ausca62

Hi Guys I have an Autogage tacho by Auto Meter But I have lost the wireing diagram. It has 4 main wires, red,black, green & white. 2 small orange & 2 small brown wires. and 2 black wires together with a plug on the end. I would assume the latter to be the shift light but could be wrong. Thanks for any help. Paul.

Hi mate, I will be setting the shift light to 7300 and want to limit the revs to 7500. What car are you running the 2tg in? and how mutch did you pay for the tune? Cheers Paul.

One thing I forgot. Springs, $90. Flat bar, $4. Total $94. Budget Racer................... ONE SET OF BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY DOUBLE VALVE SPRINGS TO SUIT THE TOYOTA 2T, 3T, 18R, 2TG, 3TGTEU & 18RG ENGINE'S. THESE VALVE SPRINGS ARE A MUST WHEN BUILDING A HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE OR EVEN SOME INSURANCE ON A STANDARD BUILD. These springs are manufactured to a strict quality standard to ensure that you get the best for your dollar. These springs come to you already scragged to save you time (scragging is a process where the spring is compressed to solid before checking loads and our springs are scragged individually to ensure each spring is to solid height before checking, unlike most that are scragged to height somewhere close to solid.) The spring wire is also double eddy current tested to a depth of 40 microns and any wire detected with flaws is sprayed, the coiling machine picks this up and rejects these sections. These springs have also been rattled tested on a specially designed machine which we can put a cam lobe into and run a complete set up (lifter, spring, retainers, push rod, rocker and valve) and check for harmonics. Add to this the fact that these springs are also designed on SRAMA, a computer program from the Institute of Spring Technologies, which gives us all stress and pound loadings from installed height to coil bind. All our springs are chrome silicon

It all worked well and would not be hard to make something similar to suit different motors. Hope this help somebody and if not it will give some people ideas. Now I can rev the ring out of it and make it go like it was supposed too Cheers Paul.

Now its time to have a crack at the real motor. Remove rocker cover etc. Remove chain tensioner Before removing cam gears take note of cam timing. Because I'm getting old i find it easy to take a quick photo of things before I pull them apart so if I'm not sure I can go back and check. Stuff a rag down between the timing chain just in case you drop a washer or one of the dowls. Then remove the cams. Remove the cam followers but be careful to keep them in order and don't loose the shims. This is where I had my only problem. Working on a motor on a stand is not the same as a motor in a car. I had to modify the tool slightly as it did not clear the strut towers Away we go. BTW. (I rapt tape around the pipe to protect the cam bearings)

Thanks Luke, Hope you didn't get washed away in the floods. Cheers Paul.

Time for an update During the engine rebuild, I couldn't find any reasonably priced double valve springs. This led me to the decision to fit the standard ones and limit my revs till i could find and fit new ones. Over Christmas I found them on Ebay and purchased a set. Now the delemer........... how to fit them without removing the head. I decided to experiment with a spare head and spare motor that I had lying around. The final product worked well so I thought I would share my findings in case someone else is in the same situation or you want to replace your valve guide seals. First I needed something that would fit over the valve spring but still fit into the head recess. I used a whole saw and cut it to suit. Next I continued by working out a way of compressing the spring using leverage. I made a pivot using a piece of pipe that locates under the opposite side cam saddle Then it was just a matter of making up a lever to put downward pressure on the spring. Then the first trial, All worked well. Now to keep the valve shut so it doesn't fall into the combustion chamber when the retainer is removed. Get an old spark plug and remove the guts by grinding the lip off. Then weld a fitting to it And make up a tool as shown in the next pic. It has an airline fitting on the end to allow it to be connected to your compressor. And then you screw it into the spark plug hole in your cylinder head. Connect your airline and the air pressure from your compressor, (approx 120 psi) acting on the bottom of the valve keep the valve shut. As an added safe guard, put your piston at TDC but remember to stick the car in top gear with the handbrake on or the pressure will turn the motor over. More Soon................

Na mate, been too flat out at work. I am hopeing to get some time over Christmas. I'm going to get onto the flares next week then I can put some paint on it. Have changed the dash and wiring since the last post but thats about it. And I got me a trick number plate for the back

Hi mate, looks like a sweet ride to start with. I think you can't go past a 2TG. Easy conversion, no major changes, (fuel system,computer etc) and period correct. Good luck with whatever you decide. Cheers Paul.

No worries mate. I made pretty sure the plating I did on the floor was adequate. It also holds the mount for the sway bar link. Most of the load is lateral anyway. Cheers Paul.

thanks Dave..................... The reason for the hole is to let you get a good weld on the allthread. The rose joint is female. the adjustment is made by screwing the joint on or off and then do up the locknut. The threaded bar is welded to the gal pipe, through the hole, and the nut is also welded to the pipe as a backup. Most of the strength is in the weld in the hole. Hope this clears it up for you Cheers Paul

Not a problem mate. It has 5 X 10mm umbraco bolts and 5mm steel plate on the inside. You could lift a car with 3 of these bolts. Cheers Paul.

Hi guys, time for an update. not much has been happening lately but I decided to do somthing about the wondering rear axel. As those of you that race would know. leaf spring rear ends tend to wonder from side to side under hard cornering. This is made so much worse with a set of sticky race tyres. This makes the car very unpredictable and can snap from understeer to oversteer in an instant. To help overcome this I have made a BUDGET panhard rod. All you need is 1 a brain 2 a pair of 16mm rose joints. $15 ea. 3 a length of 16mm allthread 4 1 mt 21mm gal pipe $6.00 4 8 16mm nuts 5 some scraps of 5mm plate 6 100mm of 50X75X6mm angle 7 an arc welder and drill All up about $50 and 4 hr time. As you will see in the first pic, I used a transmission suport bracket to save time but this is only because I was being lazy. You will also notice the brackets for the adjustable sway bar but that is for another day. Then I made a plate to attach the rod to the bracket And bolted it on This was all bolted securely to the boot floor with a plate inside the boot. That is the boby mount side done. Now time for the axel end. With this I diden't want to weld to the asel housing because I am in the process of building a nissan R31 diff conversion, and this way I can change the diff without making new mounts. With the angle iron, Icut it to fit onto the lowering block. Drilled two holes for the U bolts and for the rose joint mounting bolt. Then positioned it on the lowering block. And welded it on. Then bolted it into position. Now to make the rod. Its just a matter of welding the allthread to your gal pipe. By drilling a hole in the pipe you can get a good weld on the thread. Now fit and adjust your rod. Thats the basics, If anyone wants any more details just yell out. I will show the adjustable swaybar setup when i finnish it. Cheers all.

thanks Dave 4 your input. Sounds ezy but from experience things that sound ezy usually arnt. I have a hillclimb at Haunted hills this Sunday so wont have time 2 get into it this weekend, but will have a crack next. Cheers man. Paul

Hi all. Its been a while but its time to get back into the old girl again. I have been flat out working on a new movie set, (called THE CUP) but now filming has finneshed so I have time. I need help again. This time more info than help. I need to know how to do fiberglass. I have some molds for flares because my new wheels are wider. I have never dicked around with fiberglass. Maybe someone might know a web site that explains the steps for a beginner????? Thanks Guys. Paul.

SOLD

Sick of w8n for you Llastright (looser) If you are not interested then don't bulls**t on like you are. Car is no longer for sale. :abuse:

Why would you buy a Holden or Ford.when you could have a BMW?.......................Well maybe a Holden but deffinetly not a ford. Very reliable and quick.

OK mate, let me know when you have put the money in. Cheers Paul.

Mate whats the go??? Do you want the car or not?

Hi mate, yes it runs and drives but it has been out of rego for about 2 years so has not been driven much for that time. No I don't have the plates but you can get a permit to drive it home. Depends where you live i could trailer it to your house for a fee. Cheers Paul

Bloody oath!..........................$75. on eBay, brand new..........................Ya gotta love eBay :wink:

Another part of the, "wife has cracked the shits because we have too many cars" sale Holden Commodore VH SL/E 4.2L 253ci V8 (blue motor) 4brl Carby, Extractors & Sports Exhaust King Springs, Auto Trans. CD player, Sports steering wheel Electronic ignition Tow Bar. Power steer Air con (not working) Would make a good restorer as it is the top of the line in its day and they are getting hard to find these days. It has very little rust. The motor is good. (doesent use oil and has excelent oil pressure) but could do with a set of lifters as they are getting a bit noisy. The auto is good and so for the diff and brakes If you are not into resto's it would make a great skid car!! $500. Firm. don't come to me with some bullshit offer. Ring Paul on 0427852179

BMW 525i Rare 5 Speed E34. 1988 model Part of the, "wife has cracked the shits because we have too many cars" sale 2.5lt. 6 cylinder 5 speed. Air con. Power Steering 10 stack CD/casset New Windscreen Alloy Wheels Always serviced by BMW Berwick. 227200 klm Reg till July 2010 $3500 ONO. Contact Paul on 0427852179

Ha Ha: .................. I mentioned to her about a broken throttle, and her reply was. "You know where you can stick your broken throttle cable"!!!!! :wink: