ranko_87

Corolla Ke20 built to Historic Group Nc spec 3K bored 40thou to 1198cc Bigport head Twin 45 Dcoe Webers Crappy wild cat extractors and 2" street exhaust - tuned length exhaust and possible upright coming soon Big thanks to Nick at Topend Performance 0413 967 462 for his efforts with this motor. Head flows over 160hp.

Sorry for the terrible grammer in my previous post. I use koni sports (adjusted to suit my application). An unadjusted koni, or monroe gt gas would be fine.

Early commodore wagon/ute rear shock and is 57mm shorter then std. These work perfectly with a 2" lowered ke20, they just require a sleeve fitted to the bottom eye, which is easily done. In my Group N ke20 I use vs commodore ute knoi sports with a sleeve in the bottom eye in my ke20 with a reset and extra leaf added.

ke20 rear shock 574 extended, 359 compressed, pin top, eye bottom with sleeve ke30-55 rear shock 517 extended, 307 compressed pin top eye bottom

I have 2 tail shafts and I don't know what they fit. Gearbo yoke fits k40/50. Length is the same as ke20 manual with jap diff but the diff flange is different. Doesn't fit ke20 jap or ke20 Borg. Has a bigger spigot and wider bolt spacing. I'll measure I if needed. Any ideas

Does that actually give history in aus? I can't read it in the pic. It has to have raced as a 3j not a sports sedan or the like? Homologation papers arent enought to get it into group n, even if they are dated prior to 72. All comes down to race history. I tried that. Mick - i wrote the spec sheet which is now available on the cams website. Mine is pretty tame, big cam, lot of headwork, and a bit of mucking around with suspension. It is gutless in comparison to the escorts and 1600 datos i compete with, but out handles all of them

I race a ke20 in Nc here in Qld. I'm also the treasurer of the HRCC group n commitee. I researched long and hard to try and get a te20, te25 or te27 eligible for group n with no luck. Group n is the historic production touring car hacing, so to be eligible the car had to be raced in aus as a 3j production car prior to 1972. I spoke with cams, the qld eligibility officer at the time, and Bruce Richards, if you can find proof it raced as a production car in aus prior to 72, your all good. I couldn't find any in aus. Good luck.

It all comes down to the choke size used in the carbs. I have twin 45s on a 3k (race) but they are choked to 34mm, and you can buy 32mm chokes for the 45, which is what most 40mmm DCOEs run. My dyno tuner has told me to try putting the 36mm chokes in as it will make more HP but loose down low drivability. Also I have a friend with a 2L datsun which made 27 extra hp going from twin 44s to twin 50s which most people said would be to big for the 2L.

You don't happen to know where I could get one? Or what box in what car has the long carrier, because I have 4 boxes and they all have the short carrier.

It is an orgional motor (as in orgionally in a ke20) but it is far from untouched. jun flywheel, H/D clutch, all new. This is the 3rd clutch in the car (race car, haven't worn them out, just put a new clutch in with each motor. The throw out bearing is the one that came with the gearbox.

Hi, I have a ke20 with a 3k and k40 and my clutch cable is on full adjustment and really should be adjusted further. The clutch fork is forward of centre in the released positsion and comes very far forward when the clutch is depressed. It looks as though the throw out bearing/bearing retained should be longer? Is there more then one length across the models? I know my 3k is an orgional ke20 item, and I have the thicker of the 2 engine backing plates. The gearbox is a ke20 k40 with the extension housing changed to the ke30. Any advis would be great. P.s. I have done a seaech and found a thread that stated the bearing number is the same from ke15 to ke70, but that doesn't mean the retainer that the bearing is pressed onto are all the same.

I have noticed my rail flexes if i dry steer with my semi slicks on. I havn't braced it yet, but i do plan to brace the steering box and incorperate a brace to the master cylinder as my fire wall flexes under heavy braking. Definately worth wile spending the time.

Reversing the eyes of the leaf spring (done properly, not just flipping the complete main leaf) will lower the car the same amount as the diameter fo the front eye. You always want to have some arch in your spring, not flat or arching backwards (frowning smile) for a few reasons, one being to keep the wheel base lengthing on compression not shortening. Lowering blocks work very well up to 2" on a std car, they don't work with high horse power or in skid pigs. I am in Underwood and can have leaf springs reset. If you interested in blocks or resetting you springs, email or PM me - I hope this isn't considered as soliciting. Cheers Andrew

Hi, Corolla 1000, KE10, KE15, KE16 list the same tie rod ends. (corse thread) ($55each + Postage) Corolla 1200, KE11, KE17, KE18 list the same tie rod ends. (fine thread) (no longer available) Hope this helps everyone out. Andrew

The KE30, KE35, KE50, KE55, 1974 - 1981 are all listed together, but with 2 different front eye bush part numbers. I personally don't use nolathathe as i find it perishes to quickly. Superpro polyurethane seems to work much better in the 8 years i have been fitting it. The 35mm part number is SPF0891K The 50mm part number is SPF1385K Hope this helps Andrew Southside Suspension.

My Ke20 is bog stock, minus carpet and hoodlining, drivers seat swapped to a race seat. bulk head added behind rear seat. steel whells swapped to wider alloys, coil overs, ke70 front rotors and calipars. Roll cage, twin carb 3k and salsbury style tail shaft. I thought it would weigh in around 820kg - 850kg but was surprised when it weighed it in at 938kg. What do you think would be a reasonable weight for my ke20 in historic trim? Would the sound deadning from the inner gaurds and uder body make much difference, and lightening the rear seat etc? Cheers Andrew

Hey all, Has anyone ever weighed their KE20. I was assuming mine would weigh similar to the kerb weight listed in my manual, to my surprise my ke20 sedan with cage, race seat, no carpet, no hood lining, with half a tank of fuel weighed in at 938kg. I don't understand why it is so heavy. It has a 3k, 4 spd, banjo diff. alloy wheels, etc. what do you guys think Andrew

So I fitted the oil pressure gauge and warnig light. Used an adjustable oil pressure sender currently set at 40psi. It flashes on and off when hot at idle, so should be perfect when on the track. Next race is the 16th May, so time will tell.

I was looking for a photo of my corolla on my work computer and found this one and though i'd upload it. It is from Lakeside 20/03/10. This photo is of my first ever over take. I went into the next corners so much fast i ended up spinning off the track and loosing the position i had just made.

I want an oil pressure warning light which comes on earlier then the standard one so i will have the relay in place anyway. I have VDO Adjustable oil pressure sender unit ordered. It is adjustable from 20 to 60 psi. I will look through that site as it would be nice to get a shut off with a 3 second delay, and that would work for 3 second from intial ignition on. This is stright from the CAMS Manual "Ignition: May be of the same type, but not necessarily brand as supplied by the manufacturer for the make and model concerned. Contact breaker points and condenser may be removed and their standard operations performed by electronic components providing the following conditions are adhered to: (i) All components, save for the coil, shall be an integral part of the distributor. (ii) A maximum of two wires shall connect the low tension side of the distributor to the coil. These wires shall be visibly continuous and not contain any supplementary connection to any other component. Permitted is the fitment of an uninsulated earthing conductor between distributor body and cylinder block. (iii) Ignition advance shall be restricted to mechanical actuation within the distributor." I think that rules out that PEEL black box.

Thanks for your replies, you have made valid points. I'm sort of trying to kill 2 birds with one stone and may have mislead you as to what i'm trying to do. I am only trying to get a warning light illuminate at low oil pressure (PSI yet to be determind) and have the fuel pump cut if the engine stalls but ignition is left on. (roll over or any crash really) I figure if oil pressure drops below lets say 15PSI when I am at full RPM (atm only 6500) killing the engine instantly, or seeing the idiot light flash on, backing off and killing the engine isn't going to make a whole lot of difference. The damage would already be done expecially if it was due to a leak or something like that. So for the moment, i am just going to install my idiot light. http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=158 Which is like having a red torch shining in your face and if it flashes up momentarily mid corner in my first race i know i have to pull the sump off and baffle it. with the added bonus of having it there to minimise damage incase of failure. The fuel cut is a CAMS requirement if running an electric pump. At the moment i am running a mechanical pump so i don't have to worry about it, but if i put the wiring in place, running off the same switch the job is done for when i change to electric facet pump and side draft webers. With the wiring diagram above, i would just have to link the crank wire into the 87a terminal of the fuel pump relay? Do you think the engine would get above 30psi oil pressure quick enough between releasing the key and having 30psi as to not turn off the pump? Unfortuantly i have to avoid black boxes coming of the distributer as can only run electric ignition if it is concealed in the dizzy and can't run MSD etc. so even though the fuel cut has no mechanical advantage, it could cause hassles always having to explain it to scuiteneers. I also wouldn't mind having a fuel pump light, given all the switches in place to have it disconnect.

The fuel pump shut off isn't really to kill the motor, just to stop the pump emptying the fuel all over the track. It is a CAMs requirment if you run an electric pump to have a shut off if the engine stalls. Obviously the + battery in my diagram would actually be ignition on. So you think that the resistance through the sender may be too high to ground the relay? I think 20-25 PSI would be perfect but autometer only does a 15, 30 and 50. and i don't know who else might make one. Holley do a 5psi saftey shut off switch, which is all in 1. Power in, to fuel pump, and crank wire. But 5psi is a bit low for my idiot light, and i don't want to have to run 3 senders.

Here is what i am thinking? Will this work, I'm not auto electrician.

Hey everyone, I've fitted semi slicks to my 20 now... and I've been told to be careful of 2 things: 1. Over working the brakes with increased speeds (already ordered front pads in the QFM A1RM, double the working temp of my current pads) and 2. Oil surge as a result of increased corner speed and non baffled sump. While not a solution, I am in the process of fitting an oil pressure gauge and an autometer pro warning light (idiot light) I'm just concerned about the number of senders being tee'd off the oil pressure switch. There is the gauge, a idiot light sender and in the future, a 5psi electric fuel pump safety shut off switch. I have a few questions, 1. Autometer do a 15, 30 and 50 psi idiot light sender, from my corolla manual the specs say 42psi oil pressure at 3000rpm @ 100 deg. C or 28psi at 300rpm @ 100 deg. C so do I use a 30psi sender, which will most likey flash on at low rpm or use a 15psi sender which will most likey not come on as early, but is 15psi pressure enough at high rpm. 2. If I use the 15psi light sender, could i use a relay with a switching earth to cut the fuel pump? would 15 psi be low enough that the fuel pump would run as soon as the motor has kicked? If i wire the relay to swich when ground is opened, then how can i wire in bypass for when the engine cranks? Cheers Andrew

I've fitted semi slicks now... and I've been told to be careful of 2 things: 1. Over working the brakes with increased speeds (already ordered front pads in the QFM A1RM, double the working temp of my current pads) and 2. Oil surge as a result of increased corner speed and non baffled sump. While not a solution, I am in the process of fitting an oil pressure gauge and an autometer pro warning light (idiot light) I'm just concerned about the number of senders being tee'd off the oil pressure switch. There is the gauge, a idiot light sender and in the future, a 5psi electric fuel pump safety shut off switch. I have a few questions, 1. Autometer do a 15, 30 and 50 psi idiot light sender, from my corolla manual the specs say 42psi oil pressure at 3000rpm @ 100 deg. C or 28psi at 300rpm @ 100 deg. C so do I use a 30psi sender, which will most likey flash on at low rpm or use a 15psi sender which will most likey not come on as early, but is 15psi pressure enough at high rpm. 2. If I use the 15psi light sender, could i use a relay with a switching earth to cut the fuel pump? would 15 psi be low enough that the fuel pump would run as soon as the motor has kicked? If i wire the relay to swich when ground is opened, then how can i wire in bypass for when the engine cranks? I might post this in the tech section aswell. Cheers Andrew