Radical_Jesus
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Everything posted by Radical_Jesus
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I have a set of verniers my grandfather that are from Japan and they're the greatest things! Yeah i'll do a bit of asking around but drop a last few bits of info that i thought of during work So, when idling, it sounds like its skipping but as soon as it hits 3k+ RPM its got a nice solid note to it and doesnt sound like its missing, it hesitates a little driving but that could be too lean a mix on the carbs. it's a 2" straight through for an exhaust (haven't cut a muffler/resonator int yet) so if that could be causing issues let me know Also when idling, it seems to have that fuely smoke and kind of oily moisture by the looks/smell etc of it. when it backfired the other day on 1342 it basically shotgunned the black moisture into my roller chest (looks like automotive homicide now) Ive also read people having to recurve the electronic dizzys, so could that also be an issue in regards to rough low rpm but smoother up past 3k rpm? Cheers in advance again for putting up with my spam haha
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I'll have to track down or buy a compression tester then to make sure. I have a sinking feeling about this putting 2 and 2 together in regards to piston rings haha
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Ok so I double checked everything, watched the inlet rocker for cyl one and it sat stationary for the last 90deg or rotation before it hit TDC on the timing mark at 8deg BTDC That was dead on so I knew TDC was right, took the dizzy cap off and looked for the point under the rotor, that was dead in line with the metal bar on the pickup. With all that checked and accounted for realistically it should fire up and run no sweat, so I don't know where its missing or going wrong here, spark seems good across all cylinders. If theres any other info you guys need let me know so I can get this thing sorted and keep getting it closer to on the road
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Altezzaclub, so you're saying that if its at 8deg and its TDC on cyl one then I should have it 8deg before that, so like 16deg on the crank? then turn the dizzy clockwise to see when the spark strikes. From there would I tighten the dizzy down so that as the spark fires the rotor is dead on cyl#1 and then make sure its TDC or 8deg BTDC? I think I'm understanding what you're saying and apologies if I'm not aha Banjo, no idea if its a reluctor type dizzy, but I do know it does have an internal ignitor, found that one out when I had and external module on it as well and got no spark for a while haha Nah engine has stayed put in there and no heads have come off, outside of the dizzy, intake manifold and exhaust headers the engine hasn't come apart because not going to lie, definitely not in my skill set to do haha
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Its an electronic dizzy from a 5k To find TDC I took the spark plug out of cyl 1, and jabbed the ignition and watched to see when a mist of fuel shot out, that way I knew it wasn't far from TDC and it was on the compression stroke From there I adjusted the crank pulley to 8deg and put a feeler down the spark hole to see where the proper TDC was. Had the distributor out so I dropped that back in and then adjusted that via the oil pump drive slot to make sure the rotor button was dead on cyl 1 in the cap when it was TDC on cyl 1 The firing order if I have it set to 1234 and then set 2/3 reverse so it 1324 I get backfires through the carbs. 1342 it hiccups and then 1234 or 4321 and it'll run but sound like its skipping I always use cyl one as the closest to the radiator/furthest from the firewall
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I have another fun issue So after finally getting my corolla running, of course I was going to take it for a lap of the block, even if it isnt 100% legal however, after feeling it hesitate under throtlle I double checked and reset the timing to TDC at 8deg, realised my firing order was off as well. Thought no worries, switch it to 1342 which is standard firing order, this is where my problem starts. when set to 1342, it wont fire, it'll have a little pop like a weak backfire through the exhaust once every few seconds, but if the firing order is set to 1234 it'll run and idle, but rough as guts If i pull leads while its idling to see if it runs or dies, no matter which firing order its in, no matter which plug i pull it makes no difference, except for cyl 3 Cyl 3 will always kill the motor on any firing order no matter which lead from the dizzy is going to it Any help or ideas on whats going on?
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I probably should have replied to this, but she's all sorted as of a while ago, was the internal ignitor in the dizzy (which I didn't realize I had) that was causing havoc for the module, took the module out, set the timing and fired straight up!
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Ok I probably explained things terribly, so I have the 12v stock loom going to coil positive, then the distributor +/- hooked up to the coil It does start up and run, though, just that I didnt have the tacho wire connected is why it didnt work! haha
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OK hang on, you mean the black wire, that went to coil negative, that had a ring terminal on it, that totally should have dawned on me sooner because theres no 12v- wire going to the coil? Just had one of 'those' moments
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Ok I haven't put them back together yet, but basically I sorted out the electronic dizzy issue from forever ago (you guys remember that conundrum?) Got trigger happy and cut back all the wires from the stock loom, so now all I have going to the coil is the 12v to the positive haha if I were a betting man, there was a white and black wire with a ring terminal on the end that I guess was it, but i'll have a look for the black wire today. I would upload some pictures, but I'll have to borrow a friends phone or something, my screen died yesterday :/ As for 3am, I work nightfill, so thats about mid afternoon for me! hahaha
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Ok so, A little while back i did an electronic dizzy conversion on my ke70, (which ill actually write up a guide for due to the internal ignitor) and ive made my tacho not work anymore. Everything else on the cluster works fine, lights gauges etc. I was wondering if in the engine bay however there is a tacho wire that runs to the coil thats ive cut through at 3am by accident weeks ago. If anyone could provide assistance through pictures, ill owe you a crisp high five Cheers ~Ethan
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Ok so I did some research and some more testing and it seems that I'm not getting correct ohm resistance through the coil with everything unplugged, I have a new coil on order (Bosch HEC716 - the one used in the guide) so we will see how that goes when it gets here. The way its setup should be fine in regards to the guide I followed and the distributor works in regards to having nothing broken or sheared inside or around it. Have checked for spark at the plug and at the coil but nothing from either. According to research a gt40 coil is supposed to be for points dizzys not elec dizzys but not 100% how that would work, either way i'll keep on trucking through it
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Still do not have spark even with 12v coming from every channel of the module
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Ok, i'll explain this the best I can for anyone still reading. I have installed a new module, I'm getting 12V to the coil still, and 12V from every channel coming out of the ignition module now, 2 channels seem to be +ve current and 2 -ve current but all still 12V. however still not firing, so either timing it out or engine is flooded. Haven't checked for spark yet, but theoretically I should be getting spark if i'm getting 12V to the coil correct? This has really stumped me and isn't getting any easier haha, she'll fire one day soon though I have hope!
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Ok i have both positive and negative from the distributor going into the ignition module aha
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In case anyone is still following this thread, ive done some multimeter tests, from battery -ve to coil +ve, a squidge under 12v From battery -ve to ignition module +ve the same reading, squidge under 12v From battery -ve to dizzy +ve through the ignition module, a solid reading of 0v By process of elimination ive either done it wrong, ooooor the dizzy is whats causing me greif, which means thanks cheap ebay spec elec dizzy
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Mad quick measurement solid
Radical_Jesus replied to Radical_Jesus's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
Cheers banjo, yeah thats exactly what i needed mate! Appreciate it :) -
Can someone do me a quick solid and measure the OD (outside diameter) of the shaft (ha) thats circled very poorly in the attached image? I may have forgotten to do so before I drove 6 hours away from my kesev. preferably from a k50 box, dunno if k40/50/t50 are all the same Thanks
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Easy as, cheers altezza! Ill run a couple of tests on my day off tomorrow and see how i end up with things, really appreciate all the comments guys, means a lot having a direction to go, hopefully have the kesev up and running again in no time!
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I'm north of adelaide, out Smithfield way 5114 if anyone knows anyone haha
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Ok update number roman numeral Ran a wire from positive terminal to positive coil, cranked but no spark by the looks of things, can't really tell if there is a click or not in the fuse box Next step anyone?
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Just any old wire? cause I have some 10amp stuff from wiring up the gauges, also have left over wires hangin around from the old dizzy setup (they may be important I dunno) But yeah if that wire starts it i'm sure as hell leaving it hahaha (only joking haha)
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One step closer I replaced one of the fuses the other day (was labelled main in the engine fuse box) or are you talking fuse box next to the ignition barrel under the dash? Will test for a click when I get home from work tonight
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ok with the multimeter set to DCV-20 (assuming thats correct) no voltage between the +ve side and anything/everything metal
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Ok now I feel retarded, gimmie two seconds and i'll check voltage again haha
