rb20 rolla

hi guys i have done a search on hear for this web site and there parts and found nothing so i thought you guys might like it. they have some of the best parts i have ever seen for a 4k/5k. there is a photo of a motor on there but no info on it so if anyone know's the output can you please post it. it looks like it would give an 150E a good run for it's money and it has a meen look so just thought the 4k/5k fans might like it thanks.. http://www.esapeltonen.fi/toyotaenglish.htm

according to the national code of practice a 900kg ke70 can have a 3600cc engine in n/a form v6's allround anyone. i also read a ford falcon with a weight of 1557kg can have a n/a motor of 7785cc,7.8litres but a force fed set up is only 4671cc , 4.7litres i guess they are getting tuff with big horsepower cars and they don't want them on the street not good people not good at all... still can't work out weather you can have coilovers or you can't , i will have to have another read..

not going to run a strut brace but i did think of doing it that way so thanks. had the box fixed the pump was sucking air and making a funny noise, so happy i don't have to pull the motor out.. got a funny story for ya, brought a copy of zoom magazine and it came with two other mags so i didn't take much notice of the older ones they sat around for a few weeks before i had a read of them. got the shock of my life when i saw the old girl in issue 138 of zoom mag 3 pages from the back, mates had there cars out there on the same night big dollar cars and then the old girl comes along and steels the spot light funny funny stuff...

if you beef it up a bit it should hold 250hp i was going this way at first but my gearbox guy said that's about it and i wanted one to hold more then that. as for the box bolting up if the mannal ones do then the auto one should, you just have to see if the flex plate and converter from a fwd are the same bolt patten as a rwd one..

thanks mate the first set of tyres i had on here lasted about 3 months because of to much camber but the thing was shit house to drive. that was with standard shocks and heavy duty springs.

all reddy on it mate when i can save the money i will buy a plazmaman one $1000 so just have to weight until then..

in this photo you can see how close it is for room under there. this is why i can not fit a strut brace.

it is a top mount one and will clear the strut tower easy it is just about to hit the bonnet. i am thinking of using the standard one first because i need the trottle body to face forward as the turbo sits right where the in let pipe is. catspew are you still thinking about it ?. i have just got the thing handling alot better and it is not as bad as i thought..

had one 6 months ago just about gave it away it is only now that i think i should have keeped it and the brakes aswell..

thanks for that do you know if a cressidas came out with 3.9s mate wants some for his hilux.

hope you get that 10 and just want to know are the 4.3s from a hilux or something else thank you.

i can adjust the camber 5 degrees each way do you think i should try a bit more negative camber. i might sound a bit dumb in this area and that is because i am this is the first car that i have ever done this sort of setup on. every car i have owned has had a set of 90/10 in the front with standard springs so this all new to me. i refuse to pay some one to do something i can do myself with a bit of help so thank you..

some pics of the car after i lowered it. corners good now but still rides good and i still want more so i will try a set of sway bars and see how that go's. next on the cards is a turbo upgrade i will take some pics when i upgrade.

yeah stock lower control arms it has camber ajustment but it is still where it was when i brought them at 0 when i lowered the car yesterday you can see the camber has gone for allmost a positive look to a negative look and i would say this is why it is cornering better. i was told a front sway bar is what i need and not to run a rear one but i have people telling me two different storys so i think trying the cheap rear one first might be the go..

thanks mate for the info i will look into it.

bc racing coilovers all round 30 way damper control 8kg springs in the front 6kgs in the rear.

thats what i want to hear thanks heaps mate..

hi guys are sway bars worth the price and do they help. i have just lowered the old girl 2 inchs in the front and 1 1/2 inchs in the rear and the thing is so much better to drive it corners like the rb20 is not there but i still feel there is more in it. a friend said to try a sway bar but i have never driven a car that has had a sway bar upgrade or done an upgrade on a car my self so i have no idea if it will help with the weight when i corner. any help would be nice thanks..

just for looks i want a 295-305/50/15 for the street 24.5x8 slick for the strip going to buy a set of convo pros i just want to see what one would look like and how it is done. got a problem with the front can't fit 15 inch rims over my calipers so have to down size them got a set of vt twin piston ones should of used them in the first place..

first place i looked no good photos from under the back of the car i see they are running a 26x8 slick but don't know if it has been minitubbed..

has anyone seen a minitubbed ke70 i have been looking on the internet for a few weeks and can't find any info or photos if anyone has photos of the rear end of a minitubbed ke70 could you post them please i would owe you one thank you..

the rb is very heavy i only want to go in a straight line so the ca will handle alot better...

thank you mate i spoke to andy a few years back an it was the knock sensor feature that got me..

sorry didn't know about that when i had mine done my car was all reddy at op temp and over heated at the end of the test.. test was in NSW..

the test is not done when the engine is cold.