Pieman

You will need a very experienced panel beater to get those out. You have dents (easy) ripples (difficult) and creases (difficult). They would be pulled out with a stinger (a gun that welds rods to the sheet metal) and shrunken smooth with an blowtorch/shrinking hammer/wet rag/slap file. Or you can just go for the ol' bash and bog which will add a few kgs to your car :y:

You sir, are an inspiration! Very nice fabrication skills.

Such a nice find. Good luck with it. :)

For the lip of the seam: multi grip pliers, hammer and dolly, and also a strip of steel clamped to the back to bash against to get it dead straight. For the creases, weld small squares of thin plate with a hole drilled in them and pull out with a slide hammer with a hook attachment then cut and grind off. This is for those who can't afford those fancy stingers that weld rods to the panel. The sheet metal will be under tension. That means that you will have high spots that cannot be flattened out and you will be playing whack a mole. Find the high spots using a file, direct a propane, butane, map, or oxy flame at the high point to you can see the grain structure of the metal expand (it turns blue), tap it with a wooden mallet or a waffled face shrinking hammer (if you can afford their ridiculous prices). This is to "shock" the sheet metal into contracting, your not "punching" it in so to speak. Then quickly quench it with a wet rag (i like to put ice in with the water that I dip the rag in).

There's some of those corner lenses on ebay by a guy from The Netherlands. Just be wary of his shipping prices.

Congrats on getting the paint out of the way. Quite a major milestone after all that sanding I bet. :cool: How many coats of base and clear ended up going on?

Nope, need to take it out, get some steel tubing with a thick wall (ask a steel merchant for offcuts) to seat the ball joint in around its base. and press it into the lca, then the steering arm. I used a supershit press I bought for $120. Don't over do it, or you will destroy the bj. Also, If you can, brush on some thick paint like por15 in the BJ hole (for a good mechanical jam) and use a circlip for added security, even if it doesn't come with one.

Would there be much interest if I were to make a fibreglass mould of the valance and chin spoiler as a single piece, and knock up a few copies? :)

I'll do it around trucks driving in parallel or if they're waiting at lights. :D

Looks booyaah! :)

More than you could imagine! :fuzz:

If it doesn't have the chassis number, whats to stop you from just plucking one from pick n pinch? I put my ke20 compliance plate in a cleaning solution to get the crud off it and it became tinfoil (yeah I forgot about it :sob: ). The HSFA-02813 bit looks like paint code/auto/manual/diff ratio etc.

Was he missing any teeth or wearing a straw hat with overalls by any chance? :sob: Mate, just tip off crime stoppers at the very minimum. Was it this guy?

Hmm what might this contraption be? Zinc plated a few things.. To be continued...

Hope you have replacement sheet metal from a donor car. :jamie:

A few updates: - Rear window rubbers and side glass back in with fresh rubber washers/mounting hardware etc - Front apron fitted with custom fibreglass chin spoiler - Roof lining is all in. - Just about all the under dash parts are back in (vents, ducting, wiper motor etc). - Heater tested, cleaned up and back in. - Headlights back on - Fuel tank in In the not so distant future I plan on sorting out the carpet, brake circuits, fuel pump , the fuel line and dash components (autometer guages possibly). At the moment I'm weighing up whether it's worth the $$ buying a tube cutter, bender, flaring tool or just get one of the mobile guys to come around and make up the brake lines and fuel line. Anyone been down this road before? Chris

These might be helpful: Instead of drilling a hole in the pedal to put a clevis pin through, mines been relocated to just behind the strut tower by welding a Z shaped length of metal plate to the hook that pulls the clutch cable.

A guy in the states has a kp61 x-member, steering rack and aw11 column in his te27. His website has been down for awhile but there's a mirror on archive.org. Unfortunately, a lot of the images are missing. http://web.archive.org/web/20080213024445/http://1uzfe.com/

Have you tried ebay?

That looks.... Fully sick ;) . What you've done with all the interior is nothing short of spectacular. ;)

Cool, well I made these with a bit of tubing and rod at tafe, so I'll see what kinda results I get ;) Cheers

After a lot of stuffing around, here's my modified pedal box to suit a booster and hydraulic clutch (which is relocated for better clearance). I tacked it together and my tafe teacher welded it up properly (they jump at the chance after welding bits of plate together all day :dance:) I'm using a mazda 121 booster and a mitsushitty L300 tandem mc with remote reservoirs. Any clearance problems down the track with the inlet manifold, I'll just make a custom one. Slight clearance problem with the clutch mc because the pipe outlet faces towards the booster.. I've done a little research and I'm adamant that a girling clutch mc thats on a few euro and american cars has the same flange, stroke bore size as the one I have (think it's a celica item), but the pipe outlet faces upwards. So I'll grab one from the wreckers. Paid a visit to clarkies and bought some soundproof mat, which replaces the sponge material in the roof lining. Hopefully the car wont sound too tinny: Wandered through spotlight and brought this to my motor trimmer. Here's my custom roof lining. I'll give credit where credit is due: Charls effort really inspired me on his interior and got a few ideas :dance: . I'm going for the evil sinister look and thought skull and crossbones were rather fitting :dance: : Unfortunately I'm missing 4 of these so I can't hook up the metal supports for the roof lining: I've checked my local wreckers, fastener catalogs etc.. No dice anyone have any of these?

That LCA you sold me saved my bacon, scrubbed up nicely :dance:

Paint stripper, stripping discs and wire wheels. Brush on some stripper then put glad wrap on it and come back the next day. This will stop the solvents in the stripper from evaporating and allow it to do it's work through the bog.

Thats an awesome little ke10. For $600 your dad did well. I'd clean it up and keep it original to increase it's value.