Toyrolla

I buy my parts from Mark at Manawatu Toyota in NZ (I'm in Australia.)

Remove the rubber boot. Press in the wire spring clip and push across. It should pop out. Remove globe. When refitting the new globe, be sure not to touch the glass as the oil from your fingers can damage it once it heats up.

Well your inlet cam is on VVT so an adj inlet cam gear is not much good there if you want to keep the VVT. If you don't need midrange, then just lose the VVT altogether, and get 2 new cams and 2 adj cam gears to dial in what you want. Custom plenum would help including tuned length rams. (The silvertop trumpets are smaller than the blacktop ones).

Funny. I just answered in your other (identical) thread...

Explain "using shitloads of fuel". Also explain "half power" Both these terms are qualitative, not quantitative. It should not be the air flow meter, because Blacktops are MAP sensored. You should have no AFM. O2 sensor can send your fuel out. Map sensor leaky. Are you running 98 RON fuel in it? Knock sensor can pull timing if it detects too much knock (low RON, dead sparkplugs, dead ignitor, many things.)

Checked Base timing?

You should be able to remove the guts of the barrell. Turn key to acc and depress the little button near the back of it on the underside. Otherwise, yeah, you have to remove those 2 rounded off head bolts. Hammer and centrepop is what I used. But that is much easier with the steering column on the bench :y:

You should be able to use a GenII or Gen III 3SGE or 3SGTE AFM as a replacement. Mattysshop on twincam.info did it with no change to AFM signal. The 3S one is a bit bigger = more flow but may lean you out a little bit. Easily fixed wiith aftermarket ECU or DFA or Emanage.

You may be able to get some ECU Plugs from Anthony at Kaizen Garage (Rocklea, Brisbane). He often converts these engines to aftermarket ECU so may have some plugs lying around. The ignitor modules can be hard to find and expensive.

If it is an SE then it probably has the lowest power engine imaginable. You will probably be fine with Monroe Sports Gas. If you want something a little better, get in contact with Brad at Twincam.info for some KYB Excel-G's. It is an easy job to change the struts yourself. The SE does not have inserts, it is a full replaceable strut. You can use this guide: http://www.rollamods.com/springswap.htm I actually did it without a sping compressor by removing the strut and spring and everything from the strut top. It is a 2 person job to do it that way because it becomes very hard to line up on your own. I recommend getting the Strut Mate kit for the bump stop and boot when you make the change. My bump stops were absolutely rooted when I changed them. (I changed to King Low Springs too.)

I got my 20V water pump from Southside Toyota At the Gabba for $125. They ususally ask a lot more than that but I talked them down. MR Revhead was selling them for around that including freight.

Make sure you don't have a single element bulb or blown 2 element bulb where a 2 element bulb should be. Can cause some interesting results with backfeeding.

Nice work fellas. I know rollamods ended up giving up and trying to sell off all the turbo stuff for the 1ZZ. Think it was mostly due to too much heat in the wrong places.

http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=1063 I paid about $100 for a complete rear disc upgrade. $200 for front? Prob try to beat them down a bit more!

I have 20V silvertop in my AE90 Hatch. I get 550-640 km tank. That is around 7.2l/100km on 98 RON fuel. If you have a Z car and you use your right foot, you will get worse economy. Torque = fuel use.

CR21 Townace had a 2.0 D or 2.0 TdI Check this: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/997...selEngines.html

Look for a guy on twincam.org called Mr Revhead. He's in NZ but gives great prices on genuine TRD and Toyota parts. Waterpump for 20V is a good example. He quoted me $80 NZD whereas in Aust I got quoted $167 from Toyota. Toyota eventually came down to about $130 because I told them how cheap I could get it (included $50 freight from NZ) The O-ring that goes between the pump and the block never looks like it is the right size. I stuck mine one with some gasket goo to make it go in. Seems to have worked.

http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=20043

Also try www.Twincam.org They have more AE-series related stuff on there.

Yes. Why? My car is 1989 AE90 SE. Originally had the p00 6AFC 1.4l carby. Now it is better, thank you.

Look for someone wrecking or Parting Out a twinky. They had disc rear and it really is an easy upgrade. You need the rotors, calipers (and pads), backing plate and flex handbrake cable. Check out Twincam.org and Toymods.org.au There are guys on there called The Witzl and Scorpion who are well versed in this and may be selling the parts required. Expect to pay about $280 for the parts. But you will need to add labour, pads, maybe disc machining, fluid etc. And then say goodbye to great handbrake holding when on a hill... http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1063&st=0

I got a pair of these from the Wreckers. Good condition but water stained. Went to fit them into the AE92 but the rear brackets are for horizontal bolting and the others just don't line up. And the rails are different spacing to the AE92 ones. So it looks like choppy and weldy time. Has any body else put Cynos/Paseo seats into an AE92? Crossleys want $315 to mod and fit them including Engineering Mod Plate. Trev