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Diagnosis Of Problems


Sportivo_65

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one thing i didnt say was that the intermittent idling problem caused by leaking caps if left long enough becomes an intermittent stalling problem :lolcry:

 

the way you stated it was like it was only your model that has had trouble with leaking caps,

 

all i did was point out that there was more that 1 model in the toyota range that have had a this problem, and guess what they have all from come from toyota in japan.

 

yes the sportivo was designed and built solely for australia, but was manufacturer in japan, then modified off the line, sent over here the "locally" produced parts add to complete the build

 

Sportivo info on carsales

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Expecting factory warranty from a vehicle thats about 8 years old, and has surpassed the 100,000 km bench mark really is pushing the factory love. You may remember that Toyota changed the crankshaft size back in the early 80's from.. 40? to 42? mm ? on the 4AGE motor. i cannot remember the specific numbers - but they must of done this for a reason, Maybe they thought it did not have sufficient size / strength. Anyway, this friend of mine has had this MR2 from the early early days, with good service history. At 1..60? thousand kms, he was driving home one day, the thing stalled, and wouldn't restart. This particular drive car was never really thrashed, log book'ed.. etc. Motor pulled down - Turns out the crank, had snapped in half. The Crank fracture marks on the crank indicated that this had been happening for many 10's of thousands of kms. Possibly this was the reason back in the early 80's that they increased the size of the crank.

 

Sometimes they get it right, sometimes they don't. Chances is its just an age thing - when building & testing them, this must not of been an apparent issue that caused any need to suspect a future superseded part(s). The ECU, that is.

 

At least you found the issue.(s).

 

Brand new one at $13,*** something. Ouch. lol.

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Just thought I'd give you folks an update. The car has been fixed.

 

Components in the computer itself were replaced and things seem to be going so far so good.

 

There were spikes of volts getting through which certain parts couldn't handle therefore shutting the car down as a precaution.

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I should add though, the hesitation at high rpm is still there... But after having the car off the road for just over a month, I'm willing to over look that and not really worry about it just yet. As again, that would be a whole heap of different things...

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  • 4 weeks later...
So, some of you may have noticed me rudely hijacking SoulSearchers thread, so I thought I should start my own... :wink:

 

I have some issues with my Sportivo which I'm looking for theorys on if anyone has any.

 

Problem #1:

Its choking horribly at high rpm and loses power. Thats the main problem that I want fixed as I wanted to get her on the track soon but can't until this is fixed. I had a Bosch BOV on it and the car would hold til about 5 and then start chocking and jerking. A friend of mine who Rally's a Evo 6 suggested it could be the crap spring in the BOV so we took it off and returned the cap over that outlet in the pipeing. The problem is still there but now its changed. If I'm driving along the highway for example and want to get around a slow vehicle etc, I drop it back to 3rd and stomp on it, the car just starts choking as soon as I let my foot off the clutch. I have to back right off and go to 4th before it settles down.

 

Suggestions:

Driver asking too much of the car (suggested by my brother the mechanic who obviously doesn't wanna fix it)

Fuel feed problem (install a Bosch external fuel pump)

Injectors / Plugs (check plugs and make sure they aren't white or black. Also check there aren't 'detination' marks on the plugs)

Car running too much boost and when under higher rpm's its leaning out and choking (install boost gauge and check what boost its running and make sure its not over boosting - as this will cause heaps of issues)

Map Sensor / Air flow meter

 

 

Problem #2:

Now also its started stalling randomly and then wont start again. Like when I left from work the other day. I started it and let it warm up for about 5 mins before I left the carpark, then up the road (at the busiest intersection it could be at) it decided to stall at a red light. Then when it wouldn't start, until after about 2mins, when I turned the key it turned over.

 

Update: Today I was driving up the road to get some lunch, started the car in the carpark, let it run for a bit, drove off. Was driving along a road in 4th doing 60kms and the revs just dropped down to '0' and the engine and oil lights came on. I instantly knocked it out of gear and chucked the hazards on and pulled over to the side of the road (which was a mission with 17" x 7" mags and no power steering) and called my brother (who's my machanic). I started it again after about 3mins and it started fine and got me home and hasn't missed a beat.

 

Suggestions:

The spark plugs (13BT_KE20 )

Ignition Module

Crank angle sensor

 

Items I know which need attending:

Intank fuel filter to be changed

Throtle body butterfly to be cleaned

 

The car ha had oil changed every 5,000 and the filter every 10,000 so its been regulary serviced.

 

So yeah, does anyone strongly agree or disagree with whats been suggested above? Like where the hell do I start... Its one huge big puzzle! And could the two problems be related??

 

Thanks stacks - in advance!! ;)

 

 

the revs just dropping out happened to me in my ae102 first day with my P's.

I was not happy but it was quite funny as i had 5 people in the car.

 

started it back up and it made a sound as if the starter motor kept cranking over.

 

took it to an auto electrician and found a bad earth.

ever since then the car has been fine has not caused me and troubles.

 

does it do anything funny when you turn the heater on?

 

Anthony

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  • 2 months later...

Howdy Folks,

 

Just an update for those playing at home, after finally getting ROL14 back on the road and having the front bar repaired, we've managed to fix the 'hesitating problem'.

 

It turns out it was spark plugs. When I bought the car it had Iridium plugs (not sure if I spelt that right) fitted. I've since found out from some other turbo car owners and for myself that these plugs are not suited to turbo engines. Its to do with the strenght of the spark at high rpm which isn't strong enough for boosted engines.

 

So we rang Toyota, gave them the VIN number and ordered a 'stock' set (prob Denso's or something) of plugs, which have now been fitted and the car is running like her dreamy usual self again!!!! :y::D:D

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hmmm that's interesting...

 

I run iridiums - BKR6EIX 2272, and it ran BETTER with them than the denso's (which aren't the actual ones made for our cars....) the ones that were installed from factory aren't made any more, and the part number that is in the book have never been stocked in Australia...further to that, I contacted NGK and gave them the original part number (the one that's never been sold by toyota apparently) and they cross referenced it over to the iridium...

 

The denso ones that Toyota have fitted to my car in the past never seem to last very long....

 

but glad that she's running well (finally) :y:

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Well they seemed to not work in my car, and I hated it, so now I'd rather pay for new standard 'what ever brand or make they are' plugs every 40,000 odd ks (the whole $12 that they cost) than have the car faulting like it was at high rpm (when I don't want it to be faulting)... Maybe the set of Iridiums that were it in were dodgy, maybe my motor just likes being a pain. But its working with what Toyota have supplied me and so I'm a very happy camper, and will stick to that.

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It turns out it was spark plugs. When I bought the car it had Iridium plugs (not sure if I spelt that right) fitted. I've since found out from some other turbo car owners and for myself that these plugs are not suited to turbo engines. Its to do with the strenght of the spark at high rpm which isn't strong enough for boosted engines.

 

Quite the contrary. Iridium plugs are fantastic for turbos but they're perhaps not suited to your engines particular ignition system. Some engines run great on coppers, some run great on iridium, just need to find what works on your engine.

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  • 3 months later...
Mines doing it now...it's been to Toyota and now it's at the auto electricians.... it's doing exactly the same as yours was julez.

 

Driving along then for no reason cuts out...wait for a couple of minutes, and it starts again... seems to do it more when it's hot,

 

Lesley :)

 

And I bet its not throwing codes and there's no warning signs its about to do it, is there???

 

That problem with mine was a problem on the actual chip board in the computer, had to be repaired by an auto-electronics place who replaced the solinoid.condensor thing on the board, and *touch wood* its been running like a dream ever since.

 

It was a problem with over-wattage getting through to a condensor that wasn't ment to have that volume or watts, and it was frying the part, and shutting the computer down, but since that parts been repaired its been fine!!!

 

I'm not happy to hear that its doing it, but I'm interested that yours is doing it too! Please let me know how you go huni!! And I'd be asking someone to open the computer and inspect the board, save yourself some time and money having in workshops and them doing tests on it that aren't gonna tell you shit, as I'd be very surprised if thats not the problem.

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