Hiro Protagonist
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Posts posted by Hiro Protagonist
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All K-series motors have alloy heads (which means they have hardened valve seats) thus are fine to run normal unleaded in. 95RON may be preferable since it is closer to what the old Super leaded was but it's not essential.
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Well, the old girl turned 400 earlier this year, and coming up on her 18th birthday she was really starting to act like most 18 year olds - insolent, lazy, and demanding money all the time. So, I did the maths on what would be needed to get her through the next 12 months to a state where I'd be happy and content with her again, and to say it was a small figure would be lying. In addition, even after all that work I'd still have a 400k+ car at the end of it.
So on and off over the last few months I've been trawling eBay and Gumtree on the faint hope that I could get a donor to swap over all the good bits and keep her spirit alive. Didn't think the odds were that great of scoring exactly what I wanted, since most old people don't need a big-block 1.8L manual to drive down to lawn bowls and the RSL every Saturday. Those that were out there were still in the high 200s, and I knew they would be in worse condition than what I've got at the moment (which is saying something).
To say I was surprised when I stumbled across what has been temporarily named "Charlene Mark II" is putting it lightly. September '98 build (so 11 months newer than Mark I), with an aftermarket towbar, but in every other way identical. Same model (AE102), same trim (Conquest), same colour (OKA Diamond White), exact same options (air-con, remote central locking, power mirrors, no ABS or airbag), one/two owner from new (husband and wife, compared to my dad and then me), even bought from THE SAME FREAKING DEALERSHIP.
Oh, and with only 161,000k on the clock. For those playing at home, that's 240,000k less than what Mark I has. For some cars (not Corollas), that is a lifetime. The price was a little high compared to others on the market, but the condition (excellent, barely a mark on the paint and one tiny dent on the bonnet), history (also excellent), compatability (almost impossible to get better) and mileage meant that I'd be an idiot not to snap it up (plus it had rego until October next year, whereas Charlene Mark I runs out a few days before Christmas).
So I did. And here she is. Only blemishes are some slightly oxidised alloy bits in the engine bay, a torn drivers seat (will be putting the Levin seats in) and a saggy headlining (which I'll replace with my professionally re-trimmed one). As bone stock as they come, still with original Fujistu Ten tape-deck, chrome exhaust tip (yes, Conquests came from the factory with a chrome exhaust tip), original uncracked Toyota headlight protectors, a spare wheel well that is whiter than my old exterior was, and a bottle of the original touch-up paint that was still liquid.
Plans are to live the stocko life over Christmas, and then take a few days off work in the new year to strip all the goodies off the old girl and have her spirit reborn in the new.
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Physically yes, as long as you get an exhaust to match (due to differences in the block deck height and the shape of the sump). You'll need the ECU as well and may have to do some extra wiring, as the 7A has a knock sensor whereas the 4A does not.
Personally considering the physical effort, and the fact that these cars are cheap, you're probably better off just buying an AE102 Conquest/RV for a couple of grand and swapping over from the 101 any mods that you've done.
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Hit up your local dealership and find out how much a genuine Toyota thermostat is, if it's not too much more than the Tridon I'd go for that, heard some stories about the Tridons not going the distance. No need for "high-flow" _anything_ on a stock 4AFE.
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~$50-60 will get you the Gregorys manual, you'll save that in labour costs on the very first home job you do, everything else is pure savings (and the Gregorys for this model is quite good compared to a lot of the others).
If you've ever poked a car with a spanner before then you probably wouldn't even need a manual for the thermostat change, everything is pretty much in plain sight and easy to get to.
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99% guarantee it's the thermostat, either stuck open or it has been removed. Easy job on a 4AFE and worth doing regardless.
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If it's just a CSi then it will be an AE101 with the 4AFE. But yes, the build plate on the firewall will tell you exactly.
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This shit.
http://www.gumtree.c...uot-/1092595651
I don't care that they probably bought it for $500 but 15k, c'mon.
For a supposedly $15k award-winning car that is a piss-weak amount of photos...
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400Rs are one of my favourite Skylines of all time, which is odd because I'm not a massive R33 fan otherwise
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Looks like a cross between an 86, a Daihatsu Copen and a Sports 800
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Idling 1000rpm cold or hot? If cold then that's way lower than what 4AGEs normally cold-idle at...
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Has anyone lowered their ae92 before, liftback in particular.The coilovers i bought have a bracket for the sway bar end link but the end link is not adjustable so the coilover basically has to sit at stock ride height to fit, just curious if anyone has found a way around this.
Are you trying to do only one side at a time? There shouldn't be an issue with the sway bar links not lining up as a lowered car is the same as a stock-height car heavily loaded, but if you're only doing one corner at a time then the rear suspension is being unevenly loaded and the sway bar would be trying to counteract that - if you jack the whole of the car up at the same time it will relieve the load on the sway bar and it should be easier to fit.
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Just wasted a 120 klm round trip to get some 15" corolla rims from a 2006 model ~ the PCD was only 100 ! When did that change from 114.3?
Changed to 4x100 back at the AE82 (only missed out by, like, 20 years), then went to 5x114.3 for the ZRE152 (and the ZRE182 sedan is 5x100 for some crazy reason)
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Presumably there was an AE112 that came with rear discs.
From memory the CSX, Levin and Ultima AE112s had rear discs, base-model Ascents and Conquests did not.
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I dare say a ke50 one would just be the same as 30/55.
You could get one of the alloy ones off Ebay and get the hose inlet/outlet repositioned. I can't remember where they are for t's.
The issue could be T-series versus K-series, are inlet/outlet positions the same?
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Hi there, I had recently purchased my first toyota...97 corolla 5 speed!! I see a lot of people posting about different models and engines. I don't know tge first thing about my new beater:) my question is how do I go about finding out which model corolla I have (cx, dx, etc.) And how do I determine which model and size of motor is in my beast...any help would be much appreciated!!
Whereabouts in the world are you? Australia doesn't have the LE/DX etc model designations like the US does, and our trim levels (CSi, Conquest, CSX etc) aren't direct comparisons either (all our 1.8L models have tacho and rear discs for instance where both are uncommon in the US)
Again, depending where in the world you are it'll be an EE100, EE101, CE100, AE100, AE101, AE102 etc etc. More information is necessary
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Toyota ECUs in general are not tuneable, programable or chip-able apart from a select few OEM-approved aftermarket ones such as TOMs, Mines etc.
And the TOMs ECU in the AE112 Sportivo costs something like $10,000 to replace from factory.
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Where is propane mentioned, i thought he said liquified petroleum gas?
Automotive LPG is basically propane mixed with butane. Other LPGs can be straight propane (such as most BBQ gas bottles etc, although some auto LPG can be straight) or straight butane as well.
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Sads:(
What's next?
Fix the Corolla and buy a house. Next car will most likely be some kind of family car, or something fun for me if I decide to semi-retire the Corolla (and use the Camry as the family car)
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Sadly all good things must come to an end, and a combination of a cracked subframe/broken chassis and lack of funds the old girl has now passed on to the other side, on the way donating many of her more desirable organs to eager enthusiasts.
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All Australian-delivered 1ZZs are VVTi. North America got the ZZ engine a series earlier than Japan and Australia did (in the ZZE112 series, whereas Australia had the 7A-powered AE112).
I've mainly heard about the horror stories in the US non-VVTi models, not to say that the later ones sold here are immune but it definitely seems less common.
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From memory the issue only really affected the non-VVTi 1ZZFEs fitted to the ZZE112 Corollas in North America (Australian and Japanese models soldiered on with the A-series motors). If you're buying an Australian-delivered 1ZZ then it will be the VVTi model and shouldn't suffer the problems that the US ones did.
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I'm not paying out the ass for a 1.6 litre RA28, because i think the TA22's looked cooler anyway.
RA28s are 2.0L :P
My '06 Toyota Aurion Sx6 Sportivo
in Rollaclub Rides
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No such thing as an Aurion Mark X, two very different cars that happen to have sort-of similar styling...