Killar_of_giants

Nice work mate.

Against my better judgement I bought this twincam. Been looking for a nice one for months but I couldnt find one here in Brisbane. I was sold on the fact that it had all its A/C gear even though its not working. Also ive seen a few lately and all needed work. After getting it home and up on car stands I realized that it was totally rooted and that I should get rid of it asap. I already have a KE30 project. My AE101 daily is getting old but Its still rego'd so after thinking it over for some time I decided to keep the AE82 and fix it. I'm hoping to get it back to pretty much stock but lowered with nice wheels and suspension improvements. I want to paint my KE30. Ill paint the AE82 first for practice. Ive written out a quick list with about 25 things so far that need attention. Drivers side front caliper was loose, one bolt was only screwed in half way. Id say the person who had the car before me simply forgot to tighten it when working on the car. The drivers side front sway bar bracket isnt done up tight. On quick inspection I think someone has threaded the bolt. I'm pretty sure there's suppose to be bushes on the back bolts that bolt the engine crossmember to the car. Because of these things Ill have to go over the whole car and check everything. Unfortunately for me someone put a pod filter in it aswell, on the hunt for a stock airbox. First up was oil leaks. I pulled the drive shafts out, checked them and decided to replace the boots for now. They had a small amount of play, but not too bad. Got the 4 boots from repco for $45. I also replaced both gearbox drive shaft seals as one was leaking pretty bad. There where pretty bad gouges in the gearbox lip where the seal goes on both sides. Id Say someone has done this removing the seals with a screwdriver. Ive always used screwdrivers, just been extra careful. I used a little bit of sealent, just where the gouges where before putting in the new seals. Was leaking oil from the distributor. Decided Id replace the o-ring, shaft seal and bearing. Bought the parts from CBC bearings. Glad I bought all the parts because It wasnt until I pulled it all apart that I found the seal was brittle and broken and the bearing was notchy. I followed a guide on Toymods to do it. Another leak from the hose that goes between the rocker cover and inlet manifold. Had this thing attached to it. Looks like some sort of oil catch but there wasn't any sort of container connected underneath to catch oil. Removed it and used the standard PVC hose. There was gunk in the rocker cover barb and inlet manifold barb. Used a drill bit to pull out what I could. Removed the air intake pipe from the manifold and sprayed threw the barb with DW40. De-greased the engine bay. Driven it around the block a couple of times and its sat in the garage for a couple of days now, no more oil leaks. Bought new front wheel bearings. I need to buy new front and rear rotors and pads so will do the bearings then. The steering rack boots are split. The rack is leaking fluid but I'm not sure how bad yet. Ill need to inspect the rack and tie rod ends too. I don't know anything about power steering so something new to learn. Looks like the KE30 wont be getting much love for a while.

So you've definatley got the same flasher as the one in the link? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/13434-wtb-flasher-unit-for-ke36-panel-van/ I don't know if you can still buy originals from Toyota. I'm guessing they would be pretty pricey if still available. I very much doubt you'd be able to buy an aftermarket one but you never know. I used 2 Tridon 'HD13' and 2 fuses. I didnt want to cut the original loom at the time, I retained the socket. I also bent the yellow spade connecters a litttle so they wouldnt work loose from the connector.

Sort this out yet? Ive had similar issues. This is what I did. wiring diagram. disconnect flasher using a multimetre, read the voltage on the appropiate wires with blinker switch dis-engaged/engaged. Disconnected battery, resistence check on flasher/blinker wiring including cobination switch to eliminate dodgy wiring/bad connections. checked globes and sockets. Made sure sockets wherent corroded/rusty with possible shorts. Cleaned them anyway, light spray with WD40, wiped away excess. Checked them afterwards with multimetre. Replaced iffy globes. I have an early KE30. My flasher unit was the same one at the top of the this page http://www.rollaclub...ke36-panel-van/ I tested it on the bench with a 12v power supply and globe. There are 2 relay/flashes contained within. I resolderd all joints , replaced the caps, still didnt work. From memory I think there is a varister inside, perhaps that was stuffed. Who knows. Couldnt get it to work and I opted for using 2 tridon flashes. I checked the tridon website diagrams before purchasing as there are a couple of different types, depends on application.

Did this car have smoked tail lights? Your right about them being scarse, Ive been looking for one for a while now. Anywhos Ill be following to see how she progesses.

Thanks for all the replies. I didnt receive notifications to replies for some reason. Anyways heaps of info here to help me on my way, much appreciated.

Does anyone have a build thread showing how they hid the wiring in there KE corolla. Or anyone know how to bring wiring out of the cabin of the car to run it up in the top channel under the front guard. I ran wires along the passenger chassis for a reason not knowing that extractors produced so much heat. I had the extractors black ceramic coated but heat reduction was minimal, at least they'll last longer. Just when I thought I was finished the damn wiring :no2:

Very nice. The more 25's I see the more I want one but unfortunately its not going to happen. Ill watch on drooling with jealousy.

Was hoping someone could help me with a couple of questions regarding wiring a 4AGE into early KE30 2 door sedan. I'm primarily using the AE82 schematic. Its not 100% accurate but after studying the FX-16 diagram and ditching the AE82 relay fuse box I'm nearly there. 1. KE30 Ignition barrel is single poll where as all the 4AGE wiring diagrams I have show duel pole, AM1 and AM2. Ive used a relay from the AM1/ IGN1 to switch in the AM2/IGN2 power with 30amp fuse at the fuse link box at the battery. Is this how its usually done? I couldn't find any info. 2. How do I wire for 2 pumps ( LP and HP ). Can I use 2 relays latched parallel by the COR (blue/black wire.) Lift pump is a facet rated 1.6 amps and the bosch 070 max draw is 6.5 from memory. Was thinking I shouldn't connect 2 pumps to the COR, might damage the ECU? If I use 2 relays I could use power from the battery. Fuse something like 7.5 amp fuse for the facet and 10 amp fuse for the HP. 3. There is a large red wire connected to the headlight relay behind the battery. I think this wire was connected to the 3K alternator from memory. Is it simply 12V taken from the battery. If yes do I connect it after the 80amp fuse at the battery fuse box link (AM1)

If your talking stock ones they can be purchased from Toyota. I bought a set for my KE30 about 3 months ago. I think they cost around $22 each. They take 2 weeks to come from Japan.

Yeah Ive done an autocad drawing similar to MartyK's surgetank. Just wanted to make sure everything will fit before I get it made up. Thanks everyone for the replies, appreciated.

Another dumb question I'm sure but I have to ask. Car is KE30. Is it a bad idea to move the mid mounting point of the handbrake cable. Reason is I want to put a surge tank and fuel pump under the car ( I really don't want it in the boot ). Looks like the cable wont be a problem with the leaf spring travel and chassis rail. Id use a 15mm standoff to keep the cable off the floor. I'm limited as to where to put the pump and this seems like the only solution. Photos better explain stock change to

cheers Gavin

But can it take the heat? I don't know. As I said, its 'looks' to be made of the same material as the exhaust like on the 3k. Is there something I'm missing? This is it after I cut it.

Hi Taz. The small sheet I bought looks to be made of the same material as exhaust gasket. 100mm x 150mm. From memory I think it should be big enough.

Thanks for the offer but all sorted now. Found out that repco sell small sheets of the gasket material. don't know why they didnt tell me that in the first place. cheers.

nevermind

Anyone know where I can get one? Bursons and Repco don't stock them.

Hi Mick, heres some usful info http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/38573-tie-rodtubeke70ke3x5x-faq/

Took these pics about a month ago again in Thailand. What da!!

Thought Id update this incase another noob like me has similar issues. Bought a T50 shifter kit from AJPS a while back, fitted it today. Took a pic of the old seat, as you can see it was rooted. Obviously shifts so much better now, thanks again for your help.

Thanks for the replies, shouldnt be too hard to find some sort of plastic blanks to put in there.

KE30 early dash. I know theres suppose to be atleast one switch here. There is no demister on the rear screen so I'm guessing its not that. From memory the square hole had some sort of orange lamp? Please humiliate me by telling me whats missing. cheers

Been following this one since near the beginning. Always eager to see more.

I took these photos on the streets of Thailand in 2011 with the intent to post em on Rollaclub. This station wagon was sitting 10 metres from the Thai/Burmese border so I couldn't get any more photo's. Military dudes with guns kinda freaked me out. Never seen one of these before and wouldnt know what model it is. KE70 with a differant front end? Shame I could photograph the back end. I'm not a fan of Datto's but this one was pretty cool looking. Was in very good condition inside and out . Photo didnt do it justice with all the shit that had fallen on it fallen from the tree it was sitting under. Going back soon, Ill try and get more pics of Rollas.