Rollin-Rolla

wasnt exactly sure where to post this just thought there would be a few of you that would find this fairly ridiculous. i found it quiet funny. http://www.sl666.net/cars/rolla/sink2.JPG i have no idea what would posses someone to perform such a mod.

hey guys, i know ive spoken before about my rolla and putting the SR into it, so i thought its time i should put some pics up, yesterday the engine mounts were completed. ill let the pics do the talking from here: first day i got my ke70, knocked on some ladies door and offered her $200, it had head problems. she was going to give it to a wrecker. How useful the standard motor has become. its still in the wheel burrow to this day The day i brought the SR home. The engine mounts.

in all honesty, CA18's are the gayest pieces of S*#t, well not the gayest but pretty bad. if you start to run power through them they have a tendency to blow up. The amount of aftermarket components available for a CA18 is also less, reason being is because all the companies know they are gay. 4age or ze would be a much better option. i know there may be a few people that think CA18's are good but there not. just from what ive seen and read about, they seem to blow up when they get any decent power put through them. and i know there is the odd occasional one exceeding expectations but that is a small amount. for their price they are almost worth it but then there is better out there for the same price anyway so its not. don't mean to upset anyone but thats my opinion, I'm sure there are a few that also agree with me.

lol. i never said it was going to be easy. he never mentioned what he wanted to do so i just threw some ideas out there. 1GGTE would be a good idea if he had alot of time money and effort. thats usually not the case tho. :P

i just did some researching and looking at my car. i found out that you don't cut that tube or use any part of that hole. below the old clutch cable hole and right next to the brake booster, you can see an indent of where the flange from the clutch master cylinder should be mounted. also inside the cabin you should see a diamond cut in the foam, which matches the flange shape. as you can see its mounted lower and thats exactly where it should go. if you think about it when you put your foot on the clutch the top of the clutch pulls ont he cable, but converting to hydraulic you need to push the cylinder in. so if you mount it through the cable hole it wont work. thats why the whole needs to be lower the pivot point so when your foot goes on the clutch it pushes it in. to those of you performing the conversion I'm sure it makes sense. on my ke70 there are no holes or anything provided so you still need to drill, and use a hole saw. hope this helps.

use the search tools provided. there would be pages of 4age conversions.

not sure about NSW regulations but I'm sure you guys would still have to go through engineers to get a certificate so its always a good thing to call them if you have any concerns about installing something that your unsure about, there is a fair bit you can get away with tho. I'm sure other people here that are from NSW can help you out more there. As for your conversion it really depends how much you wanna spend, i assume that by saying you want as little custom fabricatiing, you don't want to spend too much. depending what you like, but you could do a 4AGZE or 4AGE conversion. i prefer the sr20 turbo motor. it would be good to even see a 1GGTE in there. what were you thinking of doing with it aswell? daily driver/street drag?

so at the moment i am on the right track? i believe its another common misconception by people saying things bolt in from other cars firstly it was the RA60 struts which don't, and the AE71 clutch master also doesnt, but i don't see it being difficult to fit either. thanks for that man. ill keep an eye on the posts

Medicine man i got a question for you. i have my ke70 also and i got a t15 hydraulic clutch which is supposedly the same. and it actually does seem to fit in the tube where the clutch cable used to go through. my question is, did you also use this tube? its up and very slightly to the right of the brake booster. i realise you need to drill the screw thread wholes also. also do you have any photos cause i wish to perform my conversion and want to get it right to begin with. also i noticed the hole where the clutch cable used to go through is a bit smale and needs to be cut out more. this is how i plan to take it on, just wanted to make sure i was on the right track. does anything change pedal wise? apparently some clutch modifications need to be performed. i am unsure why tho, don't see it being a large problem. If anyone has any advice and has performed this conversion please post here aswell. if you have photos that would be great. thanks also on these photos the sill panel above the tube you can see it sticks out and is in the way of the bolt going in, has anyone else had this problem? if there is anything anyone can suggest let me know

yeh id agree with medicine man. I'm not doing the same engine conversion but i am doing a sr20det conversion and that still requires a clutch master cylinder to be installed. don't see why you would need to completely change the pedal box. you may have your reasoning but if its to do with the clutch master then you don't need to change it over. i actually just bought my clutch master today, itll fit easily just need to drill holes for it to bolt on.

HAHAHA. 3SGTE better than SR20DET. fair don't reckon.

yo marvis, just wanted to say nice tissue stash in the second draw lol. just messing with ya. who hasnt got a stash close by. never know when you need to blow your nose.

if you find one just check a few things to be safe so you know you don't need to do too much work. check for general leaks out rocker cover or head. remove oil cap and look under it and look inside, if you see any milky coloured liquid inside then runaway unless you want to replace head in near future or rip the entire motor out like i did and leave it in a wheel burrow, obviously with a plan to put in osmething better. just listen for any weird noises not that they matter, i currently own a daily, the gearbox is haggis, any slowing down with the gears makes loud whining sounds, but the car wont die as toyota know how to build cars. if someone claims the motor has had a rebuild or new head, check the seals you should be able to see bits of gasket glue, itll be a standing out colour like red or blue and thats how you should be able to tell its new. and just check body generally for rust. although for $500 you can't worry too much about rust. goodluck

seriously as people have said, its only a 3k motor, no point in doing it. probably the biggest waste of time since night shade on tail lights.

honestly id love to see pictures of that fitting. not saying its not possible, just alot of work involved. good luck :lock_folder: post some pics when you can.

cheers for that Beerhead, your post was actually really helpful. my plan now is to go with the corona struts and use the 4 pot hilux calipers. should be the cheapest option aswell as fairly effective. i just found it funny because ive read on other forums including toymods where people were saying RA60 struts do bolt in. clearly they don't without modification. Fat Bastards Customs, that is one awesome post you put up, its answered all my questions for the moment. i may require your service for the brake booster mod aswell. hope my conversion turns out just as good as yours.

Current status: it appears that anyone who believes RA60 struts bolt into ke70's would be incorrect. i just came from U-Pull-it and ran the test myself to make sure they fit before purchasing, and surprisingly they didnt :) . the problem was the top platform which the spring is surpressed by. because the platform needs to be so wide to hold the spring it hits the inside of the strut tower and wont allow the studs to come through. so I'm back to square one again. does anyone know of any struts that have larger brakes and bolt into the ke70? anyone that has done a larger brake conversion on their ke70, please post what conversion you did perform. any help on this topic would be appreciated

those lower control arms produce a fairly negative camber. looks pretty tuff. i assume its with standard struts tho? with RA60 struts the negative camber shouldnt be as much as that. yeh i heard that the AE71 had hydraulic clutches in them. i think that may be a go ahead. i need to check about the master cylinder and resleeving it. cheers for the advice so far guys. appreciated

so would i need to go custom with hydraulic clutch? ive heard that there are bolt ons but I'm unsure of which model cars are capable of such a conversion.

hey guys ive only written very few messages on here havent had the most amount of time to really chat. my name is Peter i live in Adelaide, and I'm 20. sorry if some of these have been posted before but from my searches i could not find specific details on these particular problems I'm currently having so all help from people that know ke70's really well would be greatful. my project is a 1983 ke70. Blacktop s13 sr20det sitting inside it at the moment all mounted up, not wired up yet. unfortunately ke70's didnt come with hydraulic clutch and i was wondering if there are any that bolt up into the ke70 to make it a hydraulic clutch? I also need to do a larger brake conversion and was wondering of any that bolt up. from research i have found that RA60 struts bolt in and the brakes are much larger and vented. but with the ke70 lower control arm you end up with a positive camber. now apparently by using a Sigma lower control arm it changes produces a -4 degree camber which should be pretty good. just wanted to know if anyone has performed this conversion before and can confirm it fits well? otherwise what have people done before that works? My main concern at the moment is installing the hydraulic clutch. so if anyone has any bolting up ideas please post them here for me. help is greatly appreciated. thanks. Cheers Pete

cheers for the extra info man. yeh i have seen that image before, thats a damn nice rolla. hopefully mine turns out like a clone. except for the umbrella supporting the bonnet.

cheers for that. some handy things ill need to consider before i really get stuck in. ill update on how it all goes once i find the sr I'm looking for. if anyone has anymore info or advice feel free to put it down, gives me things to consider.

i havent taken a look into diffs yet, but it wont be expensive to get one here second hand. getting the motor running (assuming there is nothing wrong with it) wont be hard at all. i know one guy and he can wire up an SR20 with his eyes close practically, does it for his job. any fabricating that will need to be performed can be done as well, as my mate has everything you need except a tig welder (so no alloy welding). so seriously there wont be any cash spent on paying someone to do it. I'm preparing myself though for the bastard of a gear box. yeh i was thinking that myself aswell, but i was wondering because its switches from nissan motor to the toyota speedo, so i was wondering does the stock cable fit with the nissan sender?

well the thing is I'm scrapping the engineers certificate. i know its not the wisest thing to do but i really don't want to pay $1500 for some tests. and if it does get defected i can always do a vin number change. i know how dodgy it all sounds, but it wont be an everyday car. insurance I'm only gonna get third party. yeh i was thinking front cut, although ill sus my options when i get the cash. cooling system wont be to much to worry, i have a friend who has tonnes of sr spares, all in all it should be a fairly good project. brake upgrade will also be done, but I'm not gonna go for the best but i will upgrade. I'm still in debate about what to do with the brakes as I'm still researching easy but good upgrades for them. don't forget i live in adelaide so getting an engineers certificate is much harder and more expensive than other states.

hey all, I'm Peter I'm live in adelaide and found you guys while searching for information on my conversion I'm getting underway. i have a KE70 which is in damn good condition and i bought for $200 dollars, the head on it was bung, it was leaking water into a cylinder. i just knocked on ladies door and offered her $200 and took it home. Anyway, i plan on performing the same conversion on my ke70 (putting in a s13 SR20DET). is there any other info people have on it, like engine mounts? do they line up at all, a bit of a stupid question, because I'm fairly sure they don't. i havent bought the sr yet in a month or so ill have it. it also sounds like there is a problem with the SR bell housing, and the electronic speedo. the one thing i came across as disturbing were the price values i was seeing posted. i reckon i could perform my conversion for about $6K no more than 7K with 200rwkW. my idea is to go with s13 sr20 ($2500, loom, computer, gearbox etc. ready for straight conversion) to scrap that crap vvt which is unnecessary (and alot of the price), buy brand new s15 turbo ($1300), get a chip for the s13 computer($200), get larger injectors($300), and run about 14psi, and it should pull of the desired amount of power i want. there will need to be some suspension changes and brake's but that shouldnt be all to difficult. also this will all be performed by me and a friend, we have all the equipment necessary so labour costs are pointless. i just want to know if there is anything you guys may think is wrong with the idea or what could be improved (despite the fact its a nissan motor :P ). anyway i hope i get some useful feedback aswell. i didnt want to create a new thread since this one here is directly related to the same thing. thanks People.