Peter

No fook it's not in the 20. It is in the trailer waiting to go to brissy to go in the 20.

The walls of Jericho will be safe tonight, Not into cutting hole in bonnet (yet) Std plenum will suffice for the moment. 290 horses running loose in the top paddock will be enough to create more expense in the driveline area. Any bets on how long the old diff will hold up?

1uzfe check this out

I remember a little while ago some discussion which degenerated to the topic of whose was biggest ( and I believe Mel was somehow involved ? ) Well get ready to show what you got, and stand back when I unzip my fly. Yes boys and girls We are going to be converting to the sports sedan category. Rob may have two in his new car but we have four. OOOHHH AAAHHH GRUNT GRUNT :)

May I remind you that Ryan WAS leading the series with "home made" equipment. Point being that It's not what you spend but how you use it. This being said we are spending shitloads on rebuilding the engine!!!!!!!!

Sorry Rob, Maybe It's the Mid's, but I can't actually see what actuates the butterfly shaft. I see the return spring and the cable attachment but no linkage btw them and the butterfly shaft, is it hidden behind something in the photo?

Yes I hope it will surpass hal / ly berry, and as I read somewhere, some one said the 5K didn't have enough torque for burnouts, lookout.

Sorry mate, been off the scene for a while, how far have you got?

Why, Thank you Teddy I believe I,m honoured to see that I have made a valuable contribution to the corolla community with my varied, albeit inconsistent , input. All this being said as I suck down another mid.

Yes, believe it or not I,m still here. Unfortunately the 20 is undergoing major surgery atm. The result of the diamond slalom event oh so long ago was no's 1 & 3 big ends not being as sssmmmooooth as they should be.( I told him to go for 2nd gear) Result Crank grind While we are at it, Balance, nitrite, shot peening, chev rod bolts, boooore it, flat tops, and many dollars. Big port head and many more dollars. OOOHHH where will it end???????? Watch out rob I,m working on more crank.

It may take a little longer to remove but i would rather line up the spigot on the deck than crawling around under a car ( Either cold concrete or the attack of the killer bullants, aaarrrgghh)

I know that if you go to a parts dealer you can look through their catalogs and in particular Monroe have the specs listed in the back. The specs refer to the inserts body type, t1,t2,t3 etc You then look for an insert that will suit your application with the desired stroke etc. If it exists. Short of that go to some one like pedders and get them to order Konis or the like to suit your application. The next step would be to get your struts shortened to suit a particular shock.( the usual method if you are getting serious ) Then while you are at it get adjustable coil overs to suit. ( will probably then need new springs ) And then yaada yaada yaada. All up cost around $500 give or take a bit.

mmmmm, wonder how long it takes the guys who remove the import motors from jap cars. The wiring is usually cut through and the mounts hot axed off.

fook, please refer to original post I,m not talking glass plates and sepia tone but it was a while ago. They were a large format ' film' camera. and wash your mouth, run of the mill, pahh, thats like calling the red dwarf a ke30.

Just a thought, but what about a front wheel drive cable, possibly AE82 4ac , I'm sure It's the same ' carb' end but don't know about inside and length might be right.

How would they equate to the status quo in terms of resolution and quality. The RB I used was a terrific piece of equipment and versatile but that was 20 years ago. Sorry Tom, we have shot off at a tangent , but I think you should listen to what Fook and co have to say as I'm sure they are up to date on the new gear.

But from what I understand yours is not a standard ( easy ) job. Repetition kicks in for me. Jack the back of the car up really high, to get at rear uni and gearbox all in one hit, and mainly cause I can't get a jack under the front. Underneaths all done, pop out gear lever and start under bonnet. biggest pain is removing SU's to get to heat shield to get to manifolds. Oh, I didn't mention the time spent jawing and the lubrication.(deduct from 1 hour)

what about just making a new mount It looks as though you are at the end of your tether, whoops sorry, adjustment. possibly by a little remanufacturing of the bracket you will achieve what you want with very litle expense.

which limb would you give for one

What happened to all the rb67's and hasselblads, ripe for collectors no doubt.

Good one Doug, How about the more conventional method? Shit, Ryan and I dropped one out under and then lifted the front of the 10 up and walked it back off the engine/box.

Shit, thats pretty good Andrew I'll remember you when I have to do it again. I ( or should I say my back) remember doing it that way Nick (350 chevs) and then I got an engine lifter.

Yeah, why not. With or without mechanical assistance or lubrication.

Gawd I'm getting toooo used to removing corolla engines. extracted the tooth on the 20 yesterday and it took me all of 1 hour.( now what am I going to do for the rest of the day) Ahh, you think I had outside assistance from no. 1 son, no. 1 who? Whats your best time? Hot 186 from a HK in 20 minutes, and I mean Hot !!! Coppers chasing us through Carina, pulled into home and four of us got stuck into it and just finished as the coppers pulled into the yard (yeah they knew us). "Nah mate, couldn't have been me, the motor's not even in the car." I said, while suffering 3rd degree burns to the hands.

If you look around you will find companies that will make a cable to suit your needs. example, cable operated 4A-g clutch in a KE 10 ( removed slave cylinder and ran cable towards rear of car and then back to clutch fork) Can't remember price but I don't think it was expensive.