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AidoKsev

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About AidoKsev

  • Birthday 09/06/1995

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Real Name
    Aidan

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  1. Hey all, it is a 20v Silvertop, Anyone have any opinions on why if I pour fuel into the throttle bodies and start the engine, it runs till its out of fuel, yet there is no injector pulse? I am still using the FWD wiring loom UNCUT as I only put the engine in for an event this weekend. I can't figure out why it would have been running perfectly in the FWD car and now it's not going. Its still a standard Silvertop ECU. Perhaps it could be something like part of the interior loom that is still in the other car that needs to be there? Although I'm just powering the ECU from my ignition switch and I've left most of the stuff that would have been in the kick panels disconnected because I don't want bulk wiring inside the car as I barely used any of it with my 16v? Maybe its an Earth that I've left off somewhere? If anyone has any insights it would be great because I need it by this Sunday!
  2. Just seen the part about where they maybe Camry injectors, meaning they would most likely be from a 2.4L. 2.4L injectors on a 1.6L! that would definitely be your problem! If I come round soon I'll bring my Bigport injectors and see if its better...
  3. This could be due to the new fluid being Dot 4, all Toyota's (should) have dot 3 fluid, and although it should only be a difference in boiling point between the grades, the rubbers inside the cylinders can swell and cause a crap pedal. You might be able to pick up a bottle of genuine Toyota Dot 3 fluid at a Toyota dealership if you're keen
  4. The only thing with putting a 4AGE head on the standard 4AC block is that the flycuts in the pistons will be different, so change the pistons and you should be alright, but from what i know the VIN/Compliance plates for early Rolla's don't have the engine number stamped on them, so change the whole engine anyway as the block still has the 4A***** and then you could just say that you've changed the head!
  5. Fixed!! After months of trying to figure it out, I finally found the correct wiring diagram and voltage table for my engine, so I checked all the voltages at the back of the ECU, and turns out the TPS was telling the computer it was at full throttle all the time, therefore flooding when revs built up and sending the timing crazy! So I reset the TPS, and it runs fine, still a bit rich but hits the limiter and the timing goes the right way! If you have problems, check your TPS first! I've read that a lot of people have had other serious problems and turns out to be the TPS, so check it!!
  6. Is it a bigport? And is this for road use or track use?
  7. Capel!! I'd love to help out but I don't have my license yet and can't really get around! What car are you wiring it into??
  8. Yep the cam timing is fine and everything lines up correctly, why this is happening I can't find out as it was running fine before I swapped it!
  9. I'm new to this forum, well any forum, but I am in dire need of help! I have just converted my "84 KE70 too an AE82 Bluetop (Bigport) 4AGE engine, and I am having some problems. The car runs fine and is perfectly driveable up until about 6000RPM. It confuses me because it runs so well up until this point, but as soon as it hits between 5500 RPM - 6000 RPM, the engine, runs out of spark? I suppose, and spits and backfires and carries on and will not rev any higher. Also with a timing light, the timing is sitting at about 15 degrees advanced now (with the distributor retarded as much as I can) and does not retard anymore, only advances to about 45 degrees advanced) and the distributor is not out one tooth because if I move it back one tooth it wont start at all! Also the timing is retarding when revved, not advancing! So I can't figure out what is going on here! I have tried too put the ECU into diagnostic mode but nothing happens, and I checked 'T' I think it is, in the diagnostic plug, (which from a wiring diagram runs to pin B6 on the ECU) and it has permanent continuity to Earth, which I can't understand because to get the car into diagnostic mode you need to ground 'T'?!?! I know I have all the correct wiring as I bought the AE82 with the engine in it and removed it all myself, and I havent touched any of the two engine looms, the only wiring I messed with is the 'interior' loom because I wanted to get rid of all the shit on the inside of the car as I am using this for Autocross/Rally. And it ran fine in the old car but now its just... The engine is also running really rich and constantly spits and backfires at idle, I quickly wired up the check engine light to see if that was the cause of the 'T' terminals earthing but to no success, I need help!
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