Davros El Davros Posted September 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 Thanks for the props guys, I'll try to keep more pics coming :lolcry: People keep booking me in for work, so I am not having as much time on the car as I would like... Mick - I can't wait until this thing is finished as well! I'm mad keen to get it down for a big Rad Rollaz cruise when it's all done. I am having some dangerous thoughts about re-spraying it at the moment, so that might delay the finish date a little. I'll just wait and see what happens there. Depends on how I like the look when everything is together. Philbey - Man, the welds are still a bit lumpy in places. From what I have been learning with the TIG, make sure everything is prepped properly and nice and clean - use metho or thinners on all of your metals before you weld them. Also use a foot pedal on your TIG which allows you a lot more control. I found there is a whole stack of awesome reading material on the Miller website - shoot me a PM if you want me to dig up some links and send them to you. My welding sure ain't perfect (as I want it!) but it's getting better and plus I can say I have built mostly everything that you see on this thread, even if it's not super pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuzzo Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 Whos doing all your welding? They do a great job. The kaaz LSD is a good choice. Its not silent however it does its job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davros El Davros Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Hey Cuzzo, I am doing all of the welding... Been teaching myself how to TIG welds over the last couple of months. Just starting to get in the right groove and everything is looking much neater now. It's also helpful being able to polish everything up, it helps me hide mistakes :lolcry: After your recommendation I'll probably go the KAAZ LSD. The 28 spline R31 diff is getting cut down at the moment. I am hoping to pick it up this week and get it in as soon as the springs are re-leaved. You don't have an LSD you want to sell do you?? I was going to bid on the custom intake you had for sale on Ebay (if that was you..) but I figured I should get the car running as it is, then start pushing it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 :lolcry: Davros, I'll give that footpedal a try. The CIG's I've been using have a dial on the torch to tweak the current as you go but I find they're a real pain in the arse to use on the fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davros El Davros Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Yeah mate, the foot pedal is the goods. It allows you to strike the arc at high amps, get your weld pool going nice and quickly, then ease off as you progress to keep the weld bead even. Then you can ease off the amps at the end so your edge doesn't blow out. (I speak this like I am a pro, but I am still burning holes in stuff sometimes..!) I was having big issues at first, welding with 2.4 mm tungstens and getting really sloppy welds. I moved down to 1.6mm tungstens and lower amps and found everything to be a lot cleaner on thinner alloy.. I think I was pumping too much current in there at first. For your foot pedal, depending on what welder you have, take a look at the pedal that goes with the UniMig ACDC 200, as that unit is exactly the same as the base model CIG unit. CIG just charge about 600 bucks more.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolliac Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Good info on the welding Davros. How much to get the diff cut if you don’t mind me asking and who through? I spoke to a joint that said they only use billet axles coz it’s hard to re harden the cut ones. At $3000 I said “not on my budget”. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuzzo Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Well the thing with that manifold is i hadnt tried it on the motor but the dude that bought it told me it doesnt fit?! I hope he could modify it to fit. can't wait to see this thing flying around. I am due for a trip up north so i wouldnt mind checking her out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davros El Davros Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Rolliac - Ha, this sounds familiar. I did a lot of calling around and talking to different people before I took my diff anywhere. I was quoted between 1900 and 2500 from a few different places. I ended up going to Geoff England Engineering down at Mt Cotton, upon a personal recommendation from Steve who runs Tyres and More at Geebung. Steve has an RB30 in a Datsun 120Y and has all of his diff work done by Geoff England. Geoff is an absolute legend. Very straight forward, knows his stuff inside out and easy to deal with. I had been given the line about the billet axles as well, but Geoff said this is a load of crap. There are hardening issues with Skyline axles if you go down too far apparently, but I don't know 100% how this works. Shortening an R31 Borg Warner diff for a KE10 is fine with the stock axles. I think my diff shortening will come in at around $1600 - this is with new wheel bearings and U Bolts plus all plates for mounting to the spring pack etc. I haven't picked it up yet, but I'll let you know the final price when it's done. If you are keen I can get you his number. Would be a good time to talk to him, because he has been going through all of the measurements for my diff - pinion angle, handbrake cable setup etc. Cuzzo - thats a bummer about the intake manifold. The guy that bought it should be able to make it fit. If it doesn't work out and you have to refund his money, let me know and I may be interested in getting it, depending on how it fits, or how easy it is to modify.. Let me know if you come up this way, would be good to catch up for a beer. I hope to have the car mobile by christmas, but we all know about deadlines for modifying cars.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuzzo Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 With the axels. I twisted a r31 28spline re-splined axel. Now she has one billet axel and one standard axel. No twisting yet. Well the body is twisted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 The Tig's I'm using at TAFE are all flash CIG's and they've got the upslope/downslope control as well, so as far as burning holes at the end etc, ive found that to be pretty handy. I want to buy myself a tig, but I wont be able to get an ACDC on my budget...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepy Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Hey mate, just had a read through your thread and love what you've done. One thing though - I'm also looking at getting the hopper stoppers brake upgrade kit for the KE10, so if you could throw some pics up of the fitment and any other info that would be great :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
untubbed_20 Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) With the axels. I twisted a r31 28spline re-splined axel. Now she has one billet axel and one standard axel. No twisting yet. Well the body is twisted... Thats normal with any cut down borg warner 28 spline axle, be it vl turbo or 31 or vn v8. The borg warner axles are only hardened where the standard spline is, cut it down and your into soft territory. In a ke10 it won't be a problem, but any turbo car has problems. You can easily break a set in a manual 13 sec full body car in a night no probs with a bit of wheelspin , had freinds break lots and lots of them in vls(people put cut down vn 28 splines in them to substitute standard vlt/v8 axles) Whereas people go 9's in auto cars with standard non cut down 28's.(actually i have never broken as set in 3yrs of driving with 600-700hp all the time). cheers darren Edited October 25, 2009 by untubbed_20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolliac Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 So do you know if the cut down axles are re-hardened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuzzo Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) double f@$kn post Edited October 26, 2009 by cuzzo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuzzo Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Mine was rehardened aswell but nowhere near as strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.