Pieman

Off ebay, some guy in Thailand. They are not te27 copies though they're universal flares. I modified the arches to suit them. The rear arch was a nightmare. Had to bridge the quarter panel with the wheel well with sheet metal (lots of singed hair welding in that tight spot). :eatlead:

Gasless. Not great but it's ok for doing a series of tacks on sheet metal.

Rubbed back and knocking in the high points: I had major issues with the drivers door. It had a huge ripple and had seen a lot of bodywork, therefore making it similar to the surface of the moon and thin as a coke can. I thought.. Bugger it I'll fabricate a partial door skin! Turned out well! The handle and lock hole line up perfect! Still have sloppy hinges though. :eatlead: Gave the door a good prime and wet sanded everything to a polish, including the interior areas that aren't covered in trim. Things were masked and the car recieved 5 coats of base BMW Schwarz II acrylic. I sanded it back after the 4th, gave it a fairly thinned out final base then 3 coats of clear. I've given it a light buff and heare are the results: More to come. :bash:

2008 pics coming shortly

Background story: I bought this ke20 in 2006 in below average condition and have spent the last three years fixing rust, stripping the entire under body, the interior and exterior paint. The floor pan, engine bay and under body were coated in por15, while the exterior received a bare metal respray. Yes i have an OCD . :eatlead: Only just recently I finished painting it and the parts have been going back on. It has: -te27 Coilovers with ae86 jdm calipers -te27 steering arms -t3 RCAs -T series diff (I believe off a t18) with corona avante discs -lowering blocks -Overhauled all balljoints, tierods and bushes -Solex locks -Vitaloni mirrors -townace chaser rims -Bolt on flares -Custom front lip -Fully seam welded Plans: 4age black SSR reverse mesh rims with some dish Custom instrument cluster Here's a few pics: 2006: 2007

I would be inclined to create a seal out of some rubber. It would probably do a better job and look tidier.

Love your work! Thanks for posting these dfunkt! :lol:

Here's a te27. Just hold your hand over the ass end to get a rough idea. :)

Just wondering what people opinions are.. I'm contemplating an electric demister kit since I have the rear glass out, but it might not be worth it. How does the rear vent hold up when it rains and condensation builds up on the rear window?

:bash:

Twincam.info is fairly popular with the ae93 crowd.

Yep inside. I've been trying to figure out the orientation of the wiper motor and some of the heater ducting. I have a manual but it left this area out. :bash:

I've finally got my ke20 painted so the parts are all going back on and I'm trying to figure out how the wiper motor goes back in and various other bits. Would anyone be kind enough to post a pic of their under dash area? :bash:

Quick and dirty: Use E Clips. :P

The more adjustable the better. Especially a tunable knob rather than a hi/lo switch for the voltage. I went down this path and bought a portaweld 100 about 2 years ago. While it's been good for doing sheet metal, I kinda wished I bought something more fine tunable like the sweet machines we have at tafe. The main drama with the less fancy machines is that they can't sustain a perfect arc at their higher settings and spray transfer (a long continuous slug) is nigh impossible because the wire burns back and spatters like crazy. I really like that kemppei!

It might require some specialist work and a bit of cash, but some subframe connectors would really tighten up a ke20's unibody chassis.

I think coates hire has them just ask for 100-200 amp machine. You might need to hire a mask and gloves too.

You might need to drill out the spot welds along the bottom seam and do some plug welds.

They're not that bad. Probably a bit too fiddly for a bernzomatic though (I was thinking spare tyre well). Invest in a mig.

If it's easily accessible and away from combustibles (fuel tanks/carpets), you could use a bernzomatic mapp gas torch and some brazing rods (about $95 from bunnings). A heck of a lot cheaper than buying a mig machine and way better than fibreglass or bog. Just be careful and don't overheat the metal. Practice on some scrap sheet metal first and do it in a series of tacks so you don't overheat the metal and warp it. I wouldn't braze body panels, but a rust hole in the boot is doable.

From my understanding, our fuel prices, are dictated by the global cost of oil. Say the global price is $130 a barrel and the oil produced in our region costs $70 per barrel, they have to sell it for $130 because if they don't, other countries (like China) will buy it and we face fuel shortages, which will make things even worse (i.e: fuel rationing). At the end of the day, the government wont do shit about the fuel excise/gst attachment to petrol. They don't want to slow down their cashflow. When the value of the US dollar picks up, expect to pay $2 a litre. Theres fuel protests going on all over the world right now I think it would be a very smart to start stockpiling fuel. It has a lifespan of 1 year if you store it in a cool dark place. Theres also additives that will allow you to store it for 2 years.

Top effort mate! Any chance of some pics of your pedal box to accommodate the booster? It can be a tight squeeze at the base of the pushrod around the dust boot. I had to cut off the plate where the pushrod threads through and bend the sides of the pedal box outwards a little then weld some plate back over it for my ke20.

Go to a an automotive paint shop and ask them to put you in the right direction. The problem with the acrylics you buy at supershit is that these types of paints tend to be a lot less UV stable and will dull or go milky within a year. I did my bodywork with septone and K & H products (bog, primer fillers, stop putty etc). But for the paint and the clearcoat, I got the shop to make up their own brand paint that they sell to the autobody shops that do acrylic on the older cars.

I think white stripes would look better on a green car.

That's coming along nicely Charl! The black makes the car look sinister. :lolcry: I reckon that fabric with the skulls that you're using for the headliner would really look hot on the seats as well. :wink: