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Killar_of_giants

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Everything posted by Killar_of_giants

  1. Ill get a kit from AJPS. Thank you all for your help, much appreciated. Id be fooked without Rollaclub.
  2. cheers for the fast responses. It felt sloppy in both left to right and back and forth. Putting the better shifter in seemed to tighten up the left to right play. The plastic bush on the end of the shifter I removed did have wear. The better shifter bush looked pretty good. When not pressing the clutch in, its quite easy to pop it from 1st into neutral. Thanks Dave, I have seen T50 kits available from AJPS. Its been a while sinse I drove KE30's, if its inherit then I can live with it. Just hoping it wont be a problem come roadworthy time.
  3. Got what appears to be a ke70 5 speed in my ke30. The carpets cut to suit the shifter being closer to the handbrake then say a ke55 k40/k50. The gears arnt noisy but it feels sloppy/loose to shift. There was a little play in the shifter so I replaced it with one I had lying around from years back. Its a bit better but it still feels sloppy. Are there adjustments I can make to tighten things up inside the box? Ive never pulled a box apart but if theres a way to tighten things up without rebuilding it Id give it a go.
  4. Thanks Altezza. Ill do what youve suggested tomorrow arvo. Just been reading threw your ke70 thread. Reminded me of when I lived in a farmhouse out the back of Wangaratta on the dole. No winch, hardly any tools and I had to do engine swaps in a Laser and ke30. A fence, shitty jack, upside down wheely bin, a dozen bricks, 70mm x 3000mm galve pole, a large chain I found in a paddock and the misses. Those where fun times.
  5. Found this thread in regards to alternator faults http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62424-ke55-battery-or-alternator/page__hl__%20alternator%20%20fault Started the car today, no battery light. before start battery read 12.86V running battery read 14.36V running alternator read 15.5V engine off immediately battery read 13.75V waited 15 minutes before start battery read 13V alternator before start 13V start engine and waited 5 minutes running battery read 14.3V running alternator read 15.3V
  6. I have 2 problems that I need to sort out. The first being when I start the car and put the lights on, the rear brake lights will pulse or randomly flicker for about 30 seconds or so when the brake pedal isnt pressed. After approx 30 seconds they stop flickering and the lights work as they should. What is buzzling me is why wouldnt this be a constant problem instead of disappearing after the 30 seconds which has me thinking its more then just a simple wiring fault. Second problem is battery light comes on in the morning. Usually after a couple of minutes of driving, the battery lights goes off. The last week or so the light randomly comes on whilst driving to work. Usually the car sits in the sun when I'm at work and more often then not when I start the car after work, The battery light doesn't come on straight away but will randomly light on the drive home. I bought a new battery 2 weeks ago as the old one was on its way out. I bought the correct battery for my car which is a stock AE101. I'm thinking the alternator is dying. Anyone experienced these faults before?
  7. Found this article which I thought was well written from a newb point of view. Could be helpful to those that are converting from carb to fuel injection and just want to know the basics. Doesnt cover surge tanks. PDF
  8. There is a brown AE71 corolla at Jollys in Dandenong. Its an Auto and brown in colour. Apart from being damaged to the drivers side rear panel, the body is straight as. The front end ( body/front guards/bonnet/grill/lights and bumper are in great condition ). It looks like it has a manual instrument cluster too. The car is in pretty good nic apart from some of the interior. Its stock. has air con. I grabbed the radiator but everything else is still there as of today. I'm after a front straight passenger side guard and passenger door for my ke30 2 door sedan but they need to be in great condition so if anyone see's anything, let us know.
  9. Gday MicMak. Harveys and Centre road are dead for ke10,20,25,30,55 and 70's at the moment so if your after parts for these model rolla's, I wouldnt waste my time traveling from western Melbourne.
  10. Caibs reply pretty much sums it up, 3,4 and 5k's. 5k's arnt as popular but they do get advertised from time to time in the for sale section. If you don't have much experience perhaps a pre-built worked 4 or 5K might be the go. Youd learn a little doing an engine swap as its very easy and if your willing to do your research and be patient, youd probably do it right for less then a grand including all the little things you may not have thought of yet eg - gaskets for exhaust etc, water pump, oils for gearbox and engine, leads perhaps etc. Research is the key. If your patient, after deciding what you want and sticking with it, set yourself a price and check the for sale section here on rollaclub daily. A bargain will come along.
  11. Cheers mate. Just checked out Marty's car and it was exactly what I was looking for. Reason for me wanting an undercar tank as apposed to in the boot is the car will be used as a daily driver for both me and the miss's. don't want to have to worry about anything damaging the lines/tank pumps etc and a ke30 boot is fairly small as is. cheers
  12. Ive been racking my brain on how id go about fitting and undercar surge tank in my ke30. I vaguely remember seeing build threads hear on rollaclub where guys had custom ones made up but after searching, I can't seem to find em. From memory they where kinda rectangular shaped that hugged the tire well but I can't honestly remember. If anyone owns or knows of these cars, could you give us a link to the build threads or any other info (based on personal experience) would be appreciated. I really don't want to put a surge tank in the boot.
  13. there is a ke30 and a ke55 at centre road wreakers both of which have uncracked dash's. Both have very slight imperfections, check it out for yourself.
  14. I bought an AE71 xmember because I was thinking along similar lines (only my intentions are 4AGE into KE30 hence AE71 xmember) Anywho's from memory the AE71 was approx 30mm too wide and the distance between left and right side LCA holes is greater on the AE71 xmember. Obviously with welding and cutting the xmember could be made to fit but its certainly not a direct bolt in. Ill probably be shot for this but I think the only difference between the AE71 and KE70 xmembers is that the engine mount towers on the ae71 are further spaced apart but don't take my word for it.
  15. Hi Ben, Guy around the corner will machine both discs for $20. Bendix pads any good, Burson's quoted $93. cheers Jason
  16. Thank you all for the tips. Site never ceases to amaze me, always learning something.
  17. thanks for the replies. I just checked supercheap site and they sell the antisqueak stuff so Ill pick up a bottle tomorrow. Ive also got some 400 grit paper in the shed too so I might give the pads a once over aswell. cheers Jason
  18. car = AE101 Inspection = approx 80% left on the front disc pads and about 50% left on the rear shoes. Drums have lite scouring as to be expected and so do the front discs but less then the drums. The front discs have plenty of life in them, like they've never been machined. I'm no expert, just my observation looking at the thickness. The squeaking isnt constant with every touch of the brakes, its intermittent. Always happens when leaving the driveway in the morning. I'm convinced its coming from the front brakes. Happens mostly when coming to a complete stop at traffic lights etc(say slowing from 20 - 0 kms). The car came to me threw good ole mum who had it serviced regularly. Could it be that garages would just use the cheapest pads they can get?( is that a dumbarse question or what ) Are there magor differences between pad brands compound wise/performance at the lower end of the market? Who gives a shit and do worry about it? Any brake experts in thu house?
  19. reason is removing everything from a 4door into a 2door. Yes, referring to the wiper motor arms. Got plenty of leverage, just can't crack the seal on the 24mm nuts. Will try DW40 and leave overnight. Probably better off just cutting the damn things out with an angle grinder and going from there seeing as the 4door will be scrapped. thanks for replies
  20. KE30. Would really like to know if anyone has any tips on how to remove the wiper control/arm/mechanism (inside the body at the top of the firewall) . Ive tries WD40 and degreaser to loosen the 24mm nuts but I can't seem to work out how to remove them without bending the actual car body (vented area between the bonnet and windscreen.
  21. 4AGE. I was looking on http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ and noticed that the end plates between motor& gearbox is different between front and rear wheel drive set ups. I have a complete AE82 twincam that Ill be taking the engine out of and bolting to a jap T50. Questions - 1. Will I need an engine end plate from either an AE86 or AE71. 2. Will I also need the 2 gearbox to engine mounts from the AE86 or AE71?
  22. I actually ended up buying TA22 celica steering arms. The celica arms have the adjustable stopper like the ke30. From memory they measure 85mm, I'm not sure if they'll fit as I havent got the struts yet. When cash permits Ill just buy hub/struts/callipers in 1 hit as complete units form an 86 and take it from there.
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