Wingsforwheels

Interesting discussion Banjo... For what it's worth I am currently rebuilding a 5K of unknown origin with a head number 18... Nothing on the WIKI about this one either, but it has deep dished pistons (with the kidney shaped dishing). It has lugs under plugs 1 and 4, and is also missing the outlet from the rear block off plate.

It was actually pretty easy with an assistant--once the clutch was aligned I put some molly grease on the gearbox spline and just lay under the gearbox, lifted it onto my stomach as Banjo suggested, and lined up the bellhousing with the motor. I had a friend lift the extension housing up and sort of steer the box into place while I lined it up. A bit of wiggling around and it went in pretty easy, then I just held it from underneath while he put the bolts in. Had to jack it up by the extension housing the get the crossmember back on, so the weight wasn't hanging off the motor too much. It'd be harder with another gearbox, but honestly you can lift this one above your head without too much strain! Jasper

Thanks a lot Banjo, just got in late last night! Safe drive in the end, avoided too many gear changes. Now to procrastinate pulling it all apart again... Hope you had a nice Christmas Jasper

Thanks Si, I ended up putting a couple of hose clamps between on the cable at the firewall, since it had stretched out so much. All sorted then! Thanks everyone

Is there maybe another way to adjust the cable? It just feels like the pedal hits the floor before the clutch release arm moves far enough forward... It seems like cables should have an adjusting nut at the trans end,but mine doesn't!

Got the gearbox on, everything else went back together no trouble! The issue now is that the clutch doesn't want to disengage... The pedal goes to the floor without any friction point, though looking into the gap in the dust boot, the release arm is pushing the pressure plate. I adjusted the pedal height and free play as the Gregorys suggests, but it made no difference. Is it likely the clutch is installed incorrectly? Or could this be a cable issue? Thanks!

You are a lot more accurate than me! Unless I needed to wiggle the gearbox another way to get it in. I guess the morning will tell!

Also I think the clutch had just exploded all at once--it was in about five parts, and there were bits of spring all through the bell housing

Alright: I went and got a universal alignment tool from supercheap, but it was too big for the clutch. Tried to eyeball it but I couldn't get it quite right after a couple of goes, i.e. The gearbox shafts wouldn't go in. So I think I'll have to go get a new alignment tool in the morning and try to fit the clutch tomorrow. A little frustrating but we'll get there:) Thanks everyone for the advice

Thanks for the fast response Banjo! Just quick update: transfer off, new clutch going. But I snapped one of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts... What do you guys think of driving home to melbw with the other five bolts holding the plate on, and then fixing it as soon as I'm there?

Thanks a lot guys, about halfway through now and have found that the return spring from the clutch arm is missing: is it likely this is causing the clutch to not fully engage? Cheers

Your confidence is contagious Graeme!

Most people on the interweb at least talk about using a transmission jack, which looks a wider hydraulic jack with more supports for the box than my standard trolley has

Thanks for you help guys--I don;t think there is any chance of me borrowing a trans jack before tomorrow, but Jeremy's comments have me a bit worried... Have others had experience changing a clutch on ramps with a couple of guys and/or a trolley jack to support the gearbox? Thinking of a flat piece of plywood or similar on top of the jack? Thanks for putting up with me, total newbie!

It's just bad timing--I have to drive home to Melbourne on Christmas day and I have a 5k at home ready to swap in. Was going to change the clutch at the same time, so after the trip home on the new clutch, I'll have the flywheel machined and put the clutch back in. Is it going to be terrible for the new clutch to be broken in on the old flywheel before have it machined?

Just a quick update: having had a look as Banjo suggested, it looks (to my untrained eye) like everything is moving as it should. It also looks like nothing is oil saturated, so hopefully that rules out a catastrophic main seal failure. I think Graeme's suggestion that a finger has broken off the pressure plate or something similar seems likely. I've got a clutch kit coming overnight to Repco in Fyshwick, so I should be able to grab it in the morning. A mate and I will spend the day trying to change it tomorrow, and see how we go. I've read a few posts on here and the service manual re: changing a clutch, hoping I can do it without a transmission jack. If anyone has any extra tips any advice is appreciated since I've never done a clutch job before! Thanks heaps!! Jasper

I will give this a go tomorrow and post the results, thanks! I did wonder about this, since rear main seal is leaking pretty badly. If it is this, I guess I'll be looking at a clutch and seal change, unless there is some way to "degrease" the clutch? Thanks a lot

No it hasn't been changed for a little while I believe--don't know when the previous owner changed it, but I have done a couple of thousand of KMs since I got it. There was no noise except the engine revving, but what sort of noise could I be looking for? I am in Fyshwick, but the car is in Yarralumla, but it is still (somewhat) driveable! Thanks guys!

Hi guys, I've developed a sudden issue that has me stumped... After driving to a mates place today without issue, I got back in the car and we drove off--It was fine with the clutch in, felt a bit funny in first, and then into second the car felt like the clutch was slipping A LOT. i.e. If I put my foot down it revs freely rather than actually accelerating, and only accelerates if I am very gentle with the throttle. It was behaving like this through every gear, but got worse the higher the gear. I've checked the clutch cable at both ends to make sure the clutch is engaging (as far as the cable is responsible, anyway) Is it possible the clutch is shot even if it was fine one second and undriveable the next? Or is there something else at play? Any help much appreciated, since I'm in Canberra for the week, and was hoping to drive back next week! Jasper

Hi Rolla drivers! I'm currently finishing off a slightly worked 5K motor to drop in to my ke55. Right now it has no pushrods, and I've been told by the previous owner that it needs 156mm ones. It has hydraulic lifters. I was just hoping someone could clarify the part number for 156mm pushrods, because there are two numbers floating around: I found here bLinded_ said that 13781-13100 is the number for 156mm pushrods and 13781-13081 are the 150mm ones. These numbers are the other way round on the wiki here: https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Push_Rods I think the ones on the wiki might just be a type, since bLinded_ posted a photo and measurement on his thread, but if anyone is able to say for sure which number it is, it'll save me a lot of hassle! Cheers!!

I'm assuming the carb on your kp60 would be the same as on a 4k ke55? If so I'll post a picture of the gregory's manual I used to kit my carb. There's also a video running through rebuilding an aisan carb--haven't watched it myself but others have recommended it:

Hi Rebuilder, I'm glad to hear the run on is (kind of) a good sign! Although I didn't know that run on could (or should) be reduced without a solenoid. I have recently changed plugs to ngk bpr5ey. Banjo mentioned on another thread that they are a common choice in 4kc motors. There is no carbon build up on the plugs, is there anywhere else I should be looking? I only fill her up with 98 octane, so I can rule out fuel as a factor.

Thanks for the tip Banjo, putting a cable tie around the top shifter boot has made the car a whole lot less smelly... Potentially the exhaust is due for some inspection!

While I'm at it, does anyone have a spare anti-dieseling solenoid around? You said you might have one Altezza? I'm getting pretty bad run-on after the ignition is switched off! Happy to give you some money + postage of course

Just a quick update: I put a kit through the carby yesterday, changing all the gaskets, everything on the accelerator pump and the float valve. I also did the intake manifold gaskets of both sides for good measure. It is now running much better, and idling just fine! It does sound a little bit "clicky" so I'm now going to look at dizzy timing and valve clearances in the next couple of days. Thanks so much for all the help!