TRD ke70

yeah it would it there is no water getting around the throttle body(the thing the the accelerator cable attaches to) does the temp gauge work?

thanks guys, we are getting there slowly. Tony managed to get the front of the engine all buttoned up, so we are getting closer to starting the little thing. sorry about the photos, were taken with a phone.

Today was pretty good, seamed to get lots done. Tony finished the oil cooler lines and degreeing the cams, so the front is almost ready to go together. I made the accelerator bracket up,modified the rocker covers and painted them, then finished off making the thermostat housing blanking plate and a couple of gaskets for the water outlets. Also installed the oil return hose from the head and modified it to take the breather pipes. Carby's were bolted up for the last time hopefully, and then new air cleaners fitted. I'm thinking it'll be ready in a couple of weeks to start!!! :yes: Oh, and we should have a new chrome rear bumper by then too!!! 1KG battery

Good to hear it didn't damage anything.

Not sure, but i'll be checking it out. the car need a new alternator so now is a good idea to replace it.

Anyone looking for a good wheel aligner in Toowoomba should check this guy out. He is a personal friend of mine and does exceptional work.

here's the link, wasn't cheap but worth it. Battery

go to ae86 driving club and download the manual!!

Just a quick update. the last of the oil cooler fittings have turned up, so that can be finished. Degreeing of the cams is been done. Accelerator bracket has been made and fitted. New K&N filers are here, just waiting on the pre-filters. And the 1kg battery has arrived, lithium-ion as well, very nice.

Cam shaft gear locating pin snapped because the bolt is loose!

NO!!! you need the right length push rods as well. The push rods in your engine will have the wrong ends.

I can understand your frustration but it is the easiest way to describe the piston. Tony has a pic in a Genuine manual that shows the pic of the twin squish, I'll see if i can get a copy. Either way, the head with lugs has the deeper dished pistons. This is good information for the wiki, maybe it could be updated!!

Interesting stuff, but i think some of the info is miss leading!!! The twin squish (the one with the lugs under the No 1 spark plug) is the most common and is the one with dished pistons and hyd lifters. The next is the flat top piston engine, which doesn't have the lugs, but these also have hyd lifters. The most uncommon 5k has flat top pistons and adjustable rockers. There is also another head for a 5k which has a step in the combustion chamber, but these are very rare. The only way to tell if you have an engine with solid lifters, is to pull off the rocker cover!! 3F land cruiser lifters are 5k solids, the part number in Toyota's EPC shows this, also check the wiki as there is a pic in there with the part numbers. The biggest problem appears to be matching the push rod lengths to the cylinder head.

Or you could have a factory fitted adjustable rockers, in which case replace them with 4k rockers. It could be a simple as just worn rocker arms!! My guess would be, someone has bodged them up using NON-STANDARD(Chev-Datsun)parts and this is the problem you get.

:lolcry: Oh so true!!! He came around the other night saying he was going to do some work on it. I'll believe it when i see it.

The plan was to video it starting up for the first time, unless it throws a leg out of bed. :lolcry: I think it's still a couple of weeks way though, have come across a few problem that need sorted first. I think Teddy was also going to do something for you tube on the build as well.

The earlier 5 speed is the same box pretty much, just a different tail housing. All you need to do is change the rear housing. And a little bit of useless information, the shorter 5 speed was in production longer as they were fitted to the RWD starlets up to 86-87. Thanks Mr Alt, yeah i couldn't remember which ratio was the auto.

If they Au KE70's they should have either a 4.1 or 4.3 ratio. I think the 4.3 came in the sedan and the 4.1 in the auto(could be wrong) If it is a Jap center, it should have a 3.9 ratio(there may be a 4.1 as well) I think the panel vans and wagons had this ratio. easy to tell, if the center pulls out the front, it's a Jap diff.

If you find it needs some work, i use to do car A/C, can steer you in the right direction.

Little round thingy is a capacitor!! I'd do a fuel pump pressure test, should be about 3 psi.

Not sure what engine it came out with so here's both diagrams. ACE - 0.pdf ACE - 092.pdf

Thanks guys Well a little further forward today, the aim is to try and get the engine running within the next couple of weeks, that way we can get the head re-torqued. Still waiting on oil cooler fittings(hence only one line on the engine at the moment)oil bypass from Toyota,Thermostat from Toyota,Cam cover rubbers,a sump bung, and fuel hose. I finished off the wiring for the fuel pump and the starter motor. Also welded up the cracks in the air cleaner bases. I have no idea what Tony was doing, but it didn't look like f@$k All!! Test fitted the extractors Fuel pump wiring done. Cam gears fitted

Very slow day, but got a little more stuff done. intake manifold has now been studded, and Tony is now working on the throttle setup and plumbing up the oil cooler. I'm spent most of the day grinding, bogging and painting the new scuttle panel and also the fuel tank cut out in the boot. So tomorrow fuel tank can be bolted in and wiring run to the pump and tank sender. Have to weld the K&N filter housings as they are cracked, 10 years of rally does that!!

If you need a hand with the A/C wiring, let me know. I think you'll be ok though, it's pretty simple stuff. Sounds like she'll be a beastie when your finished.

Urbanville is canceled dew to lack of entries :bash: .