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Posted

Or go to nuts and bolts and see if you can get a rod with a nut in the middle with reverse thread on one side, and a tap.

Cut the panhard in the middle and tap out the centre to suit the above mentioned adjuster bolt. I am assuming the panhards are hollow here btw.

You then have an a home made adjustable panhard, which for you seems to be the sort of thing you're into. :jamie:

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Posted
Or go to nuts and bolts and see if you can get a rod with a nut in the middle with reverse thread on one side, and a tap.

Cut the panhard in the middle and tap out the centre to suit the above mentioned adjuster bolt. I am assuming the panhards are hollow here btw.

You then have an a home made adjustable panhard, which for you seems to be the sort of thing you're into. :no2:

That is exactly the sort of thing I am into.

so the rod should look like: \\\\\\\\\\\\\nut///////////// and I tap normal right hand threads into each side of the cut panhard rod?

Posted

Yeah thats it nice pic too!! hehe

 

Oh actually you'd need a reverse thread tap too, might not be cheap. :dance:

 

Maybe b4 you get too far, drill a small hole in the panhard just to make sure its hollow, otherwise you might end up with a fair bit more work! :no2:

Posted

something is wrong then, ive a got a T18 in the shed, and it pushes the diff to the passenger side.

 

the rod should bolt to the to right of the chassis if your looking at the T18 from the back, then the other end attaches to the bottom left of diff. makes sense for it to move to the left..

 

i don't get how yours go to the right... WTF!!

Posted (edited)
something is wrong then, ive a got a T18 in the shed, and it pushes the diff to the passenger side.

 

the rod should bolt to the to right of the chassis if your looking at the T18 from the back, then the other end attaches to the bottom left of diff. makes sense for it to move to the left..

 

i don't get how yours go to the right... WTF!!

Yeah, its got me stuffed too, the only thing I can think of is that the rod sits horizontal standard (i.e. at its maximum deflection) and lowering has effectively shortened it. Interestingly, it seems to do the same thing on the other car. I'll take some pics tomorrow. Car seems to handle O.K. will have to jack her up and have another look.

Edited by machg
Posted

lol at you dan you love em now cause mines in your shed lol

 

but go the adjustable panhard rad they are good but I'm using a whitline one not a home made one

Posted

"jesus" disappointed me 4 the 1st time today - flat battery, really wierd as car was O.K. when parked 2 days ago, and no lights were left on, hmmmmmmmmmm... "jesus" is going to give his life when rego runs out, some of the fabrication on 'lazarust' is just too complex to be attempted from flat sheet, makes more sense to cut up "jesus" and weld those bits in.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
ahahahahahah

 

well i reccon t18's are the shittest looking rolla out ...

 

Good paint and some sweet rims and like all other Rollas, they look quite good.

 

:)

 

E7rost61.jpg

Posted

Massive day, stripped all the rust converter off (the guy at Spectrum said that it would react with the paint if I left it on, maybe that's what the last owner did?) the rolled the thinned Brightside on to the bare metal. As you can see, its not very even coverage wise, but the paint definitely does flatten out. It will be interesting to see how it goes with further coats.

 

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Posted (edited)

Did some more reading about the rollering (LOL, pun!) technique, I think I tried to go for too much coverage in one hit, so when weather permits I'm going to sand it right back and start again. The 'silver lining' is that even though it looks shit ATM, the new paint is rock hard, and is stopping moisture getting to the metal which is more than can be said of the previous paint job. I am impressed enough by the hardness of this stuff that I am definitely going to use it on lazarust (black, on the newly stripped floor)

Edited by machg

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