mcsniff

I attached a couple of pics, ill see if I can get a pic of the finished product. First one is just the auto crossmember with manual box.

I just converted a 3 speed ke30 using a ke30 4 speed and matching tail shaft. I had to get a custom cross member made up using the existing auto cross member, as the gearbox mount was about 150mm forward. In addition I had to space it up more than 25mm with longer bolts too. I can take some photos if that will help?

My ke30 came with aftermarket guards when I bought it. They are pretty thin and don't fit that well, there is a gap of a few cm to the bonnet and they don't mount 100% - but they do fit and look like a guard, so depends what you want. Since I'm repainting the car now, I am using original guards and repairing the rust as the gap annoys me. I'm not sure where they got it but in Bris somewhere....

I just went through this with my ke30, I did mine a different way. Basically I got the auto crossmember modified by adding a piece to fill in that 30mm gap, then drilling some holes to place the gearbox mount. I did find that I had to add quite a large spacer to get the correct angle on the tailshaft, I'm not sure if its necessary though. A few hundred k's later and it all seems ok. I will see if I can get some pics if your interested

Thanks for that nice and simple - looks good. I am also looking at getting one made up. Will post what I come up with when its done.

We are in the process of converting my KE30 from auto to manual. I have searched extensively and have 99% of the parts but am stuck on the cross member. I have a '78 KE30 with the trimatic which has the different gearbox crossmember and mounting points. The manual crossmember I have doesn't match up with any holes on the car. I understand I have to make my own or weld the 2 crossmembers together. What is the best way to do this? Does anyone have any images or pointers to help me out. Thanks! Langdon

Still haven't got it going. Float level is dead on, fuel level is comparable to the working one. Used the top of my working carb (which looks the same) so its got a 'working' needle/seat, float etc. The issue is it can't go up hills, loses power and basically 'just' makes it up the hill. When up the top of the hill it takes a few seconds to get power back and then its good again. Its down on power under normal driving too but can get around. I had to use the throttle and choke linkage from my old carb, could this be causing the problem? Everything looks to open according to spec though. Its an auto if that makes a difference too.

Thanks for the tips. I have taken the top off after running it and they fuel was about half way up the bowl, might be worth comparing it with my working one. I have since read alot about float levels and found they are very important to get accurate (obviously). Maybe as you suggest I just have to be really accurate with my measurements, which vary slightly between the manual and instructions in the kit Will let you know how I get on.

Hi, I rebuilt a carb for my ke30 3k and cannot get it running properly. It is a carb from an earlier model - no solenoid and less hoses. I put a kit through it which replaced all the jets, valves, etc etc. The problem I have is that it runs far too rich - fouls the spark plugs blows smoke and is down on power, particularly noticable when going up hills (basically doesn't go up hills anymore) I have been over everything comparing to the original carb and manual, float level, jet sizes, plunger, linkages. I have noticed the idle mixture screw doesn't seem to do anything. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!