camerondownunder88
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Posts posted by camerondownunder88
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^^^ Above sprinter a few years back was for sale in carsales in Brisbane so good to see a local snapped it up....
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I have push rods to suit that head some where....PM me.....
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Told you they were big !
Can see how TRD made a 3K scream to crazy numbers now with how they prep their heads...But This one is even better its a TRD 5K head that will be boosted :)
Now stop playing Datto's and start KE11 building lol
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Yes there are different steering shafts in KE1X cars.....I have a home made on a lathe boss kit that came in a KE11 I bought stock wheel spline turned down fitted to aluminium etc Worked. But yes shafts are different
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You will see it when it arrives...Its a work of art the ports they are MASSIVE.....Photos still don't even do it justice.
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I think it will like the new owner.......Prob should pull a valve out CAD one up so if you do BUST one you could remake one ;)
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HI,
No real detail on if it was an SL from factory from VIN.
SL the real difference was in the engine few pictures might shed some light on it.
What is your location?
Cheers
Cameron
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Hi,
Ill be with Tenny0 here got my KE11 rear bar re chromed through him old school nothing flash but does GOOD work. Charged me $200 for my rear KE11 bar. I stripped it for him and at my work put it through a sodium hydroxide bath so made his work a bit easier so say $250 a bar is his price.
But worked fast was 2 days turn around for me and i have since used him again :)
Cameron
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don't let that rust put you off. Id carefully get steel and weld away. A lot of work there but I jsut replaced nearly whole passenger side of KE11. Had snapped off seat mounts flintstone floor mod and more. Some nice long 3mm thick strip down inside refold sheet for sill new seat mounts few days on a mig...tacked all in the slowly laid beads of weld down. Ridgid car now adn passed road worthie in QLD again and now its back on road. So really depends on your resources how much you can do etc etc. But anythings saveable.
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So I'm running a 5K with a 3K/4K Points Dizzy. I have a new GT40 coil but was told it was the wrong coil for her.
My understanding of the above is that the GT40 with no ballast resistor is correct for her. Is this correct?
If your STOCK KE1X look is STOCK then ditch the resistor.
Reasons for balast resistor is at cranking car will drop around 9 volts there is usually a wire from starter system to the coil bypassing the resistor. So as cranking gets 9V. When you start and key is off and starter disengaged then the direct power feed cut and power then goes 12V through resistor then it drops to 9V and coil runs.
Resistor coils are designed to work best at the lower voltage. This is so when cranking spark is still HOT. IF they worked BEST at 12V when cranking would be weak spark.
KE1X loom is simple and bugger all relays (apart from horn in late models) and thus run a 12V non resistor coil.
Reason why I run a CDI is as stated above drops the amps through the points thus they last FOREVER. I found after 6 months the rubbing block on points had worn away so had to reset dwell etc so ditched points for electronic dizzy. But thinking about going back as I have a cam in daily KE11 and electronic dizzy has a shocking advance curve for it.
Cameron
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Hi,
My 3cents...
Was said in first post all 3k/4/ units are designed for use with ballast resistor...
KE1X cars never had a balast resistor stock so their coils like 12v no resistor out of box.
Later coils need to run at the dropped 9V.
Also I run a stock 5K electronic dizzy with stock KE1X coil and a mmmm its like a 6AL MSD unit running it in side cabin. 16 sparks at idle per cyclinder and those cheap little spark tests where you wind out the points and arc a gap telling you spark voltage I wind it all the way out and still throw the spark across so thats also a good option. Runs a stock tacho dash in the KE11 and gives better ignition with no coil issues....yet...more energy=more heat I'm sure coils warm but does 1000km a week so far so good 6 months on.
Cameron
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Early ke30's DID come out with a 2 speed auto, and yes the output spline between the early and late 2 speed auto's are different,
cheers!
Well ill be dammed...2speed ina KE30. Never knew this but good to know thanks for the correction.
Looks like it is an easy yoke change and were on the road again
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HKS did a fully counterbalanced item and I think TRD did from what I know.....
Was used in the twin cam 3K. On back of TRD catalougs can some times spot it with the exploded picture of a 3K twin cam.
Making one?
Cameron
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I know early KE1X and KE2X had a different drive shaft to later model cars.
KE30 came out with the 3 speed auto.
Dare say it is get a 3speed box or see if you can adapt a smaller early KE1X yoke to late model drive shaft. Will handel less power and 3speeds are every where so dare say wont fit.
Cameron
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can be sealed BUT hard...
Other month I put a NEW seal in front timing cover and a machined front pulley all restored etc and still get a small leak from there in my 3K in the KE11.
MANY MANY points in a k motor kinda leak/weap over the years Toyota changed stuff over the years to improve it and that. Takes some work but by removing fuel pump running external one resealing sump with OEM gasket etc and lapping surfaces and that a nice clean K motor can be assembled and run. Mine isnt spot on needs a new rear seal but other wise a few drips from front seal its pretty dry....
flogged 5k in my KE15 thats a nother story...I check fuel level at a servo and refill the oil..lol
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^^^ Sure is. The dished piston 4K push rods fit straight into a 5K with solid lifters....RARE AS ROCKING HORSE POO...
BUT
If you look some where in my KE15 thread I worked out I can run 3F (stock 5K also) lifters with off top of head 3K push rods with large cup machined down. Running adjustable 4K rockers on steel KE70 rocker posts rockers will need a LARGE radius put in them and the back end ground away THEN since adjuster is so far out top of rocker cover has to be die grinded away OR run an old K one has less ribs and presto FITS :) So witha grinder a few old 4K's and that can work and hey seen well over 8000RPM in my KE15 and never bent a rod or blown a ground down rocker so PARTY on... And this way don't need to get heavy as sin chev lifters with hard to get/expensive push rods. I used all stock stuff :)
And as a thrird option. Take stock hydro lifter remove guts drop the seat push rod sits in all way to bottom of lifter. Use 4K push rods and 4K rockers DONE also. Reason I coulldnt do this is I destroyed a set of solid lifters and a nice cam :(
Cheers
Cameron
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Id say something from a Diesel alt that has the vac pump on back. Bosch make a few and knowing how there mounts are similar possibly a few housing mods and be bolt on.
But the nitty gritty part....A) I'm getting close but sealing up a K motor is HARD work..lol But my ke11 nearly has a clean bay and has gone 10,000km and hasnt needed oil top up :)
B) low friction rings. I take it the engine your building is for racing. Most K motor stuff be run of the mill STD rings. Id say a nice set of custopm made ones would match but big $$$.
C) running vac set ups on V8's can net say 50HP....K motor...has about 50HP new lol So marginal gains....for a lot of ucking around.
Not to discourage you I have always though of the idea love to try it on a K motor never had a dyno or time etc...So go for it Ill be watching to see results.
Cheers
Cameron
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Hi,
KE1X cars only came out with a K40.
Have the shifter right up high on the extension housing.
Ratios were the same.
Cameron
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Dayammm! That's the best one I've heard of in years! The problems change as it moves a bit an you can't see what is wrong...
Yep I think installer drove pin home cocked off to side a bit bolted up cam and it had a weak spot and SNAP. And torque of bolt just couldnt handel it. Have the old lumpy stick in the shed. Needs a regrind as when it was shifting destroyed some of the lash ramps and peaks of the cams and the face e sprocket meets with isnt "flat" any more so needs a dress in a lathe. But yeah from a glance could see NOTHING wrong. Apart from my timing and car runnign like CRAP. So pin can go yes.
Cameron
P.S. Like TRD KEaid I still think you have an electrical issue....id head for coil and dizzy. Do you run a new dizzy cap? Also run a tacho? I had a cheap 2 inch tacho in a KE30 and it was shorting on the inside made for a few miss f so even try removing things to reduce the amount of problem spots to try to solve issue.
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Hi,
Are you in the Brisbane area?
I usually use the Toyota method as follows:
1. Slide in new cam shaft (if you got it reground)
2. Attach thrust plate to hold in cam. Making sure mark on front of thrust plate is on LOWER side closest to crank.
3. Align pin of cam shaft with mark on thrust plate.
4. Grab large cam sprocket and the little mark or some have the TEQ logo stamped on it align this mark with the bright chain link.
5. gram small sprocket align the timing dot on it with other painted chain mark.
6. slide both gears and chain onto cam and crank at same time.
7. Torque and beer.
Now if you need a straight edge that goes from crank dot to cam pin and then to large timing wheel dot use dip stick if not bent. Simple
Also another tip if your timing chain has ONE coloured link easy hold by that link let gravity do its work and link that is lowest to ground grab niko pen colour. Color is up to users choice. Can recoment a whte one.
Remember crank goes around twice for one reveloution of cam so chain is divide by two and links at end are the half way/alignment links.
Also when removing a cam useless fact cyclinder head bolts are the same thread and LONG great for screwing in a tad and giving a nice hand grip to SLLIDE the cam straight out the block.
As for the high cam badge on car..Marketing. Same as all K motors. nothing flash. Was to try and dress the 4k's up as having a high up cam like an over head cam right???lol
Also photo two of yours above hard for me to see BUT to me it looks like your large cam gear is adjustable :S if I'm correct you will need a degree wheel and some wire to dial this in and can be used for "fine" tuning a cam. Not really for a beginner. But hey we all have to learn so if it is think of it as more skill building.
Cameron
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Cool...
Also should note chain dampener is the flat long metal one not the spring loaded one.
If gap is over 13.5mm from face of metal housing to back of tensioner show then yeah worn. Worth doing as you said $70 for peace of mind worth it.
Grooves in the shoe keen to see pictures. As new shoes have some grooves moulded into them to guide the chain a but so some grooving is ok excessive then bad..lol
Cheers
Cameron
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Hi,
Just read over your topic and have you re-installed a new chain yet? What change was noted?
After reading it I'm keen to know what the change was as I feel your problem ISNT the timing chain.
I once had a K motor the 1L OLD KE10 engine. It made a HORID noise when running. It was the timing chain hitting the cast aluminium housing it had streched THAT much. Was a single row also. Reason I eventually swapped the motor (was easier than timing chain) old K motor developed an oil leak...where...from the timing cover where the chain hit it that much wore down then cracked it....The whole time this was happenign car did NOTHING like that. I just turned dizy did best tune I could engine ran FINE.
How ever I have had a few similar things happen to my KE15 once was a snapped cam shaft other time was coil issues on ignition system.
So cam shaft issue. Bought a 5K put in my KE15 was told rebuilt. So poped a new dizzy on after engine swap and car was out like 15 degress...mmm funny. Electronic dizzy due to cast of housing can only be retarded so much. So at full retard I couldnt even get factory spec. So I pulled out dizzy re aligned mmm no go....So got a points dizzy put in forced it to factory timing. Car started great....Try to drive. DAM got over 2000RPM power drop then push rods 1 got bent. So fixed rod though ah tune is out. Drove again back fired through carby while driving no power once warm wouldnt start after turning off only JUST start when cold.
So out comes cam...I found the pin in the front of the cam shaft had sheered. With nut on big timing gear couldnt see this. But gear was slipping on cam. I fixed issues with other things and then slipped more and problem got worse. So not a "worn" timing chain but when removing it cam was out equivelent about 2 teeth. But I played with SO many sub systems engine did run....Not well. So see if anything is broken...
The second time was an ignition coil. After a few RPM car would miss pop out carby lose power then be fine get hot and stop etc.
Coil was jsut STUFFED. was an original coil put a new one on ran like a dream so id be tempted to go dizzy also. Check the earth strap on advance plate. Seen many they contact when stopped but is actually broken. As dizzy advances comes apart car pops and stalls so lose vac advance or if you put foot flat on go pedal dizzy retards wire touches bang engine runs. OR seen many a seized dizzy advance plate from no one putting lube on them when serviceing so is dizzy advancing properly. Earthing out etc.
To me seems electrical. But am keen to see what your new chain does.
But a side note Toyota do have a few limits to determine the wear on a K motor timing chain they are:
When installed the gap from front of tensioner housing to back face of the rubber shoe is NO MORE than 13.5mm when 10kg of pulling force is pulled on chain at link in middle of tensioner.
ALSO
With chain removed with 5kg pulling force max limit is 272.7mm
To find wear on sprockets throw chain around small one so rollers fill the sprocket and throw micrometer over it diameter should be 59mm for large cam sprocket limit is 114mm.
Also thickness limit on tensioner shoe is 12.0mmso from front of shoe to back face of shoe with vernier.
Chain damper thickness limit is 4mm.
So with those messurements see what you go. Might find chain is still good. Id definatly go dizzy issue then.
Cheers
Cameron
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two carbs both the same.
Operate like a single.
Jets were smaller in twins.
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For a jack I went at first got a cheap supercrap jack..Bought biggest they had was like 3T. Corolla was 600kg so did job FINE. But when jacking really heavy cars used to slowly sink DOWN...so it died after about a year.
So I was actually on the Snap on truck at work...4Ton trolley jack lowest setting was about 70mm lifted to over half a meter light as had the rapid pump was about 3 pumps from all down to all up with no load AND was in promo so got 2 free axle stands with jack for $400. Still workign love it. ALso when I bough this got me in comp to win a snap on massive rattle gun...AND I WON..lol so find a snap on truck do a deal if you ever have issues drop it back take another one and they had smaller jacks cheaper to so don't also have to spend $400 so migth be worth a look.
Cameron
Massive Ke1X Nos Listing And More
in eBay Items
Posted
Hi,
Still selling off ALL my corolla parts. Got so much to go I have started listing on Ebay now along with on my for sale thread here.
So if keen jump on my ebay have a look always will be some nice gear up there.
Link:
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/camerondownunder88/m.html?item=281448018651&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
Cheers
Cameron