MaximusPsychosis

Yeah, its basically mounted in, I was going to stuff the ecu under/near the kick panel, closer to the hole. but we'll see how that turns out. 1st thing before that is to strip down the 101 loom and splice it in to the 82 loom. as for speedo, I think I can get a reed switch on the cluster, whether or not it pick up on the magnetic air clutch used for the speedo, I'm not to sure. Whats really throwing me off this is the amount of work i need for the rest of the car, need to repair the seats, new belts, struts.. also my tools just seems to of exploded and went everywhere/ need to buy a new set.. I have AE101R sedan rear set, I had a good look at the setup, I can tell its not a bolt-in jobie, but I'm sure its not to hard to make something up with tube stock, but i'll take the both off and run it by a fab/engineering shop and see if that can do something to ADR standards, its already up for engineering signoff with the new engine in it, if it was the twinkie setup i'd could get away with just an engine swap'n'sign off, what a little more? I'm sure I cannot use the trailing arm and A frames off an ae92, I have one here, but it drum too. on that note, anyone wanna have some fun with grinders and a 101 chassis? I'll throw some more pictures up later, tonight/tomorrow/some day

Should this not go here? https://www.rollaclub.com/board/forum/11-for-sale-car-parts/

Yeah, I was. I have a wrecked ae101 and getting its wiring setup for transplant. I'm going to try and keep the cluster as much as the old ae82 as possible, speedo, tacho,will have to be swapped, the fuel tank/sender could remain the same, I think just have to go external pump. the engine mount brackets have to be changed off the old 4A motor to fit on the 7A. Unless I do major body work to get the AE101's mounts to fit in. since the 101 has a 2 piece cross-member that holds the sway-bar and the 82 has a basically bar on 4 body mounts. There is no way it would fit without cutting parts and welding others. I will be swapping the brakes over from the 101 to the 82.

Well, after a depression stint/no care in life/burn the holidays.. ..something started to move: cannot work where that silver box fits :/ or even this stuff.. i'm one step closer

well I'm not looking hard enough then, most scrap yards around me have nothing from the AE82s.. I'm sure you needed an adapter to fit the disked hubs off the later models, or swap the caps off the hubs to make em fit.

They rarer then hens teeth, but you can find them. you need the master cylinder too, or attempt to re-balance the one you have. Now if I recall correctly, they are on the AE82s with the bluetop in them. and the large "Twincam" across the doors. you could get the ones off the AE101, but thats a complete headache and fabrication to get them to fit.. Keep an eye on the trading sites, ebay, gumtree, etc..

I love sitting back and reading over these heads you've done OST, I have learned a lot too, Thank you for sharing! on that note, when I get my 4A-C head back from the shop (getting the clean and straightening) I might just try to chew on the old cracked head to see what damage I can do. unless you want to look at/destroy it for educational purposes? ..then I'll get back to my 7A project.

Yeah, I am going to get the mounts completely swapped over, then attempt to get it in the car.. so far the daily cracked a head, couldnt handle 430K-KM on the clock.. so Ive been running around trying to get that back on the road. But yeah, looks like it can just mount right up no issue, maybe a AE92 engine mount can take the spot of the 4AC mount with the 3 pins/studs and still sit in the chassis mount point

So, the old 82 mount fits But I think this wont pass with the engineers + mechanic .. So the front mount (or drivers side) went from: To So i need to do a little bit o hacking or something to make it fit..

So, it begins...

you're right, its not a F1 engine with the straight runners. I just had a random shower thought I wanted to bounce, no need to change the tried and true that toyota setup for this engine. I could spend money chasing small numbers, or just use it the way it was intended. I will over time attempt to make it breath better and brace up the weak spots, but that could take it down the path of rebuilding hell.

I guess it would run like a dirty dog, the piston drawing the air would not take enough to suck all the air mixed with fuel out of the runners. I was thinking along the lines of setting the injectors to spray into the air inside the plenum to keep the mixture there, then the pistons draw the mixed air as needed. Instead of double shooting the fuel with one of the shots basically cooling the intake valves. Maybe toyota thought this as going to be an issue and downsized the injectors to compensate with the extra fuel, EG at idle, each squirt is 14cc so the total intake of mix is 28cc of fuel and 372cc of air (or how much idle air intake is, probably a lot less) just one shot is going to sit there till the next intake.. now I'm done working on a ford, I have a few cold weekends to get the AE82 preped for the 7A.

but I like them steaming piles of crap! low pressure, always open single injector! needs a completely different type of ecu.. could always go a vacuum controlled jetronic, the old type that uses the vacuum and throttle position to determine the amount of fuel to spray. Yeah! Like i said, not going nuts on this 7A for some time, I may go GE head on it with a turbo one day, but thats years away. I think going from a 2A-LC at 36HP with 3 running pistons and the other with no rings, to a 120'ish HP 7A-FE would do me good enough for a while. i just gotta get the wiring right

yeah don't worry about it, I wasn't jumping up and down saying you're wrong, there are some systems that require it, for that extra resolution for working out where the motor is in timing, the crank sensor is needed, especially when you are using multi-coil system on top. which makes me wonder why they are not using that to run sequential, but like you said, its cheaper to just pulse the 2 wires one after the other in time with the dizzy.. which begs the question, if I was to get the injectors in the plenum instead of the intake runners, so the wasted fuel is also fed to the mix and the piston draws it in for intake, will the system have a fit due to the system seeing it go to rich? or will it be like I said before, its just wetting the runner on compression/fire stroke.. On that note, I was looking into what toyota ECU did do the sequential injection, it seems to be the ones with the turbo/chargers that had them. Then I came across the cute 4K-E ECU, so basic, didn't have 200+ sensors to contend with..

so the 7A dizzy doesn't use hall effect sensor? sorry, I'm used to the falcons sequential system, it uses a 7 tooth (+one missing IIRC) halls in the dizzy to determine where TDC is on the motor to start the injection cycle... ah well, cannot complain, not going all out with this thing as of yet.. the wast injection isn't really wasted, its just going to sit on the intake valve until it opens anyway and gets a 2nd shot of fuel, only problem I could see off this is the fuel forms into droplets and doesn't 100% burn or become wash off on the cylinder walls

I gotta ask, why is there only 2 injector fire wires off the ECU? does 2 injectors fire at the same time? isn't that just a waste of fuel?

well yeah it looks to be the best way to go, I thought I might look into the wiring for it anyway. The old cluster has the 2 screw points for the speed sensor, but they are coated over (the green coating) and the sensor is missing. I had the thought of getting a AE92 cluster and popping out the sensor to see if it fits. If not, I may have to hunt down a cluster from a twinkie.. unless I could just mount the guts of a AE102 cluster inside the old cluster.. I might call a few local'ish wreckers to see if they have a twinkie cluster.

I have never found a twinky dash (looked years ago), well one that wont clear out my bank. going by the yella book, the wire/pin for the speedo on the twinky cluster is #20, yet for the bog standard cluster its the door light.. :/ sooo yeah, getting even that to go in look like it requires the ecu'ed wiring, since every pin is different. I have the C50/52 strapped to the old 4A-C that the 7A is taking over. don't want no A141E.. if i can de'E it, maybe shove it next to the old AE80 and its 2A lol (needs a 4th gear).. So, need speedo outta twinky, and pin 20 to SPD on ECU.. tacho looks to be free off the ecu, only the black wire feeds back to it. Red/Yellow wire to engine check light, water temp spliced off white wire going to THW? the rest should be already there. anyway, plenty time to get it done, I'll definitely get some pics and a write up with this, maybe someone later will find a use for it.. if I don't get lazy over it..

Thank you friends! I'd love to just shove carby onto it to just not worry about the ecu, but it has the electrics, so ecu required. (unless I can shove an old 4AFC plenum right on the head) So going by what you said, the ECU doesn't need that info from the engine that the cluster uses? AKA the oil temp/pressure water temp, rpm, speed, etc? on that note, does the ECU push the same analogue data the old cluster uses? so basically instead of wires from the sensor to cluster, sensors go to the ecu then the old cluster. none the less, the wiring diagram should help a lot! thank you Hiro!

Hello children. So I went out on a little impulse buying and got myself a 7AFE, it has most of the engine bay electrics, but not the ECU/cluster side, I am assuming that I need the cluster, ECU and wiring to get things going. Since its going into a AE82, and that lacks any of this electronics, I believe I have to rewire the cluster with a AE101/112 cluster, so my question is, anyone got a wiring diagram and wire colour codes for a AE101/112? I also assume the speedo is electric controlled (ECU'ed and all that), not cable controlled too? so I cannot just slap on the ol'C52 to the backside of the engine, and run the ol' cable. Anywhozle see how things go

forgot to mention, I have replaced the carby, rebuilt and replaced the old, motor did the same thing on both, replaced the dizzy, still rough, negate the dizzy (no advancing when revving) rougher then 150 grit toilet paper.. replaced the gasket and remounted the flange/inlet manifold, last bugger who did it left 3 bolts loose. The gas filter sits on the intake manifold, just before the 1st piston, it is a little 2 or 3 vacuum plug (mine is 2, there is 3 out there, going by the manual) that runs inline of the vacuum to turn on the EGR valve on the air cleaner box, I have a small vacuum hose on both ends, the valve line is directly connected to the carby (it diesn't work anyway, only barely leaks exhaust into the airbox. as for the fuel solenoids, they are "power off=fuel off" odd that 2 sets of these do the same thing (2 different carbies) could be the switch for the lights, although I have noticed it with parkers on too.. well with the dash lights at least.. the only other thing I can think of is the brake booster lines, they look like the same from factory.. i'll check out the fan earthing tomorrow, got one of them new bute multi-meters that buzz at you when you cross probes! ...still there is no power out of their sockets when I disconnect the temp sensor, and I've replaced the solenoid 3 times now (old one, one from a wreck, and one $30 one from an auto's shop, none worked) I gotta find myself the old blade terminals to wire up power to test these items on their own.. On the other hand, I have another asian carby, looking a little newer, off I think a Y engine (the hilux motors). I think I could mate it up but the outer control valve is attached to the body of the carb? not sure of the condition of the rubbers, since its been sitting for some time, but meh.. or I could just do a complete deletion of the vacuum hoses on the old girl, then start rewire, ehh, re-hose even? the needed parts (wanna keep the regulatory bodies happy).. anywho, its tat tiem agn! /me runs

MMM-kay my friends! I have a few issues to resolve on my AE82... 1st'ly carby, its acting like a vacuum leak, but I've been over it many times, rechecked manifold bolts, carby bolts etc, nothing is pointing out the obvious, only the "Gas filter" (I plug that into the system, cylinder 1 goes lean, and doesn't fire, it takes what to get it to fire, just..) choke is erratic, goes high/low when ever it feels like it, despite the fact its hosed up to spec in the maintenance manual. When I disable it and its impossible to start cold.. (if I can throw a manual choker on there, or rig up the old one with meccano pieces, or fit a 2/3/4K carby on it). Also, the anti-dieseling valves are shot, no power to them, but the motor still runs.. Threw another carby on, jerky when idling down the road, or down hill, people think I'm bunny hopping the car down hill :/ I think them valves were shot too, car doesn't power them anyway.. Next thing is, Thermal fans, don't run, even when i pull the thermal switch plug, or the gas plug on the air con new relay, nope, cross relay points, nope, nothing, multi-meter on all possible connections (fan plugs, fuse plug, relay plug, etc..), dead.. fans are free, but I have yet to throw them onto their own power (direct connect, too lazy..) now tell me, other then battery to car body and the rest to the rest, is there a common earth... wait, these items are connected to the motor to work.. I wonder if the motor is earthed to the body :-? wait, car starts, so its not that... unless the starter motor uses another earth? And lastly, when the key is rightly off, and door open, the interior light is randomly dimming out a little, then coming back full brightness, nothing was touched in the mean time, nothing else was on.. do I need to rewire the old girl? Bah! throw me a 1C or 2C-T motor any day! for I have no Clue on how a diesel motor works... where are their butterflies and jets? anywho, time to run

ke70dave, yeah I try to drive like a granny, although I foot it when needed (some times to show off, the extra 300cc this motor had over the last one, really shows its power.. till the day of 4age..) I used to drive it when the auto almost drops a gear, but I was told "no no no! when you load the motor like that, it burns more fuel!" which I started to add another 500-rpm to stop it growling, and keep my passenger happy.. and highway.. and truckies.. um, trying to take a swing? sorry that its gone a little off-topic, it wasn't just me... I'm not trying to ignore you man, it just looks like to me that you just want to stick to the hydrogen stuff, which as I've said, I don't like.. look here for starters: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/4276846?series=19 also: you put more load on your car just to give a little back, thats thermal dynamics for you. This is why I, and others, take the piss out of it, and magnets.. As for the solar panel idea, why don't I make it 100% electric, and use the solar panels to charge the batteries? and hydrolysis in a jar? never liked it, and I have no way to store the brown gas...

Already a member of hypermilling club ecomodder.com, and I apply some of them techniques, although I have no idea how to kill this old motor quicker by leaning it up, and its not to legal to tape up all the edges and creases on the car (you know, duct tape looking like its holding the doors bonnet and boot: "you need to have the doors free to escape the car")... I got the seca because it was sort of "cheap (well, under $1000)," it had the reachback type hatch, so a little more streamline then the old hatch, it had a larger motor (4A over 2A), 4 speed auto (so at 80KM/h its doing 2K not 2.5-3K) and still had the old carby, so easier to lean out with (unlike EFI where you have to add a wideband sensor, alter the ECU, put smaller injectors in, etc etc..).. Never thought of bunging in a O2/air sensor in and using that only with a readout, i might have a closer look into doing this.. And yeah jono1986, its a daily, although the space is needed half the time, (corolla, you can move a household in a day), the other half is to get from A to B and back.. EvenG, nice little "Volkswagen 1-litre car", I could make this seca run the same, get the old 1970 1A motor, slap a Fisher&Paykel "SmartMotor" between the engine and gearbox(or maybe 2 of them electric motors on the 2 rear wheels...), boot full of batteries, 3 phase AC controller and Bobs your uncle! Aussies (or even the World) 1st Hybrid Corolla!! and No, I'm not going to run the 1A on hydrogen only, powered from the batteries... and use the 2 motors as generators.. and make myself perpetual motion car... I need elastic bands for that, thats where it gets expensive! :|

oh i can see it now, farmer john strapping balloons to his cows, horses and sheep, then when they are full, rig the balloons to his carby, to go to town...