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  1. Yesterday
  2. Im so not moved by the GR yaris.
  3. Have now done the auto fluid and filter as well as resealing the auto oil pan with a new gasket. Its got new Penrite 85 140 diff oil too. Ive fitted a rear wheel cylinder and bled brakes and fresh fluid right through. I test drove the car and found the front shocks were still in need of doing so I put my Koni Sport adjustables in that I had on the shelf, set 135 degrees back from full stiff. Car feels lovely to drive now, took a good long drive up the highway and it was superb. It now needs the AC fixed, and Im going to hand it over to a painter to redo the roof, bonnnet and boot areas as I dont have the equipment to do that here. Then it will be regretably up for sale.
  4. Interesting how the TE31 has the S series diff with a 3.9 ratio (S314). The TA22 essentially has the same engine and gearbox but with the T series diff 4.1 ratio (T292). KE30 usually has the U282 or U292 diff.
  5. Yes, that's why I'm never too fussed about what my rally cars look like, I know they are temporary...
  6. Banjo

    Project Binky

    Appears Episode 33, where they paint the Mini, has been out for 2 months, & I hadn't picked it up. It took 9 weeks to paaaaaaaint ! Most painful episode yet. I reinforced what I've always known; that painting a car as not something for the novice. Although I nearly fell asleep watching it, there was one thing that caught my eye, & one that caught my ear. My eye couldn't work out why Tony the unbelievable painter, did not appear to be wearing any eye protection. (maybe he has disposable "contact lenses", which he discards regularly). I thought I heard the comment, "Don't know why we go to all this trouble when the car will probably wrapped around a tree in a few months !) Cheers Banjo
  7. Wow ! What a great project car, with still a few things to do, by the successful purchaser. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-toyota-corolla-2/ Somehow, I had not come across "Bring A Trailer" website before, but I'm sure I'll be trolling it in the future. Interesting to note, that many of the little quirky things that we are confronted with with our Rollas; like cracking dash top; are universal; even in area's that are not as hot as Australia. The cracks are in exactly the same places, as my KE30 2 door. Cheers Banjo
  8. Last week
  9. A beautiful car! Did the $8300 bid cover what you have spent on it?
  10. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-toyota-corolla-2/ I'm auctioning my 1977 Toyota Corolla 5-speed coupe on Bring a Trailer, and the auction ends 2-hours from the time of this post. The car is located in Tacoma, WA. 2T-C with emissions delete and Weber 32/36. T50 5-speed transmission 14" Mk II Toyota Celica Supra Wheels Repaint, seats reupholstered, new headliner in 2015 Original A/C car, but engine components have been removed but are included in sale I completely forgot I had an account on these forums and should've posted it sooner, but perhaps some RollaClub members might find it of interest regardless, even after the auction ends. Thanks!
  11. we're on like Donkey Kong πŸ˜‰ needs to be VIC rego though πŸ™‚
  12. Hi Col, It's all yours ! I just registered it in your name, but you'll have to come up here to QLD. (COVID-19 allowing) so I can have a drive of it also.
  13. Now that's not very Toyota-ish ! They must expect that sometimes it is going to depart the road; or need dragging back up onto a "tilt-tray" ? Maybe it is for when Colin takes it "bushwalking" ! Cheers Banjo
  14. Definitely is Dave, quite a lot of new parts getting bundled into the deal. Tail lights in this condition alone aren’t cheap or easy to come by
  15. guess what arrived today at work
  16. Earlier
  17. looks alright to me! A little lower perhaps but not too much.
  18. KE18 Corolla 2-door wagon See pictures for condition have spent quite a bit of money so far , body is mint as is paint, was taken back to bare metal, any visible rust was taken out properly. Setting up fora back interior, seats mint velour , have black roof lining made (not installed as yet). 4k in engine bay is a good clean runner, comes with additional twin carried set up on manifold with all linkages in ec. Front guards are off and wrapped for protection. Tail lights are in mint condition , new rubbers, comes with new sprinter steering wheel , rims are 14inch stocks with 4 brand new tyres. I have quite a lot of other brand new gear I'm happy to package in with this (like new inner and outer tie-rods, idler arms, wheel bearings , badges etc). I have all the original side metal pin striping in mint condition (two sets), Also have 2 grill in ec, 2 front lower valance panels in ec Currently the dash and speedo is out as I have been slowly rebuilding this over time, but I have all of that too. Price is $1500 for the lot Not interested in swaps, or parting out at this point. Looking for someone to take the lot....... Priced to sell Contact via email preferred : [email protected] Located in Murray Bridge SA Can deliver at a cost locally
  19. It won't help you to learn that retractable belts were actually available in the USA. i've got one rear NOS belt I located along the way. I can't see why you couldn't retrofit something from a later model, but you would need to ensure the angle were set up same as in the donor.
  20. I admire your patience, which you need with body resto work. Not something you can rush. Great work ! The rain & moisture in the air here in Brisbane, of late; does not lend itself to achieving good paint finishes. I have a very soft spot for the Celica. I had never owned or driven one even; until I met my wife. She had an RA40 lift back, with that enormous rear "expanse of glass". I think it was a 21st birthday present from her Mum. Looked like this, & I think it was a 1979 model. We did a few interstate trips in it, together; & I fell in love with it. It was a great cruising car, & extremely reliable. It had lovely long legs ! I think the only thing that failed in it, in all those years was an electrical oil pressure sensor/switch, somewhere slightly north of Mildura, on a trip to Adelaide. We put so many klms on it, but were in rented accommodation, at the time, so couldn't really work on it too much. Only thing I recall, that was wrong with it, when we eventually sold it, was the timing chain tensioner, which was oil pressure operated. The chain used to slap a bit, & was very noisy when you first started it up. Cheers Banjo
  21. Ok, there has been much done on this. Been scratching out, rust converting and smoothing out crows feet in the paint. Have removed the power antenna and bought and aftermarket replacement. Have removed rear shocks and purchased a pair of monroe GT Gas shocks for it. Just standard ra65 shocks. Have the rear bumper removed, and Ive been straightening the shell with the heat gun, twisting the corner of the reo straight, and fixing rust in it. Theres a seperate part that mounts the number plate lights inside the skin, it was super rusted out for some reason, and the threaded posts that let you bolt on the skin, well 2 were so rusted they snapped. I drilled them out, replaced them with m6 allen head bolts and ground down a couple nuts to create the stepped mounting they needed and to let me attach them properly. The rusted out part that mounts the lights was then ground off the strip with the threads, and replaced with a piece of zincanneal that I had folded up by levs fabrications here in town. Instead of welding to the surface rusty metal strip that it attaches to, I used a thick gooey epoxy, to seal over any rust in the union between the pieces, stopping cavities that may increase rust problems. They also replaced for me the metal piece that secures the skin all the way accross under the bumper. Mine had been torn away and stretched and was rusty from damage to the bumper anyhow. I never intended to get into the bumper, but I always noticed some suspiciously flaky paint on this lower corner, and in the three years my mate had the car it had started lifting, so when I sanded it back found an old repair, had to remove the bumper to fix the paint there so I just decided to go for it and make it nicer. I redid the blackouts on the bottom with a Upol power can, pretty amazing quality rattle cans those Upol ones. Ive got the arch trims out on the right side, theres no rust in there. Cleaned all underneath it. Pockets are perfect, I repaired one bit of rust under a sill trim, had to just plate over the outer layer and reproduce the square hole for the body clip. Its all filled over painted and has the blackouts redone too. I had the rear screen removed, and repaired the rust that started to come back in the lower right corner. Did a much more thorough job getting any pinholes to be filled with weld, and did great prep with PPG etch primer, filler, sealer and topcoat now. Been buying matched cans from signature refinishing supplies that work great. Have a fairly good sized rust patch just isolated under the drivers door, in the shut of the door itself. Just a fairly simple shaped area that needs to be replated. Bit of a bitch cause I need to remove the door to do it. So the to do list as it stands now is as follows: - Reassemble rear bumper and install. - Repaint roof and bonnet to finish the crows feet repair. - Install the power antenna for the radio. - Install the condenser and new AC o-rings, which I have a couple assortments of thanks to an ebay miss-click. - Put the grill back in. - Change the wheel cylinder on right rear as its leaking, have the part here. - Brake fluid flush and replace. - ATF service and trans filter. Stuff Ive done so far: Waterpump, oil, filter, visual timing chain inspection, new front crank seal, resealed top cover and half moon plugs, replaced all vac lines and deleted the EGR, air pump and emissions crap once and for all, including the metal vac lines array. Resealed and painted the boot seal area. Rust repairs under the rear screen and repainted. Rust repaired the sill. Repaired old crash damage at back bumper. Replaced the top radiator hose. Flushed radiator, new cap as the old one didn't hold pressure, washed out the rad overflow.
  22. You're right! Torx bolts with flat heads and 9mm threads!! Weird! looks like this- Its a weekend warrior the owner wants to keep the trim in, and have the cage removable- Josh did the main hoop & crosses while I did the feet, mirror imaged under the floor. We have a 3M alloy spirit level trailer-strapped to the roof in the right place, and the hoop zip-tied to it while the rear supports are measured. They come down to the back feet, I ringed one in red. There'll be another X in the back part, so it will be one unit, with junctions onto the main hoop. The seat belt bar will go in that too. That's it until after Easter, then finish this, then rescue the new shell for the Orange Cake, and there is a new Mini Cooper for a cage.
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