Papay

Head arrived yesterday, haven't had a chance to unpack it yet. Went to look at a 5K short block today, still had 80.5 bores. Probably will pick it up for about $140 AUS.

Supposedly 4age pistons and/or rods can work, but i'm going to have to do some careful research and math before buying anything. Speaking of the manifolds, has anyone on here experimented with making a phenolic spacer insulator between them? I'm not interested in quick warmup, just reducing heat transfer.

Well I may not give them that much credit...this is Philippines, they are more aligned with doing it the cheapest way rather than the best way. To give you an example, when I visited the machine shop to get a rough estimate, they assumed I would want to sleeve the block. Why? Because then I could use cheaper stock sized pistons. I was like WTF? Sleeving seems like a hell of a lot of work and I'm not sure I would trust the outcome. Anyway, being judicious and making proper plans is where I am at the moment. So sourcing some proper 81mm pistons is going to be part of this, but right now just focusing on the immediate need which is the head gasket, and hence the head itself. Since I don't have much space to work, I find it wise to do all the necessary stuff on a separate head, then just swap it on. Later I'll acquire a block and build it up with proper balancing and a healthy cam, etc. What is the particular advantage of the single piece gasket? I was curious why the gaskets came split. The single piece ones do look meatier. Ive already acquired an extra dual plane exhaust mani and intake manifold, so the plan is to shave them down together and match ports as you suggest. Getting a proper downpipe made might be a bit of a trick. Any recommendation for valve springs? This won't be a race car, just thinking ahead.

These engines are quite popular where I live, and I'm betting the machine shop has a standard refurb sequence. I'll to the initial cleanup on it and CC the chambers to see what I'm working with.

Great, that's the answer I was looking for. I know there is some confusion about casting numbers and exterior bumps, so I wanted to be sure. Any problem skimming a 0.5 to 1.0mm on a 5K? I was thinking they already had 10.5:1 compression, does that sound right? Will see how bad the water jacket corrosion is after it arrives I guess.

I'm getting ready to sort out the head gasket leak on the Papay van, so I acquired this head online. It was advertised as a 5K, although I don't really know if I could spot the difference. For what its worth, it has the same '100' casting as the head on my 5K engine right now. Have also ordered a Toyota head gasket, new head bolts, and other hardware in anticipation of the project.

Speaking of which, we just had the plugs out and cleaned them over the weekend. Everything looked good there, but at the time I wasn't looking specifically for signs. The Welsh plugs are a good thought, I remember reading about issues with those in other threads. Here are the part numbers I have on my "may need to order this" list: 96412-01800 front freeze plug (sm) 96411-43500 side freeze plugs (3) 96432-23814 rear freeze plug (#1, lg) 96411-44500 rear freeze plug (#2 ,lg) I remember as a kid helping my Dad work on his Mopars, and we always replaced the steel plugs with brass ones to prevent future rust. Is this an option with Toyotas?

Well, trip over the mountain yesterday was uneventful. Temps never even reached the half-way mark, through some fairly steep climbs. After we reached our destination, we stopped for a bit so I decided to check the water level. Overflow bottle still full, but the radiator was down about half a liter from where we started. So yeah, I'm suspecting a bad head gasket at this point. Now I'm thinking the kind of 'chuffly' sound this van makes is not just a leaky exhaust, its probably the head gasket. At least nothing is getting into the oil. Gotta say, for a 25 year old pushrod engine, this little lump amazes me. It runs incredibly smooth, oil stays really clean, no tapping noises or slop, etc.

I already put in a brand new Evercool 3-row radiator (not sure where made). It runs cool as a stone around town, so I think the thermal capability is pretty good overall. Two observations made since yesterday which concern me: 1) a kind of milky slime in the t-stat housing, 2) white smoke from the exhaust at higher rpms. So I'm thinking a new head gasket may be in store.

Confirmed no t-stat installed. Spent the better part of the afternoon with my father in law making a bracket to hang the overflow bottle, Philippine style. Yes you are correct, no coolant until I can keep everything in the system haha. After installing and filling the overflow bottle, we took it for an extended drive with no issues. Today was cooler, however, but tomorrow is a trip over the mountain. Fingers crossed..... My theory is the weight of the water in the bottle would serve to prevent casual splashing at the neck from getting through the overflow tube -- it has a volume of water pushing back against it. Will keep an eye on things and plan to install a thermostat. Would like to find a 'natural' coolant if anyone has any suggestions. Not that I am against paying for coolant, but many times where I live things are not as available as I would like them to be. The block was surprisingly clean when I had the water pump off, after running straight water for who knows how long.

I know this is a Corolla forum, but you guys have the K motors Just replaced the water pump and hoses on my 5K. This engine has a radiator cap on the water neck, owing to the position of the radiator in the KM30. Today while running the engine with the cap removed, I observed at higher RPMs that water churns right out the top. Is this normal behavior? I had expected sort of an 'upwelling' of water coming up out of the head to the water neck and rad hose. But this shoots out with enough force that it is also going out my overflow hose, which attaches in the same location as the top rad hose. This explains why I lose about a liter of water over the course of a 20 minute highway drive, and also why poking around town it won't really lose much water at all (no overflow bottle, long story). I do not believe there is any thermostat installed, tomorrow I will pull the t-stat housing and have a look. It occurs to me perhaps the t-stat normally would prevent the churning that I'm seeing. Any thoughts?

Cool, cool, cool Love to see any in-process pics you want to share. What powertrain do these have?

Hey there fellow Liteace owner. Hope you can give us an intro about your van and engine. Mine is 5K also. 7K will fit. Around here some of them were built with 2c or 2ct diesels. When you are searching, you can also search for Townace, since many of those are the same platform as Liteace.

Spent the last two weeks messing with the carb. It was an original Aisan, but ended up opting for a Chinese copy. I know.... Old carbie was running *fine* -- sorta -- except I had to go and mess with it. Figured it was time to install the rebuild kit that I've had laying around since last year. Apparently the vacuum secondary was clogged, because it looked like it has been running as a single-barrel for years. Mixture screw was turned out 7 turns. Biggest obstacle was sourcing the right material for the base plate gaskets, which did not come with the kit. Who knew it could be so difficult. After the rebuild, turns out the throttle shafts were leaking, so I ended up with a new carb anyway. Two big takeaways on this project, that gave me fits: 1. The Chinese copy takes certain liberties with the design. For example they changed the thread size and orientation of the fuel bung. They increased the diameter of the float pivot pin. Little things that can p*ss you off. In my case, I ended up swapping the old top cover from the Aisan onto the Chinese carb to ease my aggravation. My advise would be to check EVERYTHING, so you don't get surprised by, say, a vacuum hole not matching the gasket. Or the accelerator cable stopper being too large for the hole in the linkage, etc. 2. It took me several days longer than it should have, to figure out why the engine would stop running after about 10 seconds. This occurred while I kept messing with the base plate gaskets, so my mind was preoccupied with the idea of vacuum leaks. Turns out, the float needle was not *quite* seating. I had checked it by blowing through the fuel inlet with the needle closed, and figured the tiny trickle of air getting by was OK. Not OK. This is what can happen when mixing and matching parts.

OK lads, After fussing with my old and crusty Aisan for nearly a week, I threw in the towel after realizing gas was leaking out the main shafts. A few days later, and I have a nice and shiny Chinese copy sitting on the wife's kitchen table. Ahh, but it looks like some changes occurred in the design. - Top cover of new carb had the fuel inlet clocked 90 degrees the wrong way, and a different thread size for the central air inlet stem bolt. To save aggravation, I just swapped in my old top cover (painted black because ugly). - Circled in green here looks to be a bimetallic switch which is controlling vacuum by some preset temperature. This feature wasn't on the old carbie. It's connected from the top of the inlet to the bottom throttle body port. Why? - Related to this is the two upside-down screws in the throttle plate, which are now standard screws on the newer design. The old carbie had the pass-thru port in one of the screws, presumably serving a similar function to the new switch design. I guess I want to understand this bypass function a little better, and learn if the new switch is an improvement over the hollow screw.

I was on a VW kick for the better part of 25 years, and have tried my hand at various plastic modification and/or repair projects. The most ambitious was a custom Golf Cabrio bumper with shaved lights and other mods. The best filler plastic you can use is from somewhere else on the same part, say for example an un-needed rib on the inside. At one time I had one of those plastic welding kits with the different types of plastic rods. Overall, I can say that NONE of the projects have been very successful over time. The key is penetration, just like in metal welding. No matter how deeply I have tried to fill and keep both sides melted, the end result is always something that looks good but cracks easily later. By comparison, I have had equal luck with methods like epoxy and gorilla glue. Most recently I have repaired the brittle headlight surrounding trim on the Papay van, which went about six months before re-breaking. There is a product I have not tried, which is more like a mini torch designed for industrial fabrication. My suggestion is if you're going to do this on a hard-to-obtain cosmetic part, that you reenforce it on the back, i.e. bridge the gap with an epoxy 'splint' to take any mechanical load.

Well, shite! Impressive and ambitious!

How has the tape and paint held up? I'm more curious about the heat reduction and acoustics than I am about cosmetics. Looking to reduce engine compartment temps & noise as much as possible.

Stellar findings, and applied theory Banjo. Threads like this are why I joined rollaclub, even though I don't have a 'rolla. Bringing this back, because after reading through completely and considering my 5K application in a van (between the seats), some comments / questions come to mind. 1. Have Toyota forklifts been considered as a source for alternate configurations of cooling systems / parts? Did a quick look around, but seems like without a known part number it is difficult to look anything up on the forklifts. 2. What is the recommended cleaning or de-rusting method for a vehicle that has been running straight water for an unknown period of time? I have recently upgraded to a 3-core radiator, and a new water pump was going to be next on my list. Anything that can be checked or flushed with the engine in the vehicle, I am game. Any recommendations when shopping for a water pump? 3. Regarding radiator caps and bleeding the system, it may interest some of you Rolla owners to know there is a 5K/4K water neck available with a filler cap right on the top. Toyota part number 16304-13050, as configured for a Liteace / Townace. 4. Regarding electric fans vs. clutch fans, there is a lot of interest in this subject over on Toyotavantech.com. Since the vans are presumably heavier, with the radiator buried underneath, you can imagine the problems that ensue. Some very thoughtful research and experimentation there has shown that nothing beats the raw cooling power of the mechanical clutch fan. Albeit, with a penalty of horsepower loss. My plan is to keep the clutch fan but run electric fan(s) on the AC condenser, on a thermo switch, once I source a custom AC system. No doubt in a lighter corolla, with the radiator in front, the fans are only needed at stoplights as your data seems to show. 5. Glad to see the fan shroud made minimal difference in your application. Bonus points for freeing up wasted water bottle space! 6. In Philippines, these cars never even had a heater installed. But I never knew the importance of the bypass hose, thank you for that. 7. Do you see any value in monitoring the head temperature or exhaust temperature? From my air-cooled days, this has always been something that stuck with me, as the ultimate thing to keep an eye on (along with oil pressure). Appreciate any insights you want to share about 'essential' gauges when it comes to the K-series engine.

Donuts will be used but I want to make a stainless flange because the rest of the system will be stainless. Getting the dimensions accurate was my goal, but I may just end up tracing the old one.

I'll add my own finding, casting mark 100 and no lug under #4. This engine is currently in my Liteace, and I have no knowledge of its history. It had the wrong water neck and wrong radiator fitted, which I believe were both from a Tamaraw. I have not been able to peek inside to see which pistons it has. In Philippines car were imported in pieces and then reassembled, so anything is possible.

Update, I'm swapping to an electronic distributor today, and had an opportunity to do some cleaning. Grabbed this casting number on the head. Does that help the head / piston question? Also playing around with paint options in Photoshop. Wife is really into white, so we are leaning toward this combo. Still have a long list of ongoing repairs to make, *whoo*. Did I mention it is fricking hot here?

Turns out the toyota gasket is just two little donuts. I guess I need to buy the subaru gasket and see if it is a match, which would save a lot of time since these flanges are readily available.

Hello people, On my 5K, am planning to run a cast-iron exhaust manifold with the dual-downpipe exit. This has a 3-bolt attachment, whose flange looks just like the one for a Subaru EJ20 (but I don't know if it is the same). Does anyone have a source for the Toyota flange in stainless? Or has anyone made a drawing pattern of it? Having a hell of a time finding the subaru flange dimensions to compare, or even the toyota gasket dimensions. (My van, but not my actual paint job)

Does anyone know if these commonly available 2.8mm pins are compatible with Toyota connectors?