Leaderboard

Name: Ryan Car: 1975 TE37 SR5 started Pearl White now British Racing Green Motor & Driveline: SDS EFI 3TGTEU w/ 440cc 7MGTE injectors, front facing intake manifold, T3/4 turbo and FMIC, Supra W58 w/ IS300 short shifter, Ford 8.8 with 3.73 gear and LSD, 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust with Magnaflow muffler. Suspension & Brakes: AE86 front struts, shortened to suit an MR2 SW20 5 way adjustable Tokico shocks, coilovers and adjustable T3 camber plates and NRCA. Straightened leafsprings with 8 way adjustable TRD blues. FC3S Rx7 4 pot calipers up front. Wheels & Tyres: Enkei with 195-50 rubbers Interior: Acura/Honda Integra seats, VW Rabbit center console. Re-vinyl was needed for the dash. All plastics were refreshed with vinyl paint. Body: Refreshed entire chassis with new metal and new color. Bumper bars were sent over from NZ. US bumpers are ugly. Other: Replaced entire wiring loom with a brand new universal harness. Steering is upgraded as well with a Starlet manual rack & pinion, and CelicaSupra column with tilt. Air Conditioning is online. All chrome parts are refreshed and polished. That's all for now. Ryan

You could just try ordering the 5k solid lifters from toyota. The part number is 13751-61020 Lots of guys have had good results with datsun a15 1mm oversize valves. You may need to swap over to 4k adjustable rocker gear Id look at the ports short radius and see if you can improve, but apparently the twin squish head ports are heaps better for velocity than all of the ther k series heads. Maybe have your machinist velocity and flow test after larger valves are installed. Yes, you can use your seats. what is the duration at .050 and lift of those cams? what is the fuel octane rating in your country?

PM Oldeskewltoy! Certainly enlarge them to match them to the one-piece gasket. You'll probably gain as much by re-shaping the back of the valve & polishing it, and shaping the valve seat area. Its all in that curvy flow when the valve is part-open, as it spends much more time partly open than fully open. The cam is whatever suits your purpose, remember that it might be a dog to drive in traffic if everything is too wild. I'd save a few bucks by sticking with a cam that uses stock springs, and the adjustable cam gear shouldn't be needed until you take it off the road as a full-time racer. The compression ratio will be apparent when its all finished. The cranking compression will probably be worse, but will climb to higher figures with revs, so you'll have to see how you go with fuel octane and ignition timing.. The block work sounds fine. You could grind the block walls smooth and paint them if you were keen, anything to get oil back down. If the oil pump is in good condition you shouldn't need the washer. Put plenty of work into the ignition timing curve. Find an electronic dizzy if you haven't got one. Chat to Tommy about his KE10 motor, your ideas are similar and his is a rocket-ship.

So I made up a parts bath using a big old plastic container and mixing 50/50 degreaser-water and letting parts go swim for a day or so then water blast them and tooth brush clean them. Today I did the bellhousing, the gearbox outer casings, tail shaft housing and rocker covers are soaking at the moment. After a clean, has come up pretty good! I then set onto installing the new clutch fork assembly. Using all new OEM parts gives the peace of mind that everything will be all nice and dandy. Strange, can't get the fork clips new from Japan but found them on https://partsouq.com/ so that was good. The ones I had spare were all rusty. Clean backside/booty. always nice. I dummy fitted the new bolts to make sure I had them all. Found that I was missing the starter motor bolts so those will be added next to the OEM order which is already 20 items long. Today was a good day! I got my head back from Barry at MRP. Here are some photos he sent me of the head. No need to take my own. The head had to have some extra work done on it so that the 10mm+ lift cams were able to rotate without hitting anything. With receiving my head I also received the last few gaskets and bolts that I was after. Especially for the intake side of things so I could get these beauties bollted together. I installed the front input shaft seal, the output shaft seal, and also the spacer ring between the box and the input shaft that I forgot to install first time round. Nice new slave cylinder I am using OEM head studs so I have used the Toyota torque specs, so need to do the +90 +90. I just did it by eye with my last engine, decided to do it properly this time round. [ Fastforward an hour of fiddling around I got everything bolted together. I am still waiting on some new shims to arrive from Australia so I will have to wait a little bit before I can install the cams etc. [ With that, not long to go before i drop it down the guts into the KE25 and can finally start on another task. I am thinking diff shortening next. Hopefully less expensive than this engine! Today I received my new shims, installed them and also the cams. Pretty self explanatory. I a have still got to dial in the cams which I will do sometime next weekend whilst I wait for my Dial gauge to arrive. Nearly complete, I have also ordered a brand new alternator and a starter motor also for a good price. still have to order a knock sensor and get the water pump -> back of head lines fabricated with a braided line. Have to do this due to the original piping interferes with the knock sensor, and I am also not running a water based heater so I will not be using those that are included on the original hard lines either. I have also ordered the SQEngineering COP valley cover plate to suit the 2nz coils that I will be using which I should receive sometime this week. Ahh. So i made a bit of a large cock up. The cams were far too big for the original pistons, the valve reliefs were to small and when I was dialing in the cams the lobe was hitting the piston by a long shot. Instead of crying about it, I ordered some 82mm (2mm oversized) 12.5:1 compression pistons from Barry at MRP. Took my spare 7-rib block in to the machinists and got that block bored, cleaned and decked also. All is not lost with the other block, I will be using that in my AE86. I put some new frost plugs in the new block and gave it a blase of semi-gloss paint Whipped the head off of the old block Removed everything as it was instead of dismantling it (take pulley -> timing sprocket -> oil pump off, all to put it back on again) Went over to the NEW block, gapped the rings and dumped the goods in. Much better I set about to degree the cams, this time. No fowling on anything! Reconned alternator which is an 80A one It's nice to work on an engine and still have clean hands at the end of it. new bits e'ry where. So that's that for now, I will be installing the clutch and then putting it into the car next. Excited So, lesson. Do more research before completing an engine rebuild so you don't have to take all apart again.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/lO-fXRamSAg Ryan