cerby

you need, a gearbox $200/$300, a pedal box, gearbox crossmember, and a cable clutch setup which will need to be fitted to the firewall (ie drilling holes and shiz). Right that gets you from auto ke70 to manual ke70. Now assume you will want to go to a 4age at some stage. You need to get a t50 gearbox same price, ae71 pedal box $200, hydro clutch setup, ae71 crossmember and engine mounts, oh and a 4ac or 4age.

what are you doing for a clutch and gearbox just out of curiousity?

if its a bearing in the gearbox then it should be noisiest in overrun. This is when (for example) you are cruising along accelerating through a gear then just as you are about to change up some tard brakes in front of you and you get off the accelerator and let it engine brake. To behonest while I'm sure your bearings probably are noisy, but for one thing I doubt they would be noisy enough to hear them outside without you being all like holy shit theres a shreaking banshee in my engine bay from inside the cab. And secondly $1600.....ʞ©$ɟ that with bells on. Get a second hand gearbox. and if thats not right buy another. You should have 8 spares by the time you have spent $1600. (disclaimer: Paying for a mechanics labour is EXPENSIVE and $1600 for him to take the box out change the bearings and put it back in is actually pretty reasonable. EDIT: just noticed $1600 PLUS labour....on a car that is worth $2000/$3000 if your being charitable.....no I don't think so. Sell the car for like $1500 (it should sell easy at that price) then use that money and the $3000 your mechanic will want to buy something 15 years newer) Having said that there is a million things it could be and a noisy transmissin bearing would be my last guess. Maybe a clutch bearing? Mine gets a bit sticky sometimes and rattles and makes noises but it always comes right. Heres the check list: 1. check your brakes. pull the wheel off and make sure the pads are sitting in the right place, have some meat left on them (like 5mm) and that the rattle clips are in place. Check the brand of pads and if its bendix then try some other pads. Have a look at the disc (which should be brand spanking new if you just spent $550 on it) make sure it isn't lumpy on the contact surface. 2. check your bearings. do this while you have the wheel off to check the brakes. Do this by grabbing the disc and wiggling it. If the disc moves around without the steering arms moving then your bearings are stuffed. Keep an eye out for seaping or spraying grease or oily shite coming out of the hole in middle of the disc this shite equals not so good. 3. check your cv boots. Just on the engine bay side of the discs there should be a rubber boot with ribs on it. If its split and leaking grease this equals bad. 4. have a look at your steering ball joint if theres crap oozing out of it not good. if you can wiggle it around really easily thats less than great. (I'd bet important stuff that this has absolutely nothing to do with your problem though) 5. stick your head in the wheel arch and have a look round the whole area. Look for rub marks. on the engine bay wall, the top of the arch, round the spring seat, and the back of the arch near your door. It sounds like a lot of effort but the hardest thing is jacking it up and getting the wheel off. Try not to get under the car while its on the jack (read this as DON"T GET UNDER THE CAR WHEN ITS ONLY ON THE JACK!!) at least chuck the wheel under the door sill once its off so if the car does come off the jack it will sit on that. The reality is learning this sort of stuff will save you THOUSANDS and is a life skill. Once you are confident to do simple things like this to your car you have the confidence to have a go at something a bit harder. I started off doing an oil change on my ae82 and now I've built an ae71 from the ground up. And the fact is you have one of the best cars to learn on. Parts are cheap, the car is well designed and easy to work on, its a simple car. And its reached the age where it needs some TLC. Its going to cost too much to pay someone else to do it when you think of what the car is worth. If your going to spend a heap of money getting work done on it, then spend it on some basic tools, a repair manual and if your extremely new to cars, a short course on car maintenance at TAFE. That stuff will pay itself off really quick (especially with what these mechanics want to charge you). Anyway rant over. If you eventually decide to pay to get the work done, at least make sure you go in and say I want you to change the wheel bearings, try another brand of pad, machine the disc surface (if its not brand new), and then see how it goes. Maybe also get them to change or retension your alternator/ac belt and check for any vaccuum leaks. This is cheap stuff to do ($100 bearings maybe, $60 or $70 pads, $100 machining). These are the things I would think are the cause and they are a hell of a lot cheaper and easier than taking out the engine to replace a bearing which may or may not be stuffed. Oh and one more thing if you are cruising at 40 and the wheel is squeaking how does the clutch effect it? Like does it only squeak with the clutch to the floor or in gear or both? Does the timing of the squeaking follow your engine revs or your road speed?

To be brutally honest I think you would be balls out of pants retarded to buy an auto ke70. And if that left you confused what i mean is you would be better off using you money as toilet paper. Its got the wrong motor, the wrong gearbox, the wrong clutch set up from the wrong century, the wrong interior and doubtlessly a million other things that are wrong. There are two situations in which you would be slightly less than retarded to buy it. 1. Its $50/free, drives and is registered. Drive it around till you find a manual ae71 of a similar colour. Steal the manual ae71. Park your shitheap in the same spot and hope that nobody notices. 2. You just wrapped your manual ae71 round a tree and the auto ke70 is in showroom condition, registered.......and free. You take all the wrong things out of the auto (and by this I mean everything except panels and seats and maybe steering wheel) and have a bonfire, then put all the ae71 stuff in.....get half way through, discover you need to actual fabricate stuff to get it work, borrow mums excel and leave both corollas to rot in the backyard till someone buys all the usefull parts and you send the rest to the scrap metal guys :P Seriously though with the way manual conversion parts and 4a conversion parts are going these days the parts needed to put in a 4age (not including the engine) will cost more than the car originally cost. AND getting the ke70 swapped to manual and a hyraulic clutch setup installed would be at least twice as much work as a 4age conversion into an ae71. Find a manual ae71. It will have rust in the rear gaurds. Now go to the wreckers and find an auto ke70 that someone dumped cos nobody was stupid enough to buy it and give the wrecker $30 for both front guards. Now give a panel beater a couple of hundred to weld in the arches out of the front guards to replace the rusty ones. You are now $800-$1000 ahead. I will except paypal, cash or bank deposit for my services :P

yeah do wheel bearings. Try putting some anti squeal goo all round the pads. Did you change the pads when you spent that ridiculous amount of money on the brakes? I found when I used bendix ultimate on my old ae92 they squealed all the time, so try changing the pads. to be honest if its not the pads type, or the pads moving or the rattle clips missing out of the caliper or a wheel bearing or maybe the caliper not releasing then its going to be something in the engine bay! What did the mechanic do for that $550? I would strongly suggest you talk to people on here before letting you mechanic spend more than the car is worth replacing shit that ain't broke :P In fact I would go so far as to suggest that you will probably find someone on here who is local to you and will help you out for a fraction of the price :P

Spotted a purple flat front ke70 with chrome bars in glenorchy yesterday!! Very clean!! What is with all these neat ke's coming out of the woodwork??

step one. Stop dealing with autobarn! I mean seriously who goes to autobarn and actually expects them to have a clue wtf! If your buying a clutch and flywheel go to a clutch place if your buying seat covers or stickers or anodized anything go to autobarn. Try ABS or something similar. The good thing about this is when they tell you something it might possible have the tiniest piece of truth to it lol.

Hey are you still after one? I've got one I might let go for the right price.

What??? Normally its the other way around, you guys get the strict gay rules and we get to do whatever we like!! I can tell everyone FOR A FACT that its 25mm total increase front or rear here in tas. And that is taken from a document called the National Code of Practice, which is what transport Tas uses. And the numbers have been confirmed by a local engineer who is the main go to guy for engineering in southern tas as well as competing in Targa and scrutineering for the tas drift series. Obviously as usual for aus governing bodies they have all developed their own standards and called them THE NATIONAL STANDARD and locked all the different types in a room filled with industrial fans, cocaine and monkeys, then grabbed whatever pages they can and gone home with them hahah.

National code of practice says you can increase track by 25mm MAX. So I'd assume thats nation wide. The track is measured from the centre of the tread on each tire. Problem with this is on a completely standard ke70 (for example) the wheels are +32ish offset. So if you change to some 15x7 +8 or so (Nothing wild at all just some shitty old challengers) you are already over your track limit and your car cannot be engineered or roadworthy!! This is extremely gay if your in the same situation as me where you have big brakes and have to run the larger wheels but can't run really high positive offset due to coilovers! I'm currently trying to find a lower control arm thats shorter than standard to see if i can fool the system (or a really long control arm I can sneaky fab into a solution :P )

Hey hey hey!! Does anyone have any st141 or rt141 control arms? I am desperate to get a pair as I think they are the solution for my engineering problem!! Even if its just renting them for a month or so! Or if anyone knows of a wrecker with any would be awesome too!

^^^ this is what I want to run! hahaha I'll chase up about the sigma arms then

sigma arms are WAY longer than ke70 ones, thats why they give like neg 5 camber. the track is measured from the centre of the wheel or tire same thing, I assume your mates car was not more than 25mm more than standard, tread being inside the arch is another issue entirely

I will try that first, at the moment I don't have a stock control arm either. The track measurement is made from the centre of the tire on each side, so unfortunately that won't change it. The annoying thing is I remember seeing a post on a forum somewhere basically listing the lengths of all the different control arms but I'm stuffed if i can find it. So I have a lead on a stock arm but I would really like to just find the shortest arm possible and go with that and save the stuffing around.

Yeah its actually insane, I didn't even think that wheel offset would effect it originally. I've actually just taken those pics I'll have them up in a sec. These aren't my 15s though cos they are away getting reconditioned, I had to remove the calipers so I could fit these 13s. They have a similar offset though

I don't need less camber that isn't the problem, and I can adjust some out on the strut top anyway. Plus I need to get the ride height change engineered as well. I agree changing the control arms is the last thing i want to do. However My other option is changing wheels, as I already said anything with high enough offset will hit the coilovers or the front of the rx7 calipers, so now I'm finding these wheels and changing my struts and my brakes to make it all work. Oh and now that I'm back to stock brakes I have to change the master cylinder cos stock ke70 brakes (which I don't have anyway so I'd have to find some and struts to run them on) are to tiny to work with a pajero 15/16" master cylinder. Once i get to that point I might as well get standard rear springs and standard seats and not even bother with getting the car engineered, just go to the transport inspection and tell them its stock. Then i have the choice of driving a stock ae71 with fwd rims on it YAY or rebuilding the entire car back to what it is now and then getting defected again. And I can tell you I would rather be changing control arms everytime i go for an inspection than changing the entire acr to stock and back LOL So yes its the last thing I want to and I understand its less than ideal to do it then change it back afterwards, however if I want to get the wheels and the brakes and the suspension mod plated I am going to have to do it. Also I really think I had better take a picture, this track increase doesn't stick out AT ALL. Like its actually got me confused cos the wheels are WAY inside the gaurds! Also I'm from TAS where we only have one cop who defects people. Seriously I drove the car as it is for 2 years (and half the time it was multi coloured with rust holes before it got painted and never had a problem) and got pulled over and never had any problems but this one motor cycle cop defects everyone he pulls up, he got my flat mate and another of my mates TWICE, the second time he defected a standard ve commodore for being too low cos it was full of people!! The engineer knows the cops badge number off by heart cos every single defected car he gets is from this cop. In fact when I was in there the other day he had the most immaculate mustang in there, nothing wild about it or anything just really neat and stock looking and the engineer told me the same cop defected him and he is going through the same process as me! Anyway this is all beside the point, trust me I have looked for other options and this is the easiest, cheapest and in fact the exact way my engineer said would be the best way to do it! I will take a pic for all the doubters, seriously as soon as you see it you will start telling me I have measured wrong or the stock measurement I hae must be wrong hahah. Oh and the rims are 15x7 oldschool globe challengers with an offset of I think +8 before anyone starts going on about wanting to run ricer rims. The difference between the stock 32+ offset rims and +8 offset rims is enough to put you over the track increase limit so its not like I'm trying to do anything crazy here in fact I am prepared to bet that half the people on here are running lower offset rims than me!! So does anyone actually know where I can get a shorter control arm from?

Hey everyone. So heres the deal, I'm getting my ae71 engineered and the limit for track increase is 25mm. I am WAY over that due to close to zero offset wheels, 5mm spacers (which I forgot to take out) and xt130 corona arms (which by my maths should give me 20mm extra track). So in order to pass i have to loose some track, obviously spacers go, thats 10mm, then I change my control arms back to stock (thats 30mm all up) Now problem is I still need to loose another 10 to 15mm more!!! I can't change my wheels cos a) big brakes b) I don't have money to spend on high positive off set wheels c) those high positive offset wheels would probably hit my coilovers anyway. d)I want the larger rim size to be modplated so I can tell the whoppers to go f@$k themselves when they complain hahah. So this leaves me with one more option, get shorter than standard control arms. Now I swear I remember hearing about a set which would fit an ae71 that were 10mm shorter than standard, in fact I'm sure I remember seeing a little list of the arms written up somewhere. So what I am asking is, Does anyone know what arms fit an ae71 and are shorter than standard? Note: yes I know it will give me positive camber and look spastic. As soon as the car is engineered and inspected they will go back to xt130 arms, unfortunately seemingly just changing rims is enough to go over the limit and transport seem to feel they make the roads safer by making cars more dangerous :P Anyway anyone who can give me a definite answer will earn massive E-Kharma. Cheers Mark

on my daily I have broken a window, replaced it using two layers of cardboard, duct tape and spray paint and then bought 3 wheels and tires for $90. On the one that hasn't been driven in 6 months and isn't allowed on the road anyway, I have bought new wheel nuts, reconditioned the wheels, bought a cheap oil filter relocation kit which would work with my existing cooler for $175, and I've now gone on to buy a thermostat for it ($105) and then 4 adaptors and hose ends so I can fit the thermostat ($120). Currentlylooking at the $400 thermostat and cooler included kits and kicking myself lol. Removed the entire fuel system and started converting the lift pump to intank. Currently looking for a TRD 2 way LSD, and a set of either Suzuki GTI seats or not gay coloured WRX seats!!

just chipping in on the steering arm debate. ke70 struts 100% do not fit ae86 steering arms and vice versa.

yeah i said that. don't you worry i actually passed thermodynamics lol the 4x4 guys i'm talking about are running plenty of power and using all of it. Took my flatmates 4x4 to the engineer the other day and we took the 37s off and put nice legal 30s on and the damn thing was frying all four wheels off the lights and it was not even really on purpose hahaha the annoying thing is he gets off his defect for the modified engine cos 4.2 L turbos were a factory option, never mind they only produced one quarter of the power this motor is making. My 4ac to 4ag swap however holy crap that sort of madness needs a full engineering!!! 72kw atw makes it a public menace hahah, never mind the 300kw at all FOUR wheel 4x4!!! it takes a fair bit of power to spin 4 x 37 inch mudders fast enough to get them to work properly :P edit: i should mention that the turbo is running a bloody massive intercooler!! However a few of the other guys that drive the same tracks don't run them on their superchargers and they don't over heat

turbocharger is driven by HOT exhaust gases, supercharger isn't. Also most people running superchargers don't seem to run anywhere near the boost that people with turbochargers do. I know a lot of people with supercharger 4x4's and they don't run any intercooler! They keep telling me to just whack my gze in and forget about the intercooler but i don't know. They do proper offroading too so the cars spend a fair bit of time stationary on the limiter and covered in mud lol and they don't seem to have problems, but the way I see it half the fun of having forced induction is having people go holy crap theres an intercooler on that car!!!

if the oil cooler was on the motor originally i'd keep it. If its anything like the ae92 setup it has a pressure valve in it, so the oil doesn't run through the cooler until you hit high enough oil pressure to open that valve. So basically you can't hurt the motor by putting the cooler on. If its a wide open all the time setup then thats a bit different cos it will mean your oil will take longer to come up to temp, or it might not reach proper temp at all. The best option is to use a thermo static sandwich plate. So it only opens and lets the oil flow when it reaches a high temp. this will protect your motor and work well. Also i'd really suggest running a oil temp guage for a bit to see what the temps do. But yeah if it was on it in the donor car, put it in the ke70 with the motor

ah bugger i can see the rush then. if you can get the strut and steering arm of the ae86 as well then definitely do that. otherwise I have heard that t18 struts will work but you would probably need the steering arm as well.

don't think so. I put ae86 struts with brakes and all into my ae71. the only other part i needed was an ae86 steering arm. I have to ask though why do you want to swap them? Its not really much of an upgrade unless you going to the JDM calipers which take a vented rotor. You would probably see more of an improvement from spending the money on new dot4/5 fluid and some good pads. The bonus of of using the ae86 struts is you can get decent shocks to suit them unlike the ae71 struts. And there is a whole bunch of tried and tested brake upgrades for them also

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/s...ead.php?t=11724