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Posts posted by camerondownunder88
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So weekend rolls around time to do more tidying up to car and fix all the little things wrong with it.
First cab off the rank today is a few added factory options.
Being into MTB riding and that I am usually dragging a bike in and out of the back of this thing or other big bulky items. So I saw in the factory options list the corolla could come with a factory scuff guard. So one was placed on order and showed up and installed. Pictures below:
Before snapping picture I had used boot and mat so yes got it dirty straight away and is great to use. Just flick it out and over bumper keepng car safe :)
After that the stock car carpet in these things is CRAP. Mine isnt worn out but its that plastic backed rubbish stuff. Doesnt feel good under foot.
So I ordered a full set of OEM car matts for the car. Much better feel factory clips to hold to floor and they fit perfectly so I got a set of them some snaps below:
Front passenger
Passenger Rear:
Rear Boot:
NOTE: This mat your saying looks....wrong...It is, I got a wagon mat. They are longer and farly well fit hte sides. Reason is when seats are laid down mat goes over it a bit protecting back of seat from pedals dirt etc from stuff and bikes so is big. Also the bumper scuff guard is under mat with tab that hangs over it to pull out in a hurry.
After fitting new mats and bumper protector I fitted a new air con system filter/pollen filter. The South African ZZE123 when delivered to Australia the air con was never "fitted" This was a part of the package the dealer had to fit when car arrived on shore. This was due to this model being a "global design" and what ever country took shipment of ride was "kitted" to spec for their country.
Problem is I removed glove box and noticed the filter tray was NON EXISTANT......So First thing to do was find a tray....Looked in a few of these at wreckers etc all cars had tray missing. Some had a plastic blanking plate some had NOTHING like my car. So picture below of my unit missing tray:
Problem is when your missing tray fan turns and air PUMPS out this slot thus blowing on back of glove box and getting shit air flow from vents.
So next port of call was to buy new. The Australian parts book for this car DIDNT list a tray. So after soem research I found the JDM parts book part number for a tray and ordered it in. Toyota wanted a FORTUNE for the filter so I got a Bosch item to suit. Snap below:
NOTE: Tray is pictured with ANOTHER filter froma camry. This filter was a test. They are to thick and not the right size. How ever camry filter was PERFECT size for hole in unit so could slide into dash fan filter slot throw tape over front you have filter if you want to avoid getting a tray.
But instead I got filter to fit tray:
This filter has foam edge to seal it so all air is forced through the filter material.
Need less to say after fitting filter and tray and sealing fan unit the AIR flow INCREASE through the vents was HUGE. Air con thus worked better etc etc and air was filtered. Best little tidy up I have done :)
Till next update :)
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2zzge...
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HOLLY SMOKES $550 3 core.....
I had a worked 5K in my KE15. I fitted a 3 core radator $300.
USed stock radator my local radator shop buys in the 3 core stuff solders it in adds a metal drain cock in bottom and welds a bracket on for me for a overflow can and tests it for me.
The 3 core I asked once he gets it from ADRAD.
In my KE15 and my KE11 where I did this I had to take off radator top pannel slide radator down in front of the support and using long bolts/studs screw into car and using nuts space radator. This stopped the radator hittinf fan as they become thicker. May have a picture but easy mod. NEVER got over temp was great.
But at $550 to do that walk away. And last one I had doen was only 7 ish months ago. So price shouldnt have changed that much.....But I do supply a good core to make intoa 3 core radator....
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Well Time for updates:
Since this Weekend is a long Easter weekend I have spent some time doing a fair few things to the car as I needed study breaks and have a fair few updates for the thread.
But First update today is a simple easy mod of a higher pressure radiator cap.
Stock 2zz motor has a cap with a pressure rating of 0.9kg/cm^2
TRD cap has a rating of 1.3kg/cm^2
If you want to have a read of what the higher pressure does to the engine coolant temps etc have a read here:
Good simple site to explain its function.
So Along with the cap I installed a new water pump OEM Toyota. 2zz are known for chewing through idler arms and water pumps from what I have researched...And sure enough both of mine hit 160,000km and are both on last legs. Idler rattles and belt slips and water pump through inspection hole on front pulley is starting to weep red coolant. I have seen 2zz pumps weep then over night just let go so while doing cap I did pump. So cooling system has new Toyota coolant, new OEM water pump and a new TRD cap. This will keep temps down on race day.
Driving to work I have never seen temps move off the normal spot on stock dash gauge but on race day can get up a bit. So after this mod and more which I shall post soon cooling won't be of a concern for a while :)
Few pictures below of radiator cap:
Cap:
Before:
After:
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Sure can. Just have to enlarge holes on chassis rail wherew box bolts on then presto its in.
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Another huge update tonight plus other general bits for metallica fans
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For reference...Two different length steering shafts are to be found in KE1X cars.
Learnt this hard way after rebuilding a steering box new bearings etc I used a shoft shaft....
So ou need to have long shaft and wheel and indicator assy to suit or short and short stuff to suit.
Pain in the ass really..lol
But long and short shafts in steering boxes can be swapped EASY...As worm geear DOES fail in these items so good to be done keep cars steering safely.
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BUMP again listing more parts items in my sale list get in fast:
http://www.ebay.com....=p2047675.l2562
Cheers
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At a quick look id say the aircon pulley has shat its self.
The clutch you are holding in the photos is on the front. If you have this there is probably only hopes and dreams holding the pullet on the bearing with belt.
Clutch will be sold as an assembly new pullet bearing etc. Id graba whole new assembly. Probably wont be cheap but hit up Toyota dealer and haggle.
Cameron
P.S. Throw up some pics of the engine bay for us.
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You need to install electric front quarter vent windows so you feel at home!
Yeah one of the first cars I have owned with no 1/4 vent windows :( feels weird.... So this must be changed LOL
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Good Thinking Dave. However with my lack of sewing skills I didnt pick up at school in year 8 it would take me longer. I have a plan but to fix this problem ;)
But Update time.
I do a lot of bike riding so once I get car nice adn clean etc I want to keep it that way for as long as possible. So instead of putting dirty bikes in car I took oportunity the other day ot fit a full set of roof racks and bike mount for the car.
I compaired a few brands and at the end of the day can't beat Thule. So I bought up. I got the new black anodized aero bars with feet and mount kit and one Pro ride roof rack so I don't have to take off wheels and then car will fit MTB and BMX in a matter of seconds.
So for those playing at home the mount kit for this model corolla is: 1205 This is for corolla 4dr sedan, SPortivo and RunX hatch. from 2000 till 2006.
Pics for enjoyment.
Above pic is before install.
Above is the roof with just the roof racks installed.
With racks and bike mount on side.
And another pic complete.
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Well long story short. I was driving around in my QNC21 Toyota bB import and decided I want to get back into a KE corolla. So I found a KE11 rusted to hell and back in a back yard cheap. Bought it restored it (well cut out rust) drove it daily loved it. But decided I want something a tad newer for the daily since I had a KE15 sprinter and not a corolla. Well I went looking for something A) Cheap, B) Fairly easy on the service and reliable C)Bland D) didn't care what it was.
So I started looking around Camry, i20, subis anything.....Till I stumbled upon THIS car. It is a 2005 Toyota Sportivo with 160,000km on it. Factory serviced till 120,000Km and smelt like a really good curry had been once cooked IN THE CAR. SO after grabbing a meal (made me hungry) and leaving it a few days I made an offer and it was accepted by the seller YAY!.....So after thinking I won't get a corolla...I'm straight back into one.
So car as it sits:
2005 Toyota Corolla Sportivo ZZE123R.
South African made
Engine:
- 2zz-ge
- Fitted Solid engine mounts.
Sub Engine Systems:
Cooling:
- TRD Radator cap 1.3kg/cm^2
- Radator Cooling pannel to control air flow into radator
Fuel System:
- TRD fuel cap installed
Ignition System:
- Stock
Air Intake:
- Stock
Exhaust:
- Stock
Driveline:
- Stock 6 speed close ratio box
- Solid Brass shifter cable bushings added
- Factory TRD shifter installed on solid mounts
- TRD light weight resin gear knob
Suspension:
- Stock struts
- Added Ultra Brace mid point brace on inside of car
- Factory Rear TRD strut brace
- Factory Front TRD strut brace
- Laile Front Preformance bar/brace
Brakes:
- APP braided brake lines installed
Body:
- Added Thule Roof racks with one bike mount
- BAD PARTS TO FIX: Shabby with parts missing ie: fog light.
Interior:
- Factory optional floor mats fitted.
- Factory optional boot/bumper scuff guard
- Factory optional TRD sports pedal set
- BAD PARTS TO FIX: Stiching in drivers seat come apart, missing plastic door in centre console, small hole in rear seat and more etc.
Electrical:
- SUPER LIGHT WEIGHT LiPo Battery Fitted
- Factory 6 stack has dead volume knob, drivers side guard indicator blown bulb parker lights don't work blown.
Wheels:
- Rota Mini lite knock offs wrapped in RE002 Bridgestone tires
So Pics of the car the day I picked it up:
Above pic shows the COOL side reflector things car has.
Front of car. Can see drivers side fog light missing.
Missing side skirt pic :(
TRD badge :) This must mean it has factory fitted gear knob in Australia.
So first venture into FWD corollas. Has a few more kW than the old modded 4K KE11 so fun car to sit in traffic in and makes for a good cruiser. Plans are to more or less keep it NEAT reliable and enjoyable and functional. But I am a big fan of using all the car options from the horn to the last digit on the speedo and tacho. So while being daily driven I want to become a better driver and KNOW what the car can do and see what mods ACTUALLY do being positive or a negative change. So expect to see some track sessions with car and we'll see how it goes.
After getting it home but I gave it a wash and a MAJOR service. I Changed engine oil, changed all THREE engine oil filters, Changed gearbox oil, changed air filter, changed coolant, changed engine drive belt, removed rocker cover checked cam clearance, Flushed brake fluid and replaced, Flushed clutch fluid and replaced, Flushed power steering fluid and replaced and replaced window washer water sent for a wheel alignment and rotation I also replaced parker light bulbs adn head light bulbs and side indicator bulb. So a full comprehensive service. Car I find not to hard to work on. Being south African made most items have become lose and rattle so I have spent time during service replacing clips glues rubbers etc so car doesn't rattle as much. For the service either OEM fluids/parts used or good quality Penrite full synthetic oils used etc.
So I plan to mod one section of the car at once so I don't have 17 unfinished random projects on it and a mountain of parts laying around my shed. However as we all know late night internet searches can lead you into buying parts and not thinking so we'll see how we go. So anything missing Ill see if I can replace with a better item if not OEM and well make it a complete car.
So first target will be the body. The body has seen better days and with parts missing looks shabby as and for a daily I want neat. Not show car but neat. So on a quick walk around car is missing: Drivers side skirt, Fog light, Guard liners, engine under tray/stone shield, dent on fuel cap door, scratches here and there, clips missing to hold bonnet rod and washer lines in and yellow head lights. Along with neat after spending some time on Google images I found with few small additions these cars can look pretty trick. So I want to track down a pair of C-one wing tips for rear spoiler and mag wheels one day. However I really like the stock wheel so I may never get mags.
Now the scratches in the paint are small and with a good wax and wash not in that order they fade away If I get any serious body work done Ill probably get light touch ups done but for now scratches aren't deep no rust so they will be left. Scratches and a small dent on passenger front guard look like car park dents. I will be driving this daily so I am not too worried about these.
So first things first I want to track down a driver's side skirt and assorted factory clips to hold it in place. As car looks bare without it. Clips Ill get part numbers and order from Toyota. I know the side skirts varied a lot throughout the Tivo's model range. The Levin has different skirts to the Tivo's etc. So I will need to find an update Tivo side skirt this could prove hard.
Along with side skirt clips for the washer lines and bonnet rod and other things will be sourced from a wrecker.
I have found guard liners always seem to be removed or destroyed on cars at wreckers so these I shall source NEW OEM items for. Not the biggest fan of non genuine parts WITH some exceptions....
Fog light. Well my Tivo is an update model. This being so the fog lights went from rectangle items to nice round units. I have NOT been able to find one at a wrecker or on ebay so this item will be ordered NEW OEM. Big hole in front bumper makes me nervous.
Car has minimal factory options so I will also talk to Toyota see what I can order and get on the car also.
But after I got car home I gave it a quick wash and snapped these pics again. Enjoy:
Above pic shows the busted glove box latch. Will need attention ASAP
Rear of car. Looks a tad bland I think spoiler tips will fix this
Side of car. TO think these sit lower than a base model corolla. Also pulled off reflector thing on door. Will wait for glue and sticky tape to perish in sun and slowly remove residue with minimal chemicals etc.
Drivers side. Can see missing skirt again looks extra bland
Rear seat. Thik of the possible kids in the world that exist thanks to this rear seat.......
Front seat. The steering wheel cover is SOOOO dangerous. Doesnt grip wheel well and wheel turns INSIDE of it. Dangerous so getting removed ASAP. Steering wheel leather 100% missing so will need new steering wheel replacment.
Engine BROOM.....
So watch this thread as I venture into the world of late model blandness and FWD antics and see what happens.
Cameron
- 2zz-ge
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Hi,
I'm selling all my parts collection as a few know and due to moving etc have started jsut listing a lot of it on ebay as it is easier.
Updated frequently grab an item cheap make an offer etc...
Here is link:
http://www.ebay.com....=p2047675.l2562
Cheers
Cameron
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If lag puts you off turbos Just hyper charge the car. Engine is at idle while turbo is at full power/boost.
Those F1 turbos but I wont lie get me excited. The pure design having a copper winding on a turbo shaft doing 100,000RPM and a shaft THAT LONG the bending dynamics in it DAM! Nice peice of kit there. But ah will be another 5 years till road cars see that technology... :(
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Yeah I did jsut throw up soem turbo sizes from my butt there.
But the WRX turbo the old T04 look around can be had CHEAP so yeah go forth and look.....
Cameron
P.S.
I say cheap as most WRX guys want to upgrade so from a turbo repair shop I got an overhauled wrx turbo for $50 once never used since rebuild so look hard they are out there. But I think a turbo K car turbo is probably one of the cheapest parts lol
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Doesn't mean you have to ditch the idea altogether. The setup Cameron its talking about is almost exactly like your original picture except with the turbo orientated correctly.
Exactly don't ditch it...Run turbo normal orientation a nice small CT12a or other GT15 garret sized turbo will tuck in nicely. Can be done ;)
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You gotta be kidding Cameron! 72L/min! Holy sh*t that is the whole sump-full going through there every handful of seconds. It would be used as a coolant by the turbo and then you'd need an oil cooler for the motor...
Well, now I see why people don't do it, a cute idea that needs a complete redesign of a turbo before it works.
Next project!
And the Turbo Is BRAND new to so not worn. A large turbo that has no water jacket also uses oil for cooling so a LOT of oil flows through them and fast. I run turbo in normal orientation and on the turbo oil drain I have to run an air/oil seperator as foamy oil is hard to deal with. Setup was backed up by a nice 12 row oil cooler.
The temp of oil on the drain was 82 degrees C and it was going in around half that.
Also the pressure AT the turbo charger inlet when hot was also 100PSI hard.
Oil is the life blood of a turbo its only got to fail for a second at full boost and good bye turbo so mine is fairly bullet proof system.
Also should be noted I don't use engine oil pump to supply turbo have an external electric pump.
Also my turbo setup isnt in a car :P
Cameron
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A turbo charger has oil fed under pressure this goes into the thrust bearing and brass bush and gets lubricated. This would work fine sitting vertical. Once oil pressure up thrust face isn’t touching anything it is floating on film of oil.....
Problem lays in the drain.
Turbos need gravity to drain the oil. The oil comes out at a huge rate and I know for a fact Garret GT40 turbo I’m pushing 72L/min of oil through the turbo. Its hot foamy and the scavenge pump needed to shift oil would be a nightmare sourcing hooking up etc. Problem is most Garret turbos run the thrust bearing behind the compressor wheel. The rear Turbine shaft usually has two piston rings that seal the turbine end that’s it. When not spinning with oil pressure this can weep some oil and when oil is hot ANY oil sitting in housing tipped up runs out through the seals and smokes/burns on turbine wheels causing early failure.
So short answer NO can’t run a turbo charger like this.
Have a look at the KE15 turbo on here the red one has a nice hidden turbo setup could get ideas from.
Cameron
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One on gum tree IS NOT AN SL or SE sprinter its jsut a sprinter body with mods and that.
Id steer clear.
Real SL's had twin carbs, lighter fly wheel, more duration on cam shaft, higher compression head, different gear ratio on 3rd gear, a centre console, extra brackets weld in floor of car, extra badges, steering wheel, and more.
This one yeah id be careful.
Saying that other week I bought a cheap KE11. I cut out rust new seats new engine new radator 3 core etc etc etc all the works. Drove it to work EVERY day didnt miss a beat was a good car but paint rough etc few bad things I sold it for over 4K. But it was reliable and things that needed doing DONE. Just didnt look the best lol
So worth what you will pay and if seller will part with it. And if it is mechanicly reliable and well done for the age worth a few K. But if its rough changed engine numbers etc etc be selective.
Cameron
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New week new bits....link below to one hit my other items for more.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281510810288?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
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Added a heap of NEW items on my ebay get in fast have a look here is link to one item
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281501548199?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Cameron
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Added more stuff now even GENUINE HKS K motor stuff get in fast
Cheap Semi Slicks In Ipswich Qld
in eBay Items
Posted
Bought to go on my new zze123. Was going to switch to a 15" rim....But got a set of 16" rims at a to good a price.
These tires are NEW condition got to make room in my none existant shed lol
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nankang-semi-slicks-NS-2R-195-50ZR15-/281672982112
Get in fast