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KO 10

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Everything posted by KO 10

  1. Good good . What clubs are involved ?
  2. youll find them at any Hot Rod work shop they'll know where and what size you can get Corker tyres are one that springs to mind also Antique Tyres Vic 03 94584433
  3. any news on where around wagga the tracks ment to be ?North/south/west/east I'm about 170k's west and the closest at the moment is whinton and thats 3 1/2hrs so more power to every one involved
  4. Haha that is sweet and it looks so tuff wana shoot a rabbit or the whole warren???
  5. I've got a ke-10 stock as plus a k-10 with a 20v stuck on agze bottom running commodor gear but the stock one's going to be a group N car don't know if the build will fit the spec's of group N not sure how far the rules can get stretched there's also a k-11 I'm soon to sell its tubbed and set up for a 10A rotor but the bodys rusty it'd be a good drag car base currently looking at any specs on crank strokes, rod lengths, piston gudgen diameter that can be mixed and matched even valves out of other cars that have been made to fit would love to hear about anything unusual (eg fergie tractor sleaves machined down to fit XS650 barrels now running 770cc )anything toyota X Ps only recently found out yamaha worked VERY close with toyota developing alot of there heads please don't judge me for being slow on this lol
  6. Fair call on that there's nothing like expirence, true Sir Jack Brabbem is one of my insperations the other not many people are willing to do work out side the box but anyway how did it handle the corners did your 11 step out much? Do you think this would have any effect on the cornering at all i've got my expieriance from flat track cars and bikes (dirt) so have bugger all on circuit cars but thats what i want to do with this car ,I know it works on the dirt but how much will carry over ? they are VERY different sports
  7. Going to get the crank lightened & knife-edged first?? Then again, maybe afterwards... in case it doesn't work! That is one sexxy crank yes,yes and ah good point,glad you asked about what block bore stroke plus pistons cause i wanted to know what the strongest block is and the shortest stroke of all I'm asuming the 1k would be the shortest stroke so i'll do some serching and get all the specs i can put them on paper gather collect scrounge and borrow as many parts as possible then source the pistons rods so if the crank part wont work at least i can put them to good use and still hava kick arse k motor The firing order is UNeven so there is a greater breake in power, dirt track use this to there advantage when the wheel starts spinning they loose speed and no body wants that. The breake gives the rider or driver greater control over when he wants it to let go there is a fine line and you may not be able to notice but the clock dos'nt lie only time and experimentation will tell and high reving race spec 1300+cc is exactly what i want who would'nt ,I'm thinking late motor X pistons, short light rods, high lift cam, twin 38 makunies, ported,extractors,valve stems ground,bigger valves (if needed they might do fine),bigger v-springs (also only if they need to be) lihtened fly,balanced lightened cross plane crank,shaved head,block machined,elec dizzy,every thing that goes near or through oil rounded what do ya think ??? now can i try to build it
  8. Well my reasoning behind the k motor is ther's so many of them and almost every thing has been done to them also there is a lot of info on hotted up k's plus they are a simple engine to work on plus i've got access to a fair few so trial and error dos'nt cost much but there is no reason this could'nt be done with a 4a engine and i would love to see that but- VVTI, injection and twin cam all add new problems to the mix . the brain is streched working this out on a k as it is lol
  9. hay there big fella this k10 has some high backed seats are you going to keep your low ones ???

  10. ke70dave I'm not sure how you think the benefits will be restricted to high reving engines the idea is to get more traction through the more spaced out firing so it dos'nt matter if the engine is reving to 12000 or 6000 it'll still achive the same result Having said that the R1 is a modern style four stroke have a look at almost all modern dirt bikes ie big bore short stroke shallow pistons = less drag ,less weight ,bigger surface area everything I'm looking for aswell why can't the bore be taken out to suit this new style of piston? why can't the block be milled down (not 20mm but to suit)? I'm sure there are rods out there that can be made to fit i've seen a lot done to xs650's they were built in the 60's and i know they stay together i've even seen a pre-85 xr 250 be retro fited with a KTM piston and a short rod so the capacity was still the same to keep it in the classic classes and yes the barrel was machined down about 3/8 of an ince it's still together and winning its class up against CR250's of the same age Getting one cast sounds like the go but i am going to cut and weld one from two using an old block butchered into a jigg and the process i said earlier this might only achive something for the caster to work off in building one properly
  11. Do crank angle sensors need a ecu ??? Yep the oil holes will be ok if the welds are offcenter but if not a few grub screws should fill up any holes i drill to match em up The cam luckly dos'nt need much to be ground rite no need to cut thank god they just seem to be able to build it up and grind it back (but the positioning mmmm ???) may have foud some one to build the crank for me to so a few phone calls and i'll see what it'll cost
  12. Ah so you've read dark riders blog its a good read too ,the thing with the timming is that the dizzy on the standard crank wont work because the 270 dgre is 3\4 of a rotation of the crank and only 3\8 of a revolution in the dizzy so 270 dgre ends up being 135 dgre put in order this is the points position 0-135-225-270 this means the points have to close between the standard dizzy points the way around this well the only way round i can see is to use a V8 elec dizzy and remove the loabs to suit and only use the n-1 n-4 n-6 n-7 leads as for the cam it'll need to be built up then reground to suit still trying to get my head around that one to.
  13. 4K bugga it'd wana be gold plated ;)but surly some one else makes cranks i was even thinking of aprotching a Tafe to do some thing like this as a project or any one with the gear But thanks anyway i'll givem a call, any ideas where else would very handy
  14. I'd have to start with two standard cranks split them spigot then press them back together making one out of two then machine it between centers but even then it'll be dodgy then the counter weight problem they are bigger for a CPC so balancing issues ,I've never machined up a crank for a car but have for gear boxes and bits for farmers the balancing on a car has to be spot on no doubt but maybe some one out there could help with that one
  15. G-day i've been playing around with the idea to get a cross plane crank made for a 3k as i've also been playing around with a mates XS 650 yamaha and he has turned the crank (via a slpine) to make a 270 degree C/Angle this gives him excelent traction due to the large brake in power.The yammy R1 has a CPC and showes no differance in power but does have smoother ride and less stress on the internals and a higher usable rev range these are all posative things for a motor bike ,as for a car not sure how this will translate but in a ke10 the same results should occure being light and needing traction plus rpm, ( please don't get carried away with timing and cams cause its a bit confusing i have spent a fair bit of mind bending to get the timming with an elec dizzy from a V8 and the came grinding sorted ) The question is has any one done this ? does anyone know some one who could make one,I sould be able to cut and shut two cranks to make one but don't know any one who has welded a crank then regroud with any sucsess I have posted a photo of a cross plane crank from an R1 (this was taken from a blog called Dark Rider Blog)
  16. I'd go stock way less stuffing around but if ya wana drag i've got the body for you
  17. Owner: pat Username: KO 10 Location: penrose Vehicle Name: milky Vehicle Model: Ke10 Body Shape (# Doors): 2 Date Made: - VIN: 232267 Colour: white Engine:20v+4agze
  18. g-day anteke just wundering how you got on with your K 10 N racer as i am concidering doing a similler prject with a K20 ,I realy want to know the cost of the biuld just so I'm prepaired

  19. got the intake knocked up but thats about it looks industrial but will work a treat
  20. yep took the valve out
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