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carbonboy

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Everything posted by carbonboy

  1. carbonboy
    Give the whole engine a good clean (top up the oil also), take it for a drive & then check for leaks. That way you should be able to tell if it is the sump or if it's dripping down from somewhere else. I'd fix the leak first, otherwise you're just wasting the oil you change over. Sure, it's not major, but a leak's a leak.
  2. carbonboy
    I'm on my phone so I can't upload you a copy, but Google '4AGE manual' & you should find it in PDF form. It'll tell you how to test the TPS using a multimeter to determine if it is working correctly.
  3. carbonboy
    snot35's on the money, just regular plasticine from a toy shop. WD40 srayed over it & the cylinder head stops it sticking, but it still makes a little mess. Finally back where it belongs. Still have to connect everything other than engine mounts, but looking good for some fun this weekend.
  4. carbonboy
    They downside is, once you start using them, they don't stay shiny for long. :( Hit a small snag, "I'll just check that the rear main seal retainer bolts are tight".....*SNAP*.....*MUCH PROFANITY*. Completely mangled the thread removing the remains, so had to drill/tap for the next thread size up. Attempt Number 2 tonight.
  5. carbonboy
    Productive weekend was productive. Tomorrow the flywheel/clutch/gearbox go on & it's back into the engine bay for Round Two.
  6. carbonboy
    Dummy-assembled the engine to check piston to valve clearance. 2.9mm on the Intake, 7.5mm on the Exhaust. Happy. Days.
  7. carbonboy
    Out of everything that I have ever experienced in my life that has been nerve-wracking, honing engine cylinder bores is definitely up there. Gave it a damn good clean, flushed out all the galleries, air gun dry then a coat of WD40 & it's currently on the stand covered in cling wrap. On a side note, picked up the cylinder head from its freshen up. All the valve guides replaced, valves/seats machined, new stem seals & all clearances set. Ready for 4A-G4C V2.0.
  8. carbonboy
    Well, things are a little bit chaotic but still making progress. Decided against using the 20v pistons & started cleaning up the 16v pistons. Only to find this on #2. Spoke to an engine builder, who believes that was caused by detonation, either from heat buildup in the carbon deposits or from incorrect timing. Definitely something to be aware of now that I am going to be using these. Waiting on parts to be able to dummy-assemble the engine & check for piston/valve clearance. Hoping for 1.5mm+, back to square one if not. Cylinder head is also getting sone treatment, valve guides replaced & basically a full recondition.
  9. carbonboy
    The ECU from the EFI setup can be used for ignition, but will most likely keep throwing up error codes with the lack of MAP sensor, air intake temp sensor, TPS & injectors. An aftermarket ignition-only unit will do the job nicely, I've had no dramas (post-tuning) with my MSD.
  10. carbonboy
    Some knowledgeable-evil-bastard on the FaceTubes has suggested putting 20v pistons in to up the compression a little. Not really keen to spend a heap more money on parts, but, I happen to have a set of 20v pistons/rods sitting around. Albeit inside a block that is for the turbo-engine dream, but if they prove to be useful, will throw them in.
  11. carbonboy
    Got the head off, all four bores look like this: Once the honing brush I ordered arrives, the plan is to hone the bores, a new set of cast rings (instead of chrome), some gaskets/seals & slap it back together.
  12. carbonboy
    I currently work in Prahran, even living 10min from there is a tad out of my tax-bracket. :D Stage 1 complete, the engine's out & on a stand. Fun times ahead.
  13. carbonboy
    On the bright side, it's better than a piston-sized hole in the block I guess... I'd like to have it done in time, touch-wood all goes well, will definitely be a faster build than the first time around as I have the benefit of having done it before. My hatred of public transport is fuelling my motivation. :)
  14. carbonboy
    Well, that didn't go well. Got the new slides, installed/synched them & still same-same. Tweaked everything I could with no luck. Compression test revealed that the piston rings are the likely culprits, currently in the process of removing the engine to disassemble/replace/reassemble. F**k I hate public transport.
  15. carbonboy
    Still waiting for parts to be delivered, miss driving BT a lot. :( On the bright side, made a NY Resolution.
  16. carbonboy
    You're right, some internet sleuthing later I've found that the 4WD was an option from the KE models onward & not exactly common. One of the things I like about the VMC is that (round depending) we run a reverse-order after the lunch break. So if you ran first in your class, you then went last. You can run out of order if you've had a mechanical drama etc, but they get kinda annoyed when you do.
  17. carbonboy
    Also, on a side note, Ford Laser TX3's were AWD were they not? Thus, he would be ineligible for Class C & would be in Class E. I don't see him beating the WRX STI anytime soon, but good luck to him.
  18. carbonboy
    In hindsight, Top 3 might be a bit ambitious, I'll be quite happy with Top 5 provided I can compete in the majority of the rounds. Ummm.....wow. I find it rather strange people take motorkhana that seriously. It's not surprising, I just don't get it. But I'm sure these people exist at every level of motorsport. Motorkhana to me is good, cheap, legitimate fun. I didn't swap engines to win trophies. The gentleman who finished second in Class A did so in standard N13 Pulsar, it's not always about money. Have a safe New Years & I'll catch you at Round 1.
  19. carbonboy
    Progress worth posting about, still needs more work, but for the most part, what sunroof?
  20. carbonboy
    I'll get there, third time's a charm right? Wouldn't mind doing some sprints/hillclimbs this year, but the main objective for me is to finish in the Top 3 in VMC Class A. To do that would be awesome. If you check the final results from this year, of the Top 10 Production Cars: 1st - FWD, 2nd - RWD, 3rd to 9th - FWD & 10th - RWD. Even removing two FWD cars that had two drivers & thus placed twice, that still puts another two FWD in the Top 10. :P ^^
  21. carbonboy
    I'm going to be nit-picky here, but VMC points were awarded for that round based off these results. :)
  22. carbonboy
    A lot of prep-work is going in before the roof skin is attached, for instance the two braces that support the roof needed to be welded into place properly after I drilled out the spot welds. Also the holes that I made with the cut-off wheel on the grinder when removing the old skin needed to be patched up. A-Pillars patched up. Once I've patched the C-Pillars, the roof skin needs to be rust-treated, then it can be welded on.
  23. carbonboy
    Pretty sure I now remember what you do for a living. :)
  24. carbonboy
    RE001's have been replaced by the RE002's, if they're out of budget, maybe try the MY02's. I haven't used them myself, but I will be once the Toyos wear out. Having said that, the Kumho KU31's are decent tyre, quite happy with them on my old Twin Cam.
  25. carbonboy
    Don't forget to keep in mind that the chances of two, possibly three rounds being cancelled due to weather, venue dramas etc. If all eleven rounds are held, I'll be impressed. The way I see it is, you have until September to get a RWD Corolla & prove me & Blue Thing wrong. :P Also, last year one of the VMC rounds was the AMC. We just removed non-VMC competitors to get the VMC results. At least, I think that's how it worked. *shrugs*
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