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The pedal box doesn't look like that much work has been done but it took a long time to get it all aligned. I ended up cutting the tube out of the pedal and made a new pivot tube. The pedal was then welded to the new tube about 12mm to the left to get the pushrod inline with the cylinder. Drilled a new hole in the pedal arm to get, hopefully, the correct throw length. I then had to adjust the angle of the Cylinder against the firewall, spacing out the bottom 6mm to match the angle of the push rod. It is currently spaced out with washers yet will mill up an angled spacer plate once the concept has been proven. The adjusting rod I bought a piece of solid square steel and drilled and tapped for an approximate length to then give the correct adjustment. The stock banjo joint that came with the cylinder was about 15mm short of where the hole needed to be for the angles. I probably should have documented what I did more but it really just evolved until it worked. If I have to pull it out I will do measurements and backwards engineer it. Assuming it works. I still haven't actually tested it, so I hope I have enough throw. From measurements it should have around 90% travel on the pushrod. Turns out of the 2 different thrust bearing I have, I don't have the correct one so yet to check it all actually works. If it doesn't then I have a spare pedal box and will start again and move the pivot point up to increase the throw angle. As much work as that is I wouldn't have to mill a plate for the firewall angle.

Yep thankfully the piston is fine, a bit of scuff on the sides because of the disintegrating bearing below it, but no damage as a result of the broken ring. Will be fine to go back in with a new set of rings. On closer inspection of the crank its definitely no good. So i pulled one from a spare motor tonight, will measure it up and see if out needs a grind.