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20v Head On 4a-gze


1G-GTE KE70

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oh dear....

 

well hes wrong on a few points.....

 

 

If you are wanting to turbo I would suggest a 4agze 16 valve head as the 20

valve wont offer any real advantages, plus its easier to put really big

injectors and a large plenum on a 16 valve head.

 

 

20v has more valve area.....

 

theres no real difference in the injector swap or making a plenum.....

 

Tuning a turbo with

multiple throttle bodies isnt straightforward. The 20 valve needs HD valve

springs if you run high boost due to valve float and the head doesnt handle

the higher thermal loads as well as a 16 valve.

 

no problem tuning multi throttle turbos... HEAPS do it....

hd springs is totoal rubbish, there are hundreds if not thousands of 20v turbos in nz... many on stock OLD springs. iv NEVER heard of valve float being a problem.

 

nor have i heard of any thermal problems on stock NON turbo cooling systems...

 

and finally the valve cuts..... with that statement he proves hie 4age n00bnes... the 4agze pistons are MILES lower than 20v ones, the blacktop barely has any cut outs on pop top pistons, the 4agze has DISHED ones.... at the very worst it becomes an interferance engine, so don't snap a cam belt :D

 

where is this guy? sounds like hes in the states.....

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The main reason people don't bother with 7A-GE 20v's is because due to the much longer stroke of the 7A motor, it doesn't like revving nearly as much as the 4A does. The 20v needs high revs if you want to keep the quad-throttles. Otherwise, you could use the 20v head, but revert to a single or dual-throttles which can have better low rpm torque and power.

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I think we have established that a chop shop 4a-g whatever e is a waste of money when you can get a stock turbo engine that will most likely kick its arse with a boost increase if you can bring yourself to the shame os using a datsun donk

or spend double the money and end up with a toyota engine (3s-gte) that has alot more potential, makes more power out the box and is alot stronger to boot. but you get what you pay for

 

and i know people who prefer CAs over SRs so let's just leave that alone :P

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yeah easy to convert, just swing it around!

 

don't bother with finding ae86 waterpumps etc, don't need them.

 

and seeing as your gunna turbo it youll need a custom intake anyway, so no worries there....

 

as for parts, no problem at all. what do you want?

 

and as jamie said, even a 7afe would be good, torque...... its what you need

:P

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toymods mentality: if it's got an F, it's shit

7afe would CHOP a 4age in a straight line. no doubt :D

Interesting theory... But I'll try and have a go at disproving it. In my copy of Which Car magazine (September/October 1998 issue), at the back there is a list of specifications for vehicles on the Australian market. Included in this listing are the 1.6L and 1.8L Corollas (not sure if AE102 or AE112, doesn't matter anyway). The Corolla CSi with the 78kW, 135Nm 4A-FE motor and 5-speed manual tranny, weighing in at 1025kg did 0-100 in 10.8 seconds. The Corolla Seca RV with the 85kW, 155Nm 7A-FE motor and 5-speed manual tranny, weighing in at 1090kg did 0-100 in 10.7 seconds. So it has been established that a slightly heavier car with the 7A-FE will beat a car with the same gear ratios and a 4A-FE. HOWEVER, the 4A-GE motor makes 88 or 100kW depending on variant, with about the same torque as the 7A-FE, so all other factors being equal, the 4A-GE should beat the 7A-FE. A 4A-GE vs. a 7A-GE however, the result should go to the 7A-GE for the extra torque and extra horsepower.

 

Sorry Jamie, I agree with you the rest of the time but I have to disagree on this. However, I do agree that the extra capacity of the 7A motor, combined with the extra power ability of the GE head should do well.

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