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camerondownunder88

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Posts posted by camerondownunder88

  1. Well no I didnt trev..LOL

     

    But got a spare KE3X resistor measure at 2.3 ohms.

     

    I measured the stock coil internal resistance at: 4.6 ohms (this is a KE1X 12v stock coil)

     

    Accel coil measures at: 1.6 ohms internal resistance.

     

    Now for testing added the KE3X resistor and it WORKED :)Car out of tune so can't get firm results yet but.

     

    But in this link:

    http://www.accel-ignition.com/pdf/140001.pdf

     

    it says add a 1.35 ohm resistor on top of stock resistance.

     

    Does anyone know resistance of a chev/ford V8 stock engine? I can then add the total needed resistance and have a target.

     

    As I don't want to much resistance stopping coil making power yet I don't want to little causing the coil to fail and not spark etc.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  2. Hi,

    Been toying with the idea of running a Accel Super coil 140001 in my KE15 for a while. So last weekend I got off my bum and put the one I had in the shed in. Coil is designed for a points system with super low internal resistance so there is minimal "inductance resistance" in the coil Thus making a bigger charge BOOM more spark power. These coild can make up to 65,000V on a test stand simulating a V8 so should go good on a 4 banger right....

     

    Well bolted it on hooked up my wires (noting it is a KE1X so no external resistor).

     

    And start car.....

     

    Struggles to idle can't rev past 1500 RPM pops splutter runs horrible well not at all really.

     

    So on went stock 40-year-old coil again runs fine...

     

    Now I do need a better coil at cruise of 100KM/H (4000RPM) car has a slight pop as the stock coil starts to "run-off" and it misses but due to high-speed can't feel or really hear the miss (I can hear it as with my straight through 2 inch exhaust it amps up the small pop once every 30-47 seconds a LOT..LOL) and yes I have timed the interval between misses and gets worse when coil gets hotter.

     

    So at first I though ah that super accel coil I had was dead so in the bin it went.

     

    Jumped on vil bay got one cheap working off a chev V8 I was told put it in the KE15 today SAME DEAL.....

     

    Coil misses, car wont rev past 1500RPM splutter wont idle at all really.

     

    What is going on?

     

    This coil ok ok I hooked it up with out a resistor I know it needs one as the primary windings in the coil have little to no resistance.

     

    But could this cause the miss fire and pop etc just by not running a resistor?

     

    Later when pulling apart car again will play with a spare resistor I ave to see if it will work with a resistor but so annoyed hope I have not purchased a dude and had 2 shit coils.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  3. Your oil pressure is 100% OK :hmm:

     

    Leave the oil pump.

     

    The shims affect the by-pass pressure so max pressure of the pump will not affect/increase idle pressure.

     

    Idle in my 5K is 18PSI

     

    with 2.5mm shim in my pump I get 70PSI and the pump bypasses and wont go higher.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  4. ^^ Yeah I find with out string takes me a lot longer (5min more..LOL)

     

    But heads up USE waxed or nylon or smooth string course string can and might damage seal. Just incase don't wanna see you killer good gasket.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  5. Hi All,

    Just a quick reply before bed.

     

    Note on oil cooler thing. WHy use stock go get a HKS one..LOL

     

    But oil will reduce in density as it gets hotter. I know I jsut finished learning this at UNI..lol (yes all I am at uni atm studying engineering.)

     

    anyway back to topic.

     

    Got cylinder head back today looks nice as but I have now see the damage poorly managed coolant and anti corrosion stuff can do :( my head is so badly corroded in parts not needing weld but would be nice to remove pitting on the face but due to being shaved before we couldn't grind it all out. So when this goes back together will be keeping an eye on the coolant temp..LOL But hey have an over flow bottle now so it is at least keeping the coolant in the engine..LOL

     

    But the head is as follows now:

    Stripped

    Cleaned

    Crack tested

    skimmed flat again

    exhaust and inlet ports de bured and slightly reshaped to flow better

    4 yes 4 angle valve grind

    reassembled and ready to run

     

    :) Was cheap to so happy about cost.

     

    But when I got home to reinstall it I noticed I got a 3K head gasket with the head :( So waiting on my engine builder now to get me a 5K one.

     

    As for my cam lifters popped them all out last night and looked at my lobes. I think my eyes were playing tricks on me. Cam has the little like oil mark triangles where lifter doesn't touch the cam to make it spin so they must be turning. But will still replace one lifter due to it looking like crap..LOL

     

    My engine builder told me today he can re-grind lifters and to bring old ones to him any time so I have 1.5 sets of 3F lifters now so can stop looking to buy more at RIDICULS prices..LOL

     

    But in other KE15 news I got annoyed that I didn't have a head gasket so I started getting into dash to find fault of intermittent electrics.

     

    First radio. FOund lose speaker connection. Fixed and AM 4KQ is on loud and proud again :)

     

    Secondly found enough tape to repair and float the titanic again under dash holding nothing in spots one wire here etc. Pulled all out under dash much neater now found one loose earth on fuse box and main cause of loss of electrical is loose connector on back on gauge cluster so have to remove this weekend to sort out also.

     

    So still achieved lots and hoping when motor gets back together it just works .....

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

     

    P.S. I shall post later about my new parts for the 5K I will build asap now and for a hint to all it is ignition parts :)

  6. yea use vice grips to remove the studs but bewarned, the sump gasket is very tricky to get on the timing chain cover!

     

    took me 20mins with gasket goo allover my hands

     

    20min DANG you need to do more cam changes..LOL

  7. Double nut :wink:

     

    BUT

     

    I find when putting timing cover back on I undo half the sump nuts on each side so it can flex down a bit jsut losen them off. Then I put front half of rubber seal that goes under timing cover in sump with string threaded around it.

     

    When putting cover on I touch the top of it against block first while slowly bringing the bottom towards the engine with the string work the seal POP and it is all sitting together. No leaks fast as about 30 seconds back together do up nuts and sump nuts.

     

    I find I can't do this trick with first half of sump nuts done up with out to much forcing and pullng on the seal. And that pulling could damage it ;)

     

    I find with above method no leaks oil free no mess :laff:

     

    DId it last week in my KE15 to ona cam chain so proven and done it many times before.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  8. Did you reface the lifters when you put in your new cam? Usually if the lifters aren't spinning the cam has lost its taper on the lobes from wear or not being run in properly.

     

    The long nosed plugs are bcpr527y-11 or bcpe527y-11 from memory. No there really isn't any variety of heat range available in that style of plug.

     

    hi,

    I got the cam and the lifters were brand new items I put 1000miles on the lifters and put my new cam in. I asked at cam grinder he said oh the lifters will be fine wont need new ones.....

     

    So hopping with new lifters this will be fixed. I could only see one from the il cap not turning when running so hopping ti is just the one. Might take a straight edge from work today to see if I have destroyed the lifters. Might have to get them re-ground.

     

    As for spark plugs cool :wink: I shall go looking for a set of them. Might start with the recomended 5 and see how they go and take it from there.

     

    Also as for my run in I did 30min above 2000RPM like you should again cam grinder told me to do that so should be run in fine.

     

    As for oil cooler site Ill have a look into there stuff.

     

    Also picked up more goods for the sprinter topday in the post so stay tunned :laff:

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  9. I know doesn't take much to warp an old alloy head ;)

     

    But in good news picked up some oil today new oil filter coolant and 4 new lifters. When I was running engine with rocker cover off noticed some lifters not spinning :wink: so went today to get some new 3F Toyota lifters from the local parts shop.

     

    Got the last 4 on the shelf (hasn't sold them since I bought the first lot to put in the 5K..LOL) so only enough to do 2 cylinders worth but WOW $15 each SHIT. Thinking I'll have to go the chev route for the next 5K build purely because there are more and there more on demand...LOL

     

    Also noticed when pulling my 5K head off that I was running BPR5EY spark plugs for a flat top K motor WTF..lol So need to change to proper plugs with the 7mm long tip BUT What is the plug number for these plugs? I need a normal number so I can match it to a colder plug seeing my head will come back shaved etc.

     

    But I also piced up this little beauty.

    post-1811-1277722345_thumb.jpg

    post-1811-1277722398_thumb.jpg

    post-1811-1277722438_thumb.jpg

    Yes it is a HKS K motor oil cooler plate thing. WIll need it for the next spiffy 5K I am building for the KE15. Is a thermo controlled one so lets oil warm before cooling think thermo stat is at 74 degrees C atm. But it is variable from a quick look I had. Came off a KP61 starlet in Japan with very low race KM can tell as it is also so clean..LOL

     

    So this will match up well with my oil cooler new in box I got at a swap meet for $20 :laff:. Is a factory ford one NOS like 3 years old some guy had so now just to get rubber hoses but there easy enough to get.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  10. Hi,

    Thanks for that info kangaroosa and Taz for the link :lol:

     

    Did some reading and found

     

    RX-7 s1 front inserts (1978-1980) are as follows:

    Body diameter: 38mm

    394mm collapsed

    576mm extended

     

    When I convert kangaroosa measurements there similar so we can be safe to use these.

     

    Now KE1X front inserts are as follows:

    Gabriel part number 44753

    Length extended: 690mm

    Length compressed: 490mm

    Body length: 428mm

    diameter of insert at narrowest part: 39.16mm

    Diameter of insert at top for locating nut: 41.40mm

     

    So if we do that maths KE1X shocks have 200mm total travel.

     

    RX7 s1 shocks have 182mm by my measurements or by Kangaroosa measurements: 180.975mm

     

    So this is similar to KE1X and is with in an inch of difference so this will suit :blinks:

     

    Extended length is 120mm shorter than KE1X items.

     

    Currently with my custom made springs and KE30 shocks I have 30mm TO much shock absorber travel.

     

    So this will take away that 30mm and compress the spring by 90mm.

     

    I am wondering if that is too much compression but initially? Thoughts?

     

    But I have ordered a cheap set of gabriel shocks for a RX-7 s1 brand new cost me $45 CHEAP old stock you see and tax time so places getting rid of stuff CHEAP..lol

     

    So I will trial fit them.

     

    If there good to go great if not I shall have to then look at MR2 shocks.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  11. Hello,

    Update time :lol:

     

    First off suspension: Not much progress here so nothing to post yet.

     

    So that then brings me to the other issues. From my large list I have managed to fix:

     

     

    - oil leak front harmonic balancer seal

    - badly want to put in an over flow catch tank for radiator (fun not having one but prob a very sensible thing to add does help)

    - drivers door hinge adjusted (I re-pinned but needs adjusting hard to close and not sitting right)

    - Install after market cam a KE70 4K-C cam is SHIT in a 5K

     

    So first off the oil leak. I did the cam at the same time as the leak so kill 2 birds one stone.

     

    The oil leak was coming from the front seal around the harmonic balancer. One day I went for a 100Km drive in the KE15 and used 3L of oil :dance: Made my engine bay black so I had enough. Time to get off ass and fix it. But I though why pull down car and not do the cam. As a KE70 cam shaft in a 5K made peak power at 4 grand. Car on the 100km/h speed limit with low ratio diff in 4th was sitting on 4 grand the car drank fuel and was a torque weapon down low but nothing past 4 grand :( So I took a spare cam to iven tighe and got it re-ground to 154 spec. Can be seen on their page below:

     

    http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

     

    This cam is the same grind as the 424 cam but with not as much lift so I don't need to change my valve springs :blinks: Made life easier.

     

    So got this ground and I took a spare 5K timing cover I owned to work and put it through the acid tanks cleaned it up like new :blinks:

     

    So then to install a new oil seal. Now this is what was causing the oil leak why you say...

     

    Well the 5K engine from factory has a thinner seal than a 3K or 4K motor. The seal also sits more forwards in the timing cover. So this motor once when new got all bed in with a 5K seal. Was re-built poorly (not by me) and they used the seal in the kit which was a 3K thick seal. This ran for a while but put an extra grove in the harmonic balancer :( So when I got the motor I saw this went oh not the right seal popped in a new 5K Toyota item.

     

    LEAK the correct seal not has this wide groove it can't seal due tot eh 3K seal making it wider and adding another grove :( So engine pumped out oil. So When cover was cleaned up I popped in a 3K seal and all fixed not one leak. I will also note I polished the harmonic balancer shaft a tad to ;)

     

    So cam went in and that fine and it was ready to bed in. Went well one minor water leak at first then all was good after fixing it.

     

    Cam went much better power starts at about 3750 RPM finishes at 7000RPM. so cam works great on the highway.

     

    I found idle bit rougher. With a KE70 4k-c cam in the 5K I was getting about 19-20 in of vacuum and with the bigger cam I now only get 11 inches :( But with old cam on the highway I would only pull 11 inches. Now with new cam WOW pulls 18 inches solid at 4000RPM so put foot down engine is running efficiently and zoom your gone. Car now goes off the speedo :blinks: Pretty quickly to I might add..LOL Car now pulls to 7 grand EASY as but the stock coil and ignition let it down starts to miss at high RPM :(

     

    So I fitted a Accel super coil 65,000 volts to the car I got from a swap meet told it was a good working coil. YEAH RIGHT. Coil you could hear it shorting out inside the coil car barely run and I could only get 11,000 volts from it max :( Stock coil gave me 20,000 Volts so removed coil got angry threw it in the bin. So still looking for a better coil now :(

     

    So while putting in a cam I also attached an overflow bottle made from a 600mL coke bottle :blinks: It works holds water etc etc.

     

    Now for the

     

    EPIC FAIL

     

    Last weekend while driving out to Beerheads place to see him I was cruising along at 100km/H and BOOM the loudest bang I have ever heard. And all of a sudden the heater in the car went cold OH SHIT. Middle of no where the heater hose blew a hole pumping out all my engine water instantly :( car temp sky rocketed. I was lucky as I was 1 street away from Beerheads place so was near water :blinks:

     

    Did a temp fix on hose at his place with some metal tube and more clamps.

     

    But below is a picture of the section of blown pipe:

    post-1811-1277558057_thumb.jpg

     

    This pipe I bought from Supercheap 3 weeks ago to install my heater again. Tube had no nicks, tears, damage etc. But still blew. Brand is Gromet and it is SHIT. Single wall piss weak re enforcing crap. :(

     

    So drove around for the week with the temp fix as well didn't leak etc. And on Friday just gone I decided to buy some better hose. I went to my mates shop he sells hydraulic line for trucks. I got 2 meters worth of hose suitable for hot fluids rated to 20 BAR at 100PSI. Should hold my 1.1Bar the KE15 has.

     

    So this morning I decided what better time to install my new hose. well was I in for a surprise :(

     

    I drained the coolant system and put in new hose clamped it up and then re-filled the coolant system. I noticed the drain bung in the bottom of my radiator had a slow drip leak ok have to fix that. But then I noticed a lot of White smoke coming from the exhaust :(.

     

    So ran got a piece of paper and held it at muffler tip for 1 min. No black particles on paper after 1 min or oil residue or oily smell. But paper was WET AS :( Ten it hit me I blew the head gasket when the motor over heated :( FAIL.

     

    so I went back tot eh engine and opened radiator cap yep every say second or so one small bubble would rise up :(

     

    So pissed as I stopped the car and got stuck into removing the head. I timed my self took me exactly 28 min 4 seconds to remove manifolds, carbies, extractors, ignition leads, spark plugs, rocker cover, and head. Was quite pleased with my self.

     

    To my surprise I found out this 5K I have is SHIT..lol In cylinder 3 just at bottom just above the piston at bottom dead centre like a section of the bore is missing :( But the head warped bad. cylinder 2 was squeaky clean from steam :( and it looked like in the past week after driving water pressure built up and pushed its way into cylinder 4 and would sit there. so it was a bit crap from thsi also :(

     

    So in short I need a new 5K built fast..LOL

     

    But for now I'll just fix cylinder head and re-install.

     

    So Rung my mate who owns Precision Engine Reconditioning in Ipswich and got a good deal on facing the head flat again, 4 angle valve grind, crack test, all cleaned up, and ported :dance:

     

    Head will be due back on this coming wed if all goes well :dance:

     

    So this week my goal is to clean up the block neat as and get the engine running again by the weekend.

     

    I am just so pissed this car has been running shit than great than shit then great JUST WORK DAM IT..lol

     

    Well I shall keep you all posted on progress hope car goes again after I put the head on.

     

    So now it is also time to get into top gear on building my 5K for this motor and collecting parts :dance:

     

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  12. hey Cameron, I have 2 new kyb rx7 series 1 dampers if you need any measurements,

    they were part of an old front end setup that i have now upgraded from...

    will have a look for them in the next week

     

     

    YES. Would be AWESOME if you could have a look at least I know they do fit..LOL

     

    I take it this front end was in a KE2X?

     

    Was it lowered at all?

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  13. I'll see what I can do for you. One of my friends is building a S1 race car.

     

    To be honest I reckon you'd be better off converting to the whole S1 strut rather than trying to slip some RX7 konis* into a corolla strut. S1 front brakes aren't too bad and would be a decent upgrade for you KE1X.

     

    *assuming this is why you're looking at them?

     

     

    Heheheh

     

    Yes I am looking at using these shocks in my KE15. But need to know meassurements diameter and max length are really the MOST needed.

     

    Would be awesome if you can find info from your mate.

     

    Cameron

     

     

    P.S. That rotor forum your on does it have info?

  14. Quick reply.

     

    Got a clutch.

     

    I got a sports tuff KE70 kit the button clutch kit with more clamping force and that but got a stock KE1X clutch plate thrown in :lol:

     

    Was $210. Think thats a good price..LOL

     

    So now to get bolts to attach the clutch to the flywheel :blinks:

     

    http://www.probolt-australia.com/Home

     

    This flywheel will one day end up behnd my hot 5K which might happen sooner than later after probably destroying the 5K in my KE15 today :blinks:

     

    Cameron

  15. Hi,

    Been looking around now and so far have come up with nothing.

     

    What I am searching for is the measurements for RX-7 shock absorbers for series 1.

     

    What I am after is:

    Length compressed:

    Length uncompressed:

    OD of insert:

    thread on end of insert:

    length of insert body:

     

    If anyone knows this info any of it I would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  16. If you also look at the shape of a TRD inlet port ona TRD head and how much there ground out with out the plate you can't run stock manifolds even a big port one you would grind right through the manifold and can't weld them thicker as bolts wont hold them on as metal would be in the way so the extra port length gave more freedom.

     

    There are also 2 different lengths of TRD up right manifold depending on the tune you bought for them. In a KE1X Id go for the short ones as you need the room.

     

    Also up righting the engine gave much better flow back to the sump for oil. As after racing the KE15 around pop the rocker cover off and you will see a great example of how about 1L of oil sits in the back of the head over cylinder 4..LOL

     

    But TRD also then matched a HEAP of extra parts to the up right kit. FOr instance they addeda cam driven oil pump for a dry sump the dry sump you could buy was cast so the bottom of it was flat when motor was up righted etc.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  17. My TRD parts book for the year 2001 list a relabeled TODA fly-wheel as a TRD item. They did that to their shocks, CDI units etc and I bet a TRD one would be harder to get..LOL

     

    But for an update on the thread...

     

    Ordered a KE70 heavy duty sports clutch kit today and a KE1X clutch stock OEM clutch disk :jamie: Should be in the shop tomorrow.

     

    I rang exeedy but and got individual part numbers for the K motor clutch parts so you can ring and order them I'll dig the note out of my wallet later and post them for further reference and could stick them in the FAQ.

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  18. auction house in japan.

     

    Jun still make them new can order one here for posted and all for $1500 AU I worked out after contacting them and that etc. And at that rate it would be worth more than the car itself..LOL

     

    TODA have stopped making K fly wheels.

     

    Cameron

     

    That price I got was at AU$1 = 70 yen

  19. As for TRD mounts he uses AE86 rubber with DIY up rights nothing special.

     

    As for the engine possibly a class thing, He mentions economy in a post so possibly that also a 5K in Japan might be hard to get I don't know can't say for sure. But from my view a 5K would of been the better option.

     

     

    Cameron

  20. Actually I meant He did run a 4 speed. He has not put a 5 speed in it as of the 16th of this month.

     

    Use google translator you can read his blog about it.

     

    Does enduro racing with it 24 hour evens. And he still tuned the car to 140HP not bad for a 4K that runs 24hr straight ina race.

     

    Cameron

  21. YAY no touching of unwanted part.

     

    KE70 clutch pressure plate fits over stock KE1X clutch disk easy as no interfering with other parts :jamie:

     

    Think I am liking option one Taz that is what I was thinking I have to see my guy tomorrow arvo to see what I can order and ill get the clutch :jamie:

     

    Also noticed when I pulled the clutch off the KE17 (original clutch still on motor ) on the 6 bolts retaining the flywheel they all had a locking plate that they screwed on top of and the tabs bent up over the bolts. Has anyone else seen this before? As in all my time the cars I have removed motors from K ones that is and that never seen this. Might of been a factory thing. But locktie is jsut as good..LOL

     

    Cheers

    Cameron

  22. http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/kira_jidousya/fol...ml?m=lc&p=1

     

    There is the web page for the KE10.

     

    I clicked around a heap and got to the shop that built that 4K doesn't look to extreme an engine build from what I could tell his tacho stops at 6 grand and runs an early KE2X/3X gear bos so dare say low ratio diff pulls great down low gets to max RPM fast that is how he did it.

     

    But well done gives me inspiration.

     

    Cameron

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