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Everything posted by Wingsforwheels

  1. Hey Pete, I've got a 4k cam in decent nick in Brunswick West, if you're not too far away you're welcome to it--just shoot me a message!
  2. Sadly just before Christmas my beautiful ke55 was stolen when I was visiting my parents in Canberra, joyridden and torched on the side of a major road. I've been to see her at the wreckers yard, and she is completely done. The firefighters put the fire out before it reached the engine bay, so I have the car now at a mate's place and we're going to pull the engine and any other front end parts this weekend, then post them up here and on the forum if anyone wants them. Pretty awful way for a great car with a lot of love put into her to go. At least she was insured, and they'll be another (hopefully corolla!) project soon. Here she was at the most recent show, a fortnight before this happened.
  3. Just got a sec to watch this, what a great video! Love that bus, and he has me convinced about EFI! Thanks for having a look through reviews, I couldn't find too many except that the VW guys seem to love the black box. I'm going to order one now, it should come after Christmas. One quick question--I need to draw vacuum for the MAP sensor. I currently have one runner (i.e. one throat) on the manifold tapped for vacuum for the brake booster. Would this be an OK source for MAP vacuum, or does it pulse too much being just one cylinder? CB also sell these kits: http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2040.htm but if I need to tap the other cylinders I think I'd rather pay a little less and just do it myself. Thanks!
  4. The black box looks promising--I'll have a look into reviews tonight, and if no one has a similarly cheap ecu spare, I could just bite the bullet and order an accuspark and the box. That way I can give a write up on here on whether they're any good!
  5. The accuspark sounds great, and easy to install! I love the idea of never worrying about points wearing, grease on the rubbing block, etc., and it's cool that it is hidden under the dizzy cap too. This may be a silly question, but would this be different to adjusting the timing a few degrees with a 12mm spanner as you normally would on the Bosch distributor? Like you, I always have a set of spanners, sockets, points, plugs, condenser, fuel hose/clamps,etc. In the car, so this adjustment would be fine if something were to go wrong with the ignition box. It occurred to me I have a second complete Bosch dizzy from my 4k (the 5k came with a 4k dizzy as well). I have checked it for play, and it is in good nick too. If I go down this path I'll look at locking up the advance mechanism later this evening.
  6. Wow lots of detail guys, thanks a lot. I take your point about using a better and more consistent trigger than points. So it sounds like the other two options are 1) electronic dizzy, (either the way you suggest Dave, or with the in-built ignitor as Banjo says), or 2) upgrade to Accuspark in a points distributor. Because of what you say about the Hall effect system Banjo, I am leaning toward option 2. Banjo, you say that the 3k Nippon Denso dizzy is the best for this kind of system. I could put a separate post up to see if anyone has a spare, but alternatively there is an Accuspark unit for the larger Bosch dizzy which I found here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-KE55-4K-Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-Kit-for-Bosch-Distributors-/163154525979 so I could convert my current one and go down that path. I pulled it out tonight and the mechanical advance looks easy enough to lock up. The vacuum advance on this one just unscrews too. Is there another reason you prefer the 3K dizzy? Cheers
  7. Hi Banjo, Thanks for the quick response. The ignition upgrade is for a 5k, with a mild road cam, slightly higher compression and twin Dellorto 40s. At the moment it has a 4k Bosch dizzy, which I am running with just the mechanical advance (no vacuum). It has no octane switch. The dizzy has very little side to side play. I read somewhere that you can check the wear on the dizzy cam lobe and shaft by putting the pickup for the timing light on the coil lead, and seeing if the marker on the crank jumps around--it was very uniform when I tested it this way. I remember reading a while ago that you set up programmable ignition with the silicon chip setup, and am hoping to do something similar to this, potentially using points as the trigger rather than upgrading to an Accuspark. Cheers Jasper
  8. Hi all, I need to have my distributor recurved, and thought it would be fun to go down the programmable ignition timing route instead. Does anyone have a programmable ignition setup they want to sell? I'm not worried whether it's MSD, silicon chip, etc., but preferably something that could be triggered by points. Will probably need postage to Canberra. Cheers
  9. Wow! Might need a little bit of a suspension upgrade in the front, and some wider rear tyres!
  10. Quick question--is the sensor the right size for the hole in the thermostat? I found it hard to find adaptors when I looked for a friends cars, and when we finally did it cost twice as much as that gauge!
  11. Uni holidays have started, and I've had some progress (kind of) The downdraft kept developing more and more issues, until I decided to spend a little more and scrap the 32/32. I picked up a set of Dellorto DHLA40Fs on a redline manifold, have rebuilt them and fiddled with the linkages to get that perfect. Now to the bolting up... But I just cannot figure out how anyone can get these manifold bolts in! The outer/upper bolts near cylinders 1 and 4 are in such tight space with the curve of the intake runners that I can't even get a spanner on to the 14mm bolts. I've tried with studs and nuts, but this didn't help much. The ones underneath are more annoying but I think with the starter out they should be accessible from under the car. Someone suggested hex head bolts and a long ball end Alan key socket fitting, so I guess that might be my next try. Has anyone had success fitting these manifolds with regular bolts or studs and some tool configuration I haven't thought of?
  12. Sorry to take so long responding! The cam has been sold.
  13. I know with mine I could tell the plate mechanism was seized by feeling it, but sucking on the diaphragm it was clear it wasn't punctured because it was like sucking on a blocked straw, i.e. no air getting through. Seems like the previous owner had gone 20 years without oiling the vacuum or mechanical advance mechanisms--I bet that would be common, being hidden under the points, etc.! A couple of drops of oil and some wiggling back and forth and they were perfect again
  14. This is a beaut! I found the seals from Rare Spares for my ke55 pretty good--put them in 6 months ago, good fit and no sign of cracking yet.
  15. I've got a complete 4k minus any hang ons i.e. No carb, dizzy, gearbox, etc. It's also missing the sump nuts and timing cover bolts,so I'm thinking if anyone wants spares I'm happy to give them your way for free plus postage if you're not in Melbourne. Let me know if you need a head or blkc or timing cover, pulleys, etc. Also have stock intake and exhaust manifold s up for grabs. Gotta get rid of everything ready to move!
  16. Bump. I'd settle for 100,definitely rather someone use this than it go to the tip when I move houses next month!
  17. I cut a tiny bit of a beer can and wrapped it around the float side of the tube, and tapped the tube and aluminium shim into the hole with a pen and a few gentle whacks with my palm. Eventually I might look at replacing it, but for now it's wobble-free. And it seems like weber spares don't come cheap!
  18. Thanks for the responses guys! I ended up changing points and condenser chasing an electrical issue, and swapped the leads with a spare set I had, all to no avail. It did end up being a fueling problem, albeit a bit of a curveball! I posted the details with pictures in the thread below, but basically the little brass tube insert in the primary auxillary venturi had slid half a cm toward the air corrector jets, and was all but blocking fuel supply to the primary throat--I could only get the car going by pumping the throttle and so shooting fuel from the accelerator pump. Thanks again! The new 5k is running a beaut!
  19. No, it certainly wasn't on my list of possible issues... But an easy fix! Sure is! It's noticeably lean at the start of the primary opening, but even before I rejet it, this 5k is so much quicker than the 4! Thanks for all the help.
  20. Problem solved! After taking the carb off for a cleaning, I couldn't get the primary Auxiliary venturi off! Turns out the brass insert in the venturi had slid half a cm toward the float bowl, and rotated such that the opening was facing sideways instead of down toward the throttle valve. This was all but completely blocking fuel to the primary throat. I've attached some pictures of the before and after look at the venturi for the sake of explanation. The brass tube felt quite loose in its hole, so I shimmed it with a piece of beer can and tapped it back in with a pen, with the little fuel windows facing down.
  21. If I do this fuel is shot out of the jets up the top and it revs just fine--it seems like the issue is that when I open the throttle enough that the primary opens, as soon as the fuel from the accelerator pump is consumed, it starts gasping and will stall if the throttle is open. Together with the fact that the problem hasn't changed after I replaced the condenser and points this morning, has me firmly in the fueling issue camp. I have taken the carb off to give it a thorough clean, even though I put a kit through it about 4 months ago. The main jets are not blocked, and neither are the emulsifier/air corrector bits. The primary venturi is so completely stuck that I can't lift it up, so I will keep trying to remove it and then can clear out the passages. Cheers
  22. The change came on so quickly I think something else must be happening, even if it is compounding the lean condition... It's the dizzy off of the 4k, bosch points dizzy. I'll track down the part numbers and get a condenser, coil and points in at the local parts shop ASAP, and update from there! But I would've thought from what I have read that Altezza is right that the condensor could cause the bogging, but would be all or nothing--it wouldn't recover again at higher revs. Is there some way to test a condensor? Either in the car on a bench?
  23. Thanks a lot Altezza. I've done as you've said and cleaned out the passages twice since I cleaned the jets out--although the bowl and jets looked pretty good to start. The fact that it bogs down exclusively in the range of the primary jet was what made me suspect a fuel issue, but the pump is working fine, float and needle and seat fine, and yes you can see fuel shooting down the throats when the throttle is opened. There is a pretty substantial "sucking" sound when it bogs down, which sounds like the engine groping for more fuel? I know the jetting of the carb was on the lean side having been set up for a bog stock 4k--is it possible that as the piston rings seated and the motor started pulling more fuel, the lean condition got worse and worse? Seems extreme to say the least, but I'm clutching at anything in the hope my new motor is not buggered haha! Ideally I'd be able to borrow a compression gauge of someone and check that just to rule that out too.
  24. Mmm I cranked a couple of litres of fuel into a bucket this morning and it looks fine... I'm wondering whether it may in fact be electrical. I'm not too sure what role the condensor and coil could play in all of this, but I might look at changing them both so I can at least rule them out.
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