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carbonboy

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Everything posted by carbonboy

  1. carbonboy
    Did the stuff in your catch can look something like this?
  2. carbonboy
    I'm using the MTX-L from Innovate Motorsport, costs about $220. Seems to operate just fine & very handy for carb-tuning, you also have the ability to data-log the info via laptop. I haven't tested it back to back with another unit, but it refreshes the readings pretty quickly & appears to be relatively accurate.
  3. carbonboy
    A bit late, but I'll vouch for the LPG switch, I run one on Blue Thing & it hasn't missed a beat. It has a one second prime time, maybe the three second model would work better.
  4. carbonboy
    So this, to an extent, is somewhat normal? I've got replacement filters coming in the mail from the UK, as this oil/water mix eats away at them & mine are...sort of mangled. They're ~AUD$55 a pair posted, so not too bad. Also noticed that when I had the fuel bowl vent lines connected to the charcoal canister, it leaned out massively when applying the throttle. No load, just revving while stationary. Disconnect vent lines from canister, runs well again. Fine, they can stay that way.
  5. carbonboy
    That chocolate milkshake buildup has happened again, made some revisions to the setup. The catch can has been moved from under the intake manifold to near the battery, the charcoal canister purge line no longer goes to it but back to the factory location & the carburetor fuel bowl vent lines have been connected back up to the charcoal canister. Here's hoping that I have less of this drama.
  6. carbonboy
    Blue Thing is loving the colder temperatures (me, not so much), regularly seeing leaner readings from the wideband & low-9's L/100km. Have been doing some reading into what the maximum ignition advance I can run is, 35-38º seems to be the ballpark. Need to find the charger for the laptop so I can doing some tweaking. :( Had a small scare, noticed that there was a chocolate-milkshake-like residue on my air filters. It was coming from the vent hoses I have there that come from the catch-can, venting the oil vapour. Checked the engine oil, no water there. Checked for bubbles in the radiator, none. Removed the catch-can & hoses & they were clogged up with the chocolate-milkshake goop, there was also a few tablespoons of water in the catch-can. Probably a good thing I used stainless steel wool as a filter medium or it may have been messier. Currently running with no filter in the catch-can to see if it makes any difference. No damage was done, but it's niggling me trying to work out how the water got there. It might possibly have gotten there while driving in our recent weather, but the more plausible theory is that it's a buildup of condensation. Other than that, I've got nothing.
  7. carbonboy
    That's true, it is a bit of a ghost town sometimes. Azza91 (he's here as well) was the last person I know of making/selling them, he may still have the image files.
  8. carbonboy
    Have you spoken to either Mitch or EvilTwin regarding doing this?
  9. carbonboy
    Can't help but think that that bloke has a bit more of an idea as to what he is doing than what I did (do?). He may still have a few late-night troubleshooting sessions though, best of luck to him! Edit: Although he is in the UK, I found they are big on this conversion over there (mainly on 2L Ford Zetec engines) so he shouldn't have too many dramas.
  10. carbonboy
    It seems that until I change the jets, about 10L/100km is going to be what I see, which I can live with. There's more (less?) in it through some more tuning, so that's the good news. :yes: I'm not even going to start a rant about TA. The first time I remember being allowed to pump fuel for my Dad, it was 63c/L (& a Datto 200B), I also remember the uproar when it cracked the ton. I don't consider myself old (mostly denial really), so that means you're not old. I paid 179.something/L last night, saw 10.36L/100km. Am trying United 98 this time around just to add to the little experiment. Am also seeing leaner mixtures in the mid-range, but this could be due to lower ambient air-temperatures more than anything. This was all setup in 30 degree weather, tuned again in mid-20's weather, now it's getting down to the mid-teens & single-figure temperatures when I drive. I'm not complaining...at least once the heater warms up anyway.
  11. carbonboy
    So much better, I'm no expert but for an NA 1.6L 4-cylinder engine to use that much fuel per 100km, something's not right! Mind you, I find myself thinking "Yeah, I'l shift at 4,000rpm.....next thing I know it's 6,000-ish rpm. :blush: It seems there might be thing with 4A-G's & BP PULP compared to Shells PULP, you're one of a few people to mention positive changes when they made the switch. I'm not trying to play scientist, most of the chemistry will go straight over my head. But if any other 4A-GE owners have any feedback regarding this, I'd be happy to hear it. Cooler air temperatures could also be helping my cause, once I can get the A/F ratios right, I might have a play with advancing the timing a few degrees higher up in the rev range, or maybe that should be something that should wait until on a dyno? :hmm: I keep forgetting how lucky we are up this way re: fuel prices, I think the most I've paid lately for 98 has been 181.9/L. Has it broken the $2.00/L barrier down your way at all? (Please excuse my ignorance) I'm not complaining about the fuel economy (nothing compared to that of a boosted engine of course), it's actually not that much higher than the 2A-C. Most likely because you had to rev the hell out of it just to avoid being a hazard to other motorists, let alone go up a hill without downshifting & burying the go pedal in the carpet.
  12. carbonboy
    I don't care if I can only achieve this once, managed to bust under the 10L/100km mark, 9.93L/100km or 10.07km/L. Not sure if driving habits changed or due to switching from Shell Vortex to BP Ultimate, could be the fuel as it is running 0.5 leaner on the A/F gauge all through the rev range with no other changes made. *shrugs*
  13. carbonboy
    There appears to still be a leak.....a smaller one than before but still...fffffffffffffor crying out loud! I just want it to be things I want to do, like velocity stacks, castor bushes, rear disc-brake conversion, haha! :) I'd rather just fix the leak, I don't like leaking fluids, automotive or bodily.
  14. carbonboy
    Moved this yet again, sorted a place to work on it all, looking forward to condensing a heap of space-consuming car parts into a functioning vehicle. Change of plans though, no more rollcage or turbocharged engine for Gokai. Keeping her a street car, the nice looking one compared to BT. I'm still going to have a vehicle with those two things, but I'm thinking something along the lines of this, but cheaper.
  15. carbonboy
    For something a little newer (older than the AE112 though) but still cheap, an AE9x Seca or even an AE95 Wagon. They can be fitted with some bells & whistles rather easily should you desire them (power windows etc) & fit your requirements as well. With the exception of the timing belt, but as ke70dave mentioned, a belt instead of a chain is nothing major or complicated.
  16. carbonboy
    Minor update: Finally tracked down a persistent oil leak, I was thinking sump, but with the assistance of Bway & an ex-Toyota mechanic, we tracked it down to the front crankshaft oil seal. :( It's fair to say that it was a shipload of work for a $6.40 part, but so far, no drips. (except the one behind the wheel..*badoom tish*)
  17. carbonboy
    Driving in the wet would be very "interesting" for you. :blinks:
  18. carbonboy
    Not quite up & running to full capacity just yet, as in, I'm not back competing in VMC events yet. Skipped Rounds 3 & 4 due to personal-life reasons & lacking time/efficiency. Hopefully back in Round 5. First fuel economy figures since getting BT running again are in, they are: 397.2kms traveled, 43.14L of fuel used. Works out to 9.21km/L or 10.86L/100km. Have done some more tweaking as well, was scared as $h1t of doing so, considering what happened last time I fiddled..... Needless to say the jets have been left the hell alone for now! :yes: The image below made things so much easier in regards to knowing what to change to make the air:fuel ratio leaner at different throttle positions. My idle was about 15.0:1, adjusted the pilot screws half a turn & it's now 18.0:1, half-throttle was 11.5:1, adjusted the needle heights down 1.0mm by changing the washers (these are standard needles I think & they don't have clips/positions for them, just washers) & it's now 14.0:1. Being able to log the A/F data after making changes (only change ONE thing at a time!!!) & compare it to the previous log means I can spend more time watching the road & less time watching the gauge. The bad news is that no matter the speed I'm travelling or gear I'm in, the tiny bit of throttle you use to maintain a steady speed is showing as rich as 10.8:1. Although through the changes I've made, the throttle range where that happens has gotten smaller. W.O.T is almost as bad, showing 11.2:1, going by the above picture, I have to change the jets. Which is exactly what I'm afraid of, I do have smaller Main jets but Pilot jets...no. The pilot screws are almost at the limit of their adjustment & the needles have 0.48mm washers currently, I can remove those & see how things go. I've also advanced the ignition timing 3 degrees when cranking, I've found with the slightly chilly mornings we're having down here in Convictoria this time of year, that has made starting SO much easier. Yes, all these things are a major downside of ditching the EFI, but, *meh*, I'm one of those people who needs to learn the hard way. :) Still need to get BT on a dyno.
  19. carbonboy
    The plugs have been great & haven't given me any problems, they are a firm push-fit to get them in & have resisted a few backfires. I checked them each time & they were still rock solid. I'd thought about making a brace to hold them down, don't think they need it. The biggest headache with taking a 4A-G from EFI to carburetors is ignition, going with the MSD allows you to use the standard distributor & set the timing however you want to, BUT you cannot use the standard 4A-GE ignition coil with the MSD due to the igniter module that is mounted/wired to it. A 4A-C ignition coil works here. :yes: Running a crank angle sensor & COP (coil on plug) setup crossed my mind, ditched the idea due to the extra expense mainly. Visually it would make for a neater setup, performance-wise I have no idea. If you go the 20v route, I'd recommend keeping the EFI, they're a well made/tuned engine from the factory & in a KE20, would more than suffice in standard form. And that's enough of my opinion. :P
  20. carbonboy
    While you're on the TTT site, get yourself a set of their injector port plugs, I run them in Blue Thing, no dramas with them so far. There's also a bit of ignition info re; carb 4AG in my rides thread, could save you some headaches if you go down that path.
  21. carbonboy
    Thanks mate, on one hand it's been a PITA, on the other it's been a helpful learning experience. Hoorah for learning! Speaking of running, no more Subaru-burble after getting the carbs in sync-ish but the throttle response is nice. Back to daily-driver duties at last.
  22. carbonboy
    One month later.....she works again. So happy right now, may have teared up a little during the test drive.
  23. carbonboy
    It moved for the first time in..... ... ...actually, I'm better off not thinking about that. Had to have a giggle while doing the hard work, hopefully some plans eventuate & another home is found. Maybe watch this space. ;)
  24. carbonboy
    For the seventh time in four days, suffice to say I'm getting plenty of practice. Well, buggered o-rings on the fuel bowl inlets sure won't help matters much. Hoping that cleaning the filters out & replacing the o-rings will solve the dramas.
  25. carbonboy
    I should have just left the ʞ©$ɟing thing alone... Swapped the main jets from 185 to 160, hooked everything back up, after a bit of farting around she started & would idle, but would idle rich as hell (like 10.0:1 rich) & the fuel pressure always read 0 despite any & all adjustment. Not only this, but would rev to about 4,500rpm, then would lean right out out & die. Figuring it was something I touched, I pulled the carbs back off, put the 185 jets back in & hooked them back up. Have 2psi of fuel pressure again, but the same symptoms. Fuel bowl floats operate/seal properly so I don't think I've done something to them. Attempted to get the carbs properly in sync today since it would at least idle for me, not only are they worse than when I started, BT's now blowing a metric shit-ton of smoke. Oil based smoke to boot.
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