rb20 rolla

i have a 420c but i have not tuned my car yet so i can't give an opinon on it. if you are running one how does it run i ask because i do not know anyone running one and just want to know how they run..

microtech when tunned right is just as good as haltech if you are going to throw that much money at a haltech throw in a few more hundred and get your self a motec ecu if you want to save money go microtech, adaptronic . when i took my car to the RTA to have an emissions test done i asked the tester if he had seen an aftermarket ecu pass he said the only one i know of is two cars with microtech so it is all in the tunning..if you need more info..http://www.microtechefi.com/microtech-products.php?product_id=6

sorry i can't help with more photos at the moment mate but if you want to go the rb20 i will help out where i can. if you want my opinon i would go a ca18det i think this is one of the best all round combos for a turbo ke70. if you are after losts of power go an sr or rb but a good street track combo is the ca18 i put one in a 1200 ute for a mate and it was faster than my rb 70 and they are good on fuel.

i lost all the photos of the build after my laptop crashed and i had not one thing backed up the photos that are on this site are all i had left on my phone and camera. looks like the box has to come out oil pump started making a mad noise so that means the motor has to come out and if so i can post photos for you. got my self a new turbo so if the box holds out i will get some photos of it when i get the exhaust done got my self an adaptronic ecu and an 38mm wastegate so hope we see 250kwatw should be fun to drive. PS if anyone wants to know my brake master cylinder is a r32 gtr one and it bolted straight on and a little rebend of the lines and they went straight in they feel great with the standed booster..

if you want to go around corners fast go the 4age if you want to go in a straight line go the 6 i am making 130kw at the wheels with a stock rb20 and a little more boost then standard. with the coilovers 8kgs in the front and 6kgs in the rear it is a dream to drive around you just can't push it heaps hard around corners the thing trys to fight you real hard..i have seen one in zoom mag with no firewall mods the 1g looks smaller then an rb.

can't help with a stock time but i saw a ke20 at the old dragway run a 15.2 over ten years ago with a 5k good time for a n/a 4 banger..

ba xr6 turbo garrett GT42R 30 psi lets keep going..in zoom mag they had a rb20 with an rb26 throttle body set up and it lost a heap of torque..

the rb20 in the front of my 70 is 30kgs heavier than a gen 3 and when i push it hard into a corner well it is like driving a frozen hotdog across a oiled up hot plate. also the price of the carby's over the factory computer you would have to go the computer cheap and easy..

don't know about the gears what about smaller diamatar tyre as a fast fix how tall are you running now..

in the photos it looks like the strut is welded to the stub axle but it is not i just didn't grind back the weld run in nsw you are not aloud to weld to a cast part it is welded to the bottom of the strut tube sleeve realy close i don't know the rules for other states so don't weld the stub axle untill you find out the law in your state that go's for every mod you do to your car.....

some photos of the coilovers and brakes they are ae86 coilovers all round the rear are not coilover but they have the same amount of adjustment... i was told they bolt straight in an they did but the strut tube has to be welded and a ke70 strut tube is 45mm and a the coilovers for a ae86 are 50mm so i had to make a sleeve up so having ae86 struts will help out...the brakes are bmw 7 series 300mm rotors with skyline 4 piston calipers..

i think keeping it a single cam would take the height down around the cam area it is about 20mm from cam cover to the bonnet..

i had to go to 16s because the brakes are so big but i had them on before the brakes where on and gotta say it drove heaps better with the 205/40/16s and still went ok with the 4k but you could notice it went slower.. had 165/65/13s before..

i would just cut the bonnet if it needed i would say that just the longer stroke of the rb30 would be the only different. so i can't see it being to much of a problem i would do what it takes to fit a rb30 just about everyone wants more cubes...

just a little tap with a hammer to clear the radiator but i can't fit a strut brace its heaps close around the timing belt cover..

thanks matt the rb20 is just about on the limit now for room....

this is the engine mounts i have used on a ke55 with a 2t they are valiant straight 6 mounts so if all corollas are the same in the mount area all you have to do is bolt them up no mods just use the small one in the picture i think it is the drivers side one from what i can remember on both sides i paid $30 for each brand new years ago don't know how much it would cost to ship them to norway but it is the easy way of doing the change i can't remember to much more but i think i had to change the tail sharft but i don't remember any more then that hope i helped... i have found the one i used just go hear they are $55 have a look and see if it can help with what you need to do .... http://www.valiantspares.com.au/index.php?...products_id=659 turns out it is a v8 engine mount...

i wrote this as a list but when i uploaded it it turned out like that so sorry if any one can tell me what i am doing wrong thanks....

for people in nsw as far as i know these are still right cars up to 1100kg normally aspirated force fed in mililitres original mass x 3.0 in mililtres x 2.5 for cars over 1100kgs normally aspirated force fed in mililitres weight x 4.82 in mililitres x 4.0 in cubic inches x 0.294 in cubic inches x 0.244 it is easy to do EG. a ke70s weight is 900kgs and you want to know the biggest normally aspirated motor you can use just x the weight of the car 900x3.0=2700ml 2.7 litres for force fed 900x2.5=2250ml 2.2litres an engineer should let you round up to the higher 2.3litres if he feels like it so i hope this helps anyone in nsw thank you....

beerhead is right you need an afthermarket computer to run a multi coil setup and you will need a custom crank angle sensor this can cost up to $3000 plus just to buy and fit it then tune it and more. that delco computer when setup right is better then any aftermarket ecu around like i said just give john a call at V.T.A tune a call just talk to him he is one of the best around he has being tuning these computers from the mid to late 90s.... i think the kalmaker system can be tuned in real time then the program from it is burnt to a new chip then just put the new chip in your computer and off you go..

thats off it's bananna that turbo would inhale people standing on the side of the road.......

hi ke20rollin you are in luck i know a engine tuner who specialises in this area he has a fj20 808 mazda with the same computer and he has another engine tuner who has a 3tgte running the delco system. i spoke to him this morning he asked if you have a DLSL plug in the harness if so he is quiet happy to do a full datalog scan and tell you exactly what is wrong and if you want him to fix. he located in south sydney if that helps. hear is his web site it is mostly gen 3 stuff on the web site but his number is on there and he is quiet happy to talk to anyone who needs help. http://www.vtatune.com/ and as for the coil thing one coil will only run 4 plugs 2 coils will run 8 plugs it is better to run a single coil as it is so easy to blow up the motor with the second trailing plug firing at the wrong time from what i was told this is the main reason these motors blow up. do you know if the computer is a kalmaker system or a chiped standard computer he has software to do both anyway thanks... PS if you don't have a DLSL plug in the harness it is easy to wire one you can use one from a v6 commy should be able to pick one up for $5 -$10.....

thanks for that trev i will have to look better next time still new and learning and what a weapon..

hi guys has anyone used one of these motors in a ke70 from what i can remember you can get a 2.7L motor approved in nsw in a ke70/ae71. i know a 4age 20v will make 120kw and a 3rz-fe will make 112kw but that is at 4800rpm and the 4age silvertop makes its power at 7200rpm so a good intake system a set of cams and the fact the gearbox is almost unbreakable you would have a tuff street car that was still cheap to build. why i ask is i was offered a complete runing drive line for stuff all and i am thinking of buying another ke70 to drive to work in. any help would be nice thanks..

you are right on the money dropz