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corollaart

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Posts posted by corollaart

  1. Brilliant job Ryan love it!!!!

    One question are these things common over there?

    Like are they at the wreakers or have they all been crushed,it seems that all the hot rod shows from the us you can find just about any model

    muscle car you that takes your fance.

    Here in au most have now been crushed ,well the wreakers here see no value in them.

    There still hiding in sheds and now and then a good one turns up usually  way over priced and wanting a lot of work.

    Nice work rob

  2. Great work Craig ,i thought i seen this for sale?on some site .

     

    Removing the front seat cross member is good idea ,i had trouble getting the front seats low enough and back .

     

    Do you compensate as far as strength goes.

     

    Or do the rhs seat mount make up for this ?

     

    Keep up the good work rob

  3. Well if you still need to no ,the charge light wire is the yellow/white at alternator end.

     

    The sence pin to alt positive (the big red one).S

     

    The L pin to original charge light wire (yellow-white)

     

    The i PIN TO 12V SWITCHED.

     

    Just a note on the main alt wire to battery replace it with some thing bigger than the original ,mine fryed the wire.

  4. Your right parrot,GEM was reconditioning out fit back in the day.

     

    I would at least pull the motor out and disassemble it to see how good or bad it is.

     

    If it has stuffed crank or cylinders scrored it maybe cheaper to start with a better engine.

     

    I'm sure some one on here would have a good rebuilder engine.

     

    The auto will bolt to manual motor you have to remove the clutch and fly wheel and spigot bearing in the end of the crank

     

    and fit the auto drive plate.

     

    I think you will find that the auto transmission is a holden trimatic ,which toyota adapted to fit the 4k motors,so parts for that should be dime a dozen.

     

    rob

  5. Well may i say that you must be the first bloke i no that has a commodore that doesnt leak from the rear main (if its a early model).

     

    The 4x4 we will need more info like toyota nissan,isuzu.

     

    Balanceing would not be the cause of rear main leak,more to do with incorrect fitment old age or rodeo (speaking from experience in rodeos no cure )

     

    rob

  6. I would like to find some plug wires with a 90 degree plug to the distributor side.

     

    The engine is a blue top with factory cover, between cam covers.

     

    Would there be any compatible leads out there.

     

    The only ones i can find all have straight ends.

     

    The cheap ebay ones any good or rubbish?

     

    http://www.ebay.com....l8AAOSwvg9XYg-i

     

    The reason for this is with scorcher distributor the straight ends are streched to fit the distributor,the 90 degree ends would fix this problem and look better.

     

    rob

  7. Well i will start

    1: there is 2 different size fly wheels ,so 2 different size clutches (plates) the centres are the same 200mm or 212mm https://www.google.c...ZlSW9a6dLuJx3M: you will have to convert to hydraulic clutch

     

    3 Thats BS contact ke converstions on here he has mounts to bolt in to ke55 cross member .

     

    If its a late model t50 gearbox which i would expect it would be the shifter will about 17-20 mm back from the orginal shift hole in a 55 ( easy fix).

     

    https://www.google.c...7GGEm_1UwLlUFM:

     

    2 i would check this first !!

     

    I sure others will chime in with the rest

  8. I will now ,as ive got most of left hand wiring loom apart BLZBUB.

     

    So i tap into the factory switch on the plug that comes out of the steering colunm?

     

    Then the factory head light relay becomes redundant.

     

    The head lights are then a stand alone system ,only using the factory switch?

     

    rob

  9. Thanks banjo and BLZBUB.

     

    I will have look for some wiring diagrams on here for head lights ,just don't like the magic smoke to get out!

     

    Blzbub i think will just start again ,as the wreakers here only keep bogan dores.

     

    Cold yes peddicting snow tonite,some people get excited about ,I'm not one of them.

     

    Thanks Rob

  10. Up to my ass in wiring s@it atm.(4agc to ke55)

     

    Replacing the fuseable link because it become very hot the other day ,my thoughts are that the 4a alternaters

     

    have a lot more out put than the standard 4k alts.

     

    So can i use one of theses www.ebay.com.au/itm/Marine-80-Amp-Contactor-Circuit-Breaker-for-Anchor-Windlass-Five-Oceans-Fre-/181938565704?hash=item2a5c623248:g:MpsAAOSwbdpW

     

    Or maybe one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290821587847?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    Between alt + and battery +

     

    I think the stock ND alternator is around 70 amps ,so 80 would cover this ??

     

    Using new heavy wiring also 140 amp rated.

     

    I have a spare harness that i have from one of the parts cars ,the horn and head light wiring are interesting to say the least wtf!!

     

    There is no fuse for head lights?? well not that i can find,seems get power from the fuseable link then doubles back and picks up the

     

    horn which has a inline fuse in engine bay.

     

    Then goes in left hand fire wall to power fuse box and relays.

     

    Geez i hate wiring!!!

  11. Thanks Dave and Keith

     

    The problem started years ago with battery in the boot (because race car )the old 4k would struggle to start .

     

    So i tried sam q sugestion of relay and it worked .

     

    Having moved on to 4a thought it would be all the same no real change in the wiring to the starter.

     

    So today i grabed a big ass truck battery from work and it seems to have solved the problem it turns over very well.

     

    So thats one off the list just another 20 or so to go!!!!!

     

    thanks rob

  12. Hi Lads

     

    Starter is wired as per sam q suggested http://www.sq-engineering.com/index.php/tech-articles/relay-upgrade-for-a-starter-motor

     

    The problem is that it has 13.8 volts on terminal 30 ignition on.when you hit start it drops to 3.9 volts.

     

    So i tryed the solenoid wire same thing .

     

    From what i under stand is that it will need 12 volts at solenoid to work ??

     

    Next i hooked battery from my ute on it same result.

     

    I did bench test the starter seemed to do every thing right,

     

    I may need to pull it out and check voltage drop when its loaded up ??

     

    Any sugestions as I'm out of tricks!!!Banjo. :doh:

     

    Rob

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