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  1. Today
  2. Had a very similar intermittent fault with my initial 4AGE conversion in the AE86. Was fine for a long time, then would intermittently stop. No start, no start, then eventually restart. Sometimes the next day. Turned out a soldered joint at the EFI relay had popped off the junction box so was making intermittent contact. Very frustrating. Also had a similar issue with idle. The fix came after I installed the idle up sensor. Called the A/C idle up sensor but also increases idle speed with other increased electrical load such as lights etc. For some years I sat at traffic lights in Melbourne traffic with foot on accelerator. It did become somewhat tiresome. That was with 268 degree duration cams where the maximum the ecu could supposedly cope with was 270. That was according to Wade's who did some development work with Toyota on the bigport. Initially I had a factory 4AG engine loom spliced into the 4AC charge/lights and dash loom. Then I installed factory 4AGE AE86 charge/light and dash looms as well. I have never had issue with over run
  3. Yesterday
  4. Well, over 6months later, that was the solution & no further problems. Rego came around last week & the usual garage I go to has been handed down to one of the sons, and he pinged me for tyres and exhaust leak. Fair enough, I could have squeezed 6months out of those tyres before the wear strips, but meh.. Worse was, it didn't idle for him so he put a comment on the sheet & needs it to idle in 12months. He was really keen on a dyno garage in Dubbo, but that's a 300km round trip from here and I dunno how many hundreds of dollars on the machine. He said it would be a thousand dollars well spent.. Nearly killed me! The difference comes in that he thinks the dyno guy can alter the ECU to make it idle with its race cams, while I understand that you can't alter anything in the ECU. All there is to play with is ignition timing & idle speed, and as I have played with, the waxstat cold idle adjustment. It idles a lot of the time, but then drops a couple of hundred rpm, then another couple, then dies.. Doesn't worry me, I'm used to it, I heel & toe naturally. I reckon the jerky over-run is also cam related, there is just a very poor idle vacuum for the MAP to work off. Any ideas?? Things improved when I put the mixture display back in and hooked it onto the oxy sensor wire. I'd taken it out to calibrate a mate's system and ...found I never re-connected the oxy sensor to the ECU as I planned on putting the mixture display back on that afternoon, and didn't! Its better now it doesn't have to run on the ECU map in open loop, and of course when I took it back to the garage he talked about it but didn't try it! Tyres are meh... Falkens on the front, Bridgestones on the back, and at least the Bridgestone's soft sidewalls give it that lovely sharp tail-out turn in. I already know putting them the other way around gives gentle endless understeer. There are just no good 13" compounds made any more.
  5. Last week
  6. The good old ae92. great cars. yours got a carby or efi? I would suggest a 20V or a 16V but holy moly the prices of 4ages have gone through the roof. Maybe a honda k24 😉
  7. Looks like a survivor Steve! A set of OEM alloy wheels would jazz it up I reckon, whether from a later model Corolla or maybe even Echo wheels.
  8. The 17x7 +50 are indeed 2mm further in than the 16x7 +48 that were on it. It does appear more though doesn't it? They certainly appear further in than the ZR 18" wheels, which fill the wheel well. Spacers have been mentioned, but I dunno - I'm in two minds. I've never really been a fan of spacers! But it would definitely help visually on the rear at least.
  9. oh nicely done. How do they offsets compare to the old ones? they look a bit more sunken in on the rear?
  10. Looks like a great project so far Carlos. Oh I remember when I had the chance to buy one of Lou's lovely KE17s for a few thousand dollars in the early noughties.. I wish I had!
  11. It really pops in the sunlight! Digital photos seem to lose the sparkle of the cyan metallic flakes
  12. I was growing tired of the plain 16x7 wheels, while wanting to keep an OEM look. I feel the OEM 18' wheels are just too big and low profile for driving I do so, I purchased these 17x7" 86 GTS wheels from a fellow on a Fakebook page - turns out he's a tech at my local Toyota dealer - and buried them in the shed for a few months. Then the next door neighbour landed a new job opening a new Yokohama tyre store. Of course he convinced me that I "needed" new tyres! So with 27,000km on them and still plenty of tread left, I swapped the 16x7" wheels for the 17x7" 86 wheels, with some lovely cost-plus Yokohama Bluearth GT tyres. Not super sticky, but so much better than the Bridestone Ecopia tyres they replaced. And well suited to the fortnightly parental Brisbane-Toowoomba-Brisbane-Toowoomba-Brisbane driving duties that this car is used for 95% of the time. They're not the most aggressive looking upgrade, but I figure it's a nice performance/comfort compromise. And still looks like it could be a dealer fitted option. Though I had to grind down the inside of the front caps by 1mm to get them to fit snugly over the hub. Love this car!
  13. As the u-tube video above relates, the reason we need a big ampere/hour battery, is for just one thing; to start the car ! Once the car is started, you really only need a quite small battery, as the power/current consumed by the car once running, is very small, by comparison to starter motor current, which can easily be supplied by a small alternator & smaller battery. I'm olde enough to remember my dad using a crank handle, to start our Morris straight 6, when it had a flat battery. It not only took a lot of effort, but if it fired & "kicked back", it could really do some damage to your arm or wrist. The reason the starter motor is large, is that it is working against the compression in the engine. Lots of remarks on the net that we only have another 10-15 years, before the demise of I.C.E. motors. I read an article recently, in which it claimed the ICE motor is not done with yet, & there are still those developing new features, to prolong it's life. One that caught my attention was a "camless" engine, where the valves are opened by hydraulic pressure, controlled by electronically controlled electric valves. They have built running engines, that rev to 20K rpm, using this technique. One feature that caught my attention was the fact, that the starter motor size could be greatly reduced, & hence the size of the battery. The technique was that when starting the engine, all valves would be opened except one. Once it kicked in, the other cylinders could be brought on-line, one at a time. Crazy when you thing about it, that we lug this very heavy battery around all day, simply so we can simply start the car, when it stops. https://youtu.be/S3cFfM3r510 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bch5B23_pu0 Cheers Banjo
  14. Hi Pete, I could bore you to tears, but this video describes just about everything regarding automotive alternators. https://youtu.be/jdSKlg80DjU The only difference you will come across on our Rollas, is that early Rolla's had alternators, where the regulator was a separate unit, & was non electronic. Later model Rollas have alternators, which have an inbuilt electronic alternator. Alternators, are generally sized by the maximum load current they can produce. Maximum electrical load is usually required during night driving, when lights & other electrical loads are at their greatest. One of the best mods you can do to a Rolla, is fit an alternator, with a greater output. Early model alternators fitted to Rollas, produced 30 - 35- 40 amps max output current. Best mod I ever did to my KE30 2 door, was to fit a Hilux alternator, with 85 Amp output. Others on this forum, have used Holden Commodore alternators, with up to 120 amp output. Cheers Banjo
  15. Water cooled alternators! I wonder what uses those. Probably a Bugatti Veyron or some such. I was working through that and wondered what the field current is, and got onto another page that explained it quite well. https://alternatorparts.com/understanding-alternators.html#:~:text=ALTERNATOR ROTOR&text=Current through the wire coil,%2FC%2C or direct current. It actually starts to make sense, sort of. I seem to recall my old Datsun 1600's had adjustable regulators I vaguely recall twiddling with no idea of what I was doing, and no doubt made things worse. But at least it turned me to reliable Toyota's
  16. My understanding (maybe right, maybe wrong) is that the issue with alternators is that their output changes with rpm...So the regulator is there to keep it in check across the whole rpm range. Alternator needs to be able to charge the battery from 850rpm (idle) and ~6000rpm (redline) without going over ~14volts (so you dont cook anything) Now Mr banjo will hopefully chime in here, but i believe the regulator varies the current in the rotor to regulate the output of the alternator. Looks like the current in the rotor is proportional to the current out put of the alternator (wiki gives an example of a 70a alternator may require a 7a rotor current). So perhaps this explains the difference in sizes in wiring you are seeing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator_(automotive)#Field_regulation
  17. Now I’m not the most electrically minded, but was looking at a Nippondenso KE15 and KE70 alternator regulator yesterday and wondered, what’s the difference? I’m guessing it has something to do with the output rating of the alternator? Certainly some of the wires are a bit bigger on the later regulator. But these little magic boxes have always puzzled me. What exactly do they do?
  18. Earlier
  19. Here's the dimensions I measured off my 1983 slanty when I converted it to Diahatsu Move vented discs. They would be the $52 discs at 218mm. I wonder if the 229mm ones are on AE86s. The longer life ones, 83-87, are on wagons & vans. They stopped making KE70/AE71 in 83.
  20. Hi all. I was hoping to get some help on this. I'm trying to follow the upgrade guide on here https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ke10_Disk_Brake_Conversion There's no info I can find about which KE70 discs to use. Can anyone shed any light on this? Or have measurements from their own KE70 discs they fitted? So far I have KE55 GIRLOCK backing plates & calipers I bought from OZ some years back when on holiday. I'm in NZ Still need to sort KE70 Hubs and Rotors Thought its about time I sort out the KE70 parts for this upgrade I've checked with a wrecker of old Toyota parts, he asked which model KE70, IDK... I've done some checking and there seems to be multiple rotors listed for the KE70. So far I've got 3 numbers that come up from Toyotas own listings. But no specs. 43512-12100 (79-83) 43512-12070 (79-83) 43512-12190 (83-87) Managed to find some info from aftermarket part#s DI-212 (228.4mm OD, 32mm Height, 11.5mm Min, 12.5mm Max) $16euro each https://spareto.com/products/japanparts-brake-disc/di-212 DF1915 (229mm OD, 31.5mm Height, 64mm ID, 11.5mm Min, 12.5mm Max) https://spareto.com/products/trw-brake-disc/df1915 (These 2 might be listed for the 79-83 years) DF7533S (81-88) $52.45+ea Size: 218mm OD, 64mm ID Hole, 11.5mm Min , 12.7mm Max, 30mm Height) and found this listing for KE55 DI-218 (217.6mm OD, 30.3mm Height, 9mm Min, 10mm Max)https://spareto.com/products/japanparts-brake-disc/di-218 Any info would be appreciated! Thanks 🙂
  21. Thanks! photo is just taken on the phone of all things. but bit of christmas lights there makes it look pretty good. I bought a new Mic for the DSLR and did a bit of night testing a few months back. Not the most exciting video but gives an idea of the sound of the mighty 2.3L 6cr but perhaps i should make some more videos.... https://youtu.be/EdDi6myfYfk And For the first time in a while i have another update only 1 day after my last one. took the bonnet off last night to fix some dents that i have been meaning to fix for approximately......3 years. got a can of color matched paint done up and i sprayed some on the paper there and it looks close enough to me. Better than dents anyway.... I started bashing the dents last night but got in trouble for waking the kids. So ill see if i can get some bashing in before they go to bed tonight.... One of these days id like to get the whole car painted professionally, but that's going to have to until i have a spare $5k or so...so might be some time.
  22. That last photo looks great! I'd say that's a perfect ride height.
  23. One year on hey, and what a strange year it was. Covid has kept us all on our toes, strange working form home arrangements but we had a second child in February 2020. Working from home permanently was pretty great in seeing the family every day. I lost my job in july but was very lucky to find something else very quickly and it has a company car. I'm not allowed to drive the car for non-work purposes, but i can drive it home every day. so I sold my little Subaru Impreza runaround in july and I just use the e30 when required. (which isn't very often with the way things work at the moment) I don't even think i even changed the oil in 2020 in the e30. I did just buy some in the xmas sales so ill do that when i get a chance. In june i got a set of bridgestone RE003 for the car as they had a buy 3 get 4 deal going. The tyre size is a weird size of 205 55 r15. and hardly anyone makes a tyre in that size. Lots of people go 205 50 R15 that is quite common but it makes the rolling diameter a bit small for my liking. the Re003 are pretty damn sticky though and really transformed the car, sticky enough for cruising around. I think i might consider 16" wheels in the future as there just isnt many R15 options anymore. But given how long its going to be before it requires tyres again that might be a while! After a long drive on the highway in November last year I got sick of the stiffer springs in the back, and i put the oem springs back in but i took out the rubber spring pads which lowered it about 10mm and its actually pretty great. So the back is oem sport springs and the fronts are slightly lower king spring (which are only slightly stiffer than oem). I think it actually looks pretty good being slightly higher at the back (but not as high as what it was with the other king springs from a few pages back. raising the back slightly has also considerably reduced the negative camber and toe in so i dont need to get those correction kits anymore, so thats a plus. To counteract the now softer springs i picked up whiteline 3 way adjustable sway bar for $250 i think it was in the pre Christmas sales. OEM is the "mtech" one which is 14.5mm, so already the stiffest oem one. but this new one is 16mm. It has made a subtle but very nice difference even just on the softest setting. Can dive into corners with more confidence but no real change to comfort at all. the new swaybar bushes have probably also helped too. It seems to have really helped with the inside wheel spinning on tight corners. My steering wheel leather is in quite poor shape so i am considering getting something different. its 380mm that is on the big side so i don't want to get a 350mm, that would be too small as the steering ratio is simliar to that of a school bus. so i dunno what to do there. A nardi classic has always been my favourite wheel but might not suit the interior. Perhaps a nardi gara 3 would be nice with the padded centre and they come in 370mm. I have been keeping an eye on yahoo auction, at least we are buying almost 80yen now. Pending how things go i do plan to do some more skid pan events this year. so will report back when/if that ever happens. Anyway a couple of photos!
  24. Have had a look at it and realised that pdf's can't be attached to a post anymore. Have saved the KE1x gearbox set as a jpeg but not sure how they will print. I'll have a go at it and if they work, I'll redo the rest
  25. His all i want to buy a ke10 or ke11 perferably 90% complete or complete. Have cash waiting text or call on 0407984815
  26. Probably go a shortened r31 borgy with billet axles. Got another block on the way but it's only a 3 rib, it is std bore though and with the crank cradle and a resin/grout fill it should get me by for a while.
  27. What are you thinking diff wise? Escort or something larger?
  28. Man its great up here, been making a few friends, I love it. The bank just approved our finance to build starting next month. Weve bought 1.2 hectares, 12,000 sq Metres, thats about 32 Brisbane house blocks, and were just dropping a big 3.5 bed home right in the middle of it, with a 12 x 18 x 4.8 high shed to follow soon after.
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