bah, turns out pedders had a blonde moment and thought we where talking about the whole strut, not the strut tops. so I'm back to square one now :P.

needing a quick hand with reinstalling the pitman arm, bought a new one cos mine was pretty shagged. but I'm not quite sure how far up the thread on the steering box its meant to go? does it have to sit flush with the box? i can only get it up as far as around 8 or so mm away from the box and don't wanna start hammering at it to get it up all the way.

also, anyone kno any places that i could score some strut top mounts from? as the place i originally was going to get them from culdn't find any, and iv already pulled the struts out so i mite aswell try n find new ones.

cheers

 

also, anyone kno any places that i could score some strut top mounts from? as the place i originally was going to get them from culdn't find any, and iv already pulled the struts out so i mite aswell try n find new ones.

cheers

 

 

Search 'Peter Robinson Automotive' in the whitepages. He would have some. If he doesnt, he will get some for you.

Alternatively, there are quite a few corollas at Jolly Rodger Wreckers on Greens road Dandenong. Infact there is one Excellent condition KE30/55 with a Perfect dash, and spotless stock interior.

(I don't know if KE330/55 strut tops are interchangeable with your car (KE10/15 from memory), but its worth investigating as there are heaps of them at wreckers)

 

Centre Road wreckers generally have a quite a few old Corolla's.

REALLY hard to get new strut tops for a twenty, and all the second hand one's are usually shagged. Mine need changing fairly soon and was looking to go to something else, due to the difficulty of getting decent condition right ones.

Alternatively, there are quite a few corollas at Jolly Rodger Wreckers on Greens road Dandenong. Infact there is one Excellent condition KE30/55 with a Perfect dash, and spotless stock interior.

(I don't know if KE330/55 strut tops are interchangeable with your car (KE10/15 from memory), but its worth investigating as there are heaps of them at wreckers)

 

Ke30 strut tops do not bolt into a 20 :y: They will fit but a shit load of cutting of:

a) the strut tops - they are too big to fit in the towers

b) the hole in the top of the tower needs to be enlarged to fit the strut top

also the bolt pattern is a pooftenth different as well

 

I've did all of this in the past so it is possible.

I got brand new strut tops for my ke20 from toyota ex-japan for about $180.

 

Also Sim the pitman arm doesn't go all the way up the spline of the box. I work at pedders suspension down in tassie and all you do is put on the pitman arm and rattle up the nut with an air gun or do it up really tight by hand.

put the car back together just before. had to bleed up the front brakes as i removed the brake line from the caliper to get the struts out. my question is when i put the brake lines back onto the caliper, is the nut on the brake line meant to sit flush with the caliper? as i wound it down by hand until it got tight and nipped it up with my spanner. just not sure if there is air leaking out or not. as the pedal feels pretty crummy. whats the best way to bleed these?

Get a mate to pump the pedal until it firms up, get him to hold it while you crack the bleed nipple.

Air and fluid rush out as mate pushes pedal to floor. Nip up bleed and get mate to take foot off pedal.

 

DO NOT TAKE PRESSURE OFF PEDAL UNTIL BLEED NIPPLE IS DONE UP!!!!!!

 

Repeat until no air comes out. Change sides and repeat.

 

Also keep an eye on the level of fluid in master cylinder as you may/will need to top up as you go.

hmm, i tried that until a nice stream of brake fluid started coming out, couldn't see any air. took it for a drive and it barely braked at all :o. even though i only removed the front brakes. would i need to bleed up the rears aswell? would air be in the rears? thats the only thing i can think of, since i only bled the front brakes.

Edited August 4, 200719 yr by Sim

Always safer to do the whole lot. :o

 

My personal preference is to start furthest away from the master cylinder (rear left) and then get closer. (rear right, front left, front right.)

hmm, I'm not too sure what ive done wrong. i bled the brakes from all 4 points and the brakes are still pretty bad. can u bled the master cylinder itself? not sure y the brakes are still crummy.

Check all the brake line connections for leaks maybe? Its possibly leaking from where you disconnected the brake line from the calliper.

 

When you were bleeding the brakes. Did you allow the pedal to be pushed flat to the floor? I hear it basically kills the master cylinder/brake booster if you allow the pedal to fall to the floor.

hmmm well dad was helpin me do it, and he was pushing the pedal down to the floor. so i hope it hasn't f@$ked the master cylinder :o. is there any way to check? I'm not used to these old girls, lol.

have you looked here for your strut tops??

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CORO...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited August 5, 200719 yr by TRD ke70

thanks for the assistance guys. finally got the car registered and on the road yesterday, passed the vicroads inspection no worries at all. after 3 months and i can drive it now lol.