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camerondownunder88

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Posts posted by camerondownunder88

  1. Spark checker is one of those dodgey ones with 2 probes that attach to spark lead and earth other end and wind out to marks from 0 to 40,000Volts.

     

    Is a guide nothing more.

     

    What I want to do is make a clamp probe for my multi meter that will handle the volts but that is on the to do list way down at number 300..lol

     

    But reason I wired it up wiht the 12V KE1X coil is that in the manual my bad Jap translation says suitable for both types...obviously not..LOL

     

     

    Cameron

  2. Hi,

    Ok did over time so didnt get as much done as I wanted to but here goes.

     

    On way home bought a new dizzy cap, dizzy rotor, points, condenser.

     

    I installed new condenser and while at it checked the resistance from the bolt that condenser attaches to that has the points wire to it to the dizzy housing. Infinant :jamie: excelent no ground leak.

     

    Installed points. Gapped and lubed dizzy shaft. While at it poped off centre bung and oiled dizzy 2 shafts for the advance mech (no one ever does this the amount of K dizzys that are seized I get..LOL)

     

    Poped on new cap and new rotor button (not in that order).

     

    took out CDI loom. Put back stock KE1X wire.

     

    Fired car up ran fine. Got spark tester out 12,000V is all I could get with a pissy weak spark. :bash:

     

    The CDI hit 40,000V HUGE hot visicous spark multipul times so difference HUGE>

     

    I am still using stock KE1X coil

     

    Tomorrow I will install my KE3X coila nd resistor I have in the shed and there is some stray wires in the KE15 loom that the original owner put in so I will also while at it remove them.

     

    Test again and then re-install CDI and see how I go.

     

    As CDI book has TE37 in it and how to install there adn there a resistor style coil so prob should have a ballast resistor.

     

    But enough rambling let the pics speak.

     

    Below is the points notice the heat distress to the arm and the contact points all burnt.

     

    Then in the second pic notice the plastic melted at the base. This is the shaft bushing. It has melted and ran down the shaft making the points go side ways. So this has also lead me to belive possibly this failed and caused the points to go???

    post-1811-1282552568_thumb.jpg

    post-1811-1282552664_thumb.jpg

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  3. Value if it is a RRR (running, reliable, rego) expect around 10 grand.

     

    There is one for sale in Brisbane near you atm for $9000. Is nto original 4K motor been cut up for after market exhaust CD player etc. Also is a base model so not an SE or SL. So no fancy features.

     

    Mine is an SL with all features apart from under dash tray. I had to put a new engine in car as original was dead. Atm car is valued over 11 grand. Reason why mine is not worth more is my body work has had 2 minor hits so is not perfect. And I did an engine swap.

     

    So a good condition one that is SL or SE atm could fetch about 16 grand that value was obtained through shannons insurance who had recently seen one sell for that value

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  4. Hi,

    Should also note I ran the earth wire directly to the negative side of the battery. Would this affect operation?

     

    Also tomorrow I will go by new points and put them in remove the CDI and get car going fine.So back to square one.

     

    I will then install my KE30 coil and resistor and try that. If all is good then I will know that I have no issues.

     

    I will then install the CDI with the resistor on the coil and test. If I burn points I know it wasnt the coil. And ill start again.

     

    Evan as for dizzy wire yes jsut one wire to the coil. It then goes to the negative side of the coil.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

     

    P.S. Should also note condenser is old as the hills and was burning hot after testing today so will replace this tomorrow also.

  5. Hi,

     

    "Sounds like it is wired wrong, It is just 4 wire isn't it? Similar thing to what I run on mine, Though I have an electronic dizzy..

    Yes run a ballast resistor!"

     

    I double checked the wiring about 10 times. It also came with a plug and play loom for KE3X/TE37 that was model when this unit was released.

     

    I made my own to suit KE1X.

     

    Only thing I can think is KE1X run a 12V coil no ballast resistor. KE3X and up have ballast resistor.

     

    Car runs just misses below 3500RPM and after that the fun begins but also melts and I mean MELTS points in 5min.

     

    Car still runs but as yes points are just a "switch" that is why it is weird I melted them.

     

    As for rotor and dizzy cap. Not a mark no burning or anything visible :(

     

    That is why I'm stumped it is some how cooking points.

     

    SO I think Justin you might be right I NEED the resistor.

     

    I have a spare KE3X coil and resistor in the shed so think Ill grab it and see how I go after replacing my points.

     

    But I got software to scan books and recognise the words and translate them etc so going to scan the manual see what I get.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  6. Hi,

    As most of you know I have a KE15 and drive it around.

     

    Today I fitted a TRD CDI unit to the car :( Very rare but packs hell of a spark.

     

    Now problem is wired it up as the CDI said how to, to a STOCK original KE1X coil.

     

    Car started great :D took it for a drive and straight away I noticed under load the car felt like it was missing and from idle to about 3500 RPM takes off runs fine :?

     

    So after a 5min drive get home pull open bonnet pop off dizzy cap (stock KE1X dizzy) points MELTED :bash: arm of the points was nice purple colour and out of shape and destroyed :(

     

    Now thing is I have the manual for the CDI and it is all in Jap :( can't read it so kinda went by pictures and the picture on the front of the CDI>

     

    Now has anyone ever used a TRD CDI?

     

    Also should I change my coil and will this stop the points dieing?

     

    ALso points failed I think due to current being pulled through them.

     

    Could it be the CDI will always pull too much current?

     

    I'm at a loss on how to sort it out any advice appreciated.

     

    Also from what I can decifer from the manual. CDI ona 4 cyclinder good to 18,000RPM giving 2 sparks at that point. With a output to coil of 5.5 K volts and will work from 8V to 16 volts input so works while cranking.

     

    Also a few pics in the book show how to wire it up with a resistor on the coil Would a resistor styled coil stop points melting every 5min?

     

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

     

    Pics of CDI etc...

    post-1811-1282454733_thumb.jpg

  7. Stock KE15 did quater in 17 seconds on a 3k-B motor factory spec.

     

    And total guess this but a KE70 with a silvertop will run about a 15.5 second pass so ina lighter car not by much but enough i recon high like 14.9 to low low 15.2 second passes.

     

    Also if it is stock diff will get off line faster than other KE's as KE1X had a lower diff ratio so migh be a high 14.

     

    Let us know the results.

     

    Cameron

  8. The photos of the extractors you got made are 100% identical to the KE1X ones I have.

     

    From my experence KE1X,2X and 3X series extractors I have owned they are all the same up to the collector. Here they start to differ as the floor pan changed in the KE series. So these might fit jsut need to cut section of pipe off at the collector and buyer welds on his own length to suit car and application.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  9. Hi,

    My KE15 did this des when I first got it.

     

    I found it to be a combination of:

    Corroded connections,

    Blown bulbs scattered around the place,

    And the indicator stalk its self had bad contacts,

    AND the main harness to the dash cluster affects all the lights in my car so many places in 40-year-old wires where fault can occur.

     

    Start simple but try the bulb. BUT be-ware KE1X have like a rubber insulator in the indicators over time and heat this hardens and cracks easy. If it breaks light shorts out and stays on just watch this.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  10. Just adding my 2c

     

    KE1X in my parts book have listed 2 different types of front brake disk setup one is akebono other is sumitomo.

     

    KE2X used similar brakes to KE1X dare say types listed above and a girlock setup also.

     

    So that new rotor could suit a KE2X but with a different manufacture of front brake.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  11. Hello,

    First off what solid lifters you using?

     

    This is a off shot but you might be losing all your oil pressure at the lifters.

     

    I had a 5K once the hole for the hydro lifter oil passage was drilled a tad higher than another 5K block I had laying about.

     

    Thus when running chev solid lifters opened the hole and oil went oh into lifter and I got no pressure.

     

    Long shot but I know this CAN happen.

     

    But most likely not running correct tappet clearence..LOL

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  12. Kits don't exist...here any way :laff:

     

    Only ones I have found are for just clutch plates at a cost of $200 ish AU in Japan. hen need to post and that is for one clutch need more than one so yeah.

     

    But if you do get a 5.6 inch diff parts fit inside the 6 inch ;)

     

    I bought 2 one for spares and the 6 inch I got was rebuilt all ready so I havent tried to hard.

     

    But best bet try a diff shop a AE86 shims etc might fit so give it a go.

     

    Cameron

  13. Hi,

    Not sure of cam but it is pretty big if it is 298 deg.

     

     

    I run 271 degree in my 5K makes power from 4000 RPM to 7500 RPM with slight heap de-burring and porting, extractors and twin stock asian carbies. Would be best suited to side draft carbies this cam (that's why I got it) with more degrees like your cam you would NEED twin side draft carbies.

     

    I also run low diff gears 4.33:1 gears. So I sit on 4000 RPM at 100km/h so put foot down I go. Cam is on verge of mmm not a daily the one I have so Id say yours wouldn't be a good choice for a 4K daily. Also mine has a pretty rough idle :) wose than expected but twin carbies will settle it down and they sucka lot of fuel so not good for a daily..LOL

     

    Also in comparison going off 298 deg your cam is similar to 474 grind here:

     

    http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  14. Well done Cam! What one did you get? ...and when do you reckon you will build it?

     

    Hi,

    Well tomorrow night I see a window of opportunity so might solder the kit up tomorrow night. You have me thinking about it again and just finished an amp so my electronics desk is free so shall see what I can do tomorrow.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  15. Hello,

    Just adding what I have.

     

    With the narrow band yes not the best for tuning but better than nothing once you have a rough setup for carbies this can help fine tune them a bit more.

     

    As for the kits I am currently building one atm. At the end of finance year I got a wide band fuel meter kit for Half price :( so like $35 I think it was CHEAP.

     

    Jump on evil bay. $100 will get you a wide band sensor :D

     

    Then jaycar now make a kit for the wide band controller for under $100 (think I saw it at $69 other day)

     

    So for me about $190 I will have a full wide band setup.

     

    But then the wide band jaycar kit pull out the O2 sensor and any sensor with a 0-5 volt range will plug n and it will read it :D

     

    So with some tuning and that I could adapt this to a oil pressure, fuel pressure, vac gauge etc the list goes one your imagination limits you only. So es initially could cost $200+ for jaycar setup but uses down the track HEAPS.

     

    And the wide band kit straight out of the box will read narrow band sensors so even if you can't afford a wide band sensor and controller straight away hey can still get a cheap narrow band sensor and start tuning. As a rich running carbie can kill an engine fast if left to run rich. And I am sure the motor being re-built cost more than tuning the carbies correctly.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

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