chrisandliz[RL] Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 hiya I was looking at upgrading my 4age cooling system, with the hopes of going turbo. Can you guys tell me your preferences, I can get alloy Down Flow from a magna cheapish. Thanks Chris Quote
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 hiya I was looking at upgrading my 4age cooling system, with the hopes of going turbo. Can you guys tell me your preferences, I can get alloy Down Flow from a magna cheapish. Thanks Chris Copper is a better conductor than alloy and heat rises. Quote
Guest Sbox Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) Deleted Edited May 24, 2008 by Sbox Quote
chrisandliz[RL] Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Posted October 17, 2007 Sorry too be rude, but FAQs stands for "Frequently Asked Questions" Not "Frequently Asked Preference". I'm aware how a radiator works, thanks for the info any way. Can you tell me why newer cars and large V8 are more often than not using cross flow radiators? Quote
Croc Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 At a guess i'd say they use alloy now only for the cost factor. Copper is getting very expensive. As for a preference alloy would be the way to go for me. I have a few friends who are handy with a welder. Quote
Guest Sbox Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) Deleted Edited May 24, 2008 by Sbox Quote
irokin Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 Coolant volume should count more than cross flow/down flow. For example a 40mm alloy 3 core barely cools any better than the standard nissan 15mm single core (which is also alloy) because of the terrible coolant capacity. Quote
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 when you mix (dissimilar metals) an alloy radiator a copper heater core & brass Welsh plugs, old coolant all in the same cooling system Electrolytic Corrosion (Electrolysis) occurs . When two different metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture, there will be a flow of current from one metal (the "anode") to the other metal (the "cathode"), and one will be eaten away, or disintegrated Make sure you use a good quality coolant !! Quote
Guest Sbox Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) Deleted Edited May 24, 2008 by Sbox Quote
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 That was how the very old radiators work, quite alot of them are just big drums of water with an outlet in the bottom and the water free flowing into the top like a fish tank. Anyone want a sexy 44 gallon drum of water strapped to their Rolla or Skyline. That system is called Thermosyphon. Quote
Des Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 VN/VP commodore radiators are alloy with plastic tanks, They work very well and are cheap. Quote
Guest Sbox Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) Deleted Edited May 24, 2008 by Sbox Quote
Trev Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 VN/VP commodore radiators are alloy with plastic tanks, They work very well and are cheap. Its also better to get a Late VN or the VP radiator if you have a smaller engine bay as the early VN requires the external tank. Quote
Guest Sbox Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) Deleted Edited May 24, 2008 by Sbox Quote
Des Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) Just remember to put the filler higher than the rest of the engine, a few people have used these radiators and then come unstuck when trying to fill them and get out air locks. My A/C AE71 worked all right with the standard radiator, never got hot and we are in the build up/ wet season up north at the moment. I have already recored the radiator for my turbo 4AGE, expensive at $460. I believe the extra core should be well worth it (from 2 to 3). The radiators are slightly lower than the engine but the 3.8's have a bleed valve at the highest point. Edited October 17, 2007 by AE70 Quote
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