November 19, 200619 yr comment_151432 hey, got a bit of a problem with the stoppers. symptoms: when she is off the brakes feel good, when i start it up and its running they turn shit! the peddel have a lot more travel. a few times the brake warning light flashed on and stayed on for a while, when i braked it would go out and then back on (i thought it was a low fluid light). checks: i have gave the fronts a bleed, but i do not think this is the problem, because they felt good before i bleed them and after, it impoved slightly. i also topped up the fluid and it wasnt low before. i cannot see any obvious leaks and i have checked the vaccum line while it was running again no problems that could see. i think it maybe just the booster is fkd, i belive it has been replaced at one stage. it also has a asian imports sticker in it and "ke70" in white marker which wreckers often do. any ideas, or people who have had this problem before if you could show some light on the problem that would be good thanks Report
November 19, 200619 yr Author comment_151462 na it idels fine, when its warm it idels a bit high tho.. although when i got it it wouldnt idel very well, so my old man screwd the ideler up on it, could probaly use winding back a little. brakes worked good when i first got it, and up until resently.. edit: also if it is the booster, will it give out all together and totaly f@$k its self, leaving me with nothing? but a feeling of of fk? or am i good to keep driving it just keeping in mind the brake has more travel and wont stop quite as good? Edited November 19, 200619 yr by tas_ae71 Report
November 20, 200619 yr comment_151627 If the booster was the problem then the pedal would be harder. As you probably already know the booster just amplifies the force you apply to the pedal. It sounds like an airlock or maybe your master cylinder. Report
November 20, 200619 yr comment_151630 m/c or air in the lines.... I'm going with air in the lines if you are sure the air is out of ALL 4 lines, then its m/c. (unless you have a leak somewhere) i started a thread not so long ago that may help, will add it in a second Report
November 20, 200619 yr comment_151631 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...c=10103&hl= another thing to check is can you pump them up? like, bit of speed up goin down a hill, hit brakes, feel them drop, off and back on in a hurry, does the pedal come back to where it should be? don't know what it proves, except theres something not right lol Report
November 20, 200619 yr Author comment_151635 na they are just soft then its running, when i switch it off it good. if i pump them when stationary and its still as shit as when i am driving. if it was air in the lines i would expect it wouldnt matter if it was running or off. Report
November 20, 200619 yr comment_151659 Had this type of trouble on the 30 other day. Under heavy braking the motor would stall. So removing my motor today I found one of my vacume lines had over time gone hard and cracked and was letting air in so lose of vacume was killing the motor so look at you lines? Cameron Report
November 21, 200619 yr comment_151741 the extra force provided by the booster would make the squishy-ness more obvious... did you try and see if you can pump them up with car running? Report
November 22, 200619 yr Author comment_151909 check the rear brake shoes are adjusted correctly as i said, its only farked when the car is running mite, still wont hurt to try i surpose, but i don't think this is the problem Had this type of trouble on the 30 other day. Under heavy braking the motor would stall. So removing my motor today I found one of my vacume lines had over time gone hard and cracked and was letting air in so lose of vacume was killing the motor so look at you lines? it runs fine, i have checked all the joins, i didnt notice any cracked hoses. the extra force provided by the booster would make the squishy-ness more obvious...did you try and see if you can pump them up with car running? yes and yes, still no better. thats why it puzzels me. but i still thin its the booster, not that i actually know how the booster works instde. would series 1 t-18 work/fit? booster or master? cause i have both in working condition at a mates place... Report
November 22, 200619 yr Author comment_151966 just to clear up confusion. the brakes are good before the engine is started, when it it going and i havnt even backed out of the shed they are soft, no amount of pumping changes this. turn it off give it a 1 pump and its good and hard again. when driving it is the same as when it is stationary, soft and it takes alot of travel to before you hit any meat, even then it feels like you are stepping on a jelly fish. edit: although it is for sale, I'm not just trying to bodge it up, i stull have to keep it and drive it until my ae71 is back on the road. i don't want someone else to crash and die bacause it has fail on them and they whernt expecting it.. Edited November 22, 200619 yr by tas_ae71 Report
November 23, 200619 yr comment_152026 I'm still laying money on air. its not going to be booster. may be master cylinder Report
November 23, 200619 yr Author comment_152072 give the rears a bleed this weekend then. will a master cylinder from a series 1 t-18 work? i figured it would be slighly larger due to the bigger brakes. Report
November 23, 200619 yr comment_152073 measure it up, it will likely be the same. if not, go into autobarn and have a gawk through their book n see if they share a p/n :wink: i would check on my epc, but it doesnt seem to think ke70's exist :rolleyes: Report
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