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Posts posted by Felix
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Yea my splash plates rubbed when I first installed the ke30 discs. I just bent them slightly like Cam stated.
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Ah it was your pic I borrowed. :)
I'm not sure about lumpy, hard to really see, but it certainly has some lift.
I'd advise you check your lifter preload like philbey described in a previous post in this thread, and put the results up here. From there we can work out if you need to correct anything.
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Maybe, but I'd say that would be a rarity unless the cam was a new billet (or hard welded) and not a regrind.
Look at the following reground cam compared to a stock one. Note the massive reduction in the base circle to gain additional lift.
The lifter would drop down the block a fair bit reducing preload, needing the base of the rocker pedestals to be shaved. Obviously a shaved head would help close the gap, but I don't think anyone is going to be shaving a head by that much.
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This ones for felix, do you know what the CR and CC volume of your 5k is?
Cheers
I can't remember the CC volume as the motor was put together 6 years or so ago. It ended up around 9.6:1 as I set it up for 95 octane.
As for shimming up rocker pedestals... Why? Normally when you regrind a cam the base circle is reduced to get extra lift, so if anything you need to shave the base of the rocker pedestals to regain lifter preload.
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Corflute. :yes: Good shit, go steal a real estate sign.
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The motor is a D-dished 5k with the std head (knobby bits under 1 and 4 plugs), shaved and ported.
The lifters have had the circlips removed, the guts emptied out and the pushrod cups dropped back down into the base of the lifters.
Very simple and easy. The main reason was to run the solid cam from my prior 4k.
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I do have solids in my 5k, but they didn't cost me a single cent. :cool: Gutted 5k hydraulics with 3k pushrods and 4k rocker gear. Done about 60 thousand kays without an issue. Makes me laugh when not so smart people spend up for a solid lifter conversion.
I wouldn't bother if it actually cost money... it is a K series after all, the simplest of the simplest of motors.
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felix gets credit for cutting slots in the caliper bracket even though i said the same thing 2 post before he did :P :lol:
So you did. I didn't notice that. Interestingly BMW were way ahead of both of us, my '87 model E32 has a grommet around the brake hoses that unclips from a bracket on the struts.
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Yea, it is just crap.
They should have had an impromptu demo derby or something... would have been more entertaining.
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Good write up. :y:
One thing I do is cut a slot in the bracket thing that holds the brake hoses to the strut. Then you can bend it open slide out the hoses and not have to worry about cracking open the brake lines and having to bleed the brakes.
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Definitely. Nothing like some classy German heavy iron... They do cars way better than the Japs ever could.
The Germans are true innovators, the Japanese imitators.
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Superman with balls of steel.
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16-17cc is pretty much normal for a dished piston head (with the lugs).
It is fine. Use it.
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Could it have something to do with the air temperature plus the altitude? This might indicate a mixture issue.
Could do.
I'd be experimenting with upping the primary main jet size a little.
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Sounds like it could be running a bit lean.
No air leaks at all?
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Maybe try a masthead amplifier. Makes a massive difference where we live surrounded by hills.
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The Bosch style internal reg alternators use different mounts that bolt to the block.
The front wiring harness for charge, indicators and main power lead is pretty easy to pull out.
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Yep, but you should run a non-resistor coil (if you haven't already).
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just had a quick read through all this, with a electronic dissy running the std coil, is the ballast required?
ballast resistor drops the voltage at cranking (something like that) to 8v for better starting?
Ballast resistor drops voltage to coil when running to preserve points. At startup the resistor is bypassed so coil receives full battery voltage.
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Good, hopefully he can help you out.
I fixed the voltage figures in my previous post.
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No sorry the setup I had was sold a few years ago. Think ScottKE1x bought it. Maybe drop him a PM.
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As for the curve, I do want to get an MSD programmable anyway, so it'll be lock time anyway.
No worries. Sounds like a good plan.
Something you may find of interest from a bit of a quick test with one of those spark tester tools at idle:
5k electronic dizzy with Bosch black transistor coil. 30,000 volts.
4k Scorcher Bosch recurved dizzy with Jaycar HEI kit and Echlin GX80 coil. 25,000 volts.
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Why don't you run one of those black transistor coils for higher voltage? That is what I had before I sold off my 5k electronic dizzy and coil that was on the ke16. The 5k leccy dizzys advance curve isn't the best, unless you get it recurved. Car went much better afterwards with a points dizzy.
I've had one of those GT40 can style coils burn out before after a couple of years. It was a resistor type, running a resistor... not a fan. The Echlin GX80's are better in my experience.
Anybody Work With Cardboard?
in Automotive Discussion
Posted · Edited by Felix
Maybe if the O2 sensor is hooked up to an efi motor while it is in closed loop mode. You do realise a carbed car is analogue, and in this case the O2 sensor is used for monitoring purposes only...
As for his mixtures altering with differing wind directions, have you ever heard of the ram air effect? I'd say altezzaclub is experiencing a form of this. The headlight is causing a shrouding effect dependent on wind direction, which is reducing intake pressure.
For someone trying to exude knowledge, your replies in this thread seem to express the total opposite. Who really cares what you've done, this thread isn't about you. Consider either pulling your head in or taking an extended holiday from this forum.