Felix
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Posts posted by Felix
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I've got one for you Tiger. I'd like a 4th order Bandpass enclosure to suit my Boston Acoustics G512-4.
Specs:
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LOL the best rap song ever...
Just love Blind Melon.
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See if you can still buy one of these. Your points will last forever and only need the gap checked every once in a while.
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If you do a search on this site and spell "flared guards" properly you will find a pinned how to guide. :rolls:
Edit: I see you asked the same question yesterday here. Didn't that answer your question?
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A brunette seafood sensation?
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A local hooker and a trip to Subway would probably work out cheaper and less complicated. :laff:
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Hot idle compensator? Not sure if they were on the 20 carbs, the ke3x had them.
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question, are the points counterweight springs the same as the electronic one?
I'm pretty sure you can remove the hall effect sensor and install it on the points counter weights/shaft
The springs might work.
If you have a Bosch dizzy look at sigmas with Bosch based electronic dizzys. Bosch dizzy parts are a lot more interchangeable than Nipondenso ones. Heaps of different cars to look at for alternate springs and weights.
Ideally with a modded motor the advance curve should be shorter as well as more aggressive.
I've found the electronic (internal igniter) dizzies give better starting, but then decrease performance across the rev range. They most definitely need recurving.
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In your ke70 an upgrade to a 5k would probably net similar performance to a stock 3k in a ke11.
Paint it then save your money for a conversion.
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The early doors will fit. The door opening handle and lock (on the inside) is different, likewise the door cards.
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You may get away without using the bolts on the ends of the bumper. The bumper "might" vibrate/rattle.
If you were pre-paint you could always weld and re-drill the bumper holes. Would stop the bumper ends twisting when using the bolts.
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The holes for the bumper ends are higher on the later guards.
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madrolla68 made 159RwKw on 19.5 Psi with a turbo 5k. Used a 7k injection setup.
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ill be flipping the carby 180 degrees so that the fuel in is facing the front of the car. so on hard lunches the fuel doesnt move away from the jets and run empty.
:y: Yep, she's on backwards. Fuel bowl should be at the front.
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There was a thread on the old toyota3tc.com forums where a guy put an F20C motor in a TE27.
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Pretty sure from memory the Bosch dizzys use GB534 points (same as most holdens). Can't remember the p/n for the Bosch condenser.
What dizzy do you have, Bosch or Nippondenso? Got a pic?
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Can you get a piston stop tool for a 5k or do you use some custom jigg?
I made one up out of an old plug. Has a bolt through the center with a couple of nuts to adjust if needed.
On that note I have just observed a split secion of piping where the brake booster hose connects to the manifold. The split is right on the tip of the hose but I will disconnect and cover the hose and see what it does.Hopefully I get this sorted soon, it's most likely going to be the simplest thing as it always turns out to be.
Sounds like it could be the culprit. As you say it pays to check the simple things first.
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To find precise TDC is easy. Make yourself a piston stop tool out of an old gutted sparkplug.
Remove sparkplugs.
With piston down the bore a bit, install piston stop in motor and carefully rotate until the end of tool contacts piston. Make a mark on the timing pulley in relation to the TDC mark on the timing cover.
Rotate motor backwards carefully until tool contacts piston again. Make another mark on pulley.
Halfway between the two marks is TDC, file new mark and paint white so it stands out with a timing light.
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:lolcry:
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Are you running ported or manifold vacuum?
Old School
in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
Posted