rollalicious

As much as I would like to help, year 12 says NO. The wax is to prep the mould (kind of polishes, obviously the smoother the better, and has a film) and yes the PVA can be used as well but (to cover my ass test it first on small area as different brands could be different) so the manufacturers advice was about as good as mine :rolls: This is all on you tube step by step. ^^testing on small area is always true, digital scales are good for mixing accurately, or syringes, and use masking tape to give you a nice area to ply it out of the mould (again covered on you tube) If all fails which is highly unlikely get out the heat gun and it will soften- but again it depends on brands and type because some cure with heat!! Anyone in the field has there one brand which they swear by and trust, but you have to do a combined amount of things wrong to mess it up :y: Hope that was a little helpful

I've got a cap sleeved with a bike tube which is nice and snug and still looks the goods, and a spare 3k there as well, with the time I spent doing the rounds looking for a cap I could of changed rocker covers :laff: like I said it's more of a curiosity now because all the parts manuals (4 seperate stores & wreckers) said a ke30, 3k is a screw in type. btw the only time repco has failed me :hmm:

Cheers guys, It was the ballast resistor and repco + $4 fixed everything. :y: It's more of a curiosity now, but does anyone know the deal with the oil caps screw in compared to push in? what models etc

ballast resistor eh.. gold star :dance: I shal give that a go ( i like how google sais they weren't used after 1975). thankyou

THANKYOU in advance, one day I might be able to return the favour. So I own a 78 ke30 corolla with 3k-c engine. My oil cap disappeared. it was round in shape and the push in type (rubber) According to every parts manual & toyota themselves, a 78 corolla is meant to have the screw in type with hand grips on it. Which was confirmed when I went to the wreckers and the ke30 had that exact screw in type. -What is the go, and what can I use to replace it other than the sleeved replacement I made (auto stores don't have anything big enough) The second part is when it disappeared it sprayed oil everywhere, therefore leaving my oil empty, and now my engine wont stay on unless I hold the key halfway between the starter motor and on- my thinking was this was some sort of safety thing so the engine won't blow? but It has the same problem since I filled the oil. I find it hard to believe they aren't related since it only happened straight afterwards and I have never had electric issues, but hey stranger things have happened. THANKYOU (I'll ask another mechanic but the apprentice gave me a blank look and I can't bring the car in)

Nice build! I'm in Bairnsdale, saw that you were in Gippsland. Just saw your request for fibreglass info etc a couple of pages back. Frecheville Heaney Boatbuilders in Paynesville is by far the cheapest you will find (trade prices), its 10 minute drive for me but I have no idea exactly where you are. I have some experience depending where you are. or can put some advice up on traps

Name: Car: 1978 ke 30cs 140,000kms owned by grandma for 20 years Motor & Driveline: 3kc, new clutch and 4 speed :'( needs a better clean but is a very neat bay (nothing exciting happening yet, probs cam, carb and extractors when suitable products found. Suspension & Brakes: All standard soon to have the usual treatment of cheapest most effective lowering & brakes ITS SOO HIGH AT THE MOMENT! Wheels & Tyres: Stockies with chrome trims Interior: yucky disgusting cloth on seats, leather door trims, new boss kit for steering wheel but yet to decide on wheel, no cracks in dash & clarion head unit with 6x9s in rear custom parcel shelf Body: lots of little dings & yet to be polished, but is RUST FREE except for some tiny pins in the front right guard and all chrome is excellent Other: 3 weeks i've had it. First car i've owned passed rwc with no mods and cost $250 :D VERY limited time to do mods but i have the will Just keen on having a straight clean sensible car that brings all the bitches :P

so It's adjusted to earliest possible engagement now and made a big improvement for a little bit, but its back to its old tricks now.geez Haha its a one owner grandma car (met the 85 year old myself) 140,000kms and the two things on the way out when I bought it were the clutch & diff :hmm: I've had a look at the manual and yeah looks doable -I'm a bike mechanic and owning this car is only going to get cheaper the more I do. The tips & tricks are what I'm looking for as there is always an easier way that someone else has found :y:

So my ke30 is slipping whenever i put any sort of power into it but is still driveable, as compared to when i bought it 2 weeks ago and had a very late engage point but still fine. Assuming it's the clutch how much should I expect to pay for parts & fitment? Haha everything is completely stock but is their an improvement or special type to think about? Ignore the possibility that it could be out of adjustment for now :) THANKYOU

Yeah I will definitely be looking round for a suitable replacement, my clutch started slipping today :'( so a full driveline would be handy :D I was just hoping there would be an awesome trick to fixing it.

Nanna spec is definitely GOLD. two weeks into owning my car and the two biggest hits are the "custom" wood varnish shelf under the glovebox, and sheepeskin matt on the rear parcel shelf, both of which are courtesy of nan. I drew the line at having only an AM radio though.

yes that was my understanding, and it doesn't necessarily do it when I'm pushing it hard! just as likely to do it parking :/ nothing has been eliminated as of yet except that he checked the wheel bearings and should of done everything else but he wasn't my preferred guy so I will take that with a grain of salt plenty of people in town but a large expense anyway- Bearings wouldn't do anything as it is it's a 3k, not sure if i could handle a 4 yet :P cheers, any idea is a good one WELDER :D for now I'll just keep putting it on the stands and going through the bits when time allows. I found time to install the stereo (AM didn't do it for me)

Alrigth so I've had my 4 speed manual ke30 for two weeks now and its wonderful! except cornering! it makes this terrible sqeak/whine at pretty much every speed turning left. Sometimes it doesn't it depends on speed and revs not how hard i'm cornering, but last night after a wee bit of a floggin (I'm on my P's :) ) it did it every corner and straight line. I had been hoping that it would be a wheel bearing when i bought it but I'm 85% certain its all coming from the diff now, and my mechanic shares this view (bearings were checked-not sure how well), the advice being it will keep on going and just live with it, but every thing else on the car is perfect! First of all does everyone share my belief its the diff My options? -rebuild,replace,upgrade, service? obviously there will be someone knowing all suitable diffs and it written somewhere else multiple times but my trolling hasn't come up. would be keen on a 5 speed upgrade as well

O.K so, a good day with a car that cost less than expected :blinks: I got my roadworthy certificate with out doing a single repair, or spending any money on the car! :lolcry: This is my first car, I don't know what all the fuss is about :P

I drove my KE30 home from dandenong on the weekend, its blood orange/red and stock with no rust. Now located in Bairnsdale