it only taps into the rear brake circuit. it is only something you do if you are serious about motorsport. if you read Fooks earlier posts you will see that he intends also keeping a normal mechanical handbrake.

Yes, legally you have to also have to keep the mechanical handbrake

kewl.. now I know :dance:

I got the MC today and am looking at how to mount it etc... Does anyone have any ideas? The MC has about 2" of travel all up, how much is usually required to actually activate the rear brakes? Getting 2" of travel from the handbrake lever could be interesting...

 

Rob and/or Peter, could I have a look at your setup? Maybe a photo or something? :dance:

Redatto and Redwarf do not have a "normal" handbrake in addition to the hydraulic ones. Not sure why - my old white 1600 that Ev and Cara own has the old cable one under the dash as well.

 

Redwarf's hydraulic handbrake only travels about 2 inches, hence the reason why I've had today off work with an extremely sore back.... half the process of handbrake turning is the initial "REEF" of the handbrake, and if you only have 2 inches distance to travel, it's not much. I don't think it's a bad distance theoretically (ie, little reef distance, therefore makes it easier?).... but then again, I don't have the initial strength to do that whereas Rob does. So I guess I use a bit of distance to build up the "reef" part if that makes any sense?

 

I don't think that answered your question, but a few thoughts for your consideration anyway....

 

dg

Well... I'm sort of wondering how to set up the handbrake lever to allow 2 inches of travel on the MC, it would have to be one hell of a pivot point! Either that or I'd have to pull the handbrake lever almost vertical! I'm sure it will come on before the 2 inches of travel is up, just wondering roughly how far to expect...

 

I'm fairly certain both Redwarf and Peters Corolla both use the standard handbrake lever, modified with required bits to connect it to the MC, just looking for inspiration at the moment.

 

And umm, no datgirl, I don't really understand what you mean...

half the process of handbrake turning is the initial "REEF" of the handbrake, and if you only have 2 inches distance to travel, it's not much. I don't think it's a bad distance theoretically (ie, little reef distance, therefore makes it easier?).... but then again, I don't have the initial strength to do that whereas Rob does. So I guess I use a bit of distance to build up the "reef" part if that makes any sense?

 

Sorry, I am gesturing wildly in my lounge room thinking about how to explain what I mean. :dance: I'll try again

 

You know how half the point of jerking the handbrake is to upset the back end and then you powerslide out of the corner/pole? And the greater and sharper the jerking of the handbrake, the better it works? Well, when I try and do that in Rob's car, it doesn't work and I understeer towards the gutter etc. Because my 'jerk' is not strong or sharp.

 

In my old 1600, I had more travel than 2 inches, so it was easier to jerk and had less resistance. I think if there is more travel in the handbrake, the greater chance I have of actually snapping it and it actually working. Having said that, there is such thing as too much travel!

 

Is that a better explanation? or is it theoretically flawed? I frequently speak rubbish because I understand something mechanical in my head - makes sense to me - but is actually really really wrong!!

Ah yes, now I think I get you.

you need a vacuum boosted hydraulic handbrake. you wouldn't have to jerk as much then datgirl....

Heh, I think Terry's Datto1200 has a boosted hydro handbrake, or at least it looks like it does!

I know a guy in Victoria who had a vacuum boosted handbrake, it was AWESOME!! He had a Fiat disc back end in it, and the handbrake wouldn't work unboosted.

 

Mine is a pig of a thing to use, and only brute force will make it work. The axis points and fulcrum points are all wrong. The one in Datgirls old car was good, and I think the new one is pretty good, too.

 

See if you can look at Evan's car for idea's.....

 

Cheers

 

R

Rob: Since I'm basing mine on the same handbrake lever as yours - do you have any ideas as to how it could be done better? Maybe push the axis point further away from the fulcrum? Or...?

 

Looking at this one, and the one I posted earlier, they both have the axis and fulcrum points on top of each other, and neither would have very much movement on the MC end at all. I guess that gives it a fair bit more "throw", and a fair bit more mechanical advantage...

 

And this one, which is in Paul's rally ute...

http://www.rallyscene.com/cms/A_20176/article.html

 

i thought the above was interesting, they have used a hydro / mech handbrake in parallel. simplifies things, needing only one lever and satisfies legal requirements. no pics though.