All Activity

Thanks @pogopins, that's handy to know. I will continue my hunt then, if anyone has a recommendation then please let me know.

this does sound like a neat solution but my experience with the VAG squirters has not been good

Honestly had a really hard time trying to get the throttle linkage setup there is not a lot of information on how people run the linkages on a stock 4K engine with Weber 32/36 but after some mucking around and getting a proper throttle linkage, it is running smoothly.

It pops up occasionally, then disappears.

Ah, I didn't know you knew Parrot- "I don't suppose this source is Philip Colina aka pfncolina / dhee / dhee77 / Budi / etc. based in Manila?" Page 2 of this thread.

China already did gave a quotation, still NOT vialble. German company did also proposed, again its NOT commercially viable for ROI!!!

Liam, NO WAY! I will not have the 3K-R head reproduced and will be abused and damage in reproduction process as it will need to be dissected. Commercial viability is also not favorable because you will not be able to find enough buyers for your ROI! By the way, price of replica is much lower than the originals right? And what will happen to the price of the original if replica abounds??? It will all favor you but NOT the 3K-R owner, a somewhat lap-sided proposition. Thanks

But as I draw closer to having the repairs to this tailgate done I am starting to think about some of the requirements/upgrades that I would like to have for this tailgate. - but more strength : I will put some extra bracing in the door frame as previously I noticed how bouncy the panel was. I have a plan for this one so stay tuned 😉 - Central locking : this will take some thinking. I'm open to suggestions - rear window wiper + nozzle : I will try get a kit and see what it looks like. I know the VW/Audi hatches have the nozzle in the spindle for the wiper so this could a neat solution - reversing camera : this should be easy enough, but I'm just thinking of a way to mount it cleanly beneath the Toyota badge. Most of these will require some modification to the tailgate, but this is the perfect time to plan for them

The finished product turned out ok, it was a bit funky welding at different angles as the replacement panel bent over curves. So my welding went a little astay in some sections. But a little grinding to get everything flush and I will need to go over the whole thing and get the file finish I'm looking for. But the front turned out ok, The back I'm still working on but you can see a little warping in the bottom of the panel, but I'll be cutting this but off anyhow.

Well I took a clean template from the side I haven't touched yet before I started to weld the pieces in. Once the measurements were taken I then grind flush the tacks and did my stitch weld process to minimise the heat in the panel This is also a good time to get the hammer and dolly out to lightly tap the weld and release any tension that had built up. Then I went back over and completed the weld

weld closer to the door way to allow the fumes to escape easier & better air ventilation is always better for ur lungs... keep up the good work... love KE26 wagons! i use to have one 30yrs ago LOL... maybe i should show u my KE25 sprinter almost finished after 8yrs...

My thoughts also ! Don't know what it is in our makeup, that drives us, to hold onto olde things & keep them going. Certainly not a trait with the current generation of youth, that change their mobile phones, like they change their underpants. It's called "advertising ! There are some wonderful vids on the net, of these groups of olde guys, in the UK, that spend years rebuilding olde steam tractors, after which, they take them to group meets, where they fire them up, & drive them around in circles. It's called "happiness". https://youtu.be/x8IMaD9JE2s If that has wet your appetite, just have a look at this, & the numbers of people who go to this show, to see all things "olde" ; & yes, there are some cars also. https://youtu.be/SIHp9Vvvb4s Cheers Banjo

I'll swap you a Commodore V8 & a fish tank.. Just imagine how worn-out a motor is when its 50years old, and then you find there are no pistons available, or bearings or seals.. You'd be better selling us Filfrederick's one, at least its current.

OMG! I pity those guys dying of ENVY!!! But I understand because only 20 of these 3K-R were ever built at a hefty cost back in 1970s. You can contact me at [email protected] if you want to get real with what you say here. Oh well, God bless you all!

I watched the "blade skin & slide rail" repair, from end to end last night, & it is truly amazing, to watch, despite many bits been intentionally sped up, in places. Thank You for posting. Cheers Banjo

Heya, I do watch cutting edge engineering as it's amazing to see how they repair such massive pieces of equipment. I have seen those helmets but you are right they are not cheap, but they are required if you are a professional welder or if you weld over 300amps (you will need to check me on that, I'm not in that league so I'm not totally sure. Could be more or less...). But for me the thing is to keep the metal clean before welding. They means sanding the paint off and I usually Scotch Brite right before I weld. If parrot is working on a scuttle he may not be able to clean the back side so the fumes could be burning paint, but a respirator helmet is a few hundred and could be worth it.

there are powered welding helmets that give you a nice clean air supply; I believe the air supply part is generally called "PAPR"? They're not cheap but they're probably cheaper than whatever the argon etc eventually does to you I've heard that they also help with fogging if you're a glasses-wearer If you watch Cutting Edge Engineering on YouTube (recommended!) you'll occasionally see that guy using one Great to see some more progress here 🙂 edit: found one.

Haven't actually tried it as yet. Some modern ECUs have an input for a knock sensor, & automatically lower the advance a little until the "knocking" is no longer detected. It allows you to get fairly "aggressive, with the advance table, while "learning" the engines characteristics, without running the risk, of doing any damage. I need to make up a little 6kHz filter, so I can see it on the oscilloscope. Cheers Banjo

Hmmm... what did you learn from that knock sensor Banjo?? It has crossed my mind occasionally, but knocking in a non-turbo car is not so serious so I hope I can hear it before its too bad. I think we just get the fast-flame-front knocking from the spark being too early rather than the explosion before the spark plug fires that a turbo can get.

So first step on a wet Saturday; yesterday in "the shed", was to transpose the "camshaft sprocket cover", onto the 5k engine. I've swapped back over to the original 5K crankshaft pulley, as it was designed to minimise harmonic imbalance in the crankshaft itself (I believe) This will require a longer fan belt, but that is not an issue. The main concern, & requirement, for sensing the imbedded magnets, on the outer rim of the trigger wheel, is "concentricity"; so the gap between the the outer edge of the aluminium disk, & the tip of the Haltech Hall Effect sensor, is very uniform. The use of very strong rare earth magnets, with a rating of N45 or greater, should provide greater tolerance, or slight run-out of the disk. You can take out the Hall Effect sensor, & stand above & look down the hole, in the mounting bracket; & see how well the edge (width) of the aluminium disk, is centred under the hole. I have place several large washers, directly behind the aluminium disk, to space it slightly away from the edge of the crankshaft pulley. These washers, also allow the disk, to be moved backwards, or forward, to accommodate the thickness of the disk. I'm currently using a 6mm thick disk, but the latest disk, I have just aquired is 8mm thick; & I've now just learned, of where I can obtain a 10mm thick one, if I need it, to be able the drill holes in the edge of the disk, to accommodate a larger diameter rod rare earth magnet. The next part of the exercise, is to create a wide camshaft position pulse, that can be logic "AND"ed, with the single North pole single on the crankshaft disk, to provide a single pulse per two (2) revolutions, of the crankshaft, for sequential ignition & inject operation. I have three (3) options, in this regard. (a) Use the existing cam position sensor I have created using a a "gutted", olde Denso distributor body, with dissy cap removed, & replaced by a "jam jar lid". The pulse will simply have to be larger in width, than the single "north" pole pulse from the crankshaft. (b) Use the Hall Effect sensor, I have fitted to the camshaft cover, detecting a rare earth magnet attached to the camshaft sprocket. This has one advantage that, both crank & cam Hall effect sensors, would be mounted on the same camshaft sprocket cover, & would look simple, neat, & very purposeful. Now the camshaft one, that is already been in place for a couple of years, has not given an "ounce of trouble". However, if it real-life, you had to get access to the magnet assembly; on the camshaft sprocket; it would be a very difficult job, to remove the camshaft sprocket cover, with the engine, in the engine bay. (3) I've come across a reference on the net recently, of someone using the camshaft lobe tip, for driving the mechanical fuel pump, to trigger a Hall Effect device. I daresay, it would work alright, even though the lobe in the K series engines, doesn't directly point towards the middle of the mounting point opening, on the side of the block. However, & don't particularly fancy the Hall Effect sensor, operating reliably, in that very hot environment, being constantly "splashed", with hot oil. I think, with those restrictions, the gutted dissy shell that I have already made, will be the way I go initially. Unlike the other two alternatives, "a" & "b", there is no issue with access, or being in a constant hot & oily environment. All i have to do, is maybe install a rare earth magnet, with a wider face, so the the pulse width of the cam position sensor overlaps the single "single north pole" crankshaft pulse. Anyway, I currently will have a knock sensor attached to the unused mechanical fuel pump mounting point, so that option is out So that's the objective for today; & then it will be time to pull the camshaft sprocket cover off, & build an "all aluminium" mounting block, for the primary, Haltech dual Hall effect sensor. Cheers Banjo

Can’t believe I didn’t think of that! Was lying bed last night thinking about getting a bigger fan. Oh well, better welds or better lungs? Perhaps I’ll just be sensible and allow the fumes to clear before looking at the weld!

Well, my new "rare earth' magnets haven't arrived as yet, but I have made a 'logic interface", for the Hall Effect sensor, to "mix" the pulses from the two (2) Hall Effect sensors, so I get the exact 36 continuous pulses per revolution, without any missing teeth, & a pulse, once per crank revolution, which is all that is needed for wasted spark operation. However, if we "AND" the camshaft pulse & the single north pole pulse on the aluminum disk, the end result is a single pulse once per 2 revolutions, which will facilitate/allow, full sequential ECU operation. It looks so clean & simple, in practice; as there is only one (1) Hall Effect Sensor housing; but inside it actually has two (2) Hall Effect sensors, side by side, with separate outputs. One output reacts to the "35" off "South" poles, & the other to the "1" "North" pole. Not a "missing tooth"/magnet in sight, which should reduce the overhead of code, that is constantly in play; trying to detect the missing tooth. I've had it working on the bench all weekend, & the oscilloscopes traces indicate it is working perfectly. The single camshaft pulse, per camshaft revolution, will be made slightly wider that the single crankshaft pulse that indicates where the crankshaft is in it's rotation. That single pulse signal, is in perfect synchronisation with the primary 36 pulse train, as you can see in the trace below. Below is a full rotation of the crankshaft, showing the single pulse per revolution, with no missing teeth / magnets; in the main pulse train. The trace indicates there are just 18 pulses per revolution (not 36 off), as the small variable speed electric motor on my bench; used for this testing, is using a smaller 150mm disk, with 18 off pulses per revolution. Many of the missing tooth trigger wheels, have more than one missing tooth, & sometimes in two or three difference places. This is so the "synchronisation", can be achieved in less than 2 revolutions, of the crankshaft. This is primarily used when cranking the engine, to start it; to allow ignition firing, within the first revolutions of the crankshaft. If you want or need to delve into why there are so many different trigger wheel "missing teeth" variants; & you've got an hour to spare, then this webinar on utube, with Josh Stewart, is a good information source. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv4xvBVqQ6g I will position the aluminium trigger disk on the crankshaft, so the the single synch pulse (north pole) occurs 90 degrees before TDC No: 1 cylinder. Hopefully, the Dual Wheel decoder, in the Speeduino ECU, will handle this arrangement perfectly. If starting the engine, becomes a serious issue, I will look at other ways to possibly synchronise the ECU with crankshaft actual position, within half a revolution, which is the best possibility, that is attainable. P.S. The three (3) off MOC5007 IC "opto couplers" are optional; but I have used them to optically isolate the Hall Effect sensors & their 12V supply, from the 5Vdc & logic circuitry, so that any noise in the 12 volt system, is minimised. I've used this arrangement for some time, with excellent results. I could also have just carried out any logic required, for generating the two vital output pulses for the ECU, with a simple little programable microprocessor; but the logic was so simple, that it seemed much simpler, to just utilise, two (2) cheap fixed logic gate chips. Cheers Banjo

Thanks parrot, glad you are enjoying this thread. I'm still learning a lot and there are mistakes a plenty, but I'm just taking my time to make sure the work is still of a decent quality. are you using gas shielded mig or gas less mig? If you are running the argon CO2 mix you might need to move the fan, it will blow the argon from the weld area and can give you a poor weld.

Thanks for that. I had a fun afternoon. The key thing I found was keeping the mig wire short out of the gun to the contact point. And starting the next spot off the edge last one. And as you say going slow and giving it a chance to puddle. I have a fan to blow away the fumes though as it means i am getting pretty close to the weld, and when I lift the mask to have a closer look i was getting a good breath of fumes. Love watching your work!

It's behind the rear seat tank. This is the part number. 83320-19205 If you google it various options come up pretty cheap.