camerondownunder88
-
Posts
1683 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by camerondownunder88
-
-
Hi,
Need some mind power by some gurus on here to help me with my idle issue...
The other day was driving my KE11 and when crusing down a road at any speed if I jumped off the noise pedal car would pop a bit (so lean out pops ok all cool). Pops started to get more frequent when off the throttel so I figured car running a tad lean. Then BOOM car stopped ideling. But when driving with throttel open 100% fine.
So I did the whole undo idel screw blow some compressed air in to clear idle jets spray in some carby cleaner put screw back in. Toyota specs say start at 3 turns off shut. Due to a semi mild cam (kicks in around 3500RPM) my idel screw is 3 and 3/4 off seat. Idel speed I run 750/800 RPM. With dizzy set at 10 degrees at idel with no vac lines attached.
So after blowing out jets car ran like a DREAM :)
So now comes today crusing on high way in 4th gear at 100km/h. Did a slight wrong and over took a car in right lane and accelerated and though ah pop foot to floor full song and then pull back in so I did acceled up to 120 ish over took jumped in left lane again jumped off throttel to coast back to 100. BAM
Jump off throttel and car rolled on then started missing......didnt wanna hold speed struggeled to do 80km/h.
So tapped throttel a few times and car then seemed to run. Did 100km/h for rest of trip home (30km).
Get home car WONT idel stalls out.
Ok did air compressor trick with idle jet popped it back in 3 and a 3/4 turns off seat start car BAM runs FINE.
So go inside for the arvo. Now I had to go out this evening.
start car tad of choke due to large cam hates a fresh cold start. Reverse out gate. about 3 streets away choke off BAM car wont idle.
Now also if I have throttle a few dregrees open so idel jet isnt in play and were running off main primary jet then car runs FINE no shudder hesitation on accel nothing.
Back off throttel vacuume comes in and car shudders wants to stop running hesitates etc.
Seems to only happen with high vac pressures and when idel jet is in play.
So I pulled over and though step two. Remove vac line to dizzy advance and block.
No better still wont idle. So pulled over again (oh side note car at full operating temp so not cold not hot jsut nice) out comes torch peak in dizzy thinking little copper braid in dizzy as it advances might be coming apart and then dizzy shorts. NOPE electronic 5K dizzy no lead all electric. So shut bonnet drive home just can idel at lights.
Now if car stalls at lights I have to have accelerator at least 50% open can feel secondary linkage touch and will start or give two FULL pumps of pedal.
So kinda stumped. Thinking tomorrow ill be ripping top OFF carby see if more gunk is in slow jet primary or secondary jet etc.
But short list of engine specs:
Apparently rebuilt 3K
mild cam 3500RPM start
stock air box NEW airfilter 1 week old
Stock KE11 carby no polution gear no PCV etc
stock early straight runner manifold
slightly ported head
extractors
5K electronic dizzy
GT40 non resistor coil
KE70 starter motor
KE70 4 speed manual.
NEW fuel filter a meatl Ryco type off fuel injected car filters much finer than paper rubbish
So ANY ideas would help.
Issue seems to start when I went from FULL throttel to jammed shut and on coast down generating a large vacuume.
Also noted storms in QLD last night car was in rain though ah water in fuel tank half full so filled also tonight with E10 to help suck up any water and a cup full of metho. Normaly I chose 91 unleaded.
Any ideas/help apprecated.
Sorry for shit house spelling.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Looks like a simple procedure to do this can't see why wouldn't work for your 4a conversion in your KEX.
What it looks like is a simple plate on right hand side (red steel) with the pivot ball attached to it. From top of my head these balls screwed into the gearbox on a K50 (one on patio but can't look at it atm) so simple procedure of make plate to fit in corner drill tap lock tie in ball done. Use original hydro clutch fork.
Hydro setups usually get pushed so the fork still pushes bearing into the clutch cover. So take off hydraulic cylinder make a provision for cable and bing. Pull forwards.
To do this well feel there are 2 critical sizes needed. A) distance from face of throw out bearing to clutch cover. If this is nonexistent clutch will spin this bearing over heat fail or clutch only ever be half engaged and slipping. So Id find a T50 do a drop height from face of bell housing to surface of a throw out bearing fully retracted. Use a T50 from a 4a. Or any 4a gearbox. This will give you distance you need to have baring sitting BACK from flex plate of engine allowing a standard clutch to fit in the gap. B) height of pivot ball. could measure from face of bell housing down to top of a clutch fork that you will use subtract clutch fork thickness in ball area to find distance to ball. If ball to low throw out bearing won't move enough so clutch wont fully disengage.
After that rest should be easy. This would mean no hydro setup etc in pedal box. Also to me this way seems easier if all can be bolted onto a gearbox a person with no welder could easily achieve this.
Also opens up HEAPS of room for improvement. Play with length of clutch fork to make the movement of the bearing faster giving you a faster acting clutch etc etc. Work out the ratio of pedal movement to clutch fork movement and play make it shorter etc etc.
I say get a gear box depth micrometer and start :) Not rocket surgery...
Cameron
P.S. I do see on KP61 member who posted pics is Tojo...He is a member here so go to forum members section serch "tojo" send a PM ;)
-
Ah so many memories also....
I remember finding this place when I was lookng at buying my first car..Corollas are reliable right....And it went from there.
But its impressive to see how the community grew and changed over the couple of years I have been signed up.
With many people here good friends...
In fact Running into Fook at the Ekka even this weekend to well computer I'm typing this on has parts in it from Irokin.
But I sold the KE30...bought another car faded out of here for a bit popping past for emails etc well couldnt resist....And just a week ago bought myself a KE11 as a daily work car again :) So watch this space...
-
1
-
-
Hi,
From above comments...
A KE70 4 speed shifter will fit a KE70 K50 box YES...
A K50 from a late model KE70 will fit a T50 box same shifter....
HOWEVER
Early KE70 earboxes the shifter is slightly smaller and will not fit the T50 box. Later ones are larger and do fit :)
Found this out when cutting up gear sticks to make a short shifter. Made one froma K40 shifter from a KE70 go to put it on my K50 in a KE30...Wont fit...to small.....thats when I started looking and in KE70 there are two sizes. I found larger shifters on the later boxes. And the later box shifter is the SAME as a T50 so T 50 short shifter kits are bolt on to K50 boxes froma KE70 :)
Cameron
-
What are the meassurements for the width and length of the mounts?
Are you getting seats engineered?
Keen to fit seats soon to my KE10 and currently doing my reserch :)
Cameron
-
Hi,
Been looking into getting new seats for the KE10 of mine.
Currently runs really badly installed KE20 items.
Don’t want to spend money on re upholstering them and don’t want to re-do KE10 low back items as they are not as safe.
So you see in the shops the Autotecnica or SAAS items. Some on the tag say they are ADDR approved.
So the ADR in mind is ADR 3.
http://www.infrastru...sign/pdf/03.pdf
It tells me it is applicable after years 1971 (using earliest date)
Production date on the KE11 is 6 month 1970.
So if I was to get a for example ADR approved SAAS seat fit it to the KE10 technically I have UP graded my car as now doesn’t run low back seats and a more modern seat would be a bit safer in design etc.
So should I get this mod engineered? I know the police can give grief on these but for newer cars I can see why as airbags etc can be removed.
But for an older car is it an as big a deal?
Also has anyone experienced fitting these. I see some come with "Universal" mounts and seat tracks and KE1X cars seat mounts are a simple square pattern 4 bolts can’t go wrong.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi,
Currently under going a diff upgrade in my KE15 and when I removed the stock diff I pulled the leaf springs off and the original saddle pads were worn out.
Saddle pads:
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/images/P/15012lg.jpg
I have done some reading and found a few places where people suggest throwing them in the bin.
Why...They say it tightens up the rear end for better handeling.
Now if I run leaf spring directly in contact with diff you would have metal to metal wear..
With pad would stop this....
So I'm in two minds find ones that fit and get new ones OR don't install them and have a better rear end feel etc.
What are other peoples views on this?
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi,
You will be correct in that is an early K motor rocker cover.
My KE15 has this setup still I call it the Granny pipe or walking stick polution control system.
All the KE1X series has is that large hole and rubber connected another walking stick shapped pipe to it that dumped all fumes under car coating it in a nice crossion preventitive oil layer.
Later they fitted a PCV valve. I have found the valve fits this hole all the rubber come with valve and fills it. Obviously Toyota didnt change their mould at the foundry and designed a PCV valve to suit. As for the other connection your missing just drill tap a thread and brass fitting.
If I was you run a catch can. And then run catch can to air cleaner etc so its not venting over board and keep police happy.
But This is just something I think about. Under a vaccume oil foams less....if your racing engine hard oil will foam....Have a catch can that goes to carby/inlet when it gets a vaccume applied crank case gets vaccume and keeps oil under control. I have been looking at this recently as I want to add it to my KE15 not sure how yet.
I even know some cars use a vaccume pump to suck block to a vaccume so Id set car up to run PCV catch can to get oil and stop it filling air filter with crappy oil and car breths clean air still.
But early manifold but any KE PCV valve will fit and in my KE15 this jsut goes over board.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi,
There seems to be a cluster of KE1X sprinters in QLD..lol
I know of another one out lowood way and now yours and mine in Ipswich region and then you say there is one at beaudesert.
And I know of about 3 in Brisbane city.
Tomorrow Ill get a pic off my car in the shed see its colour. ut possibly different colour different market....
Cheers
Cameron
-
Project Sprinter: I popped into Road and Track the other week and was supprised to find your KE17 there :)
Had a good look over it I liked what I saw.
Can only dream of my KE15 being at that standad one day.
As for badges. Ones on my KE15 are in OK condition. My coloured in laid squares are 100% green. So weather the change from green to blue happened between the KE15/17 model who knows. don't have my part number book for the KE1X sprinters handy (its in a box as I jsut moved house) so I can't check if there were multipul "badges" for this car.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Wagn, Thanks for that info is good to know. ATM I will try running a stock leaf pack and I have the greens on 4th click (middle playing it safe.lol) yet to put LSD in car jsut got diff back from powder coaters and waiting to get back to work so I can build center up and fit. But good to know it adds traction. After LSD I think ill do steering box in KE15 then better wheels then motor.....list is growing..lol
lcal: Link sorry can't do :( Just trawling the net and working in the airline industry helps a tad getting parts on the ground so just keep your eyes open and you will find. Also keep in mind old TRD gear is called TOSCO the CDI I got in the KE15 is a TRD/TOSCO branded unit. Also old TE27 era adjustable TRD shocks are usually the compress and twist adjust method. Pain full. So if you see them get but I personally would avoid as the later easier to adjust stuff fits and travel limits is suited to the car.
-
Sourced my new in box KP61 TRD front shocks and my new in box TRD green rear shocks from japan. Wasnt cheap but bolt into KE15 and for what you will pay a nice shock asorber and I like how the rears are valved and easy to adjust.
-
is this car a Jap or BW diff?
If its a Jap diff can I buy the center?
Cheers
Cameron
-
Few more bad boys up:
Thermo housing with extra probe allowance:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281037493773?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
Thermo housing top with thermo fan switch allowance:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281037495498?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
18R manual has R-G in it and solex tunning :) :
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281037925586?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
KE30 and possibly other KE tie rod end (will for KE55)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281037980507
Have two tie rod ends up for grabs so get in quick.
Have a look at my other items possibly something of interest.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi,
Slowly getting on top of my parts collection and going to post most of it on ebay.
Have to have a clean up so I can fit it all in my new shed that is smaller than what I used to have.
So some links below:
Thermostat housing:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281037072824
Diff rebuild manual:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281037070828?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
Thats it for now but keep watching ill be adding more over the weeks.
Cameron
-
Hi,
Had a look through my pictures can't find it BUT....
KE10 twin carby engines had the best exhaust.
No polution rubbish so no funny casting issues.
Next best thing twin carby models had water heated manifolds...the exhaust has no massive crap hole and jsut had studs that attached it to manifold for vibrations etc.
Now the twin carby KE1X motor had dual outlet 4-2-1 system not 4-1... This would be the go.
Good luck finding one but I found one for my KE15 cracked :( And I destroyed it welding it so mmm now hangs on shed wall to say I have one for ke15 but thats all it will ever do.
Think there is a thread up atm here with KE1X sales brochures...one of these should have engine pic of SL1100 motor have a close look at manifold ;)
Cameron
-
Hi,
Ill have a look see what books I can find must read up on this.
Stu thanks for the information from you KE11 :)
Few questions...
When you floor the noise maker pedal with your rear softer rear leafs does the car squat down much etc or stay sitting at a fairly constant level and jsut move etc any info on how the rear end reacts etc?
So to add information to what I'm going for here is follows:
Front struts I have stock KE10 iteam 3 bolt bottom etc.
Camber tops I made to suit KE1X 3 bolt pattern.
I will use KE20 strut tops ditching KE10 2 part tops
Front inserts I have KP61 yellow TRD inserts part number: 48511-kp652, specs are:
Lenght Max: 555mm
Length min: 395mm
Dampening force: 140Kgf/70KgF ------> stock KP61 is 88/32kgf
Springs: Got a set made (meassured wrong 1 inch to short :( ) so getting another set done to suit shocks, TRD use this shock with springs around the K=2.1-2.2Kg for rally,dirt,trail,street.....if it is for tarmac TRD used K=5.0-5.1kg springs with same shocks so....front springs I'm thinking around the 2.5kgf/mm so thats 24.5N/mm so stiffer but not CRAZY.. and again this will match the shocks.
Then I have a white line sway bar to install and remove front leaf and I made some new LCA bushes for cross member.
So from this front low slightly stiffer. Reason I used KP info is the KP61 was curb weight of 749kg KE15 is 710kg. So there a tad shorter but prob similar and KP had a K motor hanging over front shocks and a light ass end same as a KE15.
So now rear end:
I run stock springs (kinda need a reset they sit flat when parked in driveway and nothing in car. And the anti squeak pads made from asbestos inbetween leafs has fallen away over time and leaves rivets are loose etc there dead.
Shocks: TRD 8 way adjustable greens don't have there specs on hand. Set on about 4 half way as any softer I run 13 inch wheels on 15 now will bottom out over some bumps due to leafs being dead.
So rear end jsut for some info on a KP61 stock rear springs were rated at: 1.9kgf/mm TRD rally dirt springs are 2.2kgf/mm and tarmac are 5.0kg/f.
TRD in rally spec run rear end slightly harder by 0.1kgf/mm across all options while in tarmac racing run rear 0.1kgf/mm softer across all spring options.
So idea in my head is if I run 2.5kg/f front springs possibly go 2.4kgf/mm leaf springs in back........
Now for hard part anyone in brisbane know who can reset add or remove leafs from packs taking about an inch from ride height AND being able to build them to a spec spring rate? Or am I dreaming?
Also for those at home here is stock KE1X in general spring info: (I say KE1X general as KE15/17 had harder springs stock and KE10 4 door and some sedans had softer springs etc Toyota played a bit here)
Front Shocks:
Max length: 644mm
Min length: 453mm
Stroke 191mm
dampening force: 32-48kg in dampening and 34-46kg in rebound (dam soft as a stock KP is 88kg dampening/32 rebound so rebound softer here)
Front springs:
Leaf:
two leaf pack
1.65kg/mm spring rate (stock KP springs are 1.8kg/mm)
Coil springs:
4 coils
0.59kg/mm rate
So again very similar to KP so I'm leaning towards kp kinda settings see how I go.
Also Stu got info on a rear sway bar? If I fit LSD have a feeling ill need one...
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi RC,
Been mucking around with my sprinter lately and been wanting to get back into
tinkering with it since moving house.
Now my suspension in my KE15 is mmmm seen better days front end bottoms out shocks dead etc.
Rear I have standard leaf springs and TRD 8 way shocks set on about 3 atm.
Now I was in at road and Track in Ipswich yesterday and started looking at
a KE17 that is in the shop atm that is being prepped for circuit racing.
Eventually I want to do some track days in the KE15 then just have it as weekend fun car.
So I'm looking into doing suspension.
Now Terry at road and track said for the KE17 circuit car they softened the rear leafs.....
I was thinking of going harder...
SO I am after RC's thoughts on suspension. Car will be mainly weekend fun car and some track days at QR.
Front suspension as it probably should all be matched I just finished making a set of camber tops and
Picked up some brand new KP61 TRD yellow inserts (as KP shocks fit KE1X struts) For get there rating
off top of head I have it in a book so front will be stiff getting new coils made and remove the leaf spring
and I have a white line sway bar to fit to the front also.
So can use that as a rough guide.
Also as a note to the rear end I am fitting an LSD centre to the diff so that will also affect how rear end handles.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi,
Great write up with pics :)
I did this mod to my KE15 a few years back now good investment.
Id add a few points but.
When I did mine I got the KE15 master cylinder re sleeved. Was about $60 And again Kickin 5K is correct KE10s is a different master cylinder I had this in the KE15 as it was disk front stock so re-sleeved and works awesome and when you run single circuit brakes I want to know all items are in good order.
Next thing I did was new brake lines. I went braided lines front and one on rear old lines were so perished and dead again this was about $70 ish from memory for 3 lines all fittings made to my req. lengths. Shop did a good deal there so worth it to.
Also an option for the owners of KE10's that want to keep 110 stud pattern can use KE20 hubs and bolt on the disk rotor to those hubs. Again I had disk front from factory so I got KE70 discs attached them to KE15 hub (pretty much same as KE20 hub) and put that on. This retained my 110 stud pattern and I just buy KE1X front wheel bearings.
But for a while now I have just wound rear hand brake out mmmm a fair whack... To help stop rears locking and they still do.
I've looked at some options like:
Or
Though about going to wrecker grabbing a hilux valve off diff and making a locking mechanism for the lever so it becomes an adjustable valve.
Think the wilwood option would be the easiest. Has anyone else done this also or have ideas here as a KE1X when rears lock will spin ass around faster than you can imagine......
Cheers
Cameron
-
A while back I threw Crow a call K motor roller rockers they still have the "data" on them will do a run again IF you ordered a min of 10 sets at $1100 + GST for each set so Crow will probably want the 11K mark NOT cheap...so yes those ebay ones will go high...
-
Hi,
Nice build following this closely.
As for roller rockers get the Crow ones if you can if not mini rockers fit. 1.5 rocker ratio small bit of machining and there in I'm doing this to a motor atm and mini roller rockers out of the UK $150 atm so easy cheap option there.
But you also mention roller lifters. I was going to go down this path also as the ramp rate OI could grind on a cam then would be extremely fun and give me many more cam grind options. BUT......I didn't go this way as cost stopped me and I am making a bit more sedate motor.
Reason cost stopped me is a normal flat bottom lifter spins in the bore it slides up and down in to prolong life and not wear on one spot.
Roller lifters the roller must stay in the ONE spot the whole time it fly's up and down and not spin. To do this you can easily buy chev roller lifters cheap (I'm building 5K block 3/4K small lifter bores you would have to look at other roller lifters) After you get said lifters I was going to machine a key up and weld it down the entire length of the roller lifter then cut a slot/key way down the entire length of the lifter bore and lifters would slide in and then not spin keeping the bearing square on the cam lobe. The keys and the key ways would have had to been cut spot on and done right if not bearing would chew out cam....
Oh and also bearings on bottom of roller lifters are hardened steel. Your cam then needs to be billet, hardened etc etc a stock cast steel cam even hardened and nitride if you want won't last.
So going roller lifters quite hard.......worth it for the better cam options that's up to you and cam grinder to decide..
As for roller rockers mini or Crow K motor ones easy job and not hard.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Hi,
Going through a lot of my tools and stuff atm and having a clean up as I can no longer store all what I have.
So came accross a good micrometer I have and I had two of them so one must go.
EXCELLENT Starrett brand, 0-25mm.
Has working clamp and ratchet works excelently. Calibration is perfect (calibration guy at work checked it, was preformed at 20 degrees C).
Good threads and a good frame on this model has a bit more metal in it than I have seen on others so it is more "thermally" stable.
Worth a stack new. Is used paint had some off frame a bit due to using with oily hands but rest of mic is in TIP top clean working order and not full of swarf or other contaminants.
Price: $50 = free postage
Pics:
Contact me on:
0405244580 or PM here.
Cheers
Cameron
-
NICE buy.
can't help but notice the drivers seat.....
It looks 100% the same as the TRD fixed back seats of the day.
If I was you Id get it re-trimed if it is. Should have TRD in the fiber glass mould some where. Have a look.
Cheers
Cameron
-
Limiter no.
How ever in noise gate mode has an auto volume option so as you play it will swell/turn you up. This can be changed so that is kinda of a limiter you can limit the amount of gain/signal going ot amp but not a true limiter.
Link to manual for those interested.
http://www.digitech.com/system/documents/71/original/RP50%20Manual.pdf?1289512802
Cameron
Spotted Qld
in QLD / Brisbane
Posted
Car was nick named "kermit" after the frog if its hte one I'm thinking of green went under a full resto for the guys daughter... He makes guitar for a living his hand skills are killer and the car shows this quallity when looking closely.