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5k - Solid Lifters


ROLLN'03

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yep, as it states in the FAQ, the lifters pump up and the valves don't seat properly at high revs. basically you will have a power loss at high RPM. maybe even burnt valves if you push it to much.

 

need to reword the FAQ to aftermarket solid lifters for holden red motors. all red motors have hydraulics as standard.

 

really you need to think about what you want from your engine. if you want an 8grand screamer, solids are the go. myself i reused the cam from my previous 4k which is a solid lifter grind, hence the need to change lifter types.

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The lifters in my 5k "were" chev lifters too. I also had datsun a12 push rods.

The engine was rebuilt last week and converted back to hyd lifters.

Reason: Its chewed up 2 cams and 3 sets of lifters in 8 months (even when i got the engine builder to run it in the second time). The engine is still sitting in my shed.

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there is a solid lifter for a 5K and they are the same as 3f landcrusier.

 

here's the toyota part number.

 

also you use 4k push rods and rocker gear, that depends on what 5k engine you have, flat top pistons or dished pistons, because there is a difference in length of the pushrods.

 

love to know why your 5k chewed up cams and lifters???

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Ok here goes. The engine was built in December 2004 and installed. From the first time i turned the key, it had a noisy lifter (i mean bad) and it just got worse within a matter of 5-10mins. During this time, i was running in the cam, but the noise got real bad. I set the tappet clearances approx ten times over......because the noise would return within a matter of seconds after i set the clearances. (whilst doing this i never got to drive the car to run it in). A weber running really rich and the engine getting slightly warm/hot caused a severe case of glazed bores/rings. Nick- This cam was the standard 5k cam, reground.

 

So the engine builder stripped the engine down and found that one of the cam lobes (cyl 3 exhaust- from memory) was not centred below the lifter bore ( i know they are are slightly offset). Infact, it was 5-10mm offset. Causing this to happen to the lifter (pictured).

The standard reground cam was replaced with a brand new Crow cam, new Crow Lifters (chev).

 

The engine builder re-assembled the motor and performed the cam run-in in his workshop. It too had noisy lifters, and it started to kill that set of new lifters.

So out it came again. The Crow cam was saved from major damage and he had that cam re-ground to a different profile. More new Crow lifters were fitted, along with new datsun pushrods and new threaded tappet clearance adjusters.

All was fine then.

 

It was always using oil (about 1-1.5lts a week in the end). Glazed bores still.......

So i ditched the DGV weber and installed twin SU's. Once i had them all tuned up, i ripped out the motor and had it rebuilt as of last week. Upon inspection of the lifters, a few of them had started to wear and had scuff marks etc in them.

The engine builder decided to switch back to the hyd setup.

The engine is still sitting on my shed floor. I'm waiting for it to jump into my engine bay.

I'm not a big fan of revving my motors beyond 6500rpm, so i'm not overly fussed about having the hyd setup. However, i am dissapointed that i don't have the solid setup that i paid for, and the peace of mind of knowing that can i can rev the ring out of it from time to time.

 

btw - my 5K has dished pistons

post-13-1124796005.jpg

Edited by kangaroosa
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thanks Warrick for the epc snapshot.

 

not a great fan of chevy lifters,genuine or aftermarket, i reckon they don't have the same case hardening that toyota parts have, nothing like genuine parts.

 

my old starlet had the solids(genuine) in it for 3 years before i pulled it down for a rebuild and the cam and lifters were perfect, the rally car has had them in there for 4 years and never any problems, don't even adjust the tappets very offen.

 

only other thing what would cause lifter wear like that would be valve spring pressures are to hi.

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I had my doubts about the chev lifters too. They just seem to be a very soft metal - compared to the standard toyota stuff.

 

I have dual valve springs (not sure what make / model). As you stated, that could have been causing some drama's too.

 

I'll wait and see how the hyd setup goes. I don't feel like throwing anymore money into the motor, so i hope it all works.

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that sounds like the problem, we have only single springs in the rally car with a 1.5mm spacer.

they were duals but i reckoned the seat pressure would be too hi, so i took the inner out and just ran the single outers.

 

the seat pressures i run are about 90psi, standard is 70-75 psi i think.

(never had a problem with valve bounce, and if you do run too higher pressures you can loose HP.)

but the open pressures can get as hi as 300psi.

 

i'd be trying to find out what springs you have and what they should be running.

our springs were made by preformance springs, i think they're called CB4's.

 

they recommended installing them (both inner and outer) with a 3mm spacer.

 

glad i didn't.

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i didnt have the problem you mentioned, and we both have nearly exactly the same engine, 5K, 3K bigport head, Dished pistons and except for the cam profile, porting and dual valve springs its basically the same.

 

i'd be pointing to the dual valve springs as well.....i've never hit any valve bounce from my engine (single valve springs) and its been in the car for over a year now with little problems. only problem i had is now fixed and that was the stem seals.

 

my engine also frequently hits at least 7500rpm.....i've had it to 8200 with no problems.

Edited by Xany
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hmm, i don't remember whose it was. a quick burst to 7500 isn't the problem, it's holding it there, letting the lifters pump up

 

i used to take my 4k to 8500 all the time :thumbsup: i'd just say to people "watch the tacho" and launch in 1st, wind off the dial, then do the same in second, by then we'd be doing just under 100km/h

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