rb20 rolla

mate that is just about where mine sits maybe about 2 inches back more it is going to be the front of the engine where the problem will be engine to radiator clearance making a balancer so i had room for the radiator it was one of the hardest things to do in the build the radiator is a S13 silvia ca18 one straight of the shelf you can buy them on e bay for $275..

hi mate just want to go dragracing..

sorry mate the shifter came through where the auto one is right in the middle. when i do the coilover bit i will show you how my brakes where made and if anyone cares an rb 20/25/26/30 are all the same lenght just different bore and stroke combo's from what i can tell so i can't see why i can't do a rb30 with a 25 head later if i want. I WANT.......

hi catspew i have lost the sd card that i had with the photos of the build on if i find it i will post them maybe these will help a little bit for now. my weldings not the best looking but the engineer was more happy that i modified the standard tunnel rather then cut the hole thing out and weld a new one in as you can see from the photos they are just plates welded over the holes left from when i cut the two lines down the side of the tunnel. at the back you can see i had to cut into the u shape bit of metal and it is the same one that your seats bolt to. just remember that if you cut anything it must be renforced just as good as it was or better and always overlap your sheet metal that you use and weld it on both sides if you can. as for the shifter it sat in a good position the trick is to turn the shifter around 180 an it sits on a forward leen and a good position. i plan to have the car on a hoist soon and i will take some more photos of under the car around the box and tunnel hope this helps for now mate if you have any more just ask.

hi just more pics if anyone has any questions i will be happy to answer them when i can. i am trying to make it a sleeper do you think i am getting there.

more info the tunnel i only had to mod the front around the bellhousing i cut a u cut in the top of the tunnel then two lines down the side then take a hammer and go crazy then put the motor in and out till it fits. the back of the tunnel has to be cut where the shifter comes through the tunnel and around the back of the box. as you can see from the photo the middle section is still factory just lightly hit with a hammer.you can't do this in a early model corolla without cutting the fire wall unless you move your radiator.next the radiator clearance to the balancer witch i had to custom make just to drive a single belt as these come with three belt drives took me all day to make it. the ke70 ae71 has more room because of the 4a motor thats why it fits so good. was going to go a 4age 20v on nos but i want an auto with a big converter an the 4a auto boxes are not that strong.then i was going to go ca18 but frount cuts are going up in price so i looked at the rb20 cheaper more power good auto options and the fact a mate said it would not fit so that made me want to do it more should of seen his face when he heard me coming up his street 2 months after he said it can't be done. steering is heavy but not to bad once i fitted the coilovers with a locker the steering was a joke way to heavy could't drive it one handed but in a straight line.got a LSD from a mates hilux for 250 bucks made the hand brake cables my self.if i had to do it again i would use a 3 speed jatco box it would fit with minor firewall mods the manual fits better than the auto in width manual was a drivers car anyone could jump in and drive it no worrys but the auto can do the best burnout.

more run down and pics got the car 6 years ago off a old lady who lost her licence when she turned 80 and failed the re test you have to do when you turn 80 it had 104000km on it cost me $1900 bucks it would use 10 litres of fuel for 100km after the swap as a manual the rb20 would use 10 litres per 100km when driving easy and about 10 litres per 40km flat out. got a engine and box com,wiring harness,airflow meter every thing to run for $1750 diff cost me $1650 and the brakes were $1200 coilovers were $1200 radiator was $400 the engineers certificate was $880 everything else i had lying around took me 3 weeks to have the 4k out the rb in and running all by my self in my xmas holidays. so it can be done it is not that hard you just have to have a go the three main tools i used was an ebay mig welder $400 a cheap angle grinder about 100 cutting disks and a hammer used about 5kgs of welding wire. PS. tailsharft $500 the intercooler and pipe was $400 the auto was the dearest of them all not telling on that one but you don't need a full house auto. by the way the fuel is 60kms for 10 litres with the 5000rpm stall driving easy.

my first post said no good with that much weight but after i have got my coilovers setup better it's not that bad but power steering would help.

no good vidz yet just photos i will post more when i work out how to reduce there size better

more info and pics car was 900kg when i started and 1120kg when i finished as a manual raced it at wisd ran a 13.5@102mph dead standed just a pod filter 14psi no tune 2.5inch exhaust car is 1250kg with me in it auto is new got a to4e nistune an airfolw meter an a set off injectors on the way so i will let you know what happens when i get them together best mod brakes and the coilover don't be cheap in these departments well worth the money

hi guys just thought you may like to have a look a my rb20 ke70 its been on the road for about 4 years now an iam still working on it i will give you a fast run down r32 rb20 vl turbo full manual auto 5000 stall hilux diff bc racing coilovers 300mm rotors 4 piston calipers std computer 14psi i will post more info later thanks the new guy.