops aswell.

Realistically the Celica won't see unsealed road until the brakes, steering, engine and diff situation are taken care of.

The fun is just about to begin, especially with uni holidays starting in a week.

[altezzaclub]

Wooo! The Yellow Submarine is absolutely gorgeous! Definitely a 4AGE candidate!

"Would installing a manual brake setup be ideal? ' Ideal, yes, but not necessary. It involves two master cylinders, just like clutch ones, and a horizontal bar between them. The brake pedal pushes on the bar, and that junction can be wound along the bar towards one m'cyl or the other, so the pedal pushes harder on one or the other. A flexible cable to the dash winds the bias bar along, so you can select more rear brakes for tight stages and more fronts for faster sweeping corners. However, just buying larger rear slave cyls mean more rear brakes with the stock setup, and the amount of rear brakes is set by the adjustable bias screw you fit by the gear lever. That also means the brake line runs inside the car, does the hydraulic handbrake and doesn't get damaged by stones.

Steering boxes were all they had in the 70s, racks came in with the KE70 in the 80s really. The rack might be a whisker more 'feely' than a box, but boxes work fine and often give more lock.  Learn about the box and how to adjust it, and fix the various joints as you mentioned. You'll want about half a degree of negative camber on the front struts, and plenty of castor, and that turns into more feedback in the steering. Don't go overboard with camber, on gravel you never build up the lateral G-force that you do on tar so the tyre never uses the camber.

Sydney Shocks are the Bilstein people, check with Stephen as he used to organise that. The front shock is a re-valved Commodore that is turned down a whisker to fit in a Celica strut, the rear is a re-valved Diahatsu I think. I don't know who else does them.

"Probably easier nowadays to extend the stock LCAs myself" Yes, the Stanza in the top picture is Josh's latest toy, and we are looking at exactly the same things- Brakes, rack or box, LCA length... The usual one is to fit a rose joint in the end of the LCA, although if a Sigma will do it they are easier on the chassis. Jack it to the ride height you want and measure the LCA-strut triangle to see how much LCA length you need to get the camber you want. I'm using Celica LCAs in the Girls KE70 and it gives zero camber.

"I was also keen on cutting and shutting the knuckles for quicker steering and a bit of extra lock. " Yes, we are talking that too, although I don't think we did it on The Big Girl. I do expect the Stanza will end up much quicker overall.

" I believe 4.3 gear sets for T series are also quite rare?" Keep chasing... somewhere on the web is a list of all the Toyota diffs and ratios, I can't remember which forum it is on. No limited slip units for Borgies, that's the big attraction of the T-series.

The diff gears get the tooth hollow filled up with weld on each side of their contact point, so each gear can tilt from touching a weld on one side to touching the weld on the other. I expect you could leave two teeth clean on each gear where they contact, or three if you want, Stephen's uncle did it and I wasn't there at the time. Its just to give you the initial bite on the front tyres before it locks to get rid of some of the terrible understeer you get from welding the teeth together.  Have a play when you have the diff out sometime and see how many teeth each gear covers in say 1/6 turn of the axle, which would give you1/3 turn of a wheel. Its hard on the diff teeth, so collect spare diffs when you can. If you catch up with Stephen go & see BJ, he can tell you what he did at the time, both him and Steve's Dad were heavily into rallying back when I was.

"How concerned should I be about the power loss of the electric fan and heater? Can I upgrade my alty so this isn't a problem?" Yes, but every amp out of that alty is a power loss to the rear wheels. I'd go for fan speed over heating, so I reckon a  couple of Chinese 250watt units over one 500W. Divide that by 12V and you're pulling 40amps, over half a stock alty.  Of course you'll only need them on a cold rainy night rally when the screen fogs up, just as you need another 40amps for the spotlights! You could just buy a bottle of silicon screen-clear and keep a rag by the gear lever!

The famous Uni holidays! Right- strip every panel off the car, guards, boot, bonnet, doors and check each for rust and cracks in the chassis.  Clean and paint everywhere to stop more rust coming. Silicon the frames of the bonnet and boot back onto the skin. Motor and box out for an engine bay inspection, and lie underneath looking for accident damage in the past and any spotwelds that are popping or distorted. If you're lucky its a clean straight shell, so start seam-welding the front turrets and engine bay, and around the rear spring and shock mounts. Are you back in BNE for this? I have a property out in Kingaroy and I haven't been to see Steve in 12months, so it sounds like I need a trip up there. Exciting times...

 

Edited October 29, 2025 by altezzaclub

[jonahcorolla]

Understood. I'll just keep it simple and address the brake situation as is, and look into installing that biasing screw near the gear level later down the track.

I take it that adjusting a steering box to remove the 'slop' shares a similar adjustment mechanism to adjusting valve lash.

Regarding the specs for the cam grind, what should I tell the machinist? Or will they know what to do?

Can I get much castor adjustment with the stock setup? Or will I need to get extended castor rods, bash the guards/body in for clearance etc?

I'll keep my eyes peeled for favourable T series gear sets. I know exactly the page you're referring to with all the gear sets and diff codes, but I can't seem to find it right now either. 

If I were to install a certain gear set and weld the diff, does that render the crown and pinion of the gear set unusable again? E.g if I brake the diff, can I transfer that gear set into another diff center?

"every amp out of that alty is a power loss to the rear wheels." I had no idea the alty had such a big impact on performance. I will definitely have to take this into consideration, as spotlights are essential to any cool rally car.

I'm fortunate that the frame is quite straight and clean, however there is a fair share of rust mainly in the boot, but also a bit up the front. What I'm most concerned about are small rust holes in the frame, where the front guards attach to the chassis. Once I strip the car I'll be able to get a good look and upload some photos.

[altezzaclub]

Well, Uni holidays!  Strip the car, the more the better... you'll have the front guards off so go over every seam carefully, especially chassis rails and turrets. Ideally you would remove the paint in 30mm strips every 70mm or so and then weld along the seam, both sides if possible.  Especially where the chassis rails join the firewall, seeing you have the motor and box out too... Clean the engine bay and paint it white, you will be thankful for that in years to come!

With the struts off, turn the steering wheel most of one way, either left or right.  Loosen the locknut on the adjusting screw on top of the steering box and use a flat-blade screwdriver to screw it in. When you feel it bottom out unscrew it 1/8th turn and cinch up the locknut. Go turn the steering wheel and see if it feels smooth right through the lock to lock.  That adjuster pushes the gear down onto the spiral worm in the box and they wear, but because the wheel is straight ahead 90% of the time they wear most there, and if you tighten it down to remove all play straight ahead, it will jam when you turn the wheel. You can minimise the play but keep it smooth through the turning, no tight spots. If you're keen, top the box up with the thickest oil you can find, diff or proper steering box oil. If you're really keen, pull the box out, drain it, flush with petrol a few times then put in fresh oil. Your gearbox and diff will be the same, 40years of metal filings, dirt and degraded oil in there..  Check the oil you drain out for metal filings, if it looks like metal-flake paint you might have a gearbox or diff problem coming up. Go over each joint in the whole steering system, especially that idle arm on the other chassis leg, and make sure they are smooth and tight. There, steering done!

Brakes are the same, get all four stripped and checked, look for diff oil getting past a seal, or dry wheel bearings in the front. Make sure the pads in the front are wearing the same, or you may have a sticky piston in a caliper. If the rear shoes are worn more in the front you can swap them around with some pain-in-the-ass work. If the rear drums are worn it will be a fight to back the shoes off as the adjusters are on a one-way ratchet, and once you get the drums off remove any lip on the edge. Crawl under the dash to see if any fluid is leaking out of the master cylinders, brake and clutch. Bleed the fluid right out of both of them and refresh with new fluid once everything else is checked and working.

Cam grinds usually have a range they can cut, with comments like these-

 

I doubt you'll be looking over 6000rpm really, if they can improve the power from 3500 to 6000 it would be great. You'll just have to talk to the cam guys.

Castor- maximise what you can on the stock rods until you hit the guard, I don't remember it being a problem.  More than anything you want the car to be predictable and forgiving, not fast but unstable with instant transitions from understeer to oversteer.

Welding the spider gears won't affect the crown wheel and pinion directly, but bits of weld and broken spider gear teeth floating around in the oil is not good for them. If you get hold of a 4.6 or 4.8 C/W & pinion just put them aside until you have a limited slip setup in there.

So, the big project these holidays it to strip the whole car, clean and repair, and plan the mods. Seats and interior out, cleaned and rust-proofed, motor and box out, radiator checked and all hose, and the connections where the hoses go into the motor.. they get corroded over the years. Suspension off, seams all checked and welded where possible. Do you weld yourself? What sort of welder?? It would be nice if it did up to 3mm steel as well as making a good job of 0.9mm panels.  You'll need it for welding out the rust, and you can see some excellent work on here-

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/84545-ke26-restomod-project/page/8/#comment-738351

Don't forget alty and water-pump bearings, fan belt, clutch and flywheel, check it all without pulling the motor apart.

Decide when you're going to cage it, and what events you can do without a cage. You can keep it a noisy rough road car for gymkhanas and khanacross, maybe the odd rallysprint, I can't remember what the regs are these days, but its worth getting the whole car checked and fixed before you start modifying it.

 

[jonahcorolla]

I'm happy to report that I have regained my rear brakes, and I will be meeting with Stephen on my trip! The rubber line from the body to the diff was clogged. After a thorough clean, new brake fluid and a bleed, the car is stopping alot better. The drums are fine - they still have a lot of meat on them and the diff seals seem to be doing their job.

I'll tackle the steering box once I sort all new links and joints.

I've stripped most of the interior, however I'm quite puzzled how one goes about removing the left over carpet/foam/sound deadening that seems to be caked onto the chassis. 

I'm very fortunate that my grandfather is an ex boiler maker, so this is where my welding crash course begins. We just got our hands on a mig welder, which should be sufficient for reinforcing the car and all the various repairs.

There's a long way to go before my first rally, so it will be exactly that - a rough noisy road car for khanacross and rallysprints until things are in order.

Here are a few goodies I'll have to tackle eventually. 

[altezzaclub]

Excellent! That is a great start! ..and thank the heavens for having a boilermaker in the family too, that will be a great shortcut for you.

So, fix all the rust and get a good shell out of it. Start seam-welding the turrets and suspension areas so they are stronger than factory.

Look at building yourself a fuel tank that fits inside the boot, rather than under it. It doesn't have to be too big, rallies run with refuels, but get it out of the stone damage area.

The sound deadening comes off with solid CO2, dry ice, which will give you frost-bite if you handle it with bare hands. Put it in a big plastic bag on the floor, leave it for a few minutes and then bang under the floor with a rubber mallet. It freezes the tar and makes it rigid. Buy it from BOC of one of the other industrial gas companies. We also use a small solid scraper that you can tap with a  hammer to knock it off. The blade must be 2mm thick and totally non-flexible.

Fold up some alloy sheet to make a firewall covering the rear seat frame, or use some galv steel if its cheaper. Only need to be 1mm or so,and a stack of rivets into it.

Only ever weld clean steel, no paint, no rust, no dirt, its the one thing I've learnt working with Josh, and he doesn't get those immaculate welds by accident!

 

[altezzaclub]

Ok- Here's the scraper you need, and the handy bent tool for removing plastic trim.

If you have clean steel to weld, use this copper weld-though spray only. Every zinc one we tried, including the same brand in zinc, were rubbish!

When I arrived this morning, Josh had spent the weekend cutting a cage out of the spare Stanza shell and adding bars to it-

The rust in the front corners had been plated and he'd made the two feet for the lateral bars.

Note its not welded to the floor yet. He'd made the rear feet too, and this is where you want yours-

That's just tacked together while we make the tower bars. Then you take out the front feet, cut the tacks off the top plate of the rear feet and drop the cage down to floor level. This gives you enough room to just weld the top of every join in the roof.

Once we welded the main cage and put it back up on the feet we fitted the tower bars. These join the front suspension to the cage and it goes all the way back to the rear suspension. It won't be cracking the transmission tunnel again!

Now everything gets welded up, and a dash bar is already in place and tomorrow will be side-intrusion bars, maybe a sainz bar and the rear bars.

That will be the cage done, the next massive job will be replacing the dash and doing all the wiring. The block is assembled, correctly this time, last time they had the wrong main bearing in #5, and that is an oil feed to the head, so not much oil got up there... Now we find the head has been skimmed where it meets the block, as usual, but not on top, so the cam doesn't want to turn in the towers because they are not aligned.  Hopefully the head comes back tomorrow for motor assembly.

Are you SURE you want to get involved in this sort of circus??

[altezzaclub]

Here's a full set of side intrusion bars, more than the Stanza will get, and the Sainz bar, named after a massive roll Carlos Sainz had a couple of decades back that collapsed the A pillar.

[altezzaclub]

Cage finished yesterday, the rear bars were last, after I took this photo-

 

The front tower bars join the front leg right where the top side-intrusion bar is, so it throws any stress right along the car. The rear bars go from the top side-intrusion to the rear floor near the rear spring perches, so the pipes join front to rear suspension rigidly, plus there are 4 running across the car in a box. The lower one across the main hoop is welded to the tunnel where the back seat went, there's one under the dash, one above the windscreen and the main hoop itself.

So its all about making the car rigid rather than worrying about driver's rolling it, it will make the shell last much longer.

The front is ready for the motor to go back in today-

Edited November 11, 2025 by altezzaclub

[altezzaclub]

Well,  we have a Stanza that runs, and hopefully tomorrow it can be driven, as it needs to be on a trailer and 5hrs South tomorrow night!

Now, seat mounts... should you change your seats don't hack up the original mounts, just cut them out of the car and make proper rally mounts. Get some 38mm CDS tube, which is what roll cages are made from, and some 3mm steel plate, and do this-

So make a plate of about 100-120mm each side and weld that to the sill-

..and to the tunnel. Cut the tube to fit exactly-

Slice some 40x40 box section, use a hole-saw to cut a 38mm hole in it and drill a slot for 10mm bolts, then weld the stub to the tube.

They are spaced to fit the seat mounts in width and length, so when welded up your seat rail can move forward and backwards, just bolting onto those tabs-

You can use the whole 40x40 box as a mount instead of just tabs,  with a tube for wrapping the crutch straps of the 6-point harness onto.

You can weld a captive nut inside the tube where its needed, or if you can't reach it you weld the nut on the bottom with a crush tube inside the box section. That's what make tabs easier...

You should end up with better RA40 than The Big Girl was...

 

[Banjo]

I'm am amateur welder; but am "in awe" of people that can produce precision cutting & welding, like you depict there.

However, it was something I spotted in the top right corner of one of your great set of photos, that brought a smile to my face.

I gather you sit on "the Esky", & put your feet on the two little "steel sticks" out the side. I can just see a handle bar & steering mechanisms on the front wheel. However, it's the  yellow & black "motor at the rear that caught my eye.    It looks to me, that it might be a chainsaw motor, with blade & cutting chain removed ? ? ?

Cheers Banjo

Edited November 13, 2025 by Banjo

[altezzaclub]

"that it might be a chainsaw motor, with blade & cutting chain removed "

Yep,and it says everything about Josh that you need to know...

The day was spent making fine adjustments to the steering tie-rods-

To match our hunt for extra camber-

We had a test run & then straight onto the trailer for a 4hr trip South and in the dirt tomorrow morning. Going, but not yet finished-

So,how's the Celica coming along?