you_nes

Hmm..., that looks sort of similar to my ke3x cluster which has the 7v regulator hidden in the fuel gauge. you can tell by removing the gauge and looking for a bi-metal strip / resistor inside it. You can test it by temporarily feeding it 12v, be careful not to leave it on for too long though otherwise you might let the smoke out. from the look of your picture the top bolt on the left of the photo is +12v, the bottom bolt on the left is earth (check that these by tracing it back to the loom connector which you should be able to find a wiring diagram for as i'm not 100% sure!). When you hook those two up, use a multimeter between the middle bolt (7v) and earth to check if its outputting 7v. If its not then that's a problem. you should also be able to see the fuel gauge needle rise gradually all the way to full, if it doesn't rise or if it jumps to full in a nanosecond then that's also a problem (one that i don't know how to fix) If its broke you can cut the wire that feeds this part and replace with a 7808 reg (8v) like in my photo below. The only downside is that the gauges will be much slower to rise initially (that bimetal strip that you cut out is there to give 12v initially before tailing off to a constant 7v, your new setup wont do that) and your gauges will read slightly high (8v instead of 7v being supplied to the sender). The article I used as a guide to do this is here. ... http://holdenpaedia....tage_Regulator: (kingswoods and toranas have a similar set-up) P.S. the reg in your engine bay (or strapped to the alt) is probably fine. the item i'm referring to is a separate low power reg that takes the 12v that your alt is outputting (which fluctuates a bit with load) and drops it down to a lower constant voltage (so your gauges don't also fluctuate with load)

I've never seen the back of a ke2x cluster but the ke3x-5x has a voltage regulator exclusively for the fuel/temp senders, have seen 7 & 10v versions. when the 10 v one on my 55 died it did exactly what you described (fluctuated between 1-10 v) can be replaced with one from jaycar (some fiddling required). that will not fix your glowing charge light issue though, still haven't gotten tot he bottom of that one( I have the same issue). also the sender has to be matched with the cluster (i.e. if your cluster is supplying 10v to a 7v temp sender it will read high)

I know I'm digging up an old post but i found a little more out about this, might be common knowledge but it was new to me so thought i should share. for fuel level and water temp sensors; - Ke1X dash supplies unregulated 12v (whatever your alternator reg is supplying) - Ke3x (early) uses 7v regulated - ke5x (and late 3x?) uses 10v regulated Which is why the gauges will read funny if you mix the sensors up. Sensor needs to match the dash, not the engine. also why the gauges on a 1x tend to be a bit inconsistent as the voltage out of the reg will move a bit with rpm, lights etc. Unsure about Ke20 or 70?

is there a difference between the 3k - 4k - 5k sensors? I was thinking about this today as i have a similar problem to abbotts after swapping a ke70 4k into a ke16 (used the later thermostat/waterpump) will try swapping the old one back in (if it fits the later housing)

is it fouling by much? when I put my dragways on the 55 i had to take off about 2mm of material from the caliper (essentially the casting seam) to get it to clear. Seemed a bit dodgy at the time since it's the stiffening rib that you are taking the metal out of but it made no difference to pedal feel and 5 years of daily use later and things are still perfect.

This is sitting at centre road wreckers at the moment. No engine/box or brakes but good panels and bumpers and a M I N T (literally m.i.n.t coloured) interior in VGC. seems a waste.

Traction Tyres in Rowville, Widetread in Ferntree Gully and Edgars Tyrepower in Clayton are three that I have used for motorsport (ie when you are not just putting it back to factory spec) All are good.

torque is what you can feel and the stock 4ku makes (almost the same) peak torque 1000rpm lower (coincidentally very close to the rpm that it will turn at 100km/h in 4th in most ke's)

hard to start but runs well = too much ign advance easy to start but runs poor = too little ign advance either way get a timing light and dial it to 8-10deg at idle like GJM85 says. If, after that, it still runs like a dog then the mechanical advance is seized and you need to replace the distributor.

+1 for Terry's, He is making a roof lining for my KE16 as we speak.

well that probably rules out a vacuum problem then. Given that you have already adjusted float hight etc, I'd still check the ignition side of things, most of the time when there is a fault I can't find, its usually the damn electrons!

So its fine cold? then gets worse as it warms up? sounds a bit like the symptoms of a coil braking down, or bad points. Might pay to check over the ignition system before you pull the carb to bits.

pulled the box out today, found the problem. Problem was (and is) that the outer face of the pressure plate hits up against the little snout on the bellhousing where the clutch fork goes in, did a comparison between the KE10 K40 and the KE55 K40 and the snout extends further forward on the KE10 box (about 10mm) so i guess that 10's must have had either a thinner flywheel or lower profile clutch. can anyone confirm?

No, had a KE55 K40 hanging off the back

Hi all, Looking for advice as to any compatibility issues with bolting these two together (other than the different input spline on the box) My thought was that all you had to do was get a KE1X friction plate to deal with the spline issue, then bolt it all together using the rest of the parts from the KE55 Donor (Flywheel and pressure plate) but judging by how my engine no longer turns over with this set up, I would say my assumption was wrong! Where did I go wrong?